Tabu by Dana c1932

Tabu by Dana was launched in 1932, an era defined by contrasting social dynamics and a burgeoning interest in luxury and sensuality. The creation of this fragrance was inspired by a rather provocative request directed to perfumer Jean Carles: to develop a scent that a prostitute might wear, termed in French as “un parfum de puta.” This phrase evokes a potent image of allure and seduction, suggesting a fragrance that embodies both daring and sophistication. In the context of perfume, this notion is appropriate; it invites the idea of a scent that is bold, unapologetically sensual, and designed to captivate and entice.

The choice of the name Tabu carries significant weight, as it reflects deeper cultural connotations. The word "taboo," originating from the Polynesian term tapu, refers to something that is prohibited or restricted due to social or cultural norms. This concept evokes images of the forbidden and the mysterious, suggesting a fragrance that challenges conventions and explores the boundaries of desire. The naming was serendipitously inspired when Javier Serra, the founder of Dana Parfums, happened upon the cover of Sigmund Freud’s book Totem and Taboo while strolling through Nice, France. This encounter resonated with the fragrance’s daring nature, offering an intellectual underpinning to its sensual character. Interestingly, in 1935, Dana also launched a perfume named Totem, further emphasizing the connection to the complexities of human desire and social boundaries.

Tabu is classified as a floral woody amber oriental fragrance for women, embodying a luxurious and rich character that is perfectly suited for the cooler months of fall and winter. The scent opens with a captivating blend of floral notes that envelop the wearer in a lush bouquet, leading into a heart that reveals deeper, warmer elements. The interplay of woody and amber notes conjures a sense of opulence and sensuality, making it a perfect companion for evenings out or intimate gatherings. The fragrance exudes confidence and sophistication, encouraging women to embrace their sensuality in a society that was gradually shifting towards greater expressions of femininity and independence.

Women of the early 1930s, navigating the post-World War I landscape, would have related to Tabu on several levels. The decade was marked by a newfound freedom for women, evidenced by the flapper movement and a growing desire for personal expression. As traditional societal roles began to shift, fragrances like Tabu offered an avenue for women to assert their identities and explore their sensuality, breaking free from the constraints of previous generations. The allure of a name like Tabu invited women to indulge in the forbidden, to embrace the mystery and intrigue associated with the scent.

Another intriguing facet of Tabu’s legacy lies in the legend that it was inspired by the painting The Kreutzer Sonata by René Prinet, which Dana Perfumes acquired for promotional purposes. This painting, along with the slogan "The longest kiss in history," further enriched the fragrance's narrative, aligning it with themes of passion and desire. The combination of artistic influence and the bold naming of Tabu positioned the perfume not just as a scent, but as a symbol of daring femininity in a time when women were beginning to reclaim their sensual identities. This narrative surrounding Tabu encapsulates a moment in history where the boundaries of social norms were increasingly tested, making the fragrance an emblem of liberation and allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody amber oriental fragrance for women. Tabu is a luxurious, rich and heavy perfume, it is perfect to wear during the fall and winter months.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange flower, basil, neroli, coriander
• Middle notes: carnation, clover, jasmine, narcissus, rose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: amber, oakmoss, vetiver, civet, sandalwood, resins, patchouli, precious woods, musk, cedar, benzoin, vanilla.

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"Tabu is often referred to in America as "The Forbidden Perfume," a name that underscores its alluring and intoxicating qualities. Its intense and tenacious scent evokes a sense of guilty temptation, contributing to its popularity in the United States. Created by Dana, this powerful fragrance is particularly well-suited for women with brunette and auburn hair, complementing the richness of their fur and locks beautifully."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Tabu by Dana is a balsamic fragrance infused with waves of amber, captivating its wearer like an enchanting spell. This distinctly feminine scent is particularly appealing to women with brunette and chestnut hair. Its exotic pepper notes enhance its allure, amplifying the seduction that this remarkable perfume embodies."

Fragrance and Wellbeing: Plant Aromatics and Their Influence on the Psyche, 2013:

"Clove was also present in the "Mellis accord", which was a widely used base in spicy oriental fragrances including Youth Dew, Opium, Tabu and Coco. The mellis accord, which makes up an important part of the fragrance here incorporates amyl salicylate in addition to benzyl salicylate, with the patchouli and hydroxycitronellal (which has a linden blossom-like, sweet, green, radiant odor), spices, woods and coumarin. Since then restrictions have been placed on some of these, so it will have been modified."

Scent Profile:

Tabu by Dana is a fragrance that envelops the senses in a luxurious, rich, and heady aroma, perfect for the colder months of fall and winter. As I experience this iconic scent firsthand, the journey begins with a burst of top notes that instantly captivate and intrigue. The sharp, zesty essence of bergamot mingles with the sweet, delicate scent of orange blossom, creating a vibrant and refreshing opening. 

The inclusion of basil adds a herbal touch, bringing a green, slightly peppery edge that contrasts beautifully with the floral sweetness. Neroli's bright, bitter-orange nuances and the warm, spicy undertones of coriander further enrich this initial bouquet, setting the stage for a complex olfactory experience.

As the top notes gradually recede, Tabu reveals its heart—a lush, floral composition that exudes warmth and sensuality. Here, the scent of carnation dominates, its spicy, clove-like aroma blending seamlessly with the earthiness of patchouli. This bold combination creates a distinctive accord that is both unique and memorable, a signature of Tabu's character. 

The floral heart is further deepened by the intoxicating scents of jasmine and narcissus, which add a rich, sweet, and slightly indolic quality. Oriental rose contributes a deep, velvety aroma, while ylang-ylang infuses the blend with its creamy, exotic sweetness. The addition of clover introduces a subtle green, herbaceous note, which balances the intensity of the other florals and spices.

The dry-down of Tabu is a warm, sensual embrace, characterized by a blend of rich base notes that linger beautifully on the skin. The presence of ambergris provides a warm, slightly salty undertone, while oakmoss brings a deep, earthy richness. Vetiver adds a smoky, woody depth, and civet imparts a musky, animalic nuance that enhances the fragrance's allure. 

The smooth, creamy scent of sandalwood, combined with the resinous, sweet tones of benzoin and vanilla, creates a comforting and enveloping finish. Precious woods, musk, and cedar add further complexity and warmth, making the base both long-lasting and deeply satisfying.

An important component of Tabu's structure is the "Mellis accord," a spicy oriental base widely used in fragrances such as Youth Dew, Opium, and Coco. This accord incorporates amyl salicylate and benzyl salicylate, which contribute a sweet, green, radiant odor reminiscent of linden blossoms. These elements, along with spices, woods, and coumarin, create a rich and multifaceted scent profile. 

Notably, Tabu features a daring 10% dose of patchouli—a groundbreaking move in the world of modern perfumery at the time of its creation. This high concentration of patchouli, combined with the pungent aroma of carnation, forms a distinctive and unforgettable accord that defines Tabu's character.

Overall, Tabu by Dana is a timeless and legendary fragrance that continues to captivate with its complex and richly layered composition. The harmonious blend of floral, woody, and amber notes, highlighted by a bold use of patchouli, makes it a true classic in the world of perfumery. As I experience each ingredient firsthand, Tabu unveils a story of sensuality, warmth, and exotic allure—a fragrance journey that is as intriguing and unforgettable as the scent itself.

Product Line:

By 1943, Tabu had expanded into a diverse product line that catered to various preferences and needs, solidifying its place in the fragrance market. The core of this line was its range of parfum options, which included several sizes to suit different occasions and budgets. Available in 1 dram, 2 dram, and 3/8 oz bottles, the parfum offered an intense, concentrated experience. For those seeking a more generous quantity, options of 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz were also available, allowing wearers to indulge in the luxurious scent of Tabu at their leisure.

In addition to the parfum, Tabu was offered in cologne form, which provided a lighter alternative while retaining the signature fragrance. Available in sizes ranging from 2 oz, 4 oz, 8 oz, 16 oz to an impressive 32 oz, this cologne made it easy for consumers to incorporate Tabu into their daily routine, whether at home or on the go.

Further enhancing the product line were the locion (efusion) offerings, available in 1 2/3 oz and 5 2/3 oz sizes, perfect for those who preferred a fragrant lotion. The inclusion of brilliantine in both liquid and solid forms added a touch of glamour, allowing users to enjoy the scent while conditioning their hair.

Tabu also ventured into body care products, featuring a fragrant soap that echoed the scent of the perfume and a body sachet available in a 7 oz size, perfect for imparting a subtle fragrance throughout the day.

The line extended to beauty products as well, offering face powders in a range of shades including Rachel, Golden Rachel, Ocre, Toastado, Sunburn No. 1, and Sunburn No. 2. These options allowed women to complement their fragrance with perfectly coordinated makeup.

Additionally, Tabu introduced a lipstick that featured a unique design—a Tabu perfume bottle as its cap, combining beauty with innovation. This product line not only celebrated the essence of Tabu but also created a cohesive experience for users, inviting them to indulge in the fragrance through various facets of their beauty and personal care routines.

Bottle Designs:

Tabu has been found packaged in a figural cello/violin bottle, a rectangular bottle and tall glass bottles.

A bottle of Tabu perfume encased with a sterling silver mounting, created for the tourist trade in Mexico. This was never released by the Dana company in the silver cagework, it is considered "after market" embellishment.

 

The Fate of the Fragrance:

In 2001, Tabu by Dana received a modern update through the skilled hands of perfumer Sophia Grojsman, renowned for her work with International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). Grojsman, known for her expertise in creating lush and enduring fragrances, approached the reformulation of Tabu with a delicate balance of respect for its original composition and the need to modernize its ingredients. The result was a refreshed version that retained the essence of Tabu—its rich, oriental character and bold sensuality—while adapting to contemporary standards and preferences. This reformulation ensured that Tabu could continue to enchant new generations of fragrance lovers, while still holding a special place in the hearts of those who cherished the original scent.

To promote the newly reformulated Tabu, Dana Perfumes chose the iconic actress Isabella Rossellini as the face of the campaign. Rossellini, known for her timeless beauty and sophistication, brought a fresh yet classic appeal to the brand. Her involvement underscored the perfume's legacy and its ongoing relevance in the world of fragrance. The advertising campaign highlighted Tabu's allure and mystique, connecting with both long-time fans and new audiences alike. Rossellini's association with the fragrance added an element of elegance and intrigue, enhancing the overall perception of Tabu as a scent that transcends time.

Despite the reformulation, Tabu has remained a beloved choice for women of all ages, continuing to captivate with its distinctive blend of notes. The vintage version of Tabu, with its original composition, is still highly regarded by fragrance enthusiasts for its complexity and depth. It serves as a testament to the perfumer's art, offering a rich sensory experience that is both nostalgic and timeless. The enduring appeal of Tabu lies in its ability to evoke a sense of luxury and sensuality, making it a staple in many women's fragrance collections.

Today, Tabu is accessible in a variety of forms, catering to different preferences and occasions. From cologne to eau de parfum, and even dusting powder and lotion, the fragrance is available at affordable prices, making it an attractive option for those who appreciate its classic scent profile. The versatility of Tabu allows it to be worn in different settings, whether one is seeking a subtle daytime fragrance or a more intense evening scent. The continued availability of Tabu in various formats ensures that its legacy lives on, offering both long-time fans and new users the opportunity to experience its unique charm.