Caleche by Hermes c1961

Caleche was launched by Hermes in France in 1961, it was officially launched in the USA in 1963 and imported by Alexandra de Markoff. Created by Guy Robert, it is described as a fragrance of vibrant light and magic. A classic blend of floral and woodsy scents.

Caleche (pronounced KAL-ESCH'), was named after the House’s emblematic carriage team logo. A caleche is the folding hood of a two-wheeled, horse-drawn open carriage. Caleche was reported to be the favorite fragrance of Princess Margaret of England.

"You'll lead an enchanted life if you wear Caleche!"

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with s fresh, resinous, aldehydic top accented with lilac and lily of the valley, followed by an elegant, precious floral heart composed of Bulgarian rose, iris, jasmine and gardenia, resting on a powdery, woody, balsamic base punctuated with the crisp scent of pine and patchouli and the gentle touch of musk and amber.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, lilac, cypress, orange blossom, mandarin
• Middle notes: jasmine, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, Florentine iris, gardenia, spices
• Base notes: pine, incense, vetiver, sandalwood, Persian Gulf ambergris, tonka bean, Tibetan musk, cedar, oakmoss

Opening with a burst of bright and acidic citrus note of neroli, bergamot, lemon and bold soapy aldehydes, resting on a floral heart studded with gardenia, lilac, ylang-ylang, spices, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose and jasmine, and finally drying down to its dry woody chypre afternote, emphasized by powdery iris and vanilla, musk and a deeply hidden is a leathery civet note.

Combat, 1963:

"Calèche, such a name is fertile in pleasant images: walks in the woods and among flower beds or bushes. The healthy smell of pine merges with jasmine, the rose of the Near East, the iris of Florence and the flowery tones of gardenia and lilac. Classy animal notes, such as musk from Tibet and amber from the Persian Gulf, make it a powerful composition at the start but also exceptionally tenacious."

Bottles:

Simon Xavier Guerrand-Hermes, great-great-great grandson said that Parfums Hermes wanted to keep the saddlery and leather goods tradition alive when they created their fragrances. "Even the packaging was true to our image. A case that looked like the tortoise shell we'd used in our riding accessories, in a package faced with a suede-like material."

Caleche was available in the following products:

• Parfum (1961)
• Eau de Toilette (1961)
• Eau de Cologne (1961)
• Parfum in Mock Tortoiseshell Purse Spray (first used in 1963)
• Dusting powder in Mock Tortoiseshell (first used in 1964)
• Soap in Mock Tortoiseshell (first used in 1964)
• Eau de Toilette in fluted glass bottle with atomizer (first used in 1966)
• Eau de Toilette Atomizer in beige and gold canister (first used in 1972)
• Soap (1967)
• Talc (1967)
• Bath Oil (1967)
• Dusting Powder (1967)
• Parfum de Toilette (1968)
• Foam Bath
• Body Lotion
• Shower Gel
• Shower Cream
• Velvet Body Oil Spray
• Eau Deodorant
• Bijou Spray Parfum (1989)
• Eau de Parfum (1992)
• Soie de Parfum (1992)
• Solid Perfume

c1970 ad

 

Bottles:

Presented in a flaçon designed by Jean-René Hermes and made by C Depinoix et Fils. Also available are the vintage Caleche factice bottles.

Over the years Caleche was presented in various bottles and packaging. The earliest packaging was beige with ivory trim. In the 1970s, the perfume came in a coffee-coloured flocked box. In 1981, the traditional beige and ivory Caleche box was framed in wide white bands. The new design gave the collection a more modern look, yet retained its classic lines. In the mid 1980s and into the 1990s, the boxes were a buttery yellow with gray trim.

c1961 ad

c1969 ad

In 1966, the Parfum de Toilette was introduced in a  4 oz luxury atomizer. Other items already produced were Eau de Cologne, Bath Oil, Talc de Luxe,  soap cakes and a purse sized atomizer. Many of these products were housed in faux tortoiseshell plastic containers.

c1979 ad

In 1973, new packaging was introduced and Caleche was housed in beige and gold colored containers. Body creams and Eau de Toilette were already being sold by this time.

In the 1980s, bottles were manufactured by Pochet et du Courval.

 c1987 ad

c1989 ad

By 1988, perfumed body cream and body oil spray was available in the Caleche collection. Both are intended for moisturizing use after bath or shower Creme.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1992, Caleche was reformulated with modern ingredients and to suit changing tastes.

CLICK HERE TO FIND CALECHE BY HERMES

Caleche has spawned several flankers:

• 2002 Hermes Caleche Cueillette Rose de Mai 

A limited edition that blends in more rose than the 42-year-old Caleche. Only 500 examples were produced. Disc.

• 2003 Calèche Fleurs de Méditteranée

A limited edition 'Soie de Parfum' created by Jean-Claude Ellena with notes of Moroccan mimosa, Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, violet leaf, sunflower, beeswax and heliotrope. Only 1000 examples were produced.  Disc.

• 2003 Calèche eau Délicate

A limited summer edition. Created by Fabrice Pellegrin, with notes of aldehydes, rose, jasmine, mandarin, pink pepper, black currant bud, sandalwood and white cedar. Disc.

• 2007 Kelly Calèche

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena with notes of lily of the valley, narcissus, grapefruit, tuberose, rose, mimosa, leather, benzoin and iris.

 

 2008 Kelly Caleche Extrait

An amber floral fragrance created by Jean-Claude Ellena with notes of lily of the valley, narcissus, grapefruit, tuberose, rose, mimosa, leather, benzoin and iris.

2009 Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum

Created by Jean-Claude Ellena with notes of tuberose, rose, mimosa, iris, violet, vanilla. and accords of Barenia calf leather and sheep leather.

 

• 2013 Calèche Eau de Toilette

Part of The Classic Collection. The fragrance has been repackaged in the iconic 'carriage lantern' flaçon

• 2013 Calèche Soie de Parfum

Part of The Classic Collection. The fragrance has been repackaged in the iconic 'carriage lantern' flaçon

• 2014 Calèche Soie de Parfum

A limited edition "Collection Les Classiques" bottle. The text says 'Calèche le plus "Faubourg Saint-Honoré" des parfums de Paris'. Presented in a 50 ml bottle.