Blondeau et Cie & Vinolia

Blondeau et Cie and the Legacy of "Vinolia": A History of Luxury Toiletries and Perfumes

Blondeau et Cie was a distinguished Anglo-French company established around 1885 by Dr. Eggleston Burrows and James Hill Hartridge. Originally centered on the manufacture of high-quality soaps, the firm quickly expanded its offerings to include luxurious perfumes and a refined line of toiletries marketed under the "Vinolia" name. Headquartered at Lever House on Victoria Embankment in London, Blondeau et Cie grew to become a respected name in the world of personal care. The "Vinolia" brand remained in production until approximately 1930, enjoying a reputation synonymous with elegance and quality throughout its lifespan.

Launched in 1888, the "Vinolia" brand was initially known for its premium soaps formulated for sensitive skin. These products rapidly gained favor among discerning consumers due to their exceptional quality, earning a place in the growing market for luxury toiletries. By 1892, the brand had expanded to include a comprehensive range of perfumes, skincare preparations, and toilet requisites, all produced and distributed under the Blondeau et Cie umbrella. The commitment to excellence in both product formulation and presentation solidified Vinolia’s standing in both domestic and international markets.

In 1898, the company underwent a structural reorganization for financial and familial considerations. It was converted into a private company and renamed Vinolia Company Limited, with a nominal capital of £100,000. Just one year later, in 1899, the company transitioned once again—this time becoming a public company. This shift allowed the firm to further scale its operations and meet increasing demand at home and abroad, reflecting the brand’s expanding prestige and global reach.

Vinolia's physical presence reflected its ambitions. The company’s headquarters were located at 37–38 Upper Thames Street in London, supported by factories in Kentish Town and other parts of the city. In Paris, Vinolia maintained an address at 5 Rue de la Paix, one of the most exclusive and fashionable areas, signaling its place among the elite of luxury goods. In the United States, operations were initially situated at 96 Fulton Street, New York, under the direction of F.J.E. Welch. By 1891, the company had moved to more extensive facilities at 73–77 Watts Street, further reinforcing its growing influence in the American market.

The strength of the Vinolia brand lay in its unwavering focus on quality, innovation, and sophisticated presentation. Its product range was extensive and carefully curated. Vinolia’s toilet soaps were superfatted, free of harsh ingredients, and celebrated for their mildness and gentle effects on the skin. Among its most notable varieties were "Vestal," a richly perfumed soap presented in gold-embossed calfskin boxes, and "Otto," which contained the finest otto of roses.

The perfume line, introduced by 1893, included three elegant scents—"Marequil," "Jequilla," and "Vinolia Bouquet." Each was offered in distinctive, artistically designed bottles, reflecting the company’s aesthetic sensibilities. Skincare items such as "Vinolia Emollient Cream" were reputed for their soothing properties, especially in treating eczema and insect bites. Other notable preparations included "Lait Vinolia" and "Vinolia Pomade," both packaged in decorative Staffordshire containers that enhanced their appeal as premium products.

One of the most innovative items in the Vinolia catalogue was its dentifrice. Available in three variants, the Vinolia Dentifrice was soap-free, antiseptic, and preservative in nature—housed in fine boxed or cut-glass containers. Shaving essentials were another key part of the product line. These included soaps and foams known for their rich, non-irritating lather, available in porcelain dishes or collapsible tubes. Additional offerings such as dusting powders, brilliantines, lip salves, and eau de cologne rounded out a collection that exemplified both sophistication and functionality. Every item in the range underscored Vinolia’s devotion to luxury, hygiene, and artistic packaging.

By the early 20th century, Vinolia had firmly established itself as a brand of distinction. In 1900, the company received a Royal Warrant, officially recognized as soap makers to Queen Victoria. This prestigious endorsement not only affirmed the superior quality of Vinolia’s offerings but also elevated the brand's cachet among upper-class consumers in Britain and abroad.

Vinolia's renown extended beyond the royal court. In 1912, the brand gained a unique place in cultural history when its products were selected for use aboard the RMS Titanic. First-class passengers were supplied with Vinolia toiletries, a testament to the brand's association with luxury, comfort, and refinement at the highest levels of society. This historic connection has helped preserve the Vinolia name in public memory long after the brand ceased production.

Blondeau et Cie also distinguished itself through progressive labor practices. Employees were granted two weeks of paid vacation each year—an uncommon benefit at the time. The company also organized a Mutual Sick Club, providing workers with financial support during illness. These forward-thinking policies contributed to a positive corporate image and reflected a commitment to social responsibility that was notably ahead of its era.

The next major chapter in Vinolia’s story came on October 1, 1906, when Blondeau et Cie and its associated brands were acquired by Lever Brothers, one of the leading names in global soap production. This acquisition marked a strategic expansion for Lever Brothers, bringing the prestigious Vinolia line under its control. By 1907, production had been moved to Lever’s modern manufacturing facilities at Port Sunlight, where the tradition of excellence continued. Under Lever Brothers’ guidance, Vinolia products remained available and retained their high-end positioning, though they reached a broader audience.

Although Vinolia eventually ceased operations in its original form by 1930, the brand left an enduring legacy. Its influence can still be seen in the standards it set for luxury toiletries, in the cultural resonance of its association with the Titanic, and in the fond remembrance of its distinctive fragrances and beautifully crafted products. Blondeau et Cie and the Vinolia brand exemplify a golden age of refinement in personal care—an era where quality, presentation, and innovation went hand in hand.

 

 

The perfumes of Blondeau:

• 1889 Vinolia Bouquet
• 1890 Violette de Parme
• 1892 Jequilla (Vinolia)
• 1892 Luxuria (Vinolia)
• 1892 Marequil (Vinolia)
• 1892 Vinolia Bouquet
• 1893 Eau De Cologne
• 1893 Ess Bouquet
• 1895 Jasmin
• 1893 Jockey Club
• 1893 Marechale Niel
• 1893 Millefleurs
• 1893 Opoponax
• 1893 Stephanotis
• 1893 White Heliotrope
• 1893 Ylang Ylang
• 1895 Losaria (Vinolia)
• 1895 One Drop Perfumes (alcohol-free, highly concentrated perfumes)
• 1895 Ambergris
• 1895 Amaryllis
• 1895 Frangipanni
• 1895 Honeysuckle
• 1895 New Mown Hay
• 1895 Musk Rose
• 1896 Chypre
• 1896 Lys de France
• 1896 Mignonette
• 1896 Musk
• 1896 Patchouli
• 1896 Violet
• 1896 Wallflower
• 1896 White Lilac
• 1896 White Rose
• 1897 Clematis
• 1897 Hyacinth
• 1897 Lily of the Valley
• 1897 Musk Lavender
• 1897 Narcissus
• 1897 Opoponax
• 1897 Peau d'Espagne
• 1897 Rondeletia
• 1897 Stephanotis
• 1897 Wood Violet
• 1898 Patchouli
• 1898 Rhine Violets
• 1898 Rose d'Orient
• 1898 Violette
• 1898 Violette de Parme
• 1898 White Heliotrope
• 1919 Sweet Pea
• 1919 Night Scented Stock
• 1919 Persian Lilac
• 1921 Mystic Charm

The perfumes of Vinolia:

• 1892 Jequilla
• 1892 Liril Violets
• 1892 Marequil
• 1892 Vinolia Bouquet
• 1893 Losaria
• 1893 White Heliotrope
• 1893 Wood Violet  (still sold in 1922)
• 1893 Ess Bouquet
• 1893 Frangipanni
• 1893 Jockey Club
• 1893 Marechal Niel
• 1893 Millefleur
• 1893 Stephanotis
• 1893 Opoponax
• 1893 Ylang Ylang
• 1893 Musk
• 1893 Ambergris
• 1893 Amaryllis
• 1893 White Lilac
• 1893 White Rose  (still sold in 1922)
• 1893 Luxuria
• 1895 Lavender Water
• 1896 Honeysuckle
• 1896 Vinolia Eau de Cologne
• 1896 New Mown Hay
• 1896 Lily of the Valley
• 1896 Rondeletia
• 1896 Narcissus
• 1896 Clematis
• 1896 Hyacinth
• 1897 Mignonette
• 1899 White Vinolia
• 1899 Quadruple extract Carnation
• 1899 Quadruple extract White Lilac
• 1899 Quadruple extract Jockey Club
• 1899 Quadruple extract Mylissa
• 1899 Quadruple extract Opoponax
• 1899 Quadruple extract Violette de Parme
• 1899 Quadruple extract White Heliotrope
• 1900 Sourire d'Ete
• 1900 White Seringen
• 1903 Quadruple extract Waneeta
• 1910 Mon Caprice
• 1910 Peau d'Espagne (still sold in 1922)
• 1911 Royal Rose
• 1911 Royal Vinolia
• 1911 Red Rose
• 1911 Tulipe d'Or
• 1913 Red Clover
• 1914 Sweet Scented Daphne
• 1919 Aralys
• 1920 Alaba
• 1920 English Rose
• 1920 Golden Tulip
• 1920 Osiris
• 1920 Violet
• 1920 Quadruple extract Wallflower  (still sold in 1922)
• 1922 Jasmine
• 1922 Lilac
• 1922 Sweet Pea
• 1922 Carnation
• 1922 Rhine Violet
• 1924 Floral Toilet Waters
• 1925 Old English Lavender
• 1927 Aralys Chypre
• 1927 Eau de Cologne
• 1930 Dylissia
• Mitcham Lavender
• Quadruple extract Mylissia
• Quadruple extract Reine Violets
• Triple Eau de Cologne
• Blue Rose
• Perfection
• Tres Chic
• Violets de parme
• Witte Seringen

Pharmaceutical Journal - Volume 19, 1904:

Rose Perfumes:

Blondeau et Cie, a renowned perfumery, gained recognition for its Vinolia brand, which offered a luxurious range of rose-based perfumes and soaps. Their creations included captivating names such as Musk Rose, White Rose, Rose d'Orient, Marechale Niel, Royal Rose, Red Rose, English Rose, and Blue Rose. Despite the variety of titles, the underlying formulas shared a consistent foundation, with slight variations achieved through the addition, omission, or refinement of specific ingredients. Occasionally, the same fragrance might have been renamed or discontinued as trends evolved.

The top notes of these perfumes were designed to evoke the freshness and vibrancy of blooming roses. These notes combined the quintessential scent of rose with complementary ingredients such as palmarosa, rose geranium, and geraniol. The blend was further enhanced by the bright, crisp nuances of citronellyl acetate, aldehyde C10, Norol, and the sweet, floral quality of phenylethyl alcohol. Citronellol added a soft, lemony undertone, rounding out the aromatic opening.

At the heart of each composition lay an intricate bouquet of middle notes, which added depth and opulence. The central rose accord was supported by the golden warmth of honey and the ethereal beauty of jasmine. Orris root contributed a soft, powdery elegance, while tuberose introduced creamy, intoxicating richness. The inclusion of orange blossom imparted a bright and sunny character, enhancing the floral harmony.

The base notes provided the foundation and longevity for the perfumes, enveloping wearers in a warm, sensual embrace. Tonka bean and vanilla introduced sweet and creamy facets, while musk and civet added animalic, velvety depth. Earthy patchouli provided an exotic, grounding element, balanced by the resinous warmth of ambergris. Rhodium, a rare and precious component, lent a subtle metallic sheen, adding to the uniqueness of the compositions.

Blondeau et Cie’s Vinolia range was a testament to the artistry of blending traditional rose fragrances with complex supporting notes. Each scent offered a unique interpretation of rose, ensuring a rich sensory experience that resonated with a diverse audience.

Violet Perfumes:

Blondeau et Cie, through their celebrated Vinolia brand, introduced a charming array of violet-based perfumes and soaps that showcased the timeless allure of this delicate floral note. The collection included fragrances such as Violette de Parme, Violette, Rhine Violets, Wood Violet, Liril Violets, and Reine Violets. Despite the variety in names, these perfumes shared a fundamental base formula, subtly altered with the addition or subtraction of select ingredients. Over time, some scents may have been renamed or discontinued to adapt to shifting preferences and market trends.

The top notes of these violet perfumes provided a vibrant and inviting opening. A blend of verbena and methyl heptin carbonate introduced a sparkling freshness, complemented by the sweet, powdery scent of violet and the green, slightly spicy nuances of geranium. Almond added a touch of creamy warmth, while cassie brought a hint of soft, mimosa-like florals. Bergamot brightened the composition with its zesty citrus essence, and methyl ionone enhanced the violet accord with its characteristic woody, floral undertone.

The middle notes formed the heart of these compositions, delivering a rich and layered floral profile. Farnesol lent a soft, green floral quality that harmonized with the lush sweetness of jasmine and the powdery sophistication of orris root. The inclusion of rose added depth and elegance, while heliotropin contributed a creamy, almond-like sweetness reminiscent of vanilla. Tuberose provided an opulent and intoxicating richness that elevated the violet accord to new heights.

The base notes grounded the fragrances with a warm, sensual finish. Benzyl acetate and vanillin introduced a sweet and slightly fruity aspect, balanced by the resinous, balsamic tones of tolu balsam and storax. Musk and ambrette created a soft, velvety depth, while santalol, a primary component of sandalwood oil, added a creamy, woody richness. This harmonious foundation ensured lasting complexity and appeal.

Blondeau et Cie’s violet offerings under the Vinolia brand exemplified the versatility and charm of violet in perfumery. Each fragrance in the collection celebrated the flower's delicate beauty while exploring its potential through subtle variations and complementary notes, making them a beloved choice among connoisseurs of fine fragrance.

Ess. Bouquet Perfumes:

Blondeau et Cie, in collaboration with their renowned Vinolia brand, crafted an exquisite line of perfumes and soaps under the name "Ess. Bouquet," short for Essence Bouquet. These offerings were celebrated for their harmonious blends of floral, citrus, and warm resinous notes, embodying a timeless appeal that catered to a variety of preferences. While the fragrances shared a core formula, they were creatively tailored by altering ingredients to evoke subtle variations or modern reinterpretations, ensuring a diverse yet cohesive collection.

The top notes of Ess. Bouquet compositions delivered a bright and invigorating opening. Lemon and bergamot introduced a burst of fresh, citrusy zest, balanced by the calming and herbaceous scent of lavender. Neroli contributed a sweet and slightly bitter floral essence, while the inclusion of pimento added a hint of warm, spicy intrigue. Acacia lent a soft, honeyed floral tone, complemented by the cinnamon-like warmth of cassia, creating a rich and inviting introduction.

At the heart of Ess. Bouquet fragrances lay a lush and elegant floral accord. Rose, with its timeless and romantic character, intertwined seamlessly with the powdery sophistication of orris and the rich, sweet intensity of jasmine. Orange blossom enhanced the blend with its fresh, citrus-floral brightness, while cinnamon added a touch of warmth and spice, deepening the bouquet and providing a nuanced complexity to the compositions.

The base notes anchored the fragrances with a luxurious and enduring depth. Sandalwood offered a creamy, woody richness, harmonized by the resinous warmth of ambergris and Siamese benzoin. Cedar added a dry, slightly smoky undertone, while patchouli and vetiver contributed earthy and woody dimensions. Musk and civet introduced a velvety softness with animalic nuances, while styrax imparted a sweet, balsamic warmth that lingered beautifully on the skin.

Jasmine Perfumes:

Blondeau et Cie, along with their esteemed Vinolia brand, showcased a range of jasmine-based perfumes and soaps that epitomized the beauty and allure of this iconic floral note. These creations highlighted jasmine's intoxicating and sensual aroma, balanced by complementary accords that enriched and diversified the compositions. While the fragrances adhered to a shared foundational formula, slight variations in the addition or omission of ingredients allowed for a nuanced exploration of jasmine’s versatility.

The top notes of these jasmine-based creations introduced a lively and refreshing opening. Cassie added a green, powdery sweetness, while neroli brought its citrusy and lightly floral brightness. Benzyl acetate imparted a fruity, jasmine-like nuance, harmonizing with the soft floral tones of linalool and the slightly sweet, citrus-tinged aroma of linalyl acetate. Methyl anthranilate contributed a rich, grape-like sweetness that lent an unusual but enchanting complexity to the initial burst.

At the heart of these fragrances lay the unmistakable and opulent aroma of jasmine absolute. This key ingredient provided a lush, velvety floral character, enhanced by the animalic depth of indol, which emphasized jasmine’s sensuality. Orange blossom introduced a fresh, luminous floralcy, while orris root added a soft, powdery elegance. Farnesol, with its subtle sweetness, and methyl nonylacetaldehyde, with its aldehydic sparkle, rounded out the middle notes, ensuring a captivating and multidimensional floral core.

The base notes anchored these compositions with warmth and longevity. Civet brought an animalic richness, seamlessly blending with the musky and slightly nutty aroma of ambrette. Ambergris lent its marine and slightly sweet resinous quality, while tolu balsam and benzoin added a balsamic warmth with hints of vanilla and spice. Musk provided a velvety softness, while styrolyl alcohol contributed a delicate sweetness and stability to the blend, ensuring the fragrance lingered beautifully on the skin.

Blondeau et Cie and Vinolia’s jasmine-based offerings captured the essence of timeless floral elegance. Whether worn as a perfume or incorporated into a luxurious soap, these creations celebrated jasmine’s natural splendor, skillfully enhanced by a carefully orchestrated array of supporting notes to create a rich and unforgettable olfactory experience.