Marcelle Dormoy Perfumes

Marcelle Dormoy was a distinguished French couturier and dressmaker, who made her mark in the fashion world during the 1930s and 1940s. Her designs were celebrated for their elegance and sophistication, reflecting the refined tastes of the era. Operating out of her boutique at 22 rue de la Trémoille in Paris, Dormoy crafted garments that epitomized Parisian chic, attracting a clientele that appreciated her meticulous attention to detail and her innovative approach to fashion.

Dormoy's work was characterized by a blend of classicism and modernity, appealing to women who sought both tradition and innovation in their wardrobes. Her creations often featured luxurious fabrics, exquisite tailoring, and subtle yet impactful embellishments, making them highly sought after by those with discerning tastes. As a couturier, Dormoy contributed to the rich tapestry of French fashion, leaving a lasting legacy that continues to inspire admiration for the elegance and creativity she brought to her craft.

Marcelle Dormoy's career in fashion was marked by collaborations with some of the most influential names in the industry. She worked alongside Madeleine Vionnet, a pioneering figure in haute couture, contributing to the same ateliers as other notable designers such as Jacques Griffe and Marcelle Chaumont. This experience not only honed Dormoy's skills but also embedded her work within the rich tradition of French couture.

While there is some debate over the exact timeline of Dormoy's career, her influence was felt well before the 1940s. Morris De Camp Crawford, writing in 1941, suggested that Dormoy launched her own fashion house in 1934. However, evidence points to an earlier start. The New York Times, in a January 1933 issue, featured a Dormoy suit made from diagonally striped woolen fabric, indicating that her work was already gaining recognition by then. Additionally, in his book Flying Mannequin, the mannequin "Freddy" (Jean Carlier) referenced Dormoy's launch date as 1927. Further supporting this, a 1932 article in Fashions of the Hour described a Marcelle Dormoy light wool coat dress, further cementing her presence in the fashion world prior to the mid-1930s.

Dormoy's career was also marked by resilience in the face of adversity. During World War II, as France fell under German occupation, she remained with Jean Patou in Biarritz, a coastal city far from the turmoil in Paris. However, her commitment to her craft and her homeland drew her back to Paris after the occupation ended. This return symbolized not just a physical homecoming but also a reassertion of her place in the Parisian fashion scene, where she continued to create designs that resonated with the elegance and sophistication of French couture.

The perfumes of Marcelle Dormoy:

• 1921 Violet
• 1921 Kiss Me
• 1922 Garden Blossoms
• 1922 Naturelle Flowers
• 1922 Triumphe
• 1922 Two Lips
• 1927 Vers le Joie
• 1940 Lilac
• 1940 Coloris
• 1940 Frasques
• 1946 Gomorrhe
• 1946 Sodome
• 1946 Perfidie

The fragrances released by Marcelle Dormoy, spanning from the 1920s to the 1940s, reflect a distinct evolution in both perfumery and the cultural sentiments of their times. Each perfume carries not just a name but an aura that captures the essence of the era in which it was introduced.

Violet: Launched in 1921, Violet likely captured the delicate and powdery essence of the violet flower. Violets have a soft, sweet scent, often described as both floral and slightly woody. This fragrance might have evoked the charm and sophistication of early 20th-century Paris, where understated elegance was highly prized.

Kiss Me: The playful and flirtatious name "Kiss Me" suggests a fragrance designed to be alluring and romantic. Launched in 1921, it was likely a sweet and powdery scent with hints of floral notes, this perfume would have aimed to capture the essence of a romantic gesture, a scent meant to linger close to the skin.

Garden Blossoms: "Garden Blossoms," introduced in 1922, suggests a lush and vibrant bouquet. This fragrance probably blended various floral notes to evoke the freshness and abundance of a blooming garden, offering a celebration of nature’s beauty and a sense of rejuvenation.

Naturelle Flowers: Also launched in 1922, "Naturelle Flowers" likely emphasized a more naturalistic and less ornate floral scent. The name suggests simplicity and purity, potentially combining light, fresh florals with green notes to evoke the outdoors, capturing the raw, unadulterated scent of nature.

Triumphe: "Triumphe," translating to "Triumph," exudes a sense of victory and achievement. This fragrance made its debut in 1922 and might have had bold, commanding notes, perhaps with rich florals or even chypre elements to embody strength and confidence. It could be seen as a celebration of personal or national success, reflecting the optimism of the post-war era.

Two Lips: Also launched in 1922, a clever play on words, "Two Lips" likely combined the sensuousness of a kiss with the floral beauty of tulips. This perfume might have been both tender and lively, perhaps mixing the green, crisp scent of tulips with subtle, sweet notes that hinted at romantic encounters.

Vers le Joie (Toward Joy): "Vers le Joie," released in 1927, translates to "Toward Joy." This perfume likely aimed to capture the exuberance and optimism of the Roaring Twenties. The scent might have been light and effervescent, with uplifting florals and citrus, designed to evoke a feeling of happiness and lightheartedness.

Lilac: The 1940 fragrance "Lilac" likely offered a pure and nostalgic floral scent, reminiscent of springtime. Lilacs have a soft, sweet, and slightly green aroma that is both comforting and fresh, possibly appealing to those seeking solace during the turbulent years of World War II.

Coloris: "Coloris," launched in 1940, translates to "Colors." This fragrance might have been a vibrant and multifaceted scent, potentially combining a spectrum of floral and fruity notes. It could symbolize the vibrancy and resilience of life even in challenging times, with a scent that was both lively and uplifting.

Frasques (Escapades): "Frasques," meaning "Escapades," suggests a daring and adventurous fragrance. This scent likely carried an air of intrigue, perhaps with spicy or oriental notes that evoked a sense of mystery and excitement, appealing to those seeking a break from the realities of the wartime period.

Gomorrhe (Gomorrah): Launched in 1946, "Gomorrhe" is a bold reference to the biblical city of Gomorrah. This fragrance likely had a dark, sensual character, possibly with deep, smoky, and resinous notes that conveyed a sense of forbidden indulgence and seduction.

Sodome (Sodom): "Sodome," also from 1946, paired with "Gomorrhe," would likely have shared a similarly provocative and intense profile. This fragrance might have been rich, heavy, and exotic, designed to evoke the allure of the forbidden, with a scent that was both opulent and daring.

Perfidie (Perfidy): "Perfidie," translating to "Perfidy," suggests betrayal or deceit. Launched in 1946, this perfume likely had a complex and layered scent, perhaps blending sweet florals with darker, more enigmatic notes. It would have been a fragrance that played with contrasts, embodying the duality of beauty and danger, trust, and treachery.

Each of these fragrances not only reflects Dormoy's creative vision but also encapsulates the cultural and emotional landscapes of the times in which they were created. Whether through the joyful exuberance of the 1920s or the more somber, reflective tones of the post-war years, Dormoy's perfumes offered a sensory journey through the eras they represented.

Bottles:

Marcelle Dormoy launched two perfumes in 1946, Sodome and Gomorrhe, after the famous Biblical cities of sin, Sodom and Gomorra.

Some of Marcelle Dormoy's perfumes in the 1940s were housed inside wooden presentation boxes, their bottles look a lot like the "apothecary" styled examples made by Baccarat during the time.

Coloris, photo by http://parfum-echecs.chez-alice.fr/parfum/curiosites/curiosites.html

Frasques, photo by Belle de Jour

Fate of the Fragrance:

Marcelle Dormoy's perfumes, once a symbol of elegance and innovation in the world of fragrance, appeared to have faded from the market by the 1950s. Dormoy's early creations, such as "Vers le Joie" and "Lilac," were emblematic of the sophistication and artistic flair that defined her work. However, like many heritage brands, her perfumes eventually became less prominent, seemingly disappearing as new trends and houses emerged in the mid-20th century.

In a remarkable revival, the Marcelle Dormoy brand was brought back to life in 2019, reigniting interest in her legacy with the release of three new perfumes: Nacarat, Heliodor, and Gemma Veneris. Each of these modern creations pays homage to the brand's storied past while appealing to contemporary tastes.

The brand was recently revived in 2019 and released a few perfumes:

• Nacarat  
• Heliodor 
• Gemma Veneris 

Nacarat is a name that evokes warmth and vibrancy, suggesting a fragrance that is bold, dynamic, and full of life. This perfume likely blends rich, warm notes with a hint of spice or citrus, creating a scent that is both invigorating and sophisticated. The name itself, derived from a shade of red-orange, hints at a fragrance that is passionate and lively, designed for those who embrace life with energy and enthusiasm.

Heliodor draws its name from the golden-yellow gemstone, known for its radiant and uplifting qualities. This fragrance likely embodies those same attributes, with bright, sunny notes that evoke a sense of optimism and clarity. Heliodor may blend citrus or floral elements with a warm, golden base, creating a scent that feels luxurious and invigorating, perfect for those who seek a fragrance that is both elegant and joyful.

Gemma Veneris is perhaps the most enigmatic of the trio, with a name that suggests a connection to Venus, the goddess of love and beauty. This perfume likely offers a complex and sensual scent, blending rich florals with deeper, more mysterious notes. Gemma Veneris may be designed to evoke both passion and grace, creating a fragrance that is timeless and alluring, capturing the essence of femininity in its most refined form.

The revival of Marcelle Dormoy’s brand in 2019 is not just a tribute to her legacy but also a testament to the enduring appeal of classic, well-crafted perfumes. With Nacarat, Heliodor, and Gemma Veneris, the brand has successfully reintroduced Dormoy’s vision to a new generation, blending the elegance of the past with the vibrancy of the present.

From their website:

"The fragrances are formulated by Karine Chevallier, independent perfumer and a woman of great experience.  

All Marcelle Dormoy perfume concentrates are made at Domaine Sainte-Blanche, on the heights of Grasse, South of France, world capital of fine perfumery.

Our manufacturer Art & Parfum and its perfumers are committed to defend the values of a quality perfumery. Their projects are long-term and transparent, in particular by working with producers of plants dedicated to fine perfumery, such as Rosa Centifolia (Rose de Mai) in Grasse, to offer unique raw materials.

This mythical place is steeped in history, and the privileged witness of a certain vision of perfume creation, aesthetics and beauty.

In a responsible approach, the components of our collection are supplied mainly from France, but also from Spain or Italy for the glass bottle.

The hood is bakelite, a 32% resin of plant origin from renewable sources, but also chosen for its density and beautiful cold touch. He is magnetized for addictive gesture !

The cases are made of FSC cardboard to preserve the forests. Finally, a small unique detail: the dip tube is virtually invisible, thanks to a brand new innovative material."

Gemma Veneris:  Gemma Veneris was the name given by Latin poets to a rare kind of amethyst , much sought after, varying from violet or crimson to white ." Veneris gemma is purple, mixed with violet, or like a rose's resplendent inside, and seems to glow gently against the eyes. " - The illustrations of Gaul, 1549.

A floral and woody signature with sensual elegance, which affirms the wearer with a bewitching and powdery aura. It begins with a strong blast of galbanum and Calabrian bergamot recalling the fresh scent of Earl Grey tea. This is followed by a heart of exotic Madagascar ylang ylang, radiant solar jasmine and the rosy scent of vintage lipstick. Layered on a woody, ambery base of creamy sandalwood from New Caledonia, earthy patchouli from Indonesia, amber, balsamic vanilla, musk and moss.

• Top notes: galbanum, Calabrian bergamot 
•  Middle notes: Madagascar ylang ylang, rose, jasmine
• Base notes: New Caledonian sandalwood, amber, Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, musk, moss

Heliodor: Subtle, with vegetal, aquatic and musky facets, Heliodor is fresh and sharp. Its facets are modern and powdery at the same time for a dynamic and determined aura. From the Greek hêlios, sun and dôrea, don. A Heliodor is a precious mineral, yellow in color with honey undertones, used in jewelry. It begins with a zesty citrus burst of Calabrian bergamot, pomelo, and juicy mandarin combined with the fresh vegetal note of sap. This is followed by an aquatic floral heart of jasmine and rose de mai absolutes from Grasse, cool iris and iced green tea, scattered with sea salt. Layered over a musky base featuring cardamom from Guatemala sprinkled over cedar driftwood, amber and vetiver.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, pomelo, mandarin, sap
•  Middle notes: Grasse Rose de Mai absolute, green tea, sea salt, jasmine, iris
• Base notes: cedar, Guatemalan cardamom, musk, vetiver

 

Nacarat: Both sensual and floral, the fragrance surrounds you with a generous aura. Nacarat is a color name in ancient French. It designates a shade of red, red-orange, or even pink, used mainly in the field of fashion and clothing. The fragrance opens with a sparkling fresh top note of Calabrian bergamot, soft yellow freesia and luminous blackcurrant, followed by a floral fruity heart of spicy wisteria clusters, lush orange blossoms, marigold from South Africa and tart raspberries, layered over a gourmand base of creamy vanilla, musk, earthy patchouli from Indonesia and a sweet coulis made from red fruits.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, blackcurrant, yellow freesia
•  Middle notes: wisteria, orange blossom, South African  marigold, raspberry
• Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, musk, vanilla, red fruits