Mary McFadden by Mary McFadden c1979

Launched in 1979, Mary McFadden by Mary McFadden was more than just a perfume—it was an olfactory extension of the designer's aesthetic vision. The choice to name the fragrance after herself was a deliberate statement, aligning it with her distinctive brand of fashion, which was known for its opulent textiles, global influences, and sculptural draping. As a designer, McFadden drew inspiration from ancient civilizations, art, and historical grandeur, and her name had come to evoke an air of elegance, refinement, and worldly sophistication. The name Mary McFadden itself, rooted in English and Irish heritage, carries connotations of strength and femininity, embodying the designer’s self-assured and aristocratic approach to style.

The late 1970s was a period of both glamour and transition. Following the free-spirited bohemianism of the 1960s and the daring decadence of early disco culture, women were embracing a more powerful, refined, and independent image. This was the era of luxurious eveningwear, Grecian drapery, and structured, sophisticated silhouettes, all of which were hallmarks of McFadden’s designs. Fashion at the time was a fusion of elegance and exoticism, as seen in the popularity of metallic fabrics, pleated gowns, and bold jewelry inspired by historical and international motifs. In perfumery, this translated into fragrances that were dramatic, intense, and richly complex, often with chypre and spicy floral compositions that exuded a bold, confident presence.

As a sharp, spicy floral chypre, Mary McFadden fit perfectly within this landscape of opulent, statement-making perfumes. Chypre fragrances, known for their woody, mossy bases and floral-citrus contrasts, were synonymous with power, sophistication, and mystery—qualities that reflected the aspirations of the modern woman in the late 1970s. "I had a concept of what I wanted ina  fragrance," said McFadden. "it had to be highly sensual, almost aphrodisiac." Unlike the soft, powdery florals of previous decades, Mary McFadden was bold and structured, much like the designer’s pleated, sculptural gowns. The fragrance’s sharp and spicy opening would have felt confident and assertive, setting it apart from the more overtly sweet and romantic perfumes of the time.

Women of the late 1970s and early 1980s were redefining their roles, stepping into positions of authority and influence in ways that had previously been less accessible. The working woman, the socialite, and the world traveler all sought fragrances that mirrored their ambition and sophistication. A perfume called Mary McFadden would have been perceived as a signature of elegance, evoking images of exotic destinations, couture craftsmanship, and timeless beauty.

Mary McFadden herself was an established fashion designer, textile historian, and socialite, celebrated for her “permanent pleating” technique, which mimicked the flowing garments of ancient Egypt and Greece. Her designs were known for their intricate embroidery, richly textured fabrics, and influences drawn from art history. Launching a fragrance was a natural extension of her brand, allowing her to capture the mystique and grandeur of her designs in scent form. By the late 1970s, many high-end designers were expanding into perfumery, understanding that fragrance was not just an accessory, but an essential part of a woman’s identity.

In the context of its era, Mary McFadden was both in step with contemporary trends and uniquely reflective of its creator’s vision. It catered to women who commanded attention, appreciated artistic luxury, and sought a scent that was as striking as their wardrobe. Like McFadden’s designs, the fragrance transported the wearer to another world—one of refinement, culture, and timeless sophistication.

 

 The Name:

When Mary McFadden was in the process of naming her first fragrance, she initially considered a variety of elegant and evocative names. Among the possibilities were Aemelia, Cymbeline, Cleon, and Nefertari—each name rooted in history and imbued with a sense of grandeur and mystique. These names, each drawn from different cultural and historical sources, were not chosen randomly but reflected McFadden’s affinity for classic beauty, strength, and exoticism. However, in the end, McFadden chose to name the perfume after herself, Mary McFadden, a decision that created a personal connection between the fragrance and its creator, emphasizing her direct influence on the design and essence of the scent.

Let’s explore the women behind the names McFadden considered. Aemelia is a name derived from ancient Rome, notably belonging to Aemilia Paulla, a noblewoman who was the wife of the Roman general Scipio Africanus. The name Aemelia evokes strength, grace, and the power of ancient Roman heritage. It suggests a woman of refinement, someone who embodies the virtues of Roman nobility and the timeless elegance of that era.

Cymbeline, on the other hand, is a name found in Shakespeare’s play Cymbeline, a character who, though lesser-known, represents a queen and a mother of strength, loyalty, and resilience. The character is often seen as a symbol of wisdom and understanding, qualities that Mary McFadden might have wanted her fragrance to embody. The name evokes the mystique of Shakespearean drama, with all its layers of emotion, tragedy, and triumph.

Cleon is a name of Greek origin, historically linked to Cleon of Athens, an influential but controversial politician in the 5th century BCE. While not as widely remembered as other figures of classical Greece, Cleon’s name suggests political power and boldness, connotations that could tie well to the confident and assertive nature of a fragrance.

Finally, Nefertari, meaning “the most beautiful” in Egyptian, is the name of one of the most famous queens of ancient Egypt, the wife of Pharaoh Ramses II. Nefertari was renowned for her beauty, intelligence, and powerful presence, qualities that McFadden likely admired. The name evokes images of ancient Egypt’s grandeur, its rich culture, and its legendary queens who ruled with grace and authority.

Ultimately, while these names were rich with historical and literary significance, McFadden decided to honor her own legacy by naming the fragrance after herself. In doing so, she ensured that her own identity—her design philosophy, her understanding of beauty, and her unique approach to luxury—would be the central focus of the perfume’s narrative. The decision to name the fragrance Mary McFadden reflected a deep sense of confidence and a commitment to making her personal vision the hallmark of her fragrance’s identity.

The Inspiration:

Mary McFadden's creation of her namesake fragrance was inspired by an extraordinary experience during a visit to a 13th-century Burmese temple. The moment she entered, she was immediately enveloped by a scent so captivating and rich that it left an indelible mark on her senses. This fragrance, she described, was "as close as you can come to an aphrodisiac." The aroma was a heady, sweet blend that left McFadden yearning to replicate its intoxicating qualities. The memory of the fragrance, described as "deep purple," became the blueprint for her perfume, with the color "purple" itself representing the sensuous, seductive qualities she wished to evoke. McFadden emphasized that these "purple" notes gave the fragrance a "saucy and sexy" quality, making it alluring and irresistibly bold.

To bring this vision to life, McFadden drew from a luxurious and complex palette of ingredients that ranged from the exotic to the familiar, each adding to the fragrance’s richness and depth. The perfume’s floral heart includes five different roses, sourced from the famed rose-growing regions of Morocco, Egypt, Grasse, Turkey and Bulgaria. Each rose contributes its own unique characteristics. These varied roses, combined with four different jasmines, create a powerful, floral foundation that evokes both luxury and sensuality.

In addition to the roses and jasmines, McFadden's fragrance includes hyacinth, which adds a fresh, green, and slightly aquatic quality, while ylang-ylang introduces a tropical, sweetly floral scent that is both exotic and intoxicating. Adding further to this captivating floral bouquet is a tropical plant that only blooms at night, bringing an elusive and mysterious quality to the perfume, reminiscent of the magical atmosphere she encountered in the temple.

The fragrance’s base notes are a rich blend of earthy and spicy elements, including coriander, patchouli, Indian davana, labdanum, myrrh, sandalwood, and musk. These elements provide the fragrance with its depth, grounding the floral notes and adding an air of sophistication. The patchouli, with its earthy, woody aroma, brings a richness to the perfume that balances the sweetness of the florals, while the Indian davana contributes a slightly fruity, herbal note that adds complexity. Labdanum and myrrh provide resinous, balsamic qualities that bring a sense of warmth and sensuality to the composition. The combination of sandalwood and musk creates a creamy, velvety base that lingers on the skin, imparting an air of understated luxury.

McFadden’s fragrance was produced with the help of one of the two major fragrance manufacturers in the USA, both based in New Jersey. The perfume was filled and packaged in the United States, but its ingredients were sourced from all over the world, underscoring the global nature of the perfume industry and McFadden’s desire to create something truly international. By blending the finest ingredients from across the globe, McFadden not only captured the essence of her inspiring experience but also created a perfume that embodies the sophisticated, seductive aura she envisioned.

Marketing:

Mary McFadden’s launch of her eponymous fragrance was not just about the perfume itself but also about creating a luxurious, exclusive experience. To ensure that her fragrance made a statement, she planned a robust $3 million advertising campaign, a sizable investment that underscored her commitment to making a grand entrance into the competitive fragrance market. This campaign, however, was not solely about promoting the perfume. McFadden made it clear that the campaign would also benefit Sloan Kettering, one of the leading cancer centers in the United States, lending an air of philanthropy and social responsibility to the launch. By associating her fragrance with such a respected institution, McFadden positioned the perfume as not just a luxury item but as a product with a purpose, emphasizing a sense of charity and personal involvement.

At the launch event, McFadden spoke with a certain sense of optimism about the future of her brand. She expressed her hope that, in three years, her customers would return not just for another bottle of perfume, but for the unveiling of what she envisioned as “the most beautiful, erotic line of cosmetics you’ve ever seen.” This ambitious statement hinted at McFadden’s broader aspirations for her brand, imagining a future where her perfumes and cosmetics would embody an aura of sensuality and sophistication, much like the fragrance she was about to introduce.

In terms of distribution, McFadden was careful about exclusivity. The fragrance was only available at 200 select retail locations, ensuring that each one would be a special, curated place where her customers could purchase the perfume. This limited availability, including both department stores and smaller, more specialized boutiques, helped cultivate a sense of rarity and prestige around the fragrance. By restricting the number of outlets where the perfume could be found, McFadden ensured that her scent would be linked to exclusivity, making it even more desirable to a clientele that appreciated the allure of luxury. This strategic approach to distribution aligned perfectly with the perfume’s image, catering to a market that valued both quality and rarity

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Mary McFadden by Mary McFadden is classified as a sharp and spicy floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Persian galbanum, Malabar black pepper, Dutch hyacinth, Indian davana oil, Russian coriander
• Middle notes: Jasminum sambac (Arabian Jasmine), Jasminum grandiflorum (Spanish Jasmine), Jasminum officinale (Poet's Jasmine), and Jasminum auriculatum, Spanish carnation, Comoros Island ylang ylang, Moroccan rose, Egyptian rose, Bulgarian rose, Grasse rose, Turkish rose, Florentine iris, Ceylon cinnamon
• Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, Maltese labdanum, Sudanese myrrh absolute, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Tonkin musk, ambergris from the Azores, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver, Abyssinian civet

Scent Profile:

Mary McFadden by Mary McFadden, a sharp and spicy floral chypre fragrance, envelops you in a multifaceted, captivating aroma that draws you into its complexity. Each note in this creation is a deliberate blend of natural ingredients and skillfully crafted synthetic elements, each chosen for its unique characteristics and origin.

The top notes offer a brilliant burst of freshness that immediately grabs your attention. The opening is vibrant with aldehydes, which give the fragrance an effervescent, almost soapy freshness, lending a clean, metallic edge that sharpens the floral elements. Calabrian bergamot, sourced from the coastal regions of southern Italy, offers a refined citrusy zest, its slightly bitter and slightly sweet profile distinguishing it from other varieties. The Sicilian lemon, known for its aromatic intensity and sharper acidity, complements the bergamot with its tangy brightness, both ingredients contributing to the sharpness of the fragrance's introduction. Persian galbanum, a rare resinous note with green, slightly balsamic qualities, brings an herbaceous bitterness that enhances the chypre structure, evoking the scent of freshly crushed leaves and adding an earthy, sharp clarity that resonates throughout the perfume.

The Malabar black pepper, sourced from the Malabar coast in India, gives the fragrance an unmistakable warmth and spicy depth, its fiery, aromatic qualities contributing to the "sharp and spicy" characteristic of this perfume. Dutch hyacinth, a floral with a fresh, green, and slightly powdery scent, lends an air of lightness and spring-like freshness, adding to the floral complexity. Indian davana oil introduces an intriguing sweetness, with a faint fruity and herbal character, rounding out the sharpness with a soft, velvety texture. Lastly, Russian coriander offers a slightly citrusy and spicy aspect, enhancing the opening's freshness while balancing the more intense notes with its delicate yet spicy nature.

As the perfume evolves, the middle notes begin to bloom with a rich, intoxicating bouquet of florals, where multiple varieties of jasmine take center stage. Jasminum sambac (Arabian Jasmine), with its deep, sweet, and slightly fruity character, evokes the romantic, warm nights of the Middle East. Jasminum grandiflorum (Spanish Jasmine), with its heady and full-bodied scent, imparts a classic floral richness, while Jasminum officinale (Poet's Jasmine) offers a more delicate, green floral quality, and Jasminum auriculatum introduces a slightly sharper, more green floral note with a hint of spiciness. The combined effect is a complex and layered floral heart, intoxicating and luxurious.

The presence of Spanish carnation infuses the heart with a spicy floral warmth, reminiscent of clove with a rich, almost cinnamon-like intensity. The addition of Comoros Island ylang-ylang, with its exotic, sweet, and slightly creamy floral nature, deepens the fragrance further, its sensual richness balancing the sharpness of the earlier notes. The Moroccan, Egyptian, Bulgarian, Grasse, and Turkish roses create a full floral tapestry, each contributing its own distinctive quality. Moroccan rose brings a soft, honeyed floralcy; Egyptian rose, rich and velvety; Bulgarian rose, full-bodied and green; Grasse rose, warm and opulent; and Turkish rose, with its spicy, honeyed nuances. The blend of these roses results in a truly sumptuous, multi-layered floral heart, balancing sweetness, spice, and complexity.

Florentine iris introduces a powdery, woody floral note that adds refinement and sophistication, while Ceylon cinnamon contributes a subtle warmth and spiciness that ties together the floral heart with its sweet, yet slightly pungent character.

As the perfume settles into its base, the Indonesian patchouli provides the rich, earthy, and woody depth typical of chypre fragrances. The patchouli's dark, musky aroma gives the perfume a grounding, sensual quality that contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the top and heart notes. Maltese labdanum brings an amber-like, resinous warmth, deepening the fragrance with a sweet, balsamic richness. Sudanese myrrh absolute adds a smoky, resinous, and slightly bitter note, amplifying the perfume's mysterious and opulent aura.

Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy, warm, and slightly sweet character, creates a smooth, velvety foundation that enhances the overall warmth of the base. The inclusion of Venezuelan tonka bean introduces a sweet, almond-like richness, adding depth and a smooth, comforting sweetness. Coumarin, with its sweet hay-like aroma, heightens the tonka bean’s almond sweetness, creating a cozy, enveloping effect.

The base is further enriched by the addition of Tonkin musk, a synthetic musky note that contributes to the perfume’s sensual, animalic warmth, enhancing the natural musks and adding longevity to the fragrance. Ambergris from the Azores contributes a rich, marine, slightly salty nuance that enhances the fragrance’s complexity, while Tyrolean oakmoss, sourced from the mountainous regions of Europe, adds the characteristic mossy, earthy base that defines the chypre structure. Java vetiver brings a smoky, woody depth, and Abyssinian civet, an animalic note, adds an alluring, musky warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s rich sensuality.

Together, these ingredients create a perfume that is complex, sensual, and undeniably sophisticated—a true embodiment of the sharp and spicy floral chypre genre, with an array of ingredients sourced from all over the globe. The use of both natural elements and synthetic compounds enhances the fragrance’s lasting power, complexity, and depth, creating a signature scent that is both luxurious and unforgettable.

Bottles:

Mary McFadden’s eponymous perfume was presented in a strikingly elegant bottle, designed to echo the fluid, sculptural beauty of her trademark “marii” pleats. The term “marii” refers to a specialized pleating technique McFadden developed, inspired by ancient textiles and classical drapery. The name itself derives from Indonesian, reflecting her deep appreciation for global artistry and craftsmanship. This pleating method created a permanently crinkled effect in silk, reminiscent of the flowing robes seen in Greek and Egyptian antiquity, a stylistic signature that McFadden infused into both her fashion and fragrance.

The perfume bottle’s design is a direct extension of this aesthetic vision. Tall and gracefully swirling, the glass flacon captures the sinuous folds of pleated fabric, embodying a sense of movement and fluidity. A knot is sculpted into the design, reinforcing McFadden’s belief in its symbolic connection to love throughout history. “Knots through the centuries have symbolized the many aspects of love,” she explained, referencing their presence in ancient art, jewelry, and textiles as emblems of eternity, unity, and devotion.

McFadden herself played a hands-on role in the creation of the crystal perfume bottle. Rather than sketching a traditional design, she employed a more organic approach—taking a swatch of her iconic pleated silk, twisting it into an elegant coil, and securing it with a braided cord. This tactile, fabric-based model was then handed to a skilled glass sculptor, who translated the form into crystal, preserving the essence of soft, flowing silk in solid glass. The result was a breathtakingly unique flacon, seamlessly blending fashion and fragrance into an artistic masterpiece.

The packaging reflected McFadden’s signature color palette, embodying the refined luxury she was known for. The perfume was housed inside a box in her classic McFadden mauve, a soft, sophisticated shade that was offset by the richness of glossy Coromandel red accents. This color scheme was a deliberate nod to Chinese lacquerware and exotic textiles, elements that frequently inspired her couture collections.

For those who desired a more portable option, McFadden introduced a 1/5 oz Purse Flacon, which maintained the elegance of the full-sized bottle but in a compact, travel-friendly form. This version featured a smooth, ivory enamel-colored surface, exuding a timeless sophistication, and was further adorned with golden braided cords, reinforcing the motif of knots and pleats while adding a touch of ornamental luxury. The Purse Flacon provided a seamless way to carry the scent, ensuring that the romantic and opulent essence of Mary McFadden’s fragrance could accompany its wearer wherever they went.

Product Line:

The Mary McFadden Perfume Collection was an elegantly curated line that offered a range of concentrations and packaging options, catering to both luxury fragrance connoisseurs and those seeking a more accessible version of the scent. Each formulation varied in intensity, longevity, and overall scent experience, reflecting the artistry and craftsmanship behind the fragrance.

At the pinnacle of the collection was the Parfum, the most concentrated and luxurious form of the fragrance. It was available in several sizes, each exquisitely packaged to reflect the sophistication of Mary McFadden's aesthetic. The 1/5 oz Parfum Purse Flacon, priced at $45, was designed for portability and came with its own brass funnel, allowing for easy refilling—an elegant touch that underscored its exclusivity. 

The 0.25 oz Parfum, priced at $35, stood 3.5 inches tall, offering a slightly larger but still intimate experience of the perfume’s full-bodied richness. For those desiring a more generous supply, the 0.5 oz Parfum, retailing at $60, was housed in a 4-inch tall bottle, while the 1 oz Parfum, the largest in this concentration at 5 inches tall, retailed for $110, embodying the ultimate indulgence. Parfum, due to its high concentration of essential oils (typically 20-30%), was the most long-lasting and intense version of the fragrance, unfolding gradually with warmth and depth on the skin.

For a lighter, more wearable interpretation, the collection featured Eau de Toilette (EDT), which contained a lower concentration of aromatic compounds (typically 5-15%), resulting in a fresher, more diffusive experience. The Eau de Toilette Mini, standing 2.25 inches tall, offered a convenient introduction to the scent, ideal for travel or sampling. The 1.5 oz Eau de Toilette, priced at $16, and its Natural Spray counterpart, retailing for $18, provided an affordable entry into the fragrance line, catering to those who preferred a misting application. The larger 3 oz Eau de Toilette, at $26, was perfect for everyday wear, while the 3 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray, slightly higher at $30, added convenience with its fine atomizer dispersal, ensuring an even application of the scent.

To complement the fragrance experience, the collection also included the 3 oz Body Silk Lotion, which would have been infused with the signature scent, allowing for layering and enhancing the longevity of the fragrance on the skin. This lotion provided a softer, more subtle diffusion of the perfume while nourishing the skin with a luxurious, silky texture.

Overall, the Mary McFadden Perfume Collection was meticulously crafted to offer a variety of intensities and application methods, from the opulent and long-lasting Parfum to the airy and refreshing Eau de Toilette, along with a scented lotion for layering. The inclusion of both traditional bottles and natural spray formats ensured accessibility for every type of fragrance wearer, while the exquisite presentation reflected the brand’s dedication to elegance and refinement.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1978, Mary McFadden signed a contract with Lightbourne Products, a newly formed company specializing in fragrance development, marketing, and distribution. Lightbourne was founded in July 1978 and was led by Stanley G. "Tony" Mortimer III as chairman and Lawrence H. Appel as president. Appel had previously served as vice president of marketing for the Yves Saint Laurent division of Lanvin-Charles of the Ritz, bringing industry experience to the new venture. The company aimed to position the Mary McFadden signature fragrance at the high-end of the market, securing distribution in prestigious department stores by spring 1979. In anticipation of the launch, McFadden filed for a trademark on her name in 1979, ensuring legal protection for her perfume and eau de toilette lines.

However, by April 1981, rumors surfaced that McFadden was considering legal action against Lightbourne and Paley, citing mismanagement of her fragrance line. She believed that the promotion and marketing had been poorly handled, leading to disappointing sales. Lightbourne was managed by Paley’s stepson, "Tony" Mortimer, and had received $2 million in funding from William S. Paley, chairman of CBS. McFadden felt that the investment was insufficient, arguing that a successful fragrance launch required at least $10 million in funding to compete effectively in the luxury market. By June 1981, she publicly blamed Paley for the perfume’s failure, noting that shipments to domestic retailers had ceased since February 1981. Despite Paley’s vast personal wealth—estimated at over $100 million—McFadden claimed he had not committed adequate resources to properly promote and sustain the brand.

The business arrangement had seemed promising at first. McFadden’s mother, Josie Blair, was a close friend of Barbara "Babe" Paley, and McFadden had known Tony Mortimer since childhood. Their families had shared a privileged social circle, even having nannies in common. However, according to industry insiders, Lightbourne Products was largely formed because Babe Paley had wanted to venture into fashion and cosmetics, a business seen as relatively low-risk. Unfortunately, Babe Paley became ill with cancer and was unable to participate in the company’s operations before her passing. While Lightbourne projected an image of success and prestige, the fragrance business ultimately struggled.

McFadden, who by early 1981, oversaw a thriving apparel line and 31 product licenses generating $35 million at wholesale, expressed frustration over her limited role in the fragrance company. She claimed that Tony Mortimer and Paley excluded her from financial decisions and daily operations, involving her only in promotional efforts. Despite its luxury positioning, the perfume achieved its highest annual sales volume at just $850,000 in 1979, a modest figure in the competitive fragrance industry.

In June 1981, Mary McFadden was shocked and infuriated when she received a letter from Lightbourne Products, the company responsible for marketing her fragrance line, informing her that they had suspended efforts to promote her fragrance, eau de toilette, and body lotion. The letter was a devastating blow, leaving McFadden not only disappointed but also deeply frustrated with the way her product had been handled. She had invested significant time and energy into creating a fragrance she truly believed in, and the sudden halt in marketing efforts seemed like a betrayal. McFadden's frustration grew as she realized that the firm had not adequately financed the project nor had they employed imaginative strategies for its promotion.

In response, McFadden took to the press to voice her grievances. She composed a letter in which she directly accused Lightbourne Products of failing her and mishandling the fragrance launch. Her accusations centered on the firm's lack of financial commitment and lackluster promotional tactics, which, in her view, had prevented the fragrance from achieving its deserved recognition. Despite the setback, McFadden remained resolute in her belief that the fragrance was an outstanding product, one that had great potential in the market if only it were properly supported. She continued to hold the conviction that her creation deserved public acceptance, and her determination to see it succeed was unwavering.

McFadden's letter to the press expressed her hope for a future in which her fragrance could return to the market, this time with more competent and innovative backing. She was not willing to let the failure define her product, and she sought to ensure that the fragrance would be given another chance under more capable stewardship. In her mind, the potential for success was still within reach, and she was committed to doing whatever it took to bring her fragrance to the forefront of the industry, where she believed it belonged.

The Lightbourne-McFadden business entanglement was further complicated by overlapping social and financial connections. Mortimer’s college roommate, Carter Burden, later married Mortimer’s sister, Amanda. Her estranged second husband, Steve Ross, was chairman of Warner Communications, which coincidentally distributed Ralph Lauren’s cosmetics—a deal that Lightbourne had originally turned down. Additionally, J. Patrick Lannan, a financier and longtime McFadden advisor, had orchestrated the Lightbourne licensing deal, including a stipulation that he must approve any future transfer of the contract. However, their professional relationship deteriorated, and by late 1981, Lightbourne was actively seeking a buyer for the McFadden fragrance license.

By 1982, McFadden announced plans to revive her signature fragrance, aiming for a re-release once she regained control of her name from William S. Paley. The trademark was officially registered in 1982, but was considered “dead” by 1996, signaling that no further efforts were made to relaunch the scent. Her perfume appears to have been definitively discontinued by 1981, making it exceedingly rare today. It was never launched in Europe, limiting its availability even further. Occasionally, vintage bottles surface on eBay or Etsy, though their scarcity commands high price tags. For those seeking a similar olfactory experience, recommendations include Kyoto by Comme des Garçons (Incense Series) or Andy Tauer’s Maroc Pour Elle, both of which share the spiced, exotic character of McFadden’s original scent.

 

Alabaster & Gold:

Despite the discontinuation of her 1979 signature fragrance, Mary McFadden re-entered the perfume market in 1996 with the introduction of two new fragrances, Gold and Alabaster. These perfumes were created in collaboration with Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd., an American company known for producing designer and niche fragrances. The compositions of both scents were developed by perfumers at Quest International, a renowned fragrance house responsible for crafting numerous high-end perfumes.

Unlike her first fragrance, which was primarily available in the United States, Gold and Alabaster were distributed exclusively in the United Kingdom, where they were sold in selective high-end retail outlets. This limited distribution contributed to their exclusivity, making them highly sought-after among collectors and fragrance enthusiasts.

Both fragrances have since been discontinued and are now exceptionally rare to find. Due to their scarcity, bottles of Gold and Alabaster occasionally surface on secondary markets like eBay or specialist perfume trading platforms, often commanding high prices. Their rarity has only heightened their desirability among those who appreciate Mary McFadden's aesthetic and the artistry of niche perfumery.

Alabaster:

Press materials describe it as having "A very exciting top note melange dominated by special natural notes of Madonna lilium, yellow water iris. Bulgarian red rose, Delft blue hyacinth and unique natural Southern magnolia absolute. Added sparkling notes of muguet, white carnation and Moroccan cassie are creatively woven into the top. Middle notes: fragrance jasmine oil from Egypt and neroli oil from Morocco play an important role in the heart notes along with Roman chamomile, raspberry, Zanzibar clove bud oil. Ylang ylang absolute from the Comoros Islands and blue hyacinth for extra sparkle. Base notes: An aura of clarity is maintained throughout the fragrance while enhancing the exotic allure. Transparent woods, Haitian vetiver, creamy Indian sandalwood and rich tree moss create the sportive accord along with Siamese benzoin and clean musk."

Alabaster by Mary McFadden is classified as a soft fresh green floral oriental fragrance.  

• Top notes: madonna lily, yellow water iris, Bulgarian rose, Dutch blue hyacinth, Southern Georgia magnolia absolute, Alpine lily of the valley, French carnation, Moroccan cassie
• Middle notes: Egyptian jasmine oil, Moroccan neroli oil, Roman chamomile, raspberry, Zanzibar clove bud oil, Comoros Island ylang ylang absolute
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Indian sandalwood, tree moss, Siamese benzoin, Tonkin musk

 

Alabaster was described by Luca Turin as “A very modern, rather mannered perfume with interesting creamy-green head notes reminiscent of marron glace. A solid, well-constructed heart follows, in the eighties tradition of Ivoire and Madame Carven. The early dry down has a very melodious feel, at once nutty and soapy, but later becomes slightly tiresome and chemical as the quality runs out."

Scent Profile:

Alabaster by Mary McFadden unfolds like a luminous veil of silk, a fragrance that captures the essence of delicate florals entwined with the warmth of the earth. It is a soft fresh green floral oriental, where each note contributes to an exquisite tapestry of scent, moving from radiant transparency to deep sensuality.

As the perfume first touches the skin, it blooms with a breath of white florals, evoking the fresh purity of spring gardens at dawn. Madonna lily, a regal white flower, lends its creamy, waxen sweetness, balanced with an almost green crispness, reminiscent of dewy petals. Yellow water iris, with its aquatic nuances, softens the intensity of the lily, adding a cool, almost ozonic clarity, as if kissed by the mist of a hidden lake. A cascade of Bulgarian rose follows, exuding its famous honeyed, slightly citrusy opulence. The roses of Bulgaria, nurtured in the famed Valley of Roses, are known for their unparalleled richness, a delicate balance of fruity facets and deep, velvety petals. This interplay is enhanced by the Dutch blue hyacinth, which introduces a powdery, almost spicy depth, making the floral heart more textured.

The Southern Georgia magnolia absolute adds a buttery smoothness, with an aroma that bridges lemony brightness and creamy floral warmth. This magnolia, flourishing in the humid southeastern United States, possesses a naturally languid, heady sweetness, making it richer than its Asian counterparts. Alpine lily of the valley, a rarer, high-altitude variety, contributes its signature delicate, dewy green freshness, a whisper of early spring on the wind. Softly threading through is French carnation, carrying a clove-like spiciness, lending a subtle warmth that prepares the senses for the richness to come. Finally, Moroccan cassie, a relative of mimosa, introduces a delicate powdery, honeyed warmth, its slightly almond-like undertones weaving effortlessly into the floral tapestry.

As the top notes melt away, the fragrance begins to unfold into its golden heart, where radiant florals merge with spices and fruit. Egyptian jasmine oil, among the most prized in the world, radiates indolic sensuality, its narcotic, honeyed richness capturing the warmth of the Egyptian sun. Moroccan neroli oil, extracted from bitter orange blossoms, introduces a bright yet sultry facet, its citrus-kissed white floral aroma shimmering with hints of green.

Roman chamomile, gentler and more honeyed than its German counterpart, brings a soft herbal warmth, grounding the succulent tartness of raspberry. The interplay of fruit and flowers is warmed by Zanzibar clove bud oil, sourced from the spice-laden coasts of the Indian Ocean, where its warm, eugenol-rich spice carries a hint of peppery sweetness. This spice deepens the composition, balancing the ethereal florals with an exotic, almost amber-like richness.

Lastly, Comoros Island ylang ylang absolute, harvested from the volcanic islands off the East African coast, introduces its tropical, almost banana-tinged creaminess, a floral nectar that smooths the sharper edges of spice and fruit, leading the perfume toward its lush, resinous base. As the perfume settles into its final act, a velvety warmth envelops the skin. Haitian vetiver, known for its dry, earthy-smoky elegance, anchors the composition, lending a whisper of damp roots and sun-baked wood. Unlike vetiver from Java, which can be more pungent, the Haitian variety is softer, with an airy transparency, making it an ideal bridge between the perfume’s fresher and richer elements.

Indian sandalwood, with its creamy, meditative smoothness, unfolds gently, intertwining with the subtle mossy dampness of tree moss, evoking the scent of an ancient forest floor after rainfall. These earthy nuances contrast beautifully with Siamese benzoin, a balsamic resin that exudes vanillic warmth with whispers of caramelized amber, wrapping the entire composition in a luminous, golden glow. Finally, Tonkin musk, a legendary note, whispers through the base, adding an intangible, skin-like sensuality. Though natural musk is no longer used, modern aroma-chemical recreations capture its animalic warmth, amplifying the richness of the florals and resins. This synthetic musk enhances the longevity, allowing Alabaster to linger on the skin like a silken caress, warm yet ephemeral.

Alabaster is an ode to refinement, its soft green floral oriental composition flowing seamlessly from dewy translucence to deep sensuality. The interplay of rare botanicals, exotic resins, and delicate spices creates a perfume that is at once ethereal and grounded, radiant and enveloping. With its limited availability, Alabaster remains a rare, coveted treasure, a whisper of elegance from the house of Mary McFadden that still lingers in the memories of those fortunate enough to have experienced it.

Gold:

Gold was said to be similar to Thierry Mugler's Angel, but without the vanilla, and additional notes of mint and aldehydes. 

Press materials for the fragrances describe it as: "Top note: a complex of Egyptian night blooming jasmine, Roman chamomile, red Moroccan rose, Chinese quince and a hint of rum. A touch of coriander, rosewood oil, Italian bergamot and fir balsam absolute complete the introductory accord. Middle notes of jasmine, rose, rum and fir. New notes with alluring qualities are Indian davana oil, a Middle Eastern spice complex highlighted by cardamom and a nuance of a very special honey quality. Base notes lingering nuances of cananga oil and honey round out an intriguing woody accord of Middle Eastern wood, African ebony wood and Ceylonese sandalwood. Warmth and richness is heightened by the use of myrrh absolute from the Sudan, tonka bean and vanilla infusion from Madagascar."

Gold by Mary McFadden is classified as a fresh fruity woody oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Egyptian night blooming jasmine, Roman chamomile, Moroccan rose, Chinese quince, rum, Russian coriander, Brazilian rosewood oil, Italian bergamot, Canadian fir balsam absolute
• Middle notes: Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose, Indian davana oil, Java ylang ylang oil, Middle eastern spices, Ceylon cardamom, Provencal honey
• Base notes: Comoros Island ylang ylang oil, Middle Eastern precious woods, African ebony, Ceylonese sandalwood, Sudanese myrrh absolute, Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla infusion

Scent Profile:

Gold unfolds in a radiant, almost celestial manner—a luminous oriental fragrance that shimmers with fruit, spice, and woods, yet remains airy and modern. Inspired by the opulence of gilded textiles and the richness of rare ingredients sourced from across the world, this perfume is a composition of contrasts: freshness and warmth, vibrancy and depth, ethereal lightness and earthy sensuality.

From the first breath, Gold reveals a lively burst of aldehydes, their effervescent fizz creating an airy, champagne-like sparkle that lifts the heavier, more sumptuous notes to come. These aldehydes enhance the crisp citrus brightness of Italian bergamot, which feels almost like sunlight hitting golden fabric, shimmering with an invigorating zest. Unlike bergamot from other regions, the Italian variety is prized for its delicate floral undertone, which seamlessly blends into the honeyed richness of the florals.

The perfume deepens as Chinese quince unfurls—a fruit with an aromatic sharpness, somewhere between a tart apple and lush pear, lending an almost crystalline freshness that cuts through the richness. This fruitiness is juxtaposed against the boozy warmth of rum, which adds a velvety smoothness, a hint of deep, fermented sweetness reminiscent of aged barrels.

As the fruity facets dance, the aromatic greenness of Russian coriander emerges, its peppery-citrus spice adding a cooling contrast to the sweetness. This unique coriander, grown in the colder Russian climate, develops a more intensely herbal and resinous quality, distinguishing it from milder Mediterranean varieties. Meanwhile, Brazilian rosewood oil, with its rosy, slightly peppery-woody aroma, infuses a warm, almost lacquered depth to the top notes, providing a subtle bridge between the sparkling florals and the deeper, woodier heart.

As the aldehydic shimmer begins to settle, the floral tapestry of Gold begins to bloom. Egyptian night-blooming jasmine, an intoxicating, intensely white floral, unfurls its almost narcotic sweetness, tempered by the soft herbal warmth of Roman chamomile. Chamomile, while often calming, has a subtle fruitiness that here enhances the quince, bringing out an almost honeyed nuance. Moroccan rose, renowned for its opulent, deep spiced-petal aroma, adds a richness that hints at the oriental heart to come. Canadian fir balsam absolute, a surprising but masterful addition, brings an unexpected freshness, a breath of pine-scented air cutting through the dense floral opulence. Unlike Siberian fir, which leans camphorous, the Canadian variety is softer, with a sweet resinous quality that subtly hints at the deep, woody facets that will soon emerge.

As Gold settles into its heart, the Egyptian jasmine becomes even richer, now blended with the deeply velvety Turkish rose, whose damask petals exude an almost fruity, tea-like aroma. This floral opulence is complemented by Indian davana oil, a fascinating ingredient that shifts according to the wearer’s skin chemistry. Davana’s fruity, almost apricot-like sweetness, tinged with a hint of boozy warmth, merges seamlessly with the rum from the top notes, extending the perfume’s indulgent golden warmth. Adding depth and a soft tropical creaminess is Java ylang ylang oil, which differs from the more common Comoros variety due to its richer, slightly green banana-like undertones. This adds a smooth, solar warmth, keeping the heart sensual without becoming overpowering.

A whisper of Middle Eastern spices and Ceylon cardamom rises through the florals, adding an exotic vibrancy. Cardamom, sourced from the lush plantations of Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), has a lemony, slightly camphorous warmth, which accentuates both the aldehydic opening and the honeyed sweetness that follows. Here, Provençal honey glows at the core of Gold, wrapping the spices and florals in its rich, golden warmth. Honey from Provence is known for its sun-drenched floral nectar, often tinged with hints of lavender and wild herbs, adding a depth that is not just sweet but resinous, with a lingering warmth.

As Gold begins to settle, the florals melt into an intricate, deeply resinous woody base. Comoros Island ylang ylang oil, now darker and richer, merges with Middle Eastern precious woods, creating a luxurious woody warmth that feels both regal and intimate. The scent of African ebony rises—its dark, almost smoky smoothness grounding the perfume with an air of mystery. The rich creaminess of Ceylonese sandalwood now takes center stage, its velvety, slightly smoky warmth adding a meditative depth. Unlike Australian sandalwood, the Ceylonese variety is deeper and more resinous, carrying a natural sweetness that enhances the honeyed tones from earlier.

Adding a touch of ancient mystique is Sudanese myrrh absolute, a resin used for centuries in perfumery and ritual. This variety of myrrh is particularly smoky, slightly leathery, and balsamic, lending an almost sacred incense-like quality to Gold’s dry down. Finally, a smooth, sensuous warmth emerges from Venezuelan tonka bean and Madagascar vanilla infusion. The tonka bean, with its almond-like, slightly spiced tobacco warmth, enhances the woods, while the Madagascar vanilla, extracted through infusion rather than distillation, retains a more natural, custard-like depth, caressing the skin like liquid gold.

While the fragrance was often compared to Thierry Mugler’s Angel, it forgoes Angel’s dominant vanilla-patchouli-caramel gourmand base, replacing it with something more refined, more gilded. The aldehydic top, the honeyed florals, and the complex woody dry-down create a scent that feels opulent yet weightless, shimmering like finely woven gold threads in candlelight.

Gold is a masterpiece of balance, a fragrance that shines with fruity brightness, floral richness, and a deep, balsamic warmth. It is angelic yet grounded, luminous yet mysterious, a scent that lingers like an echo of something both timeless and rare. With its discontinuation, it has become a true collector’s treasure—an embodiment of perfumed luxury that whispers rather than shouts, glows rather than burns, gilds rather than overwhelms.

My Treasure by Mary McFadden:

Around 1999, the Mary McFadden fragrance line experienced a brief but notable revival, with the introduction of a new perfume: My Treasure. True to McFadden’s signature aesthetic—one steeped in opulence, history, and artistry—this fragrance was designed to embody a sense of luxury, personal elegance, and timeless beauty. Unlike her previous releases, My Treasure was exclusively available through QVC, a decision that made it an intimate, almost secret indulgence for those who were able to acquire it. Its limited distribution contributed to its elusive, almost mythical status, and today, it remains one of the most sought-after scents among collectors and enthusiasts.

Marketed by Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, the same company behind McFadden’s earlier scents Gold and Alabaster, My Treasure was crafted to reflect both modern sophistication and the timeless allure of classic perfumery. Though the precise composition of the fragrance remains shrouded in mystery, its reputation suggests a blend of lush fruits, rich florals, sensual woods, and soft oriental nuances, in keeping with McFadden’s previous olfactory creations. The name itself—My Treasure—suggests a fragrance that was deeply personal, a scent meant to be cherished like a rare jewel or an heirloom piece.

Despite its short-lived presence in the market, My Treasure left an indelible impression. The exclusivity of its release, combined with its mysterious and luxurious aura, has made it a highly coveted fragrance among those who seek rare and discontinued perfumes. Its disappearance from circulation only adds to its mystique, elevating it beyond a mere fragrance to a true collector’s hidden gem—a treasure, indeed, for those fortunate enough to possess it.

Fragrance Composition:

My Treasure by Mary McFadden is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women with woody and musky undertones.

• Top notes: watermelon, peach, fruits
• Middle notes: tuberose, white orchid, ylang-ylang, rosewood
• Base notes: musk, woods

Scent Profile:

The first impression of My Treasure is like stepping into a sunlit orchard at the peak of summer, where the air is heavy with the scent of ripe, sun-warmed fruit. The watermelon unfolds first—its crisp, dewy aroma is instantly refreshing, evoking the sensation of biting into a perfectly chilled slice, its juice running down your fingers. Unlike artificial watermelon notes that can lean candy-like, this one carries the subtle, aqueous sweetness of the real fruit, a fleeting whisper of coolness before the warmth of the peach emerges. Peach, with its velvety skin and syrupy nectar, brings a luscious, golden richness, a balance of honeyed depth and fresh, fuzzy brightness. The interplay between the two is effortless—where watermelon offers clarity, peach adds body. Supporting them is a medley of unnamed fruits, perhaps hints of ripe pear or softly tart berries, enhancing the juicy vibrance of the opening.

As the fruit softens, the fragrance transitions into an opulent floral heart. The tuberose is immediately present, unfolding in creamy, almost narcotic waves. Its hypnotic depth is rich and slightly buttery, blending seamlessly with the ethereal white orchid, which introduces a delicately floral, almost airy quality—like a silk veil over the lush tuberose. The ylang-ylang, sourced from tropical islands where its golden petals are hand-harvested at dawn, drapes the composition in an exotic, subtly banana-tinged warmth. Unlike lighter florals, it carries a rich, balsamic undertone, adding a sensual depth to the bouquet. Contrasting this lushness is rosewood, a rare and precious note that introduces a polished, slightly spicy woodiness. Originating from South America, rosewood is known for its delicate floral-woody balance, lending the perfume a refined sophistication while keeping the florals from becoming overwhelming.

As the scent settles into its final stage, it becomes warmer, closer to the skin, an intimate whisper of musk and woods. The musk is soft, almost powdery, like the lingering warmth of bare skin after a day in the sun. It enhances the floralcy, giving the fragrance a sensual, enveloping quality without overpowering. The woods, likely a blend of sandalwood and other creamy, resinous elements, provide a smooth, grounding foundation, tempering the brightness of the fruits and florals with a soft, elegant finish.

Throughout the journey, natural ingredients and aroma chemicals work in harmony. Synthetic musks, for instance, enhance the natural musk’s longevity and silkiness, ensuring the scent lingers like a second skin. The fruity top notes, often fleeting in nature, are subtly reinforced by aroma molecules designed to extend their freshness without turning them artificial. This interplay of naturals and synthetics makes My Treasure feel both luminous and enduring, a scent that shifts with the wearer's movements, revealing its many facets over time.

It is a fragrance that feels effortlessly feminine, joyful, and sensual—a balance of sheer brightness and soft warmth, like the memory of golden afternoons and whispered promises. A treasure indeed.