Emeraude by Coty, launched in 1918 and crafted by the visionary perfumer François Coty, is a fragrance steeped in historical significance and cultural reverence. Pronounced "EM-AIR-ODE," the name itself, meaning "emerald" in French, hints at the rich narrative that inspired its creation.
In the early 20th century, François Coty was captivated by the ancient Persian culture, particularly their veneration of the emerald. The Persians, renowned for their sophisticated civilization and deep appreciation for the arts and sciences, held emeralds in high esteem. These precious stones were not merely ornamental but were believed to possess profound mystical powers. They were often housed in temples, symbolizing divine protection and happiness.
Against the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by turmoil and longing for beauty and stability, Coty sought to infuse his creations with a sense of wonder and escapism. His fascination with Persian legends and the emerald's reputed ability to bring divine happiness provided the perfect muse.
The post-war era, characterized by a yearning for peace and a return to elegance, found a perfect expression in Emeraude. Coty's goal was ambitious: to encapsulate the allure and mystique of the emerald, transforming its essence into a sensory experience. Emeraude was more than a fragrance; it was an olfactory representation of the emerald's soul, designed to evoke the same reverence and enchantment that the Persians felt towards their treasured jewels.
Launched during a time when modern perfumery was beginning to blossom, Emeraude stood out with its complex blend, balancing citrus top notes with a warm, spicy heart and a sensual, woody base. This composition was groundbreaking, setting a new standard for luxury fragrances. It invited wearers to embark on a journey through time and space, connecting them to the ancient Persian mystique while offering a modern sense of luxury and sophistication.
In essence, Emeraude by Coty is not just a perfume; it is a narrative encapsulated in a bottle, bridging the historical reverence of Persian culture with the early 20th century's desire for beauty and serenity amidst chaos. François Coty's creation remains a testament to the timeless allure of the emerald and the enduring power of storytelling in perfumery.
Rivalry Between Icons:
The launch of Emeraude played a significant role in the highly competitive world of early 20th-century perfumery. The fragrance encapsulated not only a cultural and historical narrative but also sparked a notable rivalry that fueled the creation of some of the most iconic perfumes of the era.
During this period, the perfume industry was intensely competitive, with houses like Coty and Guerlain striving to create the most exquisite and memorable scents. François Coty, with his innovative approach and marketing acumen, had already established a formidable reputation. Emeraude, with its complex blend of citrus, spicy heart, and sensual woody base, became a landmark creation, capturing the essence of luxury and mystique.
Rumors of the time suggested that the wife of Jacques Guerlain, a leading figure in the Guerlain perfume house, was particularly fond of two fragrances by Coty: L'Aimant and Emeraude. This preference by such a closely connected individual to Guerlain likely stung Jacques Guerlain, known for his competitive spirit and pride in his creations.
In an effort to rival Coty's success and perhaps to win back personal and professional esteem, it is rumored that Jacques Guerlain embarked on creating a perfume that could match or surpass Emeraude. This led to the birth of Shalimar in 1925, which has since become one of the most iconic and enduring fragrances in the world. Indeed, both Emeraude and Shalimar share a similar olfactory profile, with their rich, oriental compositions and sensuous, warm undertones, highlighting the direct influence of Coty's creation on Guerlain's masterpiece.
The rivalry between Coty and Guerlain during this time exemplifies the intense competition that drove innovation and excellence in perfumery. Each house sought not only to capture the market but also to create perfumes that would stand the test of time and resonate deeply with consumers. Emeraude’s influence on Shalimar is a testament to the way competition can push artists and creators to new heights, resulting in products that become benchmarks of their craft.
In essence, the story of Emeraude and its impact on Guerlain's Shalimar is a fascinating chapter in the history of perfumery. It highlights how competitive drive and personal rivalries can lead to the creation of iconic, enduring fragrances that continue to enchant and inspire generations.
Personal Perfumes:
In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume marketing was deeply intertwined with societal norms and beauty ideals of the time. Perfume companies often suggested that women should choose their scents based on physical attributes such as hair color and complexion, reinforcing contemporary stereotypes about beauty and personality. François Coty’s Emeraude, launched in 1918, exemplifies this trend. Coty’s creation was recommended for brunettes and redheads, with the "exotic richness" of Emeraude purportedly complementing the "warm, velvety beauty" of brunettes. The fragrance was also described as "languorous" and "brilliant," suited for redheads, who were often considered rare and exotic. This marketing strategy capitalized on the allure of exoticism and the mystique associated with darker hair and unique features.
For blondes, light and floral perfumes were recommended, such as Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. These scents were considered to match the delicate and refined beauty attributed to blonde women. Brunettes, on the other hand, were encouraged to wear heavier, more oriental perfumes like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, and Styx, which were thought to enhance their earthy and sophisticated allure. Red-haired women were also associated with unique and vibrant perfumes. Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen were recommended to complement their rare and exotic beauty.
In addition to physical attributes, other perfumers advised women to select perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their looks. For women of a sunny, joyous type, L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were suggested to match their light-hearted and breezy nature. Dreamy, elusive types were encouraged to wear Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc for their soft and enchanting qualities. Exotic types could turn to Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique for their earthy and intriguing scents. Mysterious types were best suited to Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen, which conveyed a deep and shadowy character. Brilliant, sophisticated temperaments were matched with Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan, which offered complex and refined fragrances.
These marketing techniques played on the romantic and exotic notions of the era, effectively guiding consumers toward perfumes that purportedly matched their physical characteristics or inner personas. This strategy was not only about personal identity but also about making informed gift choices, appealing to those unsure about which perfume to purchase. As a result, thousands of bottles were sold, making perfumes like Emeraude and Shalimar not just scents but symbols of sophistication and personality.
Sears, Roebuck and Company Catalog, 1930:
"EMERAUDE - Exquisitely Appealing. Rich in fragrance with an ardent power to sway the senses."
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. Piquant, intriguing, spicy, a combination of exotic plants, sandalwood, musk, amber and jasmine with just a hint of citrus for surprise.
- Top notes: cyclamen, aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, orange, lemongrass
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, cassie, jasmine, Comoros ylang ylang, rose, Brazilian rosewood
- Base notes: aloeswood, musk, styrax, Peru balsam, tonka bean, civet, castoreum, spices, resins, opoponax, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Ambrein, Malabar sandalwood, patchouli, Siamese benzoin
Scent Profile:
Imagine yourself transported to the opulent palaces of ancient Persia, where the air is thick with the scent of exotic spices and blooming flowers, mingling with the aroma of precious woods and resins. As you stroll through the marble halls adorned with glittering jewels and vibrant tapestries, the fragrance of Emeraude by Coty envelops you, evoking the legendary allure of the emerald and its fabled power to bring divine happiness.
The journey begins with the invigorating top notes of citrus: the bright, tangy essence of bergamot, orange, lemon, and lemongrass. These lively scents are accompanied by the fresh, dewy hint of cyclamen, which adds a delicate and ethereal quality. The initial burst is like the first light of dawn illuminating the vast Persian landscape, awakening the senses with its crisp and sparkling charm.
As the citrus notes fade, the heart of the fragrance unfolds, revealing a lush bouquet of floral wonders. Ylang ylang from the Comoros Islands introduces an exotic sweetness, while the romantic aroma of rose entwines with the wild, enchanting lily of the valley. Cassie lends a subtle, honeyed fragrance, and precious jasmine adds a rich, heady depth. These floral notes evoke the lush gardens of the palace, where every bloom is a jewel in its own right, cherished and revered.
The base notes ground the fragrance, providing a sweet, balsamic foundation that lingers long after the initial impressions have faded. The warmth of Mexican vanilla intertwines with the rich, resinous tones of Siamese benzoin and Peru balsam. Aromatic gums and tonka bean add complexity and depth, while the woodsy notes of aloeswood, Malabar sandalwood, and Brazilian rosewood evoke the ancient, time-worn pillars of the palace. This is further enriched by a quartet of sensual animalics: the earthy, mysterious ambergris, the leathery castoreum, the musky civet, and the powdery softness of musk. Spices and opoponax add an exotic, resinous touch, reminiscent of the treasured incense that fills the air in the sacred temples where emeralds are kept.
Emeraude's intricate composition is like a tapestry woven with the scents of a thousand and one nights, capturing the opulence and mystique of ancient Persia. The emerald, with its deep green brilliance, symbolizes the essence of this fragrance—a precious jewel that not only adorns but also possesses the power to enchant and mesmerize. Each note in Emeraude is carefully chosen to reflect the gemstone's allure, creating a scent that is both timeless and captivating, much like the fabled emeralds that inspired François Coty's masterpiece.
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Émeraude by Coty: flowery with jasmine, fixed by civet, castoreum and ambergris, this perfume of hope and luxury seems to enhance the carmine of a lip and adds to adornments that we cannot resist not."
Bottles:
Emeraude by Coty, a fragrance that has captivated senses since its creation in 1918, has been housed in numerous exquisite bottles over the years, each reflecting the perfume's luxurious essence. Depending on the concentration—whether Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, or Eau de Parfum—the bottles have varied in design and craftsmanship, adding to the allure and collectibility of the fragrance.
In its early years, some of Emeraude's bottles were crafted by renowned glassmakers Rene Lalique and Baccarat, known for their exceptional artistry and quality. These early bottles were masterpieces in themselves, embodying the elegance and sophistication of the fragrance within. However, after 1920, most of the bottles were produced by Coty's own glassworks in Pantin, ensuring a consistent supply of beautifully designed containers that complemented the perfume's prestigious image.
The bottles were often fitted with presentation cases made at Coty's boxing factory in Neuilly. These cases added another layer of opulence, making the fragrance not just a sensory experience but a luxurious object of desire. The combination of finely crafted glass bottles and elegant presentation cases highlighted Coty's dedication to quality and aesthetic excellence, ensuring that Emeraude remained a symbol of timeless beauty and sophistication.
The various concentrations and their corresponding bottles allowed Emeraude to appeal to a wide range of tastes and preferences, whether one sought the intense allure of the Parfum or the lighter touch of the Eau de Toilette. Each bottle, regardless of its design or concentration, carried within it the essence of François Coty's vision: a fragrance that captured the soul of the emerald, blending the opulent scents of ancient Persia with the timeless elegance of modern perfumery.
Parfum Flacons:
Emeraude's journey began with the creation of its first bottles, crafted for the Parfum (Extrait), by the esteemed glassmakers Rene Lalique and Baccarat. These initial bottles were exquisite works of art, embodying the luxurious essence of the fragrance within. However, as demand grew and Coty sought to make Emeraude more accessible to a wider audience, the cost of Lalique and Baccarat bottles became prohibitive.
To address this challenge, Coty adapted the designs of these prestigious bottles and established his own glassworks in France. From then on, Emeraude bottles bore the mark "Coty France" on their base, signifying their origins and Coty's commitment to quality craftsmanship. While the bottles may have been produced in-house, they retained the elegance and sophistication of their predecessors, ensuring that Emeraude remained synonymous with luxury and refinement.
This transition marked a significant moment in Emeraude's history, allowing it to reach a broader audience without compromising on quality or aesthetic appeal. The bottles, whether crafted by Lalique and Baccarat or by Coty's own glassworks, continued to be cherished as symbols of elegance and indulgence, capturing the essence of the fragrance they contained.
Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:
One of the earliest and most iconic bottles used for Emeraude was the Rene Lalique design featuring the double moth frosted glass stopper. Originally crafted for the Coty fragrance Muguet in 1912, this exquisite bottle soon became synonymous with Coty's fragrances, including Emeraude. It epitomized Lalique's mastery of glass artistry, with its delicate details and elegant design.
In 1913, Baccarat also produced a version of this bottle, identified by mold number 241 and acid-marked "Baccarat" on the base. Standing at 3.25 inches tall, these Baccarat bottles were equally prized for their craftsmanship and beauty.
As Coty sought to streamline production and reduce costs, the design was adapted for manufacturing at Coty's own glassworks. These bottles were marked "Coty" on the base and typically housed 1.6 ounces of parfum. Encased in a green leather-covered box, they exuded luxury and sophistication.
For travelers seeking to carry Emeraude with them, a modified version of the Lalique design was created. Featuring an inner glass stopper and a brass screw cap, these travel bottles were produced by Baccarat, model number 291. Despite their practicality, they retained the elegance and charm of the original design, ensuring that Emeraude could be enjoyed wherever one went.
In 1927, Coty brought out a pretty new packaging design for the moth stoppered bottle. The bottle was now housed in a box covered with a brown suede like effect. This presentation was used for the perfumes Emeraude, L'Origan, Paris and Chypre. Newspaper ads differed on how much the bottle actually held as I found 1 1/3 oz, 1 3/4 oz, and 1 1/2 oz being noted. Errors in ads were numerous at the time.
Etui a Cigarette Presentation:
Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation.
Etui a Cigarette Presentation:
Also introduced in 1927, was the Etui a Cigarette presentation.
Metal Case Parfum Bottles:
A larger size was also created for the boudoir, standing at 6" tall and holds Eau de Toilette. These bottles were also used for other Coty perfumes: L'Origan, Chypre, Paris,, La Rose Jacqueminot and L'Aimant.
Louvre Parfum Flacon:
The "Louvre" parfum flacon made it's debut in 1929 and featured an arched shape with sloping shoulders and was fitted a frosted glass stopper. The bottle held 1 2/3 oz of Parfum. The bottle was still being used in 1930 for Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, and La Jacee.
Crystal Bottles with Gilt Cap:
The "Louvre" parfum flacon made it's debut in 1929 and featured an arched shape with sloping shoulders and was fitted a frosted glass stopper. The bottle held 1 2/3 oz of Parfum. The bottle was still being used in 1930 for Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, and La Jacee.
In 1928, flat, square shaped crystal bottles with inner glass stoppers and gilt brass caps were available in French leather cases. These bottles held Emeraude, L'Origan,
Introduced around 1928 was a square crystal bottle with a flat, but faceted frosted glass stopper. This bottle held 1 2/3 oz of parfum and was used for Emeraude, Paris, Chypre and L'Origan.
photos from ebay seller Bottles and Scents
In 1936 Baccarat also supplied another bottle, with an inner glass stopper, model number 765. This bottle is the same shape as the one used in the mid 1920s, and has an inner glass stopper and brass cap, this time, the cap has horizontal bands of green enamel instead of dots. Also notice the label design is different.
This bottle can be found in the 1.86 oz size and stands 3.75" tall.
A demi-modele of the flacon was also released in 1936, you can see the image from a 1937 Coty catalog below how it was packaged. Notice the brass cap and location of the label.
In 1937, a new line of Emeraude fragranced products was introduced and all had the Persian themed packaging as seen by the ad below.
Gold-tone case holds a glass bottle and has a green plastic cap and base. It appeared in the 1937/1938 Coty catalog.
Eau de Toilette Flacons:
The early Eau de Toilette flacons followed the designs used for the Parfum, elegant and beautiful, often with colorful lithographed paper labels. Later bottles were much more simplistic in design.
In 1926, both a 1 1/5 oz and a 3 oz bottle for the Eau de Toilette were introduced that had patented metal sprinkler tops that allowed one to shake out only a few drops at a time when needed. These bottles were designed for traveling and were non-refillable.
Parfum de Toilette:
Coty's Parfum de Toilette, first introduced in 1960, was equal to today's Eau de Parfum strength fragrances. A happy medium between eau de toilette and parfum. The Emeraude Parfum de Toilette was housed in various bottles over the years.
The Imperial Decanter held 6 oz of Parfum de Toilette and was introduced as a limited edition in 1975. It retailed for $10 when launched, but in 1977, retailers were eager to clear out the remainders of old stock and were selling it as low as $3.59. The decanter was fitted with a special, tight sealing stopper. The instructions advised one to open the decant by placing it on a flat surface, and rocking the stopper gently back and forth, lifting gradually. Not pull directly. To replace, slip stopper down with the same gentle, rocking motion.
Eau de Cologne Flacons:
Spray Flacons:
Bath & Body Products:
Over the years bath and body products were released, discontinued and then released again, often in different containers and packaging. You can use the various clues on packaging to help you date your products.
Fate of the Fragrance:
After a brief hiatus due to the tumult of the Second World War, Emeraude returned to the United States, much to the delight of American women eager to once again experience its captivating scent.
In 1947, Glass Packer reported the resurgence of Coty's spicy fragrance, Emeraude perfume. This comeback was marked by a new flacon molded in the style of a square-cut emerald, adorned with a small spot label. The packaging, featuring a box of green simulated leather with a design inspired by Persian motifs, added an extra touch of elegance to the relaunched fragrance.
Glass Packer, 1947:
"Coty's spicy fragrance, Emeraude perfume, is back on cosmetic counters in a new flacon molded on the style of a square-cut emerald, and decorated with a small spot label. The box is of green simulated leather with a design in Persian motif."
Despite its enduring popularity, Emeraude has undergone reformulations over the years to adapt to evolving tastes and preferences. In 1971, it was noted that the fragrance had likely been reformulated to suit the modern sensibilities of the time. The Illustrated London News reported that while the revival of Emeraude retained its signature sweetness and tanginess, it was lighter and less heady than its original incarnation. This adjustment reflected Coty's commitment to keeping the fragrance relevant and appealing to contemporary consumers while preserving its timeless charm.
100th Anniversary:
In 2004, commemorating the 100th anniversary of the firm, Henri Coty, the son of François Coty, orchestrated a remarkable tribute to his father's legacy: the re-creation of Emeraude perfume. This special edition was encased in an exquisite French crystal flacon, elevating the fragrance to new heights of luxury and sophistication. Limited to just 200 units, exclusively available in the French market, this reimagined Emeraude was a testament to the enduring allure of Coty's creations.
Under the skillful guidance of perfumer Daphné Bugey, the fragrance was meticulously reformulated to capture the essence of the original Emeraude while infusing it with a contemporary twist. The result was a harmonious blend of timeless elegance and modern sensibility, encapsulated within the iconic crystal flacon. Each bottle bore the distinguished mark "Bottle Made In France" in raised letters, underscoring its heritage and craftsmanship.
Standing at a diminutive 2 inches tall and 1 1/4 inches square, the crystal flacon exuded understated elegance, serving as both a vessel for the precious fragrance and a work of art in its own right. Alongside Emeraude, other beloved Coty perfumes, including Jasmin de Corse, L'Origan, and La Rose Jacqueminot, were also offered in this limited edition set, further celebrating the brand's rich history and enduring legacy.
To commemorate this extraordinary occasion, Editions Assouline launched a book titled Coty: The Brand of Visionary, offering readers a captivating glimpse into the remarkable journey of François Coty and his revolutionary contributions to the world of perfumery. Together, these elements formed a tribute befitting the legacy of Coty, honoring his visionary spirit and the timeless allure of Emeraude.
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