Parfums Massenet

Parfums Massenet, Inc., headquartered at 509 Madison Avenue, New York, marked an intriguing chapter in the story of French-American perfumery. Established in Paris around 1940 by G.R. Parkinson, the brand entered the market during a time of immense social and cultural change. As a French-founded perfume house that later established itself in the United States, Parfums Massenet reflects the era’s evolving landscape, where many European brands sought stability and a new audience across the Atlantic due to the challenges of World War II.

G.R. Parkinson’s foundation of Parfums Massenet likely aimed to capture the refined, cosmopolitan spirit of pre-war French perfumery and adapt it for American sensibilities. Situated on Madison Avenue, one of New York’s prominent addresses, Massenet positioned itself at the heart of the city’s fashion and luxury district, appealing to a sophisticated clientele. This address allowed the brand to bridge European elegance with American style, catering to the tastes of discerning clients in search of luxurious and exclusive fragrances. The legacy of Parfums Massenet, though less well-documented today, embodies the cross-cultural exchanges of the time, offering a snapshot of the resilience and adaptability of fine perfumery during an era of global transition.

In 1946, the American Druggist publication announced the return of three popular French perfumes—Rhapsodie, Altesse, and Mandalay—from Parfums Massenet, perfumes that had been unavailable to American women during the war years. This absence was not unusual for the perfume industry during World War II. The wartime conditions severely impacted many aspects of international trade and manufacturing, particularly in Europe. French perfumes, long considered the epitome of luxury, faced significant challenges due to a combination of factors, such as shortages of raw materials, export restrictions, and the broader disruptions to the global supply chain.

During the war, many of the essential ingredients required for perfume production—such as flowers, essential oils, and alcohol—were in short supply or prioritized for other uses. The manufacturing capacity of perfume houses was often diverted to wartime production, further halting or slowing down the production of luxury goods like fragrance. Additionally, the war created a situation where many countries, including the United States, imposed import restrictions, limiting the flow of goods from Europe, including perfumes. This meant that even if production continued in France, the perfumes could not reach American shores.

For women in the United States who had grown accustomed to the sophisticated allure of French perfumes, this hiatus would have been a marked absence during the war years. The announcement in 1946, therefore, signified more than just the return of fragrances—it was a symbolic restoration of pre-war elegance and luxury. The French perfume industry, and particularly brands like Massenet, were emblematic of an era of refinement that had been abruptly interrupted. The post-war period marked a time of renewal and optimism, and the return of these beloved scents would have been seen as a welcome and highly anticipated return to normalcy, offering a sense of escape and nostalgia for a world that, although changed, still cherished the refined pleasures of luxury.

Massenet's perfumes, Rhapsodie, Altesse, and Mandalay, all of which had been out of reach for American consumers during the war, would now be available in convenient sizes—half-ounce and one-ounce bottles. This smaller packaging would have made the perfumes more accessible to a broader audience, signaling a shift in the perfume market as it adapted to post-war consumer needs and desires. The announcement was likely met with excitement, as American women once again had access to the iconic, mysterious, and evocative scents that had been part of their pre-war lives.

In 1947, Parfums Massenet continued to solidify its presence in the American market, as evidenced by an advertisement in the Northwest Arkansas Times. The ad highlighted three of the brand's signature fragrances—Rhapsodie, Mandalay, and Altesse—with prices ranging from $2.25 to $17.50. This pricing structure showcased the brand's ability to cater to a wide range of consumers, offering both affordable options and more luxurious choices. At the lower end of the price spectrum, $2.25 would likely have been for smaller bottle sizes (drams), making the fragrances accessible to those who desired a taste of French luxury without the higher investment. On the other hand, the $17.50 price tag would have been for larger, more extravagant bottles, appealing to those willing to indulge in a more opulent perfume experience. The inclusion of both Parisian and New York locations in the ad emphasized the brand's international reach, bridging the allure of French craftsmanship with the growing American market. This advertisement positioned Massenet perfumes as not just an everyday luxury, but as a symbol of sophistication and elegance, available to a broader audience eager to embrace the glamour and refinement of post-war luxury.

Also in 1947, Parfums Massenet introduced a lavish gift package that featured three of their signature fragrances: Mandalay, Rhapsodie, and Altesse. This new offering was designed with elegance and sophistication in mind, emphasizing the brand's commitment to beauty and luxury. The presentation was nothing short of opulent—each fragrance bottle was meticulously placed on a golden candelabra, creating a striking visual appeal. The golden candelabra itself was paired with a shimmering aquamarine background, a color often associated with tranquility and refinement, which further elevated the luxurious feel of the packaging. The set was then enclosed in a box decorated in complementary aquamarine and gold, a color combination that reflected both the richness of the perfumes and the glamour of the era. This exquisite presentation would have appealed to the fashionable woman of the 1940s, someone who valued not only the scent but also the art of perfume as an experience of elegance and indulgence.

The allure of the Candelabre de Massenet—as this gift set was called—was its ability to transport buyers into a world of glamour and sophistication. The idea of displaying the perfumes on a golden candelabra was a nod to both luxury and romance, drawing on the imagery of candlelit evenings and refined occasions. The three fragrances included in the package—Rhapsodie, Altesse, and Mandalay—offered a range of scents from the tender, lyrical sweetness of Rhapsodie to the exotic woodiness of Mandalay and the regal elegance of Altesse, ensuring that there was a fragrance to suit every mood or occasion.

In a separate promotion featured in Motion Picture Story Magazine in the same year, Massenet also offered a more compact version of this gift set, the Candelabre de Massenet. This smaller set contained one dram of each of the three fragrances—Rhapsodie, Altesse, and Mandalay—for a price of $5, making it a more affordable option for those seeking the same luxurious experience without committing to a larger bottle. The price point of $5 would have appealed to those who desired a touch of French sophistication but at a more accessible price. This promotional item not only served as an introduction to Massenet's elegant fragrances but also as a charming way to gift luxury, tying together the allure of Hollywood glamour with the sensory experience of fine perfume.

Both packaging concepts—the larger, opulent gift set and the more affordable dram-sized candelabra set—tapped into the post-war market's desire for beauty and escapism. The 1940s was a time when Americans were eager to embrace refinement and luxury once again, and these thoughtfully presented perfumes, with their elegant designs and iconic scents, provided a means of indulging in the glamour and sophistication of a pre-war era.

The Massenet perfumes, which had first made a significant mark on the fragrance world in the early 1940s, were still available on the market as late as 1952. This continued presence suggests that the brand maintained a loyal following, even after the turbulence of the Second World War had subsided. The fact that their perfumes, such as Mandalay, Altesse, and Rhapsodie, were still being sold during this period reflects a certain timeless appeal, particularly in the post-war world, where consumers were increasingly seeking sophistication and nostalgia for the elegance of the pre-war era.

The fragrances themselves, with their rich, exotic, and sometimes complex compositions, would have resonated with a generation of women who were re-embracing luxury and opulence after the austerity of wartime. The allure of Massenet’s perfumes—exotic and refined, yet accessible—would have felt like a comforting escape into a more glamorous, more peaceful world. The imagery surrounding these scents was often linked to romance, mystique, and a sense of international chic, elements that would have appealed to the growing number of women who were embracing a modern, cosmopolitan lifestyle during the 1950s.

While it is clear that the Massenet brand had some lasting success in the early 1950s, the lack of further newspaper advertisements after 1952 suggests that the brand may have struggled to maintain its relevance in the rapidly changing fragrance market. As the 1950s wore on, the world of perfume was shifting toward new and exciting trends, with an increasing focus on fresher, more modern scents, and the rise of larger, more dominant perfume houses. As a result, brands like Massenet, which were associated with an older, more traditional style, may have found it difficult to compete in this evolving market.

Despite this, the lasting presence of Massenet’s perfumes during the early 1950s indicates that they had made a lasting impact on the fragrance world, carving out a niche for themselves in a time of transition. The absence of ads after 1952 does not diminish the cultural significance these perfumes held during their peak; instead, it reflects the natural ebb and flow of fashion, as well as the competitive pressures within the fragrance industry. By that time, other perfume houses had begun to dominate the market, and the Massenet name, while still cherished by some, gradually faded into the background of perfume history.

  

The perfumes of Massenet:

• 1941 Altesse de Massenet 
• 1942 Bouquet Américain  
• 1942 Mandalay
• 1942 Rhapsodie
• 1944 Liquid Flowers
• 1944 Shéhérazade
• 1947 Candelabre (a presentation)

Altesse:

Launched in 1941, Altesse by Massenet was an aldehydic floral fragrance that quickly captured the attention of women, offering a scent that was both regal and enigmatic. The name "Altesse" itself suggests nobility or royal status, evoking images of elegance and refinement. "Altesse" translates to "Highness" or "Your Highness" in English, a fitting name for a fragrance that sought to make its wearer feel elevated, dignified, and captivating. The perfume was described as "haunting," "different," and "unlike any scent you know," with qualities that seemed both mysterious and spellbinding. This was a fragrance that lingered in memory, its unique blend of ingredients making it truly unforgettable.

As an aldehydic floral, Altesse would have been characterized by the distinctive use of aldehydes, a family of synthetic compounds that contribute to a clean, soapy, and sometimes metallic or waxy scent profile. These aldehydes would have created a sparkling, airy quality, giving the perfume a fresh and ethereal opening. The floral heart of the fragrance likely featured classic blooms such as rose, jasmine, and lily of the valley, known for their elegant, soft, and feminine profiles. These flowers would have been layered with hints of iris, a powdery note that adds sophistication and depth.

The "haunting" nature of the fragrance could have been enhanced by the use of rich, sensual base notes such as sandalwood, amber, and a soft musk, which provide warmth and an alluring, velvety finish. The aldehydes would have lifted these deeper notes, creating a balance of freshness and warmth. A touch of civet or opopanax might have been included to add a resinous or animalic facet, contributing to the perfume's sense of mystery.

The fragrance’s allure was not just in its scent, but also in its presentation. Altesse was housed in a jewel-like bottle, suggesting both luxury and opulence, with a design likely to reflect the perfume’s regal and enigmatic qualities. This combination of a complex, multi-layered fragrance and an elegant presentation made Altesse an unforgettable scent of its time—one that left a lasting impression on those who encountered it. Altesse was discontinued in 1948.

Mandalay:

Launched in 1942, Mandalay quickly became the most popular fragrance from the house of Massenet. The name "Mandalay" evokes the mystique and allure of the Far East, specifically referencing the ancient city in Myanmar (formerly Burma). This exotic name was an apt choice for a fragrance that combined woodsy, spicy, and floral notes, creating a scent that was both enchanting and opulent. With its rich, complex composition, Mandalay transported its wearer to distant lands, inviting a sense of adventure and sensuality.

The fragrance itself is described as woodsy and spicy, with the opening likely featuring warm, earthy notes such as sandalwood or cedarwood. These woods provide a grounding, almost mystical aura to the scent, evoking the deep, natural elements of the East. The spicy aspect of the perfume would likely be accentuated by ingredients such as cinnamon, clove, or pepper—notes that add a sharp, invigorating quality, enhancing the perfume’s exotic allure.

The heart of Mandalay is where the exotic floral notes truly shine, with the prominent presence of ylang-ylang. Known for its rich, sweet, and slightly fruity scent, ylang-ylang brings a tropical sensuality to the perfume. Its creamy, almost narcotic floral quality would have balanced beautifully against the spicier, woodier notes, adding depth and richness. The presence of other florals, perhaps jasmine or tuberose, might have further emphasized the fragrance's luxurious, opulent nature.

Resting on an amber and patchouli base, Mandalay achieved a warmth and sensuality that lingered long after the fragrance was first applied. Amber, with its resinous, sweet, and slightly powdery qualities, deepened the perfume, while patchouli provided an earthy, almost musky depth that anchored the more fleeting floral and spicy notes. The base notes would have given Mandalay a rich, enduring presence, with the patchouli adding a slightly rebellious edge to the otherwise luxurious composition.

This combination of wood, spice, exotic florals, and rich, grounding base notes made Mandalay an unforgettable fragrance, embodying the mystery and allure of the East in a way that resonated with women of the time. It was a scent that not only captured the imagination but also created an aura of sophistication and sensuality that made it Massenet’s most beloved perfume of the era.

Bouquet Americain:

Launched in 1942, Bouquet Americain by Massenet was designed to capture the essence of the American landscape, with its rich forests and vibrant florals, offering a lighter, more refreshing counterpart to the house’s other offerings. The name itself, Bouquet Americain, translates to "American Bouquet," immediately invoking images of lush forests, sprawling meadows, and colorful wildflowers native to the United States. This perfume sought to evoke the natural beauty of the American countryside through a fragrant composition of woodsy and floral notes.

The fragrance is described as a "fragrance bouquet" that celebrates the rich woods and colorful flowers of America. The "woody" aspect of Bouquet Americain suggests the inclusion of ingredients like sandalwood, cedarwood, or perhaps even fir or pine—woody notes that are emblematic of the American wilderness. These elements would have imparted a grounded, earthy quality to the perfume, evoking the towering forests of the American West or the dense woodlands of the East Coast.

The floral elements in Bouquet Americain would have been equally captivating, likely drawing inspiration from the vibrant wildflowers found across the American landscape. Imagine the sweet, slightly spicy scent of honeysuckle, the fresh, green notes of violet, or the rich, powdery fragrance of jasmine. These florals would have combined to create a delicate, yet colorful bouquet, capturing the lively spirit of America’s natural beauty. The lighter nature of the fragrance would suggest a sense of airiness, possibly with a touch of citrus or a fresh, green note like grass or lily of the valley, to brighten the overall composition.

To complement the bouquet of wood and flowers, Bouquet Americain would likely have been completed with a subtle, slightly powdery base note, possibly drawn from ingredients such as musky or woody amber, adding depth and warmth without overwhelming the freshness of the top and middle notes. The "appropriate bedecked flacon" mentioned in the description refers to the perfume’s elegant bottle, likely adorned in a way that reflected the American aesthetic of the time, perhaps with decorative touches that highlighted the rich natural themes of the fragrance.

Overall, Bouquet Americain would have been a light, refreshing fragrance that paid homage to the beauty of America’s woodlands and floral landscapes. Its clean, airy composition, enriched with rich wood and bright florals, would have evoked a sense of freedom, natural beauty, and the outdoors—qualities that resonated with women of the time, especially during the early 1940s, when the United States was experiencing a period of transformation and patriotism. The perfume provided an olfactory escape into the heart of nature, offering a celebratory, yet refined, interpretation of America’s diverse landscape.

Rhapsodie:

Launched in 1942, Rhapsodie by Massenet was a tender fragrance that encapsulated the allure and romance of pre-war Paris, evoking an era of grandeur and elegance. The name Rhapsodie translates to "Rhapsody" in English, a word that conjures images of musical harmony, flowing melodies, and poetic expressions. This perfume was designed to capture the essence of such a lyrical experience, embodying a fragrance that was both sparkling and heady, with a golden warmth at its core.

The term "tender fragrance" suggests a delicate, soft opening, perhaps composed of light, floral notes that gently unfold over time. Rhapsodie likely included soft, sweet florals like rose, lily of the valley, or perhaps orange blossom, which are often associated with tender, romantic scents. These notes would have been enhanced by a sense of airiness, giving the perfume a sparkling quality that is both invigorating and uplifting. Such florals are inherently soft, adding a natural sweetness that immediately draws you in with its warmth and depth.

The description of Rhapsodie as "heady" suggests a more intoxicating aspect to the fragrance, where the floral elements are likely paired with richer, more opulent ingredients that bring depth and complexity. The perfume’s "lyrical sweetness" could have been amplified by ingredients like jasmine, which has a dense, sweet, and slightly musky quality that evokes romantic rapture. There may also have been touches of ylang-ylang, a lush tropical flower known for its heady, intoxicating sweetness, contributing to the perfume’s rapturous character.

The "golden" aspect of the fragrance points to the base notes, where warmer, resinous ingredients would likely have come into play. Amber, with its rich, honeyed warmth, and possibly a hint of sweet vanilla or powdery musks, would have provided a golden, almost radiant foundation for the fragrance, lending it a lasting sense of warmth and sensuality. This combination of sweet florals, heady spices, and golden warmth would have given Rhapsodie a rich, captivating aura, one that was both sparkling and deeply alluring.

Rhapsodie would have appealed to women of the early 1940s, who were yearning for a connection to the more glamorous, carefree days of pre-war Paris. The fragrance’s delicate sweetness, combined with its deeper, more intoxicating elements, would have been perfect for women who sought elegance and sophistication in their everyday lives, especially as they navigated the challenges of a world on the brink of war. It’s easy to imagine Rhapsodie becoming a symbol of the golden age of Parisian luxury, a scent that transported wearers to a more romantic and refined time.

In summary, Rhapsodie was a fragrance that captured the spirit of pre-war Paris in all its sparkling, lyrical, and golden glory. Its combination of soft florals, intoxicating spices, and warm, amber-like base notes created a delicate yet complex perfume, one that lingered with a touch of nostalgia and rapture, transporting the wearer to a world of beauty and harmony.

 

  

Bottles:

Rhapsodie, same bottle was used by Raquel.