Tweed by Lentheric c1933

The launch of Tweed by Lentheric in 1933 coincided with a transformative period in social norms and women's roles. The early 1930s marked an era when women were increasingly breaking traditional stereotypes by participating in outdoor sports and leisure activities that were previously considered predominantly male domains. This cultural shift reflected a broader movement towards female empowerment and independence.

Naming a perfume "Tweed" during this time was a strategic choice for Lentheric. Tweed fabric itself symbolizes durability, ruggedness, and a connection to outdoor pursuits like hunting and horseback riding, which were gaining popularity among women. By associating the perfume with tweed, Lentheric captured the essence of these outdoor activities while adding an element of sophistication and elegance.

The name "Tweed" also resonated with the evolving perceptions of femininity in the early 20th century. It represented a blend of adventurous spirit with refined taste, appealing to women who sought fragrances that mirrored their newfound freedom and active lifestyles. This alignment with outdoor sports and leisure further positioned Tweed as a scent that embodied both strength and grace, catering to women embracing unconventional roles and activities.

The export of Tweed under the name "Risque Tout" to Europe, Central, and South America underscored Lentheric's strategic approach to adapt to local markets while maintaining the essence of the brand. "Risque Tout," translating to "risk it all," suggested a daring and adventurous spirit, aligning perfectly with the perfume's association with outdoor sports and the evolving attitudes towards femininity globally.

In summary, launching Tweed by Lentheric in 1933 was not only timely but also reflective of broader societal changes. The perfume's name and concept tapped into the growing trend of women participating in outdoor activities, offering them a fragrance that celebrated both their strength and elegance during a transformative era in history.

 

Trivia:

Tweed was "a featured maiden voyage perfume of the SS Normandie" which arrived in New York on June 3, 1935.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original scent was a mossy fougere/chypre perfume with a distinctive herbal lavender note. It begins with a fresh, flowery, fruity top, followed by a classic floral heart, resting on a powdery base.

• Top notes: marjoram, wild berries, fern, bergamot, neroli, fruity note, orange, thyme, geranium and violet
• Middle notes: arnica, rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, narcissus, lilac, ylang-ylang, lavender, orange flower and magnolia 
• Base notes: tobacco blossom, musk, styrax, honey, cinnamon, sandalwood, civet, leather, oakmoss, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla and vetiver

"Free, open stretches of heather or country meadow - the playful tug of wind - the friendly sun - a crisp tang in the air - a joy of living! Of such is the essence of Tweed, Parfum Exquis by Lentheric."

Combat, 1953:

"Tweed by Lentheric - Chypre, fern, tobacco flower, mosses and wild berries, with stealthy touches of thyme, marjoram, lavender and a hint of arnica. This "extra dry" fragrance takes us from the golf green of a fashionable resort to a polo match. Elegant sports atmosphere, polished lawns, flowery bars where you can easily pick up the British accent. Horizons where stands out, on the misty forests, the alert silhouette of a young woman followed by her caddy folded under the reeds."

Scent Profile:

As you experience Tweed by Lentheric, each layer of its composition evokes the spirit of women and outdoor sports in the 1930s, starting with the top notes. Picture yourself on open heather or a sunny country meadow, where the first impression of marjoram and wild berries captures the fresh, invigorating essence of nature. The bergamot and neroli add a citrusy brightness, reminiscent of the crisp tang in the air on a breezy day. Fruity nuances and the herbaceous quality of thyme and fern evoke the playful energy of outdoor activities, like a lively game of tennis or a leisurely walk through a garden.

Moving to the heart of the perfume, you encounter a classic floral bouquet that reflects elegance and femininity amid the outdoors. Imagine the scent of roses and jasmine intertwined with carnation and ylang-ylang, surrounded by the earthy sweetness of orris and the delicate allure of narcissus and orange flower. Lavender adds a herbal twist, grounding the fragrance with its calming yet aromatic presence, reminiscent of lavender fields swaying in the breeze.

As Tweed settles into its base notes, the warmth and depth of its character deepen, much like the woody base notes of sandalwood and vetiver. These evoke the sturdy yet graceful qualities of aged oak trees or the rich soil underfoot during a countryside stroll. Patchouli and orris root lend a powdery elegance, while benzoin and musk impart a subtle sweetness and sensuality. A touch of civet adds an animalic allure, hinting at the wearer's untamed spirit amid the refined backdrop of sporting elegance.

On paper, Tweed reveals its mossy facets prominently, akin to the lush greenery of a forest glade or the soft cushion of moss underfoot. However, on the skin, the floral notes bloom more vividly, painting a portrait of femininity intertwined with the vigor of outdoor pursuits. It's a fragrance that harmonizes the natural world with the sophistication of women embracing leisure and sport in the early 20th century, capturing moments of joy, freedom, and the thrill of adventure in every spritz.

Bottles:

Tweed by Lentheric emerges as a testament to 1930s luxury amidst the backdrop of the Great Depression, blending opulence with practicality in its presentation. The parfum (extrait) was originally housed in a substantial crystal bottle, designed to emulate a Japanese "Koro" incense burner—a choice that speaks to the era's fascination with exoticism and fine craftsmanship. This bottle featured an inner glass stopper, topped with a wooden overcap, adding a tactile and aesthetic richness to the packaging. The name "Tweed" was elegantly silkscreened in black enamel serigraphy on the front, emphasizing its refined appeal.

In a time marked by economic hardship, Tweed's packaging was a statement of indulgence and sophistication, offering a tactile pleasure that transcended mere functionality. The choice of a crystal bottle, though not crafted by Baccarat as previously believed, upheld the standard of luxury expected in perfume presentation during that period. Its later iterations, with plastic or metal screw caps replacing the original glass stoppers, reflected both evolving manufacturing capabilities and cost-conscious adjustments without compromising on style.

This meticulous attention to detail in Tweed's packaging mirrored the perfume's composition itself—a blend of mossy fougère and chypre notes with herbal lavender accents. These scents, enriched by the perfume's lush floral heart and warm, woody base, evoke an era where elegance and resilience intertwined. The fragrance and its exquisite bottle encapsulated a moment when indulgence served as a form of escapism and a reminder of enduring beauty amidst challenging times.

Tweed by Lentheric, with its distinctive bottle and captivating scent, not only captured the essence of 1930s luxury but also stood as a testament to craftsmanship and aesthetic allure during a period defined by economic hardship and societal change. It remains a cherished artifact of perfume history, embodying the resilience and refinement that characterized luxury goods of the era.

If you find yourself with a Tweed by Lentheric bottle missing its label or hang tag indicating its size, you can use this guide based on the approximate height of the bottle from the base to the top of the stopper. The design of the stopper evolved over the years, which may slightly affect the overall height, but here's a general guide based on typical dimensions:

• 1/8 oz: Approximately 1.75 inches tall
• 1/4 oz: Approximately 2 inches tall
• 1/2 oz: Approximately 2.25 inches tall
• 1 oz: Approximately 3 inches tall
• 2 oz: Approximately 3.25 inches tall
• 4 oz: Size information typically unavailable in this guide
• 8 oz: Approximately 4.75 inches tall

These measurements provide a helpful reference if you're trying to determine the size of your Tweed perfume bottle based on its physical dimensions alone. The variations in stopper design, from original two-part constructions to later single-block styles, may slightly influence these heights but typically do not significantly alter them. This guide ensures you can approximate the bottle's volume based on its height, aiding in identification and understanding of your vintage Tweed perfume packaging.

Luxury during the Depression:

To evaluate the affordability of Tweed by Lentheric during the Great Depression in 1936, let's consider these prices in the context of inflation adjusted to 2024, and also compare them against the economic conditions of the time. Firstly, let's adjust these prices for inflation to 2024 using the Consumer Price Index (CPI) as a measure of inflation:

Parfum in Dram (1/8 oz):

• 1936 price: 85 cents
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $16.61

Parfum Purse size:

• 1936 price: $1.25
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $24.47

Parfum 1/4 oz:

• 1936 price: $2.25
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $44.07

Parfum 1/2 oz:

• 1936 price: $4.00
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $78.34

Parfum 1 oz:

• 1936 price: $7.00
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $137.25

Parfum 2 oz:

• 1936 price: $12.50
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $245.70

Parfum 8 oz:

• 1936 price: $27.50
• Inflation adjusted to 2024: Approximately $539.73

Now, considering the economic context of the Great Depression, these prices were relatively high for luxury goods. The Great Depression was characterized by widespread unemployment, poverty, and economic hardship, making discretionary spending on luxury items like perfumes a challenge for many households. The average annual income during the 1930s was significantly lower than today, with fewer households having disposable income for non-essential purchases.

While these perfumes were certainly luxurious and likely affordable to wealthier individuals or families, they would have been considered expensive by the majority of the population. The lower-priced options, such as the dram and purse size, were comparatively more accessible but still represented a significant expenditure relative to household budgets at the time.

In conclusion, while Tweed by Lentheric offered a range of sizes in its parfum concentration to accommodate different budgets, its prices in 1936 were reflective of its status as a luxury item. They were attainable for those with discretionary income during the Great Depression but would have been considered costly by many amidst the economic challenges of the era.

Czech Controlled Bubble Glass Bottles:

The alternative bottle used for the Parfum concentration of Tweed by Lentheric, introduced in 1935, exudes a distinct charm and craftsmanship typical of the era. Crafted in Czechoslovakia, this controlled bubble glass bottle showcases intricate details that enhance its allure. Standing at a height of 4 inches, the bottle is adorned with a glass dauber, which adds a touch of elegance and practicality to its design.

What sets this bottle apart is its variety of colors, each chosen to complement and enhance the essence of different perfumes by Lentheric. For Tweed specifically, the bottle was presented in a sophisticated champagne hue, reflecting the perfume's refined and timeless character. The use of colored glass—cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, and various shades of green for other scents like Le Pirate and Foret Vierge—was not only aesthetically pleasing but also served to distinguish each fragrance within the Lentheric collection.

The mirror-like clear glass for Asphodele, amber for Numero Douze, and orchid for Gardenia de Tahiti further demonstrate Lentheric's attention to detail in matching bottle color to fragrance personality. This approach not only enhanced the visual appeal of the bottles but also contributed to the overall luxurious experience of using Lentheric perfumes.

In summary, the Czechoslovakian glass bottle used for Tweed's Parfum concentration in the 1930s stands as a testament to both the artistry of its craftsmanship and Lentheric's dedication to presenting their perfumes in containers that were not only functional but also exquisite works of a

Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

 

In 1936, Lentheric introduced a series of exquisite crystal bottles crafted by Orrefors of Sweden to house their prestigious perfumes: Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti, and Miracle. These bottles were a testament to both artistic craftsmanship and luxury presentation during the era. Each bottle featured a unique etched design on its front, adding a touch of individuality and elegance to the packaging. Topping these crystal vessels were frosted glass spire-like stoppers, further enhancing their aesthetic appeal and luxury allure.

Despite their association with Lentheric, these Orrefors bottles often lack visible markings, as they were primarily identified by hang tags that have typically been lost over time. This lack of visible branding has led many to overlook the connection between these exquisite bottles and Lentheric's prestigious perfumes. The packaging was completed with a vaulted top box covered in silver and blue paper, underscoring the attention to detail and luxurious presentation synonymous with Lentheric's offerings.

Orrefors, renowned for its high-quality glass and crystal creations since its founding in 1898, epitomizes Swedish craftsmanship and design excellence. Collaborating with Lentheric to produce these bespoke crystal bottles not only showcased Orrefors' mastery but also aligned perfectly with Lentheric's commitment to offering perfumes of exceptional quality and presentation. These bottles not only housed precious scents but also stood as timeless examples of the marriage between artistry and luxury in the realm of perfumery packaging during the early 20th century.

Bouquet Lentheric:

"Bouquet Lentheric" represents a enduring cologne renowned for its longevity, offered in a diverse array of bottle sizes and shapes.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1992, Tweed underwent a reformulation overseen by Arthur Burnham and was reintroduced in collaboration with Yardley, a distinguished name in fine fragrances and cosmetics.

This version is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange and violets
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lilac and magnolia 
• Base notes: sandalwood, civet and leather 

The 1992 reformulation of Tweed is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance tailored for women. This iteration of Tweed unfolded with a harmonious blend of notes:

Top notes: The fragrance opens with a refreshing and citrusy bouquet featuring bergamot, neroli, and orange, complemented by the delicate floralcy of violets.

Middle notes: At its heart, Tweed reveals a rich tapestry of floral notes, including rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, lilac, and magnolia. These blossoms intertwine to create a sophisticated and feminine bouquet.

Base notes: The fragrance concludes with a warm and sensual base composed of sandalwood, which imparts a creamy and woody essence, alongside the animalic allure of civet and the supple richness of leather.

This reformulated version of Tweed maintained its timeless appeal while adapting to contemporary tastes, offering a fragrance that balanced floral elegance with a subtle yet distinctive aldehydic character.

The version sold today is by Taylor of London. It is not the exact formula as the discontinued version by Lentheric.