Mary Chess Perfumes

Mary Chess, a perfume company founded in New York City by Grace Mary Chess Robinson in 1932, quickly rose to prominence with its elegant fragrances. Despite starting as a small shop on Park Avenue in 1933, Mary Chess soon expanded into a multi-million-dollar enterprise under the leadership of Mrs. Avery (Grace Chess) Robinson. The brand gained recognition for its high-quality and luxurious perfumes, capturing the essence of sophistication and refinement.

Grace Mary Chess Robinson, also known as Mrs. Avery Robinson, played a pivotal role in establishing Mary Chess as a reputable perfume brand. Her dedication to creating exquisite fragrances and her keen business acumen propelled the company to success.

Although Grace Chess Robinson passed away in 1964, her legacy lived on through the enduring reputation of Mary Chess perfumes. The brand continued to flourish even after her death, maintaining its status as a beloved name in the world of fragrance.

Beginning:

Grace Mary Chess Robinson's journey into the world of perfumery reflects her passion for creating beautiful fragrances and her commitment to quality craftsmanship. Inspired by her disappointment with the lackluster aroma of a bottle of toilet water, she embarked on a mission to create perfumes that captivated the senses and delighted the soul.

Starting in New York City in 1932, Grace Mary Chess Robinson began crafting perfumes using natural ingredients, drawing upon her skills as an avid gardener and her innate sense of creativity. Her first creation, White Lilac, set the stage for the exquisite floral scents that would become synonymous with the Mary Chess brand.

Driven by a dedication to excellence and a commitment to using the finest ingredients, Mary Chess perfumes quickly gained popularity through repeat business and word-of-mouth advertising. As demand for her fragrances grew, the enterprise expanded, moving out of its cramped quarters in 1933 to accommodate the production of a wider range of floral-scented perfumes.

Grace Mary Chess Robinson's association with Taylor of London, a long-established fragrance firm, further underscores her expertise and influence in the perfume industry. Through her company, Mary Chess, she offered a diverse range of products, including perfumes, cosmetics, and toiletries.

One of the notable contributions of Mary Chess to the fragrance market was the introduction of Roman bath oils in the 1930s. These oils, known for their luxurious and aromatic qualities, became iconic products associated with the Mary Chess brand. They exemplified the commitment to quality and innovation that defined Grace Mary Chess Robinson's approach to perfumery and beauty products.

By leveraging her partnership with Taylor of London and her own entrepreneurial vision, Grace Mary Chess Robinson solidified Mary Chess's reputation as a leading name in the perfume industry. Her dedication to creating exceptional fragrances and beauty products left a lasting impact on the world of perfumery, earning her recognition as a pioneering figure in the field.

By 1934, the Mary Chess name had become synonymous with fine women's perfume, recognized for its exceptional quality and enchanting fragrances. Grace Mary Chess Robinson's vision and passion had transformed her small perfume-making venture into a beloved brand cherished by women across the country. Her legacy as a pioneer in the perfume industry lives on through the enduring reputation of Mary Chess perfumes.

Chess Pieces:

Grace Mary Chess Robinson's introduction of "Chess Pieces" in 1938 marked a significant milestone for her perfume business, further establishing Mary Chess as a prominent and innovative perfumery. The creation of these figural perfume bottles, shaped like chess pieces, demonstrated her creative flair and entrepreneurial spirit, as well as her clever play on her own name.

The Chess Pieces perfume sets were not only luxurious and elegant but also represented a unique and thoughtful gift option. Despite their premium price, they quickly gained popularity and became sought-after items, especially among perfume enthusiasts and collectors. The timeless appeal of chess, coupled with the exquisite craftsmanship of the glass bottles and pressed figural stoppers, made these sets highly desirable.

The success of the Chess Pieces perfume sets extended well into the 1960s, showcasing Grace Mary Chess Robinson's enduring legacy as a visionary perfumer and businesswoman. Her ability to blend creativity, quality, and innovation resulted in products that captivated consumers and solidified Mary Chess's reputation as a leading name in the perfume industry.

American Glass Packer, 1939:

"Top honors went to the Mary Chess Cosmetics packages. One feature of these was the "exquisite design of the perfume bottles which were appropriately copied from a 17th century chess set." Swindell Brothers, Inc., supplied the bottles."

The recognition received by Mary Chess Cosmetics packages in 1939, as reported by the American Glass Packer, highlights the brand's commitment to excellence and innovation in packaging design. One notable feature of the Mary Chess Cosmetics packages was the exquisite design of the perfume bottles, which were inspired by a 17th-century chess set.

The decision to draw inspiration from a 17th-century chess set for the design of the perfume bottles speaks to Mary Chess's dedication to creating products that exude sophistication and elegance. By incorporating elements of timeless design into their packaging, Mary Chess sought to elevate the overall aesthetic appeal of their products and enhance the consumer experience.

Swindell Brothers, Inc. played a crucial role in supplying the bottles for Mary Chess Cosmetics packages, ensuring that the design vision was executed with precision and attention to detail. The collaboration between Mary Chess and Swindell Brothers, Inc. resulted in the creation of perfume bottles that were not only visually stunning but also reflected the brand's dedication to quality and craftsmanship.

The collaboration with the Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, New Jersey, from 1946 to 1948, further enhanced the quality and craftsmanship of the Chess Pieces perfume bottles. Wheaton Glass Company's expertise in glassmaking and figural design ensured that each bottle was a work of art, worthy of the Mary Chess brand.

Overall, the recognition received by Mary Chess Cosmetics packages for their exquisite design underscores the brand's position as a leader in the beauty and cosmetics industry. By combining elements of historical inspiration with modern innovation, Mary Chess set a standard for packaging design that continues to be admired and celebrated to this day.

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Mary Chess: Beautiful glass perfume bottles shaped like the king and queen on a chessboard are filled with any one of her many perfumes.; $18 a set. Tapestry, Carnation, and White Lilac (nobody does it better) are still on her list. Perfumes, colognes, toilet waters, and friction rubs appear in sandalwood and Oriental blends. Balls of filigree silver gilt containing perfume that will last for months; 412.50. Bracelet with little scented balls to match; $20. Gleaming gilt boxes waiting to be filled with combinations of the articles you like - frictions, toilet waters, bath mitts, sachets, or whatever; $3 and up."

The excerpt from The New Yorker in 1939 provides a glimpse into the offerings of Mary Chess perfumes and beauty products during that time, highlighting the brand's commitment to luxury, elegance, and innovation.

The mention of beautiful glass perfume bottles shaped like the king and queen on a chessboard reflects the introduction of the "Chess Pieces" perfume sets, which became iconic products for Mary Chess. Priced at $18 a set, these figurative bottles were filled with a selection of the brand's perfumes, offering consumers a unique and exquisite gift option.

The article also mentions some of Mary Chess's popular perfume fragrances, including Tapestry, Carnation, and White Lilac, which were renowned for their exceptional quality and captivating scents. These timeless classics remained part of Mary Chess's product lineup, demonstrating their enduring popularity and appeal.

In addition to perfumes, Mary Chess offered a variety of beauty products, including colognes, toilet waters, and friction rubs, available in sandalwood and Oriental blends. The brand also offered innovative products such as balls of filigree silver gilt containing long-lasting perfume, scented bracelets, and gleaming gilt boxes filled with customizable combinations of beauty items.

That being said, the excerpt showcases Mary Chess's dedication to providing luxurious and indulgent beauty products that catered to the tastes and preferences of discerning consumers. The brand's attention to detail, craftsmanship, and quality made it a trusted name in the perfume industry during the 1930s and beyond.

Significant Perfumes:

Tapestry:

Launched in 1934, it is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It is described as "a delicately mixed floral bouquet of rose, jasmine, muguet and orange blends with subtle woodsy notes of patchouli and undertones of musk and moss."

• Top notes: orange, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley
• Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss, tonka bean, amber, musk

The introduction of Tapestry by Mary Chess in 1934 represented a significant addition to the brand's collection of exquisite perfumes. Tapestry, characterized as an aldehydic floral chypre perfume, offered a sophisticated and multi-faceted fragrance experience that captivated the senses.

Tapestry unfolds as a delicately mixed floral bouquet, blending various floral notes with aldehydes to create a sense of elegance and refinement. Aldehydes are synthetic compounds that add a sparkling and effervescent quality to the fragrance, contributing to its brightness and allure.

In addition to the floral bouquet, Tapestry is enriched with subtle woodsy notes that add depth and complexity to the scent profile. These woodsy undertones provide a warm and earthy foundation, complementing the floral elements and enhancing the overall composition of the perfume.

Furthermore, Tapestry features undertones of moss, which contribute to its chypre character. Chypre fragrances are known for their sophisticated blend of citrus, floral, and woody notes, often enriched with earthy and mossy undertones. In Tapestry, the mossy undertones add a touch of mystery and intrigue, further elevating the fragrance's complexity and depth.

Yram:

Launched in 1934, it is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. It is described as "a true, rich oriental with a green, citrusy top note with a floral bouquet of geranium, herbs, mixed with the tang of spices and the exotic tones of patchouli, mosses, musk and sandalwood."

• Top notes: citrus, orange blossom
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, geranium, herbs, spices
• Base notes: musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, oakmoss, vanilla, labdanum, tonka bean

The launch of Yram by Mary Chess in 1934 introduced a captivating and exotic fragrance that added depth and allure to the brand's perfume collection. Yram, described as a rich oriental floral perfume, offered a unique olfactory experience that resonated with perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.

Yram unfolds as a rich and complex bouquet of floral notes, infused with the tang of spices to create a sense of warmth and exoticism. The floral elements in Yram are likely a blend of various floral essences, contributing to the perfume's opulent and luxurious character.

In addition to the floral bouquet, Yram features exotic tones of patchouli and sandalwood, which add depth, richness, and complexity to the fragrance. Patchouli, with its earthy and woody aroma, lends a sense of warmth and sensuality to Yram, while sandalwood adds a creamy and velvety texture, enhancing its overall allure.

The inclusion of spices further enriches the fragrance, adding a touch of vibrancy and intrigue. Spices, such as cinnamon, clove, or nutmeg, can evoke a sense of warmth and exoticism, complementing the floral and woody notes in Yram and creating a harmonious blend of aromas.

Strategy:

Launched in 1942, it is classified as an aldehydic chypre fragrance for women. It was described as "mossy, woodsy notes buoyantly blended with the fresh green undertones of vetiver." Pungent and spicy.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, galbanum, carnation
• Base notes: vetiver, labdanum, amber, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk

The launch of Strategy by Mary Chess in 1942 introduced a unique and evocative fragrance that captured the essence of nature with an added twist of sophistication. Described as an "aldehydic, spicy, pungent forest blend perfume," Strategy aimed to transport wearers to the heart of a dense forest, enveloping them in its rich and captivating aroma.

The scent profile of Strategy features a complex blend of aldehydes, spices, and woody notes, creating a multi-dimensional olfactory experience. The aldehydes add a sparkling and effervescent quality to the fragrance, while the spices contribute warmth and vibrancy, infusing Strategy with an alluring and dynamic character.

At the heart of Strategy are the pungent forest notes, evoking the raw and untamed beauty of a wooded landscape. These notes likely include mossy and woodsy accords, which lend a sense of depth and richness to the fragrance. Additionally, the fresh, green undertones of vetiver add a crisp and invigorating quality, balancing the composition and enhancing its overall complexity.

The juxtaposition of aldehydic, spicy, and woody elements in Strategy creates a fragrance that is both bold and sophisticated, offering a modern interpretation of the classic forest scent. Its buoyant and vibrant character makes it a captivating choice for those who seek fragrances that exude confidence and allure.

Strategy by Mary Chess embodies a strategic blend of aromas, combining the timeless appeal of nature with a contemporary twist. Its innovative and dynamic scent profile sets it apart as a standout fragrance in the Mary Chess perfume collection, appealing to those who appreciate complexity and sophistication in their fragrance choices.

Woods-At-Night:

The introduction of Woods-at-Night by Mary Chess in 1936 offered perfume enthusiasts a unique olfactory experience inspired by the essence of a forest at night. This fragrance, described as a "pungent forest odor perfume," aimed to capture the mysterious and evocative scent of a wooded landscape after dark.

Woods-at-Night unfolds with an intriguing blend of woody and earthy notes, evoking the dense and aromatic atmosphere of a forest at nighttime. The fragrance likely incorporates essences such as cedarwood, pine, oakmoss, and vetiver, which contribute to its rich and robust character.

The "pungent" quality of Woods-at-Night suggests an intense and potent aroma, reminiscent of the natural scents found in a forest environment. This could include resinous and balsamic notes, as well as hints of damp earth and moss, creating a sensory experience that transports the wearer to the heart of the forest under the cover of darkness.

Woods-at-Night by Mary Chess offered a departure from traditional floral or oriental fragrances, embracing the raw and untamed beauty of nature. Its bold and evocative scent profile appealed to those seeking a fragrance that captured the essence of the outdoors, making it a distinctive and memorable addition to the Mary Chess perfume collection.

Elizabethan:

The launch of Elizabethan Perfume by Mary Chess in 1937 introduced a fragrance inspired by the rich history and natural beauty of the Elizabethan era. Described as a "woody-mossy-leafy perfume," Elizabethan Perfume aimed to capture the essence of the lush greenery and wooded landscapes characteristic of the Elizabethan countryside.

The scent profile of Elizabethan Perfume likely features a harmonious blend of woody, mossy, and leafy notes, evoking the verdant and enchanting ambiance of an Elizabethan garden or forest. These notes may include essences such as oakmoss, vetiver, cedarwood, and various green accords, which combine to create a multi-dimensional and evocative fragrance experience.

The woody elements in Elizabethan Perfume contribute depth and warmth to the scent, while the mossy and leafy notes add a sense of freshness and vitality. Together, these accords create a rich olfactory tapestry that transports the wearer to a bygone era of elegance and natural beauty.

Elizabethan Perfume by Mary Chess embodies the timeless allure and romanticism of the Elizabethan period, offering a fragrance that celebrates the splendor of nature and the enchantment of history. Its evocative scent profile and nostalgic charm make it a cherished addition to the Mary Chess perfume collection, appealing to those who appreciate classic and sophisticated fragrances inspired by the past.

Chess for Men:

The release of Chess for Men by Mary Chess in 1977 marked a significant addition to the brand's fragrance offerings, introducing a sophisticated and alluring scent tailored specifically for men. Chess for Men embodied a timeless and refined fragrance experience, blending rich wood tones, spices, and other complementary elements to create a captivating aroma.

At the forefront of Chess for Men are the rich and rare wood tones, which provide depth and warmth to the fragrance. These woodsy notes likely include essences such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and perhaps vetiver, imparting a sense of masculinity and sophistication.

Complementing the woodsy accord are spices, adding vibrancy and complexity to the fragrance. These spices may include hints of cinnamon, nutmeg, or clove, infusing Chess for Men with a subtle yet enticing warmth.

Undertones of oakmoss further enrich the scent profile, contributing a touch of earthiness and depth. Oakmoss is a classic ingredient in men's fragrances, known for its grounding and masculine qualities.

A sprinkling of floral blend, while subtle, adds a soft and nuanced dimension to the fragrance, balancing the richness of the wood tones and spices. Light citrus notes provide a refreshing and invigorating top layer, adding brightness and vitality to the overall composition.

Lastly, a hint of patchouli rounds out the fragrance, lending a touch of earthy sweetness and depth.

Chess for Men by Mary Chess is a sophisticated and versatile fragrance that embodies masculinity, refinement, and timeless elegance. Its well-balanced blend of wood tones, spices, and other complementary notes creates a captivating aroma that is both classic and modern, making it a cherished choice among discerning men.

Souvenir d'Un Soir:

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, musk, amber, sandalwood

The intricately designed bottle of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" pays homage to the majestic Pulitzer Fountain, a prominent landmark located in New York City's Central Park. The fountain features a depiction of "Pomona," the Roman goddess of abundance, representing the beauty of nature and the bounty of the harvest. Positioned in front of the Plaza Hotel and adjacent to Bergdorf Goodman department store, the fountain stands as a symbol of luxury and elegance in the heart of Manhattan.

Bergdorf Goodman, renowned for its exclusive offerings of high-end fashion and luxury goods, served as the exclusive retailer of Mary Chess fragrances, further enhancing the prestige of the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation. The launch of this fragrance was celebrated with an event at the Plaza Hotel, showcasing the exquisite bottle design and captivating scent to discerning clientele.

Crafted in France, the figural bottles of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" exemplify exceptional artistry and attention to detail. Available in two sizes—4 3/4" tall for the larger version and 3 1/2" tall for the smaller version—these bottles captured the essence of the Pulitzer Fountain's grandeur and elegance. Additionally, non-figural bottles were produced by Wheaton, maintaining the fragrance's allure and sophistication.

"May the fountain at the plaza - one of New York's most beautiful landmarks bring back to you  -  The Memory of an Evening - Souvenir d'un Soir" is printed on the back of the hangtag.  The sentiment expressed on the back of the hangtag of "Souvenir d'un Soir" adds a poetic and nostalgic touch to the fragrance presentation. The message, "May the fountain at the plaza—one of New York's most beautiful landmarks—bring back to you The Memory of an Evening—Souvenir d'un Soir," conjures images of romantic evenings spent amidst the elegance and grandeur of New York City.

Overall, the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation exemplifies the fusion of art, luxury, and fragrance, offering a captivating olfactory experience paired with an exquisite bottle design inspired by one of New York City's most iconic landmarks.

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"MARY CHESS- New from France... SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR! A sparkling, modern perfume made exclusively for Mary Chess. French bottle is an exquisite replica of the Plaza Fountain."

The New Yorker, Vol 33,1956

"SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR- A sparkling perfume for day and evening. Exquisite French bottle—a replica of the famous Saint-Gaudens fountain in New York's Plaza. 2 ozs. $45, 1/2 oz. $10, purse Flacon, $5. Aerosol Nuages de Parfum, $5. All plus tax." 

The descriptions of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" from Harper's Bazaar and The New Yorker in 1956 highlight the fragrance's debut as a luxurious and captivating addition to Mary Chess's perfume collection. The scent, hailed as "sparkling" and "modern," was exclusively crafted for Mary Chess, adding to the allure and exclusivity of the brand's offerings. 

The pricing information provided in The New Yorker further positions "Souvenir d'Un Soir" as a luxury item, with options ranging from 1/2 oz. bottles to larger 2 oz. sizes, as well as purse flacons and aerosol nuages de parfum. These offerings cater to different preferences and occasions, allowing consumers to experience the enchanting fragrance in various formats.

Heliotrope: 

The introduction of Heliotrope by Mary Chess in 1932 was a lovely addition to the brand's line of exquisite perfumes. Heliotrope, a true floral fragrance capturing the essence of the heliotrope flower, was crafted with meticulous attention to detail and a blend of high-quality ingredients.

The scent profile of Heliotrope is described as crisp and long-lasting, featuring the distinctive aroma of delicate heliotrope flowers fused with notes of bergamot, ylang-ylang, and sweet vanilla notes. A fresh top note of bergamot adds a citrusy and refreshing touch to the fragrance, while ylang-ylang contributes a floral sweetness and depth. The inclusion of vanilla lends a warm and comforting quality to the scent, enhancing its overall allure and sophistication.

Tuberose:

The introduction of Tuberose by Mary Chess in 1937 marked the addition of a floral classic to the brand's esteemed perfume collection. Tuberose, described as a "floral classic," offered a luxurious and captivating fragrance experience that celebrated the beauty and allure of white flowers.

Tuberose unfolds with a delicate and intoxicating blend of precious white jasmine, gardenia, tuberose essential oil with the sweet ylang ylang flower. These floral essences intertwine to create a rich and opulent bouquet, exuding elegance, femininity, and sophistication.

White jasmine, known for its sweet and alluring aroma, adds a touch of sensuality and romance to the fragrance, while gardenia contributes a creamy and tropical nuance, enhancing its overall richness and depth. The essential oil of tuberose, prized for its intense and heady scent, serves as the focal point of the fragrance, infusing Tuberose with its distinctive floralcy and charm.

The combination of these floral notes results in a fragrance that is both timeless and captivating, evoking images of blooming gardens and romantic evenings. Tuberose by Mary Chess embodies the essence of classic femininity and elegance, making it a cherished choice among perfume enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.

Overall, Tuberose stands as a testament to Mary Chess's commitment to creating exquisite and sophisticated fragrances that capture the beauty and essence of nature. Its timeless appeal and enchanting scent profile make it a beloved addition to the Mary Chess perfume collection, appealing to those who seek elegance and refinement in their fragrance choices.

White Lilac:

Fresh white lilacs are enhanced by a leafy green top note and soft undertones of cloves and honey.

Gardenia:

Jasmine dominates a blend of orange, rose and ylang ylang blossoms in a light, sweet gardenia scent with touches of spice and musk.

Carnation:

A green top note introduces spicy carnation scent with undertones of cloves and vanilla.

Creating for Others:

The creation of the Lilac perfume for the B. Altman department store in 1931 represents a significant milestone in the history of the Mary Chess Company. Lilac, known for its delicate and enchanting scent, quickly became a beloved fragrance among consumers, further solidifying Mary Chess's reputation as a leading perfumery.

Partnering with prestigious department stores like B. Altman allowed Mary Chess to expand its reach and introduce its exquisite perfumes to a broader audience. The collaboration with B. Altman provided an opportunity for Mary Chess to showcase its commitment to quality craftsmanship and innovation in fragrance creation.

The launch of Lilac perfume at B. Altman likely garnered attention and acclaim, drawing customers who appreciated the beauty and allure of the fragrance. Lilac's popularity may have contributed to the success of the Mary Chess brand and its continued growth in the perfume industry.

Overall, the creation of Lilac perfume for B. Altman in 1931 highlights Mary Chess's ability to create timeless and captivating fragrances that resonate with consumers, further establishing the brand as a trusted name in the world of perfumery.

Fate of the Mary Chess Company:

The acquisition of the Mary Chess company by The Fine Fragrances and Cosmetic Group in 1991 marked a significant chapter in the brand's history. This acquisition likely provided new opportunities for Mary Chess to expand its reach and offerings under the umbrella of a larger corporation.

Joining forces with The Fine Fragrances and Cosmetic Group, based in London, may have brought about changes in the management, distribution, and marketing strategies of Mary Chess products. It could have also facilitated access to new markets and resources, enabling the brand to continue its legacy of creating exquisite perfumes and beauty products.

While specific details about the impact of the acquisition on Mary Chess's operations and product lines are not readily available, such a partnership would likely have been viewed as a positive development, ensuring the brand's longevity and continued relevance in the ever-evolving beauty industry.

Background:

Grace Mary Chess's background and personal interests shed light on the influences and passions that contributed to the founding and success of the Mary Chess Company.

Born in Louisville, Kentucky, to William E. Chess, a local cordage mill owner, Grace Mary Chess married Avery Robinson in 1907. Avery, also from Louisville, was the son of another mill owner and had worked for Grace's father after graduating from MIT. In 1920, the couple moved to London, where Avery took on the role of treasurer to the Royal Philharmonic Society.

While in London, Grace Mary Chess gained recognition for her talent in sculpting metal flowers, which she sold to esteemed clients such as the Queen Mother. This entrepreneurial venture likely honed her artistic sensibilities and business acumen, laying the foundation for her future endeavors in the perfume industry.

In 1932, Grace Mary Chess founded the Mary Chess Company, drawing upon her creativity and entrepreneurial spirit to create exquisite perfumes and beauty products. Her keen eye for beauty extended beyond fragrance creation, as she also had a passion for collecting antique scent bottles. Some of the most exquisite bottles in her collection featured hinged tops made of sterling silver, which remain highly sought after by collectors today.

Additionally, Grace Mary Chess's commitment to nurturing her daughter's talents is evident in her decision to send Carley to study with Nadia Boulanger, a renowned composer and music teacher. Although Carley ultimately chose not to pursue a musical career and instead became a writer of children's books, Grace Mary Chess's support and encouragement exemplify her dedication to fostering creativity and artistic expression in her family.

Altogether, Grace Mary Chess's diverse interests, entrepreneurial spirit, and dedication to craftsmanship and beauty laid the groundwork for the Mary Chess Company's success and enduring legacy in the perfume industry.

Scribner's Commentator - Volume 5 - Page 30, 1939:

"Smelling salts are returning to favor" is the word from New York's more exclusive perfumers. Mary Chess, the Park Avenue creator of individual scents, has been selling an astonishing number of bottles of smelling salts and muff bottles in recent months. (Muff bottles, as anyone's grandmother will tell you, are slender little bottles with perforated caps on each end; one half of the bottle is filled with lavender to scent up the muff, while the other half is filled with smelling salts.)"

The perfumes of Mary Chess:

• 1932 White Lilac
• 1932 Rose
• 1932 Heliotrope 
• 1932 Gardenia 
• 1932 Desert Verbena/Verbena
• 1933 Chessmen 
• 1934 Tapestry 
• 1934 Yram  
• 1934 1001
• 1935 Autere, relaunched in 1980
• 1935 Floral Odeurs (a line)
• 1935 Carnation
• 1935 Violet-Orris
• 1935 Lily of the Valley
• 1935 Violet
• 1935 Bay
• 1935 Juniper
• 1935 Sandalwood/Sandal
• 1935 Jasmin/Jasmine
• 1935 Mimosa
• 1935 Lavender
• 1935 Rose-Geranium
• 1936 Woods-at-Night
• 1937 Cream Perfume
• 1937 Elizabethan Perfume
• 1937 Tuberose  
• 1938 Chess piece perfume bottles introduced: roi, reine, cavalier, fou, tour
• 1940 Scented Lacquer (perfumed paint for furniture)
• 1940 The King of Chessmen
• 1940 Good News for Men
• 1940 Vetiver
• 1940 Green Walnut for Men
• 1942 Strategy
• 1946 Song (a floral perfume)
• 1949 Chivalry
• 1953 Golden Court, chessboard presentation
• 1956 Souvenir d'un Soir
• 1958 Rose Geranium
• 1959 Black Knight
• 1959 White Knight
• 1960 Tuilleries
• 1960 Lazy Mary presentation
• 1966 Perfume Burner (perfume lamp)
• 1977 Chess for Men  
• 1978 Chess d’Or
• Tea Rose
• Our English Rose
• Don’t Tell

  

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1939:

"Mary Chess has designed an attractive three drawer package of assorted Roman Bath vials for Christmas selling. It comes in the regular Mary Chess ivory and brown coloring, or in a silver or gilt package for the holidays, and contains 21 vials of the most popular Mary Chess floral fragrances and blends."

Arts and Decoration, 1940:

"Mary Chess sponsors violet— a sweet true odor to go with your tiny flower turban or to complement the violet accessories of your new spring suit. They have sachet, perfume and toilet water, the last-named particularly good since its delicate."

Glass Packer, 1940:

"Scented Lacquer. This original product of Mary Chess Inc., New York, is painted inside drawers, cupboards, linen closets; or, under furniture, to perfume a room. Various scents are available, including Pine or Leather for the wan of the house."

For Easter 1941, she introduced the "Closet Box", a gift box containing her famous scented lacquer, a fragrant paste sachet which you would paint the inside bureau drawers and closets or daub under tables and chairs (the scent would last for about a year) and that it is was a simple matter to wash off the lacquer if you tire of the fragrance, a pair of satin corner sachets (for dress hangers or hat stands), and these came in wonderful scents: Heliotrope, White Lilac, Gardenia, Carnation, Tapestry or Violet. The set was offered for $5.75.

The New Yorker - Volume 21, Issue 2, 1945:

"1001 Perfume By Mary Chess "Where there's a Princess, there must be a France." "1001" Perfume— reflecting the charm and elegance of Columbia's new Technicolor picture, "A Thousand and One Nights." Sapphires and diamonds.."

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, Aug 29, 1946:

"This is the story of Mary Chess, a business started in a kitchen, whose products were sold without a salesman, a business built on the firm foundation of loving Care.. If you ever visit the Mary Chess salon at 324 Park avenue, New York, you will notice two lovely flower arrangements. These are the work of Mrs. Avery Robinson, the original Mary chess. And in the Queen’s Dolls’ House in London are to be found some more of these exquisite flowers, this time Lilliputian in size. For when the English people conceived the idea of making the Doll’s House for Queen Mary as an expression of their love, Mrs. Robinson was one of the two Americans asked to contribute.   

Like the Queen of Hearts who made her own tarts Mary Chess cooked up her first batch of cream in her own kitchen with the help of her cook. Since that day back in 1932, her establishment has come a long way. Today her cosmetics are made in a modern laboratory where 150 people are employed. 

Mary Chess just happened. It was Mrs. Robinson’s interest in the beauties of Rome and Greece that led to her putting her finger in the cosmetic pie. There was no attempt to market the first efforts. The little jars were sold to friends who rapidly spread the word about. Being pushed, as it were, into business, Mrs. Robinson decided she must do something about it and the first step was to find an office. (For the many feet finding their way to her door were hard on her carpets.) So she opened up in an apartment off Park avenue and when this became too crowded moved to 128 East Sixty-Sixth street. Here she stayed until 1936 when she moved to the present location.   

The research that led to the establishment of Mary Chess was first responsible for her being the first cosmetic house to make Roman bath oil and a complete line of bath products. One of these , the fragrant sachet, is a favorite of Ethel Barrymore. And her frequent large orders are a mystery to all. “She must eat it.,” they say. “no one could possibly use as much as she orders every two months.” 

Another of Mary Chess’ originals in the scented lacquer, really not a lacque  at all. It’s a paste sachet for scenting dressing table drawers, closets or rooms. And a table painted with this lacquer still retains the scent after four years.  

The charming chess piece perfume bottles are collector’s items and no chess collection is complete without them. They tell the store at Mary Chess of the letter from a professor who explained he was ,king a collection of chess sets. And being a teacher at a small college he knew he would never be able to afford to buy the pieces. Could they please send him any empty bottles they had around? Needless to add, his collection now contains these lovely little glass bottles."

Arts and Decoration, 1948:

"Mary Chess is featuring a frippery in turquoise satin that is a pillow topped by a straw flower bouquet and permeated with Strategy sachet. You put it in the drawer with your underthings remain fragrant and sweet-scented."

How to Keep House, 1949:

"Line dressing-table drawers with fitted sachet pads or use the scented flannel drawer pads made by Mary Chess."

The British Chess Magazine, 1950:

“There is in New York, a perfume shop called “Mary Chess” which dispenses its perfumes in bottles shaped like the various chess pieces. Anything can be bought singly from pawn to King, or one half a chess set. For 8 pawns, 2 Bishops, 2 Knights and King and Queen form one assortment. A pawn costs $1.75 and a King is $25; whilst the sixteen pieces in assorted fragrances are $100. This seems rather an expensive method of assembling a chess set- but everyone to his scent!”

Woman's Home Companion, 1950:

"Mary Chess' gilded filigree Perfume Ball Pin with solid perfume in White Lilac, Tapestry, Strategy, Carnation, Gardenia and Yram. $18.00. In Song $21.50."

 

 

Holiday, 1960:

"Chest of 24 vials of Roman Bath Oils, in 6 different fragrances (4 vials of each). $22."

The New Yorker, 1963:

"MARY CHESS Cream Perfume Compacts New Cream Perfumes- cached in golden compacts to carry or wear on a chain. Enchantingly feminine Mary Chess exclusives . . . in White Lilac, Tapestry, Strategy and Yram. "

House and Garden, 1970:

"LILACS can go on breeding "memory and desire" in Mary Chess's White Lilacs ($6 for a quarter of an ounce)....Mary Chess has a famous Carnation that smells like sugar and spice ($6 for a quarter of an ounce)....Tuberoses are not roses but small creamy -white flowers of the lily family  with an intense, passionate fragrance. Not everyone can wear them, but when you can, wow..Tuberose by Mary Chess ($10 for half an ounce)."

Some info on Mary Chess was found on wikipedia.

Mary Chess Perfume Burner, 1966, photo from ebay seller waytopioneer12

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