Celui by Jean Desses c1938

In 1938, amidst the challenges of the Great Depression, Jean Desses launched the perfume "Celui," a creation by perfumer Paul Vacher for Les Parfums Jean Desses. This period was characterized by economic hardship, yet couture fashion designers persisted in crafting luxury items that offered a sense of escapism and glamour to their clientele.

Jean Desses likely chose the name "Celui" with careful consideration. In French, "Celui" means "he" or "the one," implying a sense of mystery and allure. However, in this context, "the one" does not refer to a specific person, man, dress, or perfume in particular. Rather, it suggests an air of mystery and allure, emphasizing a sense of exclusivity and sophistication. "Celui" suggests a perfume that embodies qualities traditionally associated with masculinity but reinterpreted through a feminine perspective. The name suggests that this perfume embodies characteristics of someone special or unique, encapsulating a sense of individuality and sophistication.

For women of the time, "Celui" would have resonated as a symbol of sophistication and empowerment. In an era where luxury and elegance were highly valued, this perfume promised secrecy and softness, offering a touch of refinement and intrigue to those who wore it.

The response to "Celui" would have been one of fascination and admiration. Its name alone suggests a perfume that is not merely a fragrance but a statement of individuality and elegance. The imagery and emotions evoked by "Celui" would likely include notions of mystery, romance, and sophistication, aligning perfectly with the aspirations and desires of women during the 1930s.

The name "Celui" would have been unique for a perfume at that time, standing out amidst contemporaneous fragrances with its evocative and enigmatic qualities. It would have been interpreted as a symbol of exclusivity and sophistication, appealing to women who sought to embody timeless elegance and allure.

In essence, "Celui" by Jean Desses, created in 1938 by Paul Vacher, represents a perfume that encapsulates the spirit of its era—a period marked by economic challenges yet defined by a pursuit of luxury and sophistication. Its name suggests a fragrance that whispers secrets and softness, resonating deeply with the desires and aspirations of women during the time of its launch.

The Launch:

The fragrance "Celui," created by perfumer Paul Vacher for Jean Desses, made its debut amidst opulence and style at Desses' fashion salon in Paris. Situated prominently in the heart of Paris, Jean Desses' boutique was located on Avenue Montaigne, a renowned hub for haute couture and luxury fashion houses. During the unveiling of his latest fall collection, Desses showcased not only his exquisite garments but also the allure of "Celui," which he lavishly sprayed throughout the salon. This event epitomized the intersection of fashion and fragrance, offering clients a sensory experience that combined the elegance of couture with the enchantment of a new and sophisticated perfume. Avenue Montaigne, with its prestigious address, further underscored Desses' stature as a designer of refined taste and style, setting the stage for "Celui" to capture the imaginations of fashionable women seeking both exclusivity and sophistication in perfume.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a zesty aldehydic top accented with hawthorn and the herbal facets of marjoram and oregano, followed by a rich floral heart of rose, jasmine, gardenia, heliotrope and violet, layered over a classic chypre base deepened with civet.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, hyacinth, narcissus, marjoram and hawthorn
• Middle notes: oregano, violet, tuberose, rose de Mai, Egyptian jasmine, gardenia, orris and heliotrope
• Base notes: tonka bean, labdanum, cypress, vetiver, civet, ambergris, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and oakmoss

Scent Profile:

In the heart of Paris, amidst the bustling elegance of Avenue Montaigne, I found myself enveloped in a quest for "the one" — the elusive fragrance that would captivate my senses and define sophistication. Jean Desses' salon beckoned with an air of haute couture allure, where "Celui" awaited its unveiling. As I stepped into the opulent space, a symphony of scents greeted me, each note a tantalizing clue in my olfactory journey.

The journey began with a burst of aldehydic freshness, sparkling like the crisp morning air after a rain shower. Lemon and bergamot danced playfully, their zest awakening my senses with a citrusy tang that hinted at possibilities. Alongside, the herbal nuances of marjoram and oregano added an unexpected twist, grounding the effervescence with their earthy warmth. It was as if I could taste the herbs on my tongue, their aromatic essence weaving a tapestry of intrigue.

Moving deeper into the fragrance, I encountered a lush floral heart that bloomed like a secret garden in full bloom. Rose petals unfurled delicately, their intoxicating sweetness mingling with the heady embrace of jasmine and tuberose. Gardenia added creamy richness, while violet and heliotrope infused the composition with a powdery softness that caressed the air. Each flower seemed to speak of romance and elegance, their whispers filling the space with floral opulence.

As I ventured towards the base, the scent evolved into a classic chypre symphony, a harmonious blend of timeless elegance and sensuality. Tonka bean and labdanum imparted a warm, resinous depth, while vetiver and oakmoss lent an earthy greenness that anchored the fragrance with sophistication. Civet added a hint of animalic allure, subtly enhancing the composition's complexity. I could almost feel the velvety touch of sandalwood and the musky embrace of ambergris, their presence wrapping around me like a luxurious embrace.

Amidst the whispers of couture and the murmur of silk against skin, "Celui" by Jean Desses unfolded as more than just a fragrance; it was an embodiment of timeless elegance and feminine allure. In the soft glow of Parisian light, I found "the one" I had been seeking — a perfume that resonated with the essence of sophistication, capturing the imagination with its layers of intrigue and romance.

Bottles:

"Celui" by Jean Desses, renowned for its exquisite blend of floral and chypre notes, was as much a visual masterpiece as it was an olfactory one. The fragrance was housed in a variety of flacons, each reflecting the sophisticated and artistic sensibilities of its time. Many of these bottles, designed by the esteemed Pierre Camin, were also used for other Desses scents, creating a cohesive and recognizable aesthetic across the brand's offerings.

The design of "Celui's" bottles was deeply influenced by classical Greek motifs, a nod to Jean Desses' penchant for ancient Greek art and architecture. Some bottles were reminiscent of the fluted columns seen in ancient Greek temples, their vertical grooves creating a sense of elegance and timelessness. Others featured an egg-and-dart frieze, a Neo-Classical design element that added a touch of refined ornamentation. These details not only highlighted the perfume’s luxurious nature but also connected it to a broader cultural and historical narrative.

The packaging of "Celui" further emphasized its elegance and sophistication. The bottles were presented in shades of nasturtium and white, a color scheme chosen for its fresh and refined appearance. Jean Desses himself remarked that the packaging "can be discarded with no regrets," suggesting that the true value lay in the fragrance and the beautifully designed flacons rather than the outer box.

In summary, "Celui" by Jean Desses was not just a perfume but a work of art, housed in bottles that paid homage to classical design and packaged with a modern sensibility. The variety of flacons, all derived from the original design by Pierre Camin, and the thoughtful packaging details underscored the elegance and timeless appeal of this beloved fragrance.

To assist collectors and enthusiasts in identifying the size of their "Celui" bottles, a handy guide is provided below. This guide is essential, given the variety of bottle designs and sizes available. It ensures that each collector can accurately determine the provenance and volume of their cherished flacon, whether it be a small, intricately detailed miniature or a larger, more imposing bottle that echoed the grandeur of ancient Greek architecture.

Parfum:

Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. Vintage Desses Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils, a high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water, compared to a parfum made today which may contain only 20-30 percent oils. Due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume.  

Frosted Amphora Parfum Bottles:

The parfum concentration for "Celui" was elegantly housed in a beautiful frosted glass bottle, a masterpiece of design that epitomized luxury and sophistication. This exquisite bottle, designed by Pierre Camin, was a faithful replica of an ancient Greek amphora housed in the Louvre. Its amphora shape and fluted design echoed the grandeur of Grecian columns, creating a timeless connection to classical antiquity. The frosted glass stopper added an extra touch of refinement, enhancing the overall aesthetic with its delicate and sophisticated appearance.

This iconic bottle design was not exclusive to "Celui"; it was also used for another of Jean Desses' perfumes, "Kalispera." The continuity in bottle design across different fragrances established a distinctive brand identity and underscored the designer's appreciation for classical art and architecture. All succeeding Jean Desses flacons were based on this original design, maintaining the legacy of Pierre Camin's vision.

The "Celui" bottle came in three distinct sizes, each meticulously crafted to suit various preferences. The 1/8 oz bottle featured a gilded brass screw cap, a small yet precious version of the luxurious amphora. The 1/4 oz bottle stood at 3.25 inches tall, offering a slightly larger but equally elegant option. The largest, the 1/2 oz bottle, stood at 3.75 inches, presenting a more substantial piece that still retained the delicate beauty of its smaller counterparts.

Each size of the "Celui" bottle was a testament to the artistry and craftsmanship that Jean Desses and Pierre Camin brought to their creations. The fluted design, frosted glass, and thoughtful proportions made these bottles not just containers for a fragrance, but collectible pieces of art in their own right.

 

Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon:

This is another exquisite creation under the Jean Desses brand, distinguished by its unique design and elegant form. Unlike the frosted, fluted amphora bottle designed by Pierre Camin, this version features a clear, non-frosted glass with wide melon ribbed sides, adding a distinctive texture and visual appeal. The amphora shape is preserved, maintaining the classical influence that is a hallmark of Desses' design aesthetic.

This bottle came in at least two sizes, offering options for parfum enthusiasts. The 1 oz size provided a compact, yet luxurious experience, perfect for those who desired a more portable version of their favorite fragrance. The larger 2 oz size stood as a more prominent and substantial option, ideal for those who wanted a lasting supply of the exquisite scent. Both sizes retained the elegant amphora silhouette, ensuring that the bottle was not only a vessel for fragrance but also a decorative piece that could grace any vanity.

The Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon was not exclusive to "Celui" but could be found housing other Jean Desses scents as well. This versatility in design showcased the brand's commitment to creating timeless and beautiful containers that could complement any of their luxurious fragrances. The clear glass allowed the rich color of the parfum to be visible, adding another layer of sensory appeal and making the bottle a coveted item among collectors and perfume aficionados alike.

"Evening Edition" Parfum Travel Flacon:

This bottle was a perfect blend of elegance and practicality, designed for the sophisticated woman on the go. This amphora-shaped bottle, holding 1/8 oz of precious parfum, was crafted from gilded brass, ensuring both durability and a luxurious appearance. Its leakproof design made it an ideal companion for carrying in a handbag, allowing women to have their favorite fragrance readily accessible at all times.

The presentation of the "Evening Edition" was equally as refined as the bottle itself. It came housed in a rigid case covered in luxurious antelope suede, providing a tactile sense of opulence. The interior of the case was lined with white satin, cradling the gilded bottle in a soft, elegant embrace. This exquisite packaging underscored the high-end nature of Jean Desses' creations, making it a coveted item among his clientele. These travel flacons were versatile and used for other Desses fragrances as well, showcasing the brand's dedication to combining beauty with functionality.

In 1959, the magazine Combat highlighted the latest presentation from Jean Desses: the Evening Edition bottle, gilded with fine gold and encased in a beige antelope suede case lined with midnight blue satin. This elegant packaging could be found at the Jean Desses boutique located at 12, roundabout of the Champs Elysees, an address synonymous with luxury and high fashion.

By 1963, Desses introduced the new Kalispera perfume, presented in a deliberately dark bottle equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel. This innovation emphasized the brand's commitment to ensuring their fragrances were not only beautiful but also practical for modern women who needed reliability and elegance in their accessories.

Around the same time, Realities magazine featured "Celui" from Jean Desses in an article, describing the crystal blue bottle lined and trimmed by hand with Baccarat crystal. It was framed with a gold leaf design and signed by the renowned jeweler Mauboussin, further elevating its status as a piece of art as well as a fragrance container.

Each of these presentations from Jean Desses—whether it was the "Evening Edition" travel flacon, the Kalispera perfume, or the special edition "Celui" bottle—reflected a deep appreciation for artistry, luxury, and functionality. These details not only enhanced the user experience but also solidified Jean Desses' reputation as a couturier who understood the desires of his sophisticated clientele.

Combat, 1959:

"Here is the latest of the delightful presentations that a great couturier gave to his first perfume: That of Jean Dessès. Bottle for the evening, gilded with fine gold, in a beige antelope case, lined with midnight blue satin. Can be found at the Jean Dessès boutique, 12, roundabout of the Champs Elysees."

Combat, 1963:

"The new Kalispera perfume is presented in a deliberately dark bottle, equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel."

Realities - Issues 204-209, 1963:

"Celui from Jean Dessès bottle crystal blue lined and trimmed by hand of Baccarat crystal, with leaf-shaped frame, gold, signed Mauboussin." 

 

Standard Desses Parfum Bottle:

Some of the Celui parfums are housed in tapered cylindrical shaped clear crystal bottle with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses perfumes. The 1/6 oz parfum bottle has a gilded brass screwcap so it will not leak inside the handbag. The 0.25 oz bottle has a mother of pearl type cap.

• 1/6 oz parfum purse bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall.  (originally retailed for $12.50)
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.  (originally retailed for $20)
• 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall. (originally retailed for $36)
• 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 4 oz bottle  

 

 

  

Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was a lighter version of the Desses parfum, however, its strength would be equivalent to today's Eau de Parfum concentrations. As a lighter version due to the alcohol content, it differs little from the Parfum in aroma. Vintage Desses Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. These were highly concentrated compared to today's eau de parfums which are composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils. Parfum de Toilettes usually last about 4-8 hours.

It does not have the longevity of the Parfum as it was meant to splashed liberally over the body for a refreshing effect, mainly after bath or exercise or to boost the Parfum already applied to the skin but which may have faded. Many women who love a particular perfume may find that it is a bit too overpowering to be worn during the day, but that its Parfum de Toilette are just that much lighter to make it an acceptable day perfume too.  

Glass Stoppered Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

Modified amphora shaped bottle with ground glass stoppers. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval.  These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz bottle stands 7.5" tall
• 8 oz 
• 32 oz

Plastic Stoppered Parfum de Toilette Used for Travel:

Modified amphora shaped bottle with plastic screw caps. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle stands 7" tall

Eau de Cologne Parfumee:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was a lightest version of the Desses scent which was incorporated with the classic citrus notes of a traditional eau de colognes. I believe that this concentration was equivalent to today's Eau de Toilettes. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. 

As an eau de cologne, it differs from the Parfum de Toilette in both composition and aroma. It does not have longevity as it was meant to be splashed liberally all over the body or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Glass Stoppered Bottles:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz 
• 8 oz bottle bottle stands 6" tall.
• 16 oz bottle 

 

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Flacon Pour Le Voyage:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle topped with a black plastic screw cap. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz 
• 8 oz bottle 
• 16 oz bottle stands 6" tall.

Perfume Sets:

Generally offered either as limited editions or only available during the Christmas holiday, these delightful perfume sets made excellent gifts for the traveler. 

Trousse de Voyage:

Leather Cased Travel Set composed of two bottles of clear and frosted glass, fluted, column styled fluted of demilune shape meant to fit against one another an oval leather case, each bottle has gilded brass screwcaps. The leather was available in either red or black. These were also used for other Desses fragrances. The set originally retailed for $45.  

• 0.75 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 2 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall.

Parfum & Parfum de Toilette Baccarat Flacons:

Kalispera was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles housed in a handsome jewel case luxuriously covered in antelope leather and lined with white satin. This was originally created as a gift for the new queen of King Constantine. It was offered to the public at $500 per set. The first twelve sent to the USA were purchased quickly in Dallas, but more sets were on the way to be sold nationwide. The set included two bottles: 

• Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 6" tall.
• Parfum bottle stands 5" tall.

 

Connaissance des arts, 1963:

"In its Baccarat crystal decanter, it's a classy gift. ... that can be used as a jewelry box, created by the great couturier Jean Desses."

Art Direction, 1964:

"Celui Kalispera Jean Desses. A rose by any other name. To introduce in this country a long established, expensive ...The bottle itself has been a prize winner in seven European design competitions, and is made of Baccarat crystal."

Travel Set with Atomizer:

This beautiful set includes a single crystal bottle of parfum, its leakproof screwcap and optional atomizer hardware. The set was housed inside of a brocade covered box lined with white satin.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Celui," the evocative perfume crafted by Jean Desses and Paul Vacher, has long held a mystique in the world of fragrance. Though its allure continues to captivate, its availability has become increasingly scarce over the years since its discontinuation. Once a hallmark of sophistication and elegance, "Celui" has become a rare treasure sought by collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Despite its eventual discontinuation, "Celui" maintained a presence in the perfume world well into the 20th century. As late as 1972, nearly three decades after its initial launch in 1938, traces of this iconic fragrance could still be found, lingering as a testament to its enduring appeal. Those fortunate enough to encounter it experienced a journey through time, a glimpse into an era when perfumes were crafted with meticulous artistry and a dedication to luxury.

For enthusiasts and historians of fragrance, "Celui" represents more than just a scent; it embodies a piece of olfactory history, a blend of aldehydes, floral notes, and chypre base that defined an era of sophistication. Its discontinuation added to its allure, transforming it into a coveted treasure that enthusiasts tirelessly seek in the realms of vintage perfumery.

Today, while "Celui" may be difficult to procure, its legacy lives on in the memories of those who cherished its unique blend of elegance and allure. As a symbol of timeless sophistication, it continues to inspire fascination and admiration among perfume aficionados, reminding us of an era when fragrances like "Celui" were crafted not just to scent, but to enchant and captivate the senses.