Diable au Corps by Donatella Pecci Blunt c1990

"Le Diable au Corps" by Donatella Pecci Blunt, launched in 1990 in association with Diana da Silva Cosmétiques, entered the market during a period when the fragrance industry was characterized by a blend of opulence and innovation. The late 1980s and early 1990s saw a surge in powerful, statement-making scents, often classified as oriental or floral oriental, which were designed to leave a lasting impression. Fragrances like Calvin Klein's Obsession (1985) and Yves Saint Laurent's Opium (1977) exemplified this trend, with rich, exotic compositions that evoked a sense of mystery and allure.

"Le Diable au Corps," classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women, fit well within this prevailing trend, yet it also carried a unique narrative. The name "Le Diable au Corps," which translates from French to "Devil in the Flesh," is derived from Raymond Radiguet's autobiographical novel of the same name. The novel, published in 1923, recounts a scandalous affair between a sixteen-year-old boy and an older married woman during World War I, written with raw emotion and a sense of youthful defiance. Radiguet, a protégé and lover of Jean Cocteau, infused his work with a provocative edge that challenged societal norms.

The name "Le Diable au Corps" evokes images of forbidden passion and intense, almost rebellious desire. For women in the early 1990s, this name could resonate deeply, reflecting a period of evolving attitudes towards sexuality and independence. The phrase "Devil in the Flesh" conjures a sense of allure and danger, suggesting a perfume that embodies both sensuality and strength.

During this era, films often explored themes of romance, scandal, and the complexities of human relationships, mirroring the emotional depth found in Radiguet's novel. Titles like "Dangerous Liaisons" (1988) and "The Lover" (1992) showcased passionate, tumultuous affairs, aligning well with the seductive narrative of "Le Diable au Corps."

Women of the time period might have been drawn to a perfume named "Le Diable au Corps" for its bold and unapologetic representation of desire. It would evoke a sense of empowerment, appealing to those who saw themselves as confident and daring, unafraid to embrace their sensuality. The fragrance would likely elicit a strong response, with its name alone suggesting a captivating and memorable scent experience.

In the context of perfume, "Le Diable au Corps" could be interpreted as a call to embrace one's inner desires and express them through a luxurious, intoxicating fragrance. It would appeal to those seeking a scent that is not just a fragrance, but a statement of identity and emotion, reflecting the complexity and intensity of the human experience.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: galbanum, mandarin, marigold and peach 
• Middle notes: cinnamon, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, carnation, cardamom, coriander and French labdanum 
• Base notes: opoponax, oakmoss, patchouli, amber, vanilla, myrrh, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, civet, castoreum and musk

Scent Profile:

When experiencing the top notes of "Le Diable au Corps," the initial impression is one of vibrant freshness and vivid complexity. The galbanum emerges first with its green, resinous aroma, invoking the sensation of crushed leaves and the forest floor. This sharp, slightly bitter scent is quickly complemented by the zesty brightness of mandarin, which adds a sweet and tangy citrus layer. The fragrance then introduces the delicate, slightly herbaceous scent of marigold, blending floral and earthy tones. Finally, the juicy, velvety aroma of peach rounds out the top notes, offering a sweet, succulent warmth that balances the initial green and citrusy facets.

As the fragrance transitions to its heart, a rich and intoxicating bouquet unfolds. Cinnamon provides a warm, spicy kick, evoking a sense of coziness and intrigue. The exotic and creamy ylang-ylang adds an element of sweetness and floral depth, harmonizing beautifully with the classic elegance of rose, which imparts a timeless, romantic aura. Jasmine brings an indolic, heady quality, contributing to the perfume’s opulent floral character. The spicy, clove-like scent of carnation introduces a unique, peppery dimension, while the aromatic cardamom and coriander enhance the composition with their fresh, slightly citrusy spice. The French labdanum, with its rich, leathery, and balsamic nuances, adds a sophisticated warmth and resinous undertone, creating a complex and layered heart.

In the base notes, the fragrance settles into a deeply sensual and lasting impression. Opoponax, with its sweet, balsamic, and slightly smoky scent, intertwines with the earthy, forest-like aroma of oakmoss. The dark, earthy scent of patchouli brings a grounded, almost mystical quality, while amber adds a warm, resinous glow. Vanilla provides a comforting, creamy sweetness that softens the overall composition. The ancient, resinous scent of myrrh adds a touch of depth and spirituality, while sandalwood introduces a creamy, woody smoothness. The slightly smoky, aromatic Virginia cedar enhances the woody backbone of the fragrance. Animalic notes of civet, castoreum, and musk infuse a primal, sensual richness, creating a lingering, seductive aura that leaves a memorable trail.

Together, these ingredients form a fragrance that is both multifaceted and harmonious, balancing fresh, spicy, floral, and deeply sensual elements. "Le Diable au Corps" invites you into a world of forbidden passion and sophisticated allure, capturing the essence of a floral oriental masterpiece.

Bottle:

The bottle design for "Le Diable au Corps," crafted by the renowned Pierre Dinand in 1989, is a testament to both elegance and precision. Its rectangular, semi-precious styled silhouette exudes a sense of refined luxury, capturing the eye with its clean, angular lines. The bottle's design is both modern and timeless, reflecting the sophisticated allure of the fragrance it houses.

At the center of the bottle, an angular feature draws attention, adding a dynamic visual element that breaks the symmetry in a compelling way. This central angularity not only enhances the bottle's aesthetic appeal but also symbolizes the bold and daring nature of the fragrance itself. The clear-cut, stoppered bottle allows the golden hue of the perfume to shine through, creating a beautiful interplay of light and liquid that suggests the preciousness of the contents.

Manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, a company with a storied history of excellence in glassmaking, the bottle's craftsmanship is evident in its flawless execution. The glass is impeccably clear and polished, with each edge and facet precisely cut to reflect light in a way that amplifies its luxurious appearance. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the bottle is not only a container for the fragrance but also a statement piece in its own right.

The plastic components, supplied by INCA, seamlessly integrate with the glass design, maintaining the high standard of quality and aesthetic cohesion. These components, likely including the stopper and any additional decorative elements, are designed to complement the bottle's overall look without detracting from its elegance. The use of high-quality plastic ensures durability while preserving the visual appeal of the bottle.

Together, the design and manufacturing elements of "Le Diable au Corps" bottle create an object of desire that mirrors the sensual and sophisticated nature of the fragrance within. It stands as a beautiful example of the collaboration between designer and manufacturer, resulting in a product that is as pleasing to the eye as the scent is to the nose. The bottle's presence on a vanity or dresser promises an experience of luxury and indulgence every time it is reached for.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND DIABLE AU CORPS PERFUME BY DONATELLA PECCI BLUNT