Tapestry by Mary Chess c1934

Tapestry by Mary Chess: launched in 1934.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral musky chypre fragrance for women, although I have seen this classified as an oriental. There are no published notes on this perfume, so I am using a vintage 1950s perfume nip to finish this article. A delicately mixed floral bouquet blended with subtle woodsy notes and undertones of moss.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, geranium, lily of the valley and lemon
• Middle notes: frangipani, orange blossom, violet, Bulgarian rose, jasmine and ylang ylang
• Base notes: sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, benzoin, musk, civet and ambergris

On my skin, it starts out with a very fresh citrus, peach and soapy aldehyde burst, then as it progresses into florals. I can detect Bulgarian rose, geranium and lily of the valley, giving way to a sweet jasmine, lush orange blossom, frangipani, candied violet and fruity ylang ylang heart. The base dries down to a dusty vetiver and sweetened sandalwood and balsamic benzoin, spiked with earthy patchouli and fuzzy oakmoss resting on an animalic base of musk, civet and ambergris. The sweetened florals and sandalwood hold strong for most of the perfume's life, pleasant but never gets cloying. there is a slight fecal note from the civet, just enough to give it a little skank towards the very end.

On paper, the perfume is divine, but smells fruitier and the frangipani note is intensified. The woodsy and animalic notes are muted and the oakmoss is not as strong.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Tapestry was discontinued for many years, but reformulated and relaunched as an eau de toilette in 1994 alongside Autere and Tuberose. However, Tapestry is again discontinued.