Taglio by Lucien Lelong c1945

Lucien Lelong's fragrance "Taglio" has an interesting history. Originally launched in 1928 as "Parfum N," it was later renamed "Taglio" for the US market in 1945. This renaming could have been part of a strategic marketing effort to better appeal to American consumers during the post-war era, a period when French perfumes were particularly sought after. Lucien Lelong, a prominent French couturier and perfumer, was known for his elegant and sophisticated fragrances, and "Taglio" is likely reflective of his signature style, characterized by a blend of classic and innovative elements.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is a light, aldehydic floral perfume for women with chypre notes of dry woods and peppered with pungent spices.

• Top notes: galbanum, aldehydes, bergamot, lilac, fig leaf, narcissus, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, galbanum 
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, lily of the valley, magnolia, carnation, violet, ylang ylang, rose, iris
• Base notes: tea, orris, patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, tonka bean

Comprehensive Scent Profile:

"Taglio" by Lucien Lelong is a complex and sophisticated fragrance, offering a rich tapestry of scents through its well-balanced combination of notes. Here's a detailed breakdown of its composition:

• Top Notes: The fragrance opens with a fresh and invigorating burst of green and spicy elements. The green, resinous quality of galbanum pairs with the crispness of aldehydes and bergamot. The floral notes of lilac and narcissus add a delicate touch, while fig leaf brings a subtle, fruity nuance. Spices like nutmeg, cloves, and ginger provide warmth and complexity right from the start.

• Middle Notes: The heart of the fragrance is a lush bouquet of florals. Carnation and jasmine bring a spicy, sweet aroma, while lily of the valley and magnolia add a creamy, fresh quality. Violet and rose contribute a powdery, romantic scent, and ylang ylang adds a rich, exotic sweetness. Iris imparts an elegant, powdery note, enhancing the floral symphony.

• Base Notes: The dry down reveals a deeper, more grounded character with its woody and earthy elements. Tea and orris create a refined, slightly sweet undertone. Patchouli, sandalwood, and cedar add warmth and depth, while vetiver and oakmoss give an earthy, mossy dimension. Ambergris introduces a marine, slightly salty nuance, and tonka bean adds a creamy, slightly sweet finish.

Overall, "Taglio" is a light, aldehydic floral perfume for women, enriched with chypre notes of dry woods and spiced with pungent elements. Its sophisticated blend of florals, spices, and woods creates a timeless and elegant scent, making it a memorable and classic fragrance.

Factory Management and Maintenance, 1946:

"Rest your mind a moment and think about Mrs. Tycoon, and how wonderful she will think you are if you give her perfume this Christmas. For instance, Taglio — the beautiful new Lucien Lelong fragrance. It's really quite something; not exactly!"

Motion Picture, 1946:

"Taglio, a sparkling new Lucien Lelong perfume, exquisitely packaged. $19 and $28."

In 1946, "Taglio" by Lucien Lelong was promoted as a luxurious and highly desirable fragrance, appealing to those looking for a sophisticated and elegant gift. Here's a glimpse of how it was presented in contemporary publications:

Factory Management and Maintenance, 1946: The promotion emphasizes the idea of impressing someone special, suggesting that "Mrs. Tycoon" would find the gift of "Taglio" to be particularly wonderful. The description highlights the fragrance as something exceptional and noteworthy, suggesting a unique and sophisticated character with the phrase, "not exactly!" This likely implies that "Taglio" stands out from other fragrances, offering something distinctive and special.

The advertisement in "Motion Picture" magazine describes "Taglio" as a "sparkling new" fragrance from Lucien Lelong, emphasizing its fresh and exciting nature. The mention of exquisite packaging suggests that the presentation of the perfume is as luxurious as the scent itself. The prices, $19 and $28, indicate that it was positioned as a premium product, making it a high-end gift choice.

These descriptions from 1946 reflect the marketing strategy of positioning "Taglio" as a glamorous and high-quality fragrance, appealing to discerning customers looking for an elegant and memorable gift. The emphasis on luxury, uniqueness, and beautiful packaging aligns with the sophisticated image of Lucien Lelong's brand.

Bottles:

The packaging of "Taglio" by Lucien Lelong was as carefully considered as the fragrance itself, emphasizing elegance and sophistication through its design. Here's a detailed description of the bottle:

Bottle Design:

• The bottle for "Taglio" is made of clear crystal, which adds a touch of luxury and refinement. The simplicity of the rectangular shape aligns with the elegant and understated aesthetics often associated with high-end perfumes.

• The bottle features the double L logo, which is a signature of Lucien Lelong's brand. For "Taglio," this logo is encased within a molded rectangle, giving it a framed appearance that highlights the branding prominently.

Stopper:

• The stopper is a flat rectangular piece of ground glass. This choice of material and design complements the crystal bottle, maintaining the overall sophisticated and classic look.

Historical Context:

• Originally, this bottle design was used for another Lucien Lelong perfume, "Elle Elle." However, for "Taglio," the addition of the rectangular frame around the double L logo distinguishes it and adds a unique touch specific to this fragrance.

This packaging design reflects Lucien Lelong's attention to detail and commitment to creating not just a perfume, but an experience of luxury and elegance. The use of high-quality materials and the thoughtful design elements make "Taglio" not only a memorable fragrance but also a beautiful item to display.

If your bottle is missing its label and you need to know the capacity, use my handy guide below:

• No. 1 = 1/4 oz bottle stands 1.5' tall.
• No. 2 = 1/2 oz bottle stands 1.75" tall.
• No. 3 = 1 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall. 
• No. 3A = 1.5 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 7 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall.
• No. 2800 = gift set holding 1 oz Parfum & 2 oz Eau de Toilette, box measures 8" x 4.75" x 2.5."

The presentation of Lucien Lelong's "Taglio" extended beyond the elegant crystal bottle to its innovative and visually striking packaging, which played a significant role in its appeal. Here's a detailed description of the presentation box:

Modern Presentation Box:

• The box was crafted from clear plastic, a material considered very modern and cutting-edge at the time. This choice of material gave the packaging a contemporary and luxurious feel, aligning with the sophisticated nature of the perfume.

• The box was made using both metalized and flocked acetate sheeting, which created a shimmering, bubble-like effect. This unique texture and visual effect added a touch of glamour and intrigue to the packaging.

Design and Production:

• The presentation box was produced by the New York firm, Emet Plastics Corp. This collaboration highlights the importance of innovative packaging design in the marketing of luxury goods.

• The same acetate theme was used for the matching dusting powder box, ensuring a cohesive and elegant presentation for the entire product line.

Decorative Elements:

• The top of the box featured a shadowbox effect, which created depth and visual interest. Inside this shadowbox, pink foil flowers and green leaves were arranged, adding a delicate and beautiful decorative touch.

• These floral elements complemented the feminine and luxurious nature of the perfume, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal.

This modern and artistic packaging design was not only visually stunning but also served to elevate the perception of "Taglio" as a high-end, desirable fragrance. The innovative use of materials and the attention to decorative detail made it a standout product in the market and a memorable gift for those who received it.

Over time, the unique plastic boxes that housed Lucien Lelong's "Taglio" have often succumbed to various forms of deterioration. Here are some of the common issues that affect these vintage packaging materials:

Color Changes:

• The thin acetate sheets used in the boxes tend to discolor over time. They can shift from their original clear or shimmering appearance to a grey, yellowed, or even brownish hue. This discoloration is often due to exposure to light, air, and the natural aging process of the materials.

Fragility:

• The acetate used in these boxes is quite fragile. With age, it becomes increasingly prone to warping, which can distort the box's original shape and appearance. This warping can be exacerbated by fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

Cracking:

• Another issue that affects these acetate boxes is cracking. As the material becomes more brittle over time, it can develop cracks or even break apart entirely. This is especially common if the boxes have been handled frequently or stored in less-than-ideal conditions.

These types of deterioration are common in vintage plastics and are a reminder of the challenges in preserving such materials. Despite these issues, the historical and aesthetic value of the "Taglio" presentation boxes remains significant. Collectors and enthusiasts often cherish these items for their unique design and the glimpse they provide into the innovative packaging techniques of the mid-20th century.

 

Modern Packaging, 1945:

"Lucien Lelong has the cosmetic world agog with the glamourous transparent container for his Taglio perfume. This is made of acetate, but everybody is asking, "How do they put those tiny bubbles in the plastic? ..."

Modern Packaging, 1947:

"The success of Lucien Lelong's Taglio perfume in a transparent acetate container which appears to be full of frosty bubbles, has prompted the introduction of a line of additional cosmetics in similar packaging."

The innovative packaging of Lucien Lelong's "Taglio" perfume received significant attention and acclaim during its time, as reflected in publications like Modern Packaging. Here are some key points from the articles:

Modern Packaging, 1945: 

The 1945 article highlights the excitement generated by the transparent acetate container for "Taglio" perfume. The glamorous look of the container, which features tiny bubble-like effects, sparked curiosity and admiration. The intriguing visual effect of the frosty bubbles within the plastic was a notable innovation that captured the attention of both consumers and industry professionals.

The question, "How do they put those tiny bubbles in the plastic?" suggests a widespread fascination with the technical and aesthetic aspects of the packaging.

Modern Packaging, 1947: 

By 1947, the success of the "Taglio" perfume packaging had encouraged Lucien Lelong to expand this innovative design to a broader line of cosmetics. The frosty bubble effect in the transparent acetate containers became a signature look, contributing to the brand's identity and appeal.

This move to include additional cosmetics in similar packaging indicates the strong market response and the strategic importance of maintaining a consistent and recognizable brand image through distinctive packaging.

These articles underscore the importance of packaging innovation in the success of Lucien Lelong's products. The acetate container with its frosty bubble effect not only added to the aesthetic appeal but also differentiated the brand in a competitive market, making "Taglio" a standout product. This innovative approach helped set a trend in cosmetic packaging, emphasizing the role of visual and tactile elements in consumer appeal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Lucien Lelong's "Taglio" perfume remains a point of interest for collectors and enthusiasts, with the exact date it was discontinued being unknown. Over time, as with many fragrances, changes in market trends, consumer preferences, and company decisions can lead to the discontinuation of even the most beloved products.

Reasons for Discontinuation:

• Market Trends: Changes in consumer tastes and preferences can lead to a decline in sales, prompting companies to discontinue certain products.

• Production Costs: The innovative and luxurious packaging of "Taglio" might have contributed to high production costs, making it less viable to continue in the long run.

• Brand Strategy: Shifts in brand strategy and focus can result in older products being phased out to make room for new ones.

• Ingredient Availability: Changes in the availability or cost of certain ingredients can also impact the production of a fragrance.

Legacy:

Despite its discontinuation, "Taglio" remains a cherished piece of perfume history, remembered for its sophisticated scent and innovative packaging. Vintage bottles and presentation boxes are sought after by collectors, not only for their olfactory value but also for their aesthetic and historical significance.

Collectability:

For collectors and enthusiasts, owning a piece of "Taglio" is a way to connect with the luxurious and innovative spirit of mid-20th century perfumery. The unique acetate boxes, despite their fragility, are particularly prized for their artistic and historical value.

In summary, while the exact date of "Taglio's" discontinuation is unknown, its impact and legacy in the world of perfumery continue to be appreciated by those who admire Lucien Lelong's contributions to the art of fragrance and packaging design.