Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin c1934

Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin, launched in 1934, emerged during a period marked by a blend of pre-war optimism and the lingering shadows of the Great Depression. The early 1930s were a time when the world was grappling with economic instability, but Paris remained a beacon of cultural and artistic vibrancy. This period saw the rise of glamorous nightlife, with the city’s fashion and fragrance industries flourishing amid the economic challenges. Parisian society was captivated by the allure of luxury, which was a stark contrast to the widespread austerity. Lubin's choice of "Nuit de Longchamp" for the perfume reflects the enchanting and sophisticated atmosphere of the Parisian night.

The French phrase "Nuit de Longchamp" translates to "Night of Longchamp" in English. This name is a nod to the Longchamp area in Paris, known for its elegant and high-society associations. The name evokes the image of a night filled with luxury and exclusivity, perhaps linked to the grandeur of the Longchamp racetrack, which was a popular destination for the Parisian elite. By naming the perfume "Nuit de Longchamp," Lubin effectively connected the fragrance to a sense of high-class sophistication and nighttime allure, suggesting an evening of opulence and charm.

The name "Nuit de Longchamp" would have been especially appealing to women of the time who embraced elegance and luxury. These women, likely part of the Parisian upper class or those who aspired to its ideals, would have seen the perfume as a symbol of their refined taste and social status. The fragrance would resonate with them as a means to express their sophisticated lifestyle and to immerse themselves in the glamour of Parisian nightlife.

The images and feelings evoked by "Nuit de Longchamp" include a sense of mystery and romance, intertwined with the elegance of Paris at night. The term conjures up visions of elegant soirées, chic gatherings, and a world of refined beauty. It suggests an evening where one could immerse themselves in the grandeur of high society, surrounded by luxurious fabrics, sparkling chandeliers, and the rich ambiance of Parisian sophistication. This evocative name perfectly suited the time period, capturing the essence of a luxurious night out in Paris and appealing to women who desired to embody that grandeur through their fragrance.

From Lubin:

"Nuit de Longchamp has graced the shoulders of elegant women since 1934, like a magnificent garden of white flowers blooming in the twilight. From the African shores of the Mediterranean and the Ottoman gardens, only the most precious flowers and balsams are used."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was originally classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women with a dominant notes of heady jasmine, rose and lilacs on a woodsy sandalwood base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lilac, violet, clove
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, heliotrope, iris, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, patchouli
• Base notes: ambergris, benzoin, musk, vanilla, labdanum, tonka bean, sandalwood and oakmoss

Fodor's France, 1951:

"Lubin, 11, Rue Royale. "Envie" — fresh and sharp, for the young and modern; "Fumee" — woodsy, for sports; "Nuit de Longchamp" — elegant, for evening. Molinard, 21, rue Royale. "Le Baiser du Faune" — -warm, flowery; "Les Iles d'or"— jasmine base."

Product Line:

The original fragrance Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin was a true embodiment of elegance, offered in a comprehensive range of formats that catered to various preferences and occasions. Each product in the lineup was crafted to enhance the olfactory experience and provide a touch of sophistication to daily rituals.

Parfum was the pinnacle of luxury in this collection. As the most concentrated form of the fragrance, it was housed in ornate bottles that reflected its exclusivity and richness. The parfum provided a powerful and long-lasting scent experience, perfect for special occasions or intimate gatherings where a subtle yet memorable presence was desired.

Parfum de Toilette offered a lighter alternative to the pure parfum, intended for more frequent use. It maintained the essence of Nuit de Longchamp but in a more subdued concentration, making it ideal for daytime wear or as a delicate enhancement to one's personal scent.

Eau de Toilette was designed for everyday use, providing a refreshing and less intense version of the fragrance. This form was likely housed in elegant glass bottles that allowed for easy application throughout the day, making it a practical choice for women who wished to enjoy the fragrance in a more casual and versatile manner.

Eau de Cologne represented a more diluted and lighter expression of Nuit de Longchamp. Typically presented in larger bottles, it was designed for generous application and was suitable for use as a refreshing splash, particularly after bathing. This format offered a more subtle hint of the fragrance, making it an accessible option for daily use.

Bath Oil infused the bathing experience with the luxurious scent of Nuit de Longchamp. This product was designed to dissolve in water, releasing its fragrance and moisturizing properties as one bathed. The bath oil added an extra layer of indulgence to the daily routine, transforming an ordinary bath into a sensory escape.

Powder provided a delicate and soft touch of the fragrance. This product, often presented in beautifully designed boxes or tins, was meant to be applied to the skin after bathing. It offered a subtle and lingering scent while also serving to absorb moisture and keep the skin smooth.

Soap was a practical yet luxurious way to incorporate the fragrance into everyday life. With its rich lather and aromatic qualities, it turned the simple act of washing into a fragrant and pampering experience. The soap likely carried the signature scent of Nuit de Longchamp, leaving a gentle, lingering fragrance on the skin.

Each product in the Nuit de Longchamp range was meticulously crafted to cater to different facets of daily life, ensuring that the luxurious and captivating essence of the fragrance could be enjoyed from morning to night. The diverse offerings reflected the brand's commitment to providing a complete sensory experience, allowing users to indulge in the elegance of Nuit de Longchamp in various forms.

Bottles:

The original parfum of Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin was presented in a bottle whose design is attributed to the renowned French designer Pierre d’Avesn and was crafted by the prestigious Verrières Brosse. Pierre d’Avesn, known for his innovative and elegant designs in glass, created a bottle that reflected the luxurious and sophisticated nature of the fragrance. The bottle’s design would have likely featured refined lines and an ornate shape, aligning with the opulent aesthetic of the early 1930s. The craftsmanship by Verrières Brosse, a highly respected glassmaker of the time, ensured that the bottle was not only a vessel for the parfum but also a statement piece of art. This collaboration resulted in a bottle that was both functional and visually stunning, embodying the essence of Nuit de Longchamp and enhancing the overall luxury experience of the fragrance.

The photo collage below shows all the different bottles which were used to hold the various vintage Nuit de Longchamp fragrance concentrations.

In the 1960s and 1970s, the presentation of the toilet water version of Nuit de Longchamp underwent a distinct transformation. It was housed in a white opaline bottle that was decorated with the classic French fabric pattern known as toile de Jouy. This pattern, characterized by its intricate, pastoral scenes and delicate blue or red enamel detailing, gave the bottle a touch of vintage charm and a nod to French elegance. The use of opaline glass, known for its milky translucence and soft sheen, added a layer of sophistication and visual appeal to the bottle. The toile de Jouy decoration, with its historical and decorative associations, imbued the bottle with a sense of timelessness and nostalgia, bridging the gap between classic and contemporary aesthetics. This design choice highlighted the enduring appeal of Nuit de Longchamp and its ability to adapt to different eras while maintaining its refined character.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1956, Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin underwent a significant reformulation, likely in response to the evolving tastes of the post-war era. The 1950s were characterized by a resurgence of luxury and sophistication, with contemporary fragrance preferences shifting towards lighter, more accessible scents. The reformulation would have been aimed at modernizing the fragrance to align with these new preferences, possibly introducing a fresher, more youthful composition while retaining the essence of the original perfume. This update would have included adjustments to the fragrance's notes, making it more appealing to the tastes of the post-war consumer. Additionally, a cologne version was released in the same year, expanding the range and offering a more versatile, lighter option for everyday wear. This move demonstrated Lubin's commitment to adapting to market trends while still honoring the classic allure of Nuit de Longchamp.

Exclusively Yours, 1973:

"After an absence of 4 years, the fabled French fragrances of LUBIN have returned. Now residing in their many forms exclusively at Shaxted in Milwaukee. Welcome, the pure sophistication of Nuit de Longchamp Eau de Toilette in atomizer or splash."

In 1973, Nuit de Longchamp was reintroduced with renewed emphasis on its timeless sophistication. The fragrance's return was marked by the announcement that Lubin's famed French fragrances, after a four-year hiatus, were once again available exclusively at Shaxted in Milwaukee. This revival was a testament to the enduring appeal of Nuit de Longchamp and its continued relevance in the luxury fragrance market. The Eau de Toilette, available in both atomizer and splash formats, was presented as a symbol of pure sophistication, reflecting the high standards and elegance that had defined Lubin's offerings. The atomizer, with its convenient and stylish application, catered to a modern audience seeking ease of use, while the splash bottle evoked a sense of classic charm and indulgence.

By the late 1980s, the vintage versions of Nuit de Longchamp were discontinued, marking the end of an era for this iconic fragrance. The discontinuation of these classic editions reflected broader trends in the fragrance industry, where even beloved classics sometimes gave way to new innovations and changing consumer preferences. The end of Nuit de Longchamp’s vintage run was a poignant moment for fragrance enthusiasts and collectors, signaling the conclusion of a chapter in the storied history of Lubin's contributions to the world of perfume. Despite its discontinuation, the legacy of Nuit de Longchamp continues to be remembered fondly by those who experienced its sophisticated allure.

2008 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2008, Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin was relaunching into the modern fragrance landscape, now reimagined as a floral chypre eau de parfum. This new iteration was designed to evoke the elegance and sophistication of the original scent while aligning with contemporary fragrance trends. The floral chypre classification emphasized a harmonious blend of floral and woody notes, offering a complex and multi-dimensional fragrance experience. The eau de parfum concentration ensured a more intense and long-lasting scent, suitable for modern tastes that favor both luxury and longevity in their fragrances.

However, around 2009, the fragrance had to undergo another reformulation to comply with the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) regulations. These regulations were established to address safety concerns related to certain ingredients used in perfumes. For Nuit de Longchamp, this reformulation meant the exclusion of oakmoss, a key component in the original chypre formula that contributes to its signature earthy and woody base. Additionally, other ingredients that were part of the original composition were also removed or altered. As a result, the reformed Nuit de Longchamp, while still classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women, reflected a somewhat different olfactory profile.

The updated version retained the core floral and chypre elements but adapted to the new regulatory standards, which ensured safety while maintaining the essence of sophistication and elegance associated with the fragrance. This reformulation marked a significant adaptation in the fragrance’s history, balancing the need to uphold tradition with the necessity of meeting contemporary safety standards. Despite the changes, the modern Nuit de Longchamp continued to appeal to those who appreciated its refined floral chypre character, now adapted for a new generation of perfume enthusiasts.

• Top notes: Sicilian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, nutmeg, cardamom 
• Middle notes: ylang-ylang, Turkish rose, jasmine, Florentine iris
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, broom absolute, patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Tolu and Peruvian balsam, labdanum, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

The relaunch of Nuit de Longchamp as a floral chypre eau de parfum in 2008 featured a sophisticated blend of top, middle, and base notes, creating a fragrance that was both complex and elegant. The top notes of the fragrance introduced an invigorating and fresh opening. Sicilian bergamot provided a bright and citrusy burst, infusing the scent with a zesty and vibrant energy. Complementing this were Tunisian orange blossom, which contributed a delicate, sweet, and slightly fruity floral note, and nutmeg and cardamom, which added a warm and spicy nuance. Together, these top notes created a captivating and dynamic beginning to the fragrance.

As the scent developed, the middle notes emerged, revealing the heart of Nuit de Longchamp. Ylang-ylang offered a rich, exotic floral aroma with creamy and slightly fruity undertones, enhancing the fragrance's sensuality. Turkish rose added depth with its classic, lush, and romantic floral scent, while jasmine introduced a heady and intoxicating quality, enhancing the fragrance's sophistication. The inclusion of Florentine iris brought a soft, powdery elegance and a hint of earthy sophistication, rounding out the floral heart of the perfume.

The base notes of Nuit de Longchamp provided a lasting and complex foundation. Mysore sandalwood lent a warm, creamy, and woody richness that formed the backbone of the scent. Broom absolute contributed a subtle, sweet, and slightly hay-like aroma, adding a unique touch to the composition. Patchouli introduced an earthy, woody depth that enhanced the fragrance's complexity. Haitian vetiver added a smoky, green, and slightly woody nuance, complementing the other base elements. Tolu and Peruvian balsam offered a resinous, sweet, and balsamic quality, enhancing the fragrance's richness. Labdanum contributed a warm, leathery, and slightly sweet note, while oakmoss added a classic chypre touch with its earthy, woody, and slightly musty character. This combination of base notes provided a sophisticated and enduring finish, leaving a memorable and luxurious trail.

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