Etourdissant by Jean Desprez: launched in 1939. The name means "stunning" in French.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic floral chypre fragrance for women, it was described as "startling". It begins with green note of galbanum, sparkling aldehydes and citrus, followed by a floral heart of Bulgarian rose and jasmine, resting on a classic mossy, powdery chypre base.
The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
Housed in various bottles, but the most stunning is the exquisite Baccarat crystal flacon that looks like a diamond faceted crystal shard. The bottle was held inside of a tripod stand of translucent and green Lucite. The stand is not often found.
Discontinued, date unknown.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic floral chypre fragrance for women, it was described as "startling". It begins with green note of galbanum, sparkling aldehydes and citrus, followed by a floral heart of Bulgarian rose and jasmine, resting on a classic mossy, powdery chypre base.
- Top notes: galbanum, aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, limette, geranium
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, spices, orange blossom, clary sage, orris, opoponax
- Base notes: styrax, vanilla, myrrh, vetiver, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli, civet, amber
Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Etourdissant from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like.
I applied a few drops of the deep golden yellow extrait to my skin, and at first sniff, Etourdissant had a dry smoky opening highlighted with a sparkling aldehyde, and a twist of citrus essences of bergamot and sweet mandarin oranges. A soapy lily of the valley mixed with fresh geranium and very green galbanum followed with a floral heart of heady orange blossom, bubblegum jasmine and Bulgarian rose sprinkled with spices of cinnamon, dry coriander, nutmeg and clove. I detect the faintest traces of clary sage and orris hidden within. The powdery base features fuzzy oakmoss, myrrh, opoponax, balsamic notes of vanilla, styrax and labdanum punctuated with the woody notes of vetiver and earthy patchouli, this was layered over the creaminess of genuine Mysore sandalwood resting on animalic facets of natural musk, civet and precious ambergris.
This is a drop dead, fantastic vintage fragrance, so very hard to find, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!
La Femme Chic, 1945:
"For brunettes also (and even for very intense brunettes) the aptly named Etourdissant by Jean Desprez, based on Russian leather and chypre, which develops immediately and holds wonderfully. We recommend it for morning walks in the Bois and for cool weather."
The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
"But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Stunning by Jean Desprez: extraordinary, unexpected, marvelous...this chypre fragrance contains a fairly strong note of gardenia and amber but which fades into the velvety mosses."
Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Etourdissant from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like.
I applied a few drops of the deep golden yellow extrait to my skin, and at first sniff, Etourdissant had a dry smoky opening highlighted with a sparkling aldehyde, and a twist of citrus essences of bergamot and sweet mandarin oranges. A soapy lily of the valley mixed with fresh geranium and very green galbanum followed with a floral heart of heady orange blossom, bubblegum jasmine and Bulgarian rose sprinkled with spices of cinnamon, dry coriander, nutmeg and clove. I detect the faintest traces of clary sage and orris hidden within. The powdery base features fuzzy oakmoss, myrrh, opoponax, balsamic notes of vanilla, styrax and labdanum punctuated with the woody notes of vetiver and earthy patchouli, this was layered over the creaminess of genuine Mysore sandalwood resting on animalic facets of natural musk, civet and precious ambergris.
This is a drop dead, fantastic vintage fragrance, so very hard to find, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!
The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
"But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."
Book of Friendship, 1947:
"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."
Bottles:
Modele Pratique: The original bottle for Etourdissant was a square French crystal flacon fitted with a ground glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other early Jean Desprez perfumes: Grande Dame, Jardanel, and Votre Main. I believe this model was used during the war period as the expensive flacons were unattainable due to cost and supply restrictions. The base of the box reads "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."
The Modele Pratique bottle used for Etourdissant has a lovely paper label depicting the Baccarat crystal flacon in the shape of a faceted crystal shard. As you can see in the image on the label, the flacon rests inside of a tripod stand made up Lucite
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown.
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