Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere c1987

The launch of "Bleu de Chine" perfume in 1987 occurred during a period marked by significant cultural exchange between China and the West. This era saw an increasing fascination with Chinese art, fashion, and cinema in Western societies. Films such as "The Last Emperor" (1987), which won multiple Oscars for its portrayal of Chinese imperial history, captured the imagination of audiences worldwide. In fashion, designers like Vivienne Tam and Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated Chinese motifs and silhouettes into their collections, reflecting a trend towards Eastern-inspired elegance. Moreover, in music, artists like David Bowie and Peter Gabriel began integrating Chinese instruments and melodies into their compositions, signaling a cross-cultural exchange in popular music.

The name "Bleu de Chine," translating to "Blue of China," carries with it a sense of exoticism and sophistication. Marc de la Morandiere likely chose this name to evoke the serene beauty and cultural richness associated with traditional Chinese ceramics and textiles, which often feature deep, vibrant shades of blue. This choice aligns with the perfume's aspiration to embody elegance and timeless allure, appealing to those who appreciate both the mystique of the East and the refinement of Western luxury.

"Bleu de Chine" makes a compelling name for a perfume due to its evocative nature. The color blue symbolizes tranquility and depth, qualities that are desirable in a fragrance meant to captivate and soothe the senses. Additionally, the reference to China adds an element of exotic allure and cultural richness, suggesting a perfume that promises both sophistication and a hint of mystery.

Women of the late 1980s would likely have related to a perfume called "Bleu de Chine" for its association with elegance and cultural sophistication. In a time when fashion and beauty trends were embracing diverse influences, a perfume named after a symbol of Eastern artistry would have appealed to those seeking to express their appreciation for global aesthetics and luxury.

The response to "Bleu de Chine" among women would likely have been positive and enthusiastic. The name evokes images of serene blue landscapes, intricate Chinese ceramics, and the calm depths of the sea, arousing emotions of tranquility, refinement, and perhaps a touch of exotic allure. The perfume itself, crafted by Pierre Bourdon, renowned for his exceptional olfactory creations, would have further enhanced its appeal with its distinctive notes and timeless appeal.

The name "Bleu de Chine" is indeed unique for a perfume, standing out among other fragrances that often opt for descriptive or abstract names. It combines a descriptive color with a cultural reference, suggesting a narrative of elegance and cultural appreciation. Interpreted broadly, "Bleu de Chine" signifies a perfume that embodies the deep, refined qualities associated with Chinese art and aesthetics, appealing to those who seek sophistication and a connection to global cultural heritage.

In conclusion, "Bleu de Chine" perfume, launched in 1987 by Fragrances Ressources, encapsulates the spirit of cross-cultural exchange between China and the West during a transformative period in history. Its name and composition reflect a blend of Eastern elegance and Western luxury, resonating with consumers who appreciate both timeless allure and the beauty of cultural diversity

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: coriander, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose
• Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, balsam, resins, vanilla, tonka bean,  musk

Comprehensive Scent Profile:

Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere is a captivating and sophisticated fragrance, typical of the floral chypre category but with its own unique character. Here's a description of what it smells like:

Upon initial application, you might experience a burst of freshness from the combination of coriander, lily-of-the-valley, and bergamot. The coriander adds a subtle spicy note, while the lily-of-the-valley contributes a delicate floral sweetness, and the bergamot provides a bright and citrusy touch, creating an invigorating opening.

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and tuberose emerge, forming a lush and opulent floral bouquet. The rose adds a romantic and classic element, while jasmine brings its intoxicatingly floral aroma. Ylang ylang lends a creamy and slightly exotic facet, and tuberose contributes its rich and heady floral scent, resulting in a luxurious and feminine floral composition.

In the base, the fragrance evolves into a warm and sensual blend of oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, balsam, resins, vanilla, tonka bean, and musk. Oakmoss provides a grounding and earthy quality typical of chypre fragrances, while sandalwood adds a creamy and woody richness. Vetiver contributes an earthy and slightly smoky note, enhancing the depth of the composition. The combination of balsam and resins adds warmth and complexity, while vanilla and tonka bean provide a sweet and comforting undertone. Musk adds a soft and powdery finish, rounding out the scent with a subtle sensuality.

Overall, Bleu de Chine is likely to be a sophisticated and alluring fragrance, with a harmonious blend of floral, citrus, spicy, and woody notes, evoking a sense of timeless elegance and femininity.

Femme, 1987:

"It was in China that Marc de la Morandière found the fragrance of his first perfume, this floral note where tuberose, rose and coriander mingle. . The deep blue of the bottle and the tenacity of the delicately insinuated scents form a perfect harmony to seduce the gentle, funny and determined woman-woman."

Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandière, is a fragrance with a story inspired by the essence of China. Here's a rendition of what it might smell like based on the provided description from Femme magazine:

Imagine being transported to the enchanting landscapes of China, where Marc de la Morandière discovered the inspiration for his first perfume. As you inhale the fragrance, you're greeted by a delicate floral symphony where tuberose, rose, and coriander intertwine, creating a mesmerizing olfactory journey.

The scent opens with the freshness of tuberose, its heady aroma enveloping you like a gentle breeze. The rose adds a romantic and feminine touch, while coriander infuses a subtle spicy nuance, reminiscent of exotic markets and fragrant spices.

The deep blue of the bottle reflects the mysterious allure of the fragrance, hinting at the depth and complexity within. As the scent evolves on your skin, it reveals its tenacity, delicately lingering and captivating the senses with its subtle yet seductive allure.

Bleu de Chine embodies the spirit of the gentle, funny, and determined woman – a woman who exudes confidence and elegance, yet embraces her playful and adventurous side. Its perfect harmony of scents is designed to resonate with her essence, captivating those around her with its irresistible charm.

Bottle:

In color and form this bottle for Bleu de Chine perfume relates to the tradition of the famed Chinese faiences of the Ming Dynasty. The description of the bottle for Bleu de Chine perfume evokes a sense of elegance and cultural richness, drawing inspiration from the renowned Chinese faiences of the Ming Dynasty. Here's a visualization of what the bottle might look like based on the details provided:

The bottle, designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1987, captures the essence of Ming Dynasty ceramics with its intricate detailing and hand-applied blue and white lacquer. Its form and color pay homage to the traditional craftsmanship of Chinese porcelain, while adding a touch of modern sophistication.

Produced in France by both Pochet et du Courval and Verreries de la Bresle, the bottle exudes quality and craftsmanship. The frosted, transparent blue glass of the harder-to-find version adds a subtle yet enchanting allure, reminiscent of a serene blue sky. Paired with a black screw cap, this miniature version of the bottle exudes understated elegance and charm.

Altogether, the bottle for Bleu de Chine perfume serves as a visual representation of the fragrance's inspiration – a blend of tradition, beauty, and timeless allure. It is a collector's item that not only holds a precious scent but also tells a story of cultural appreciation and artistic craftsmanship.

Serge Mansau for Marc de la Morandiere. Bleu de Chine, 1987. Study and trends box, containing the elements of inspiration and models that allowed the creation of the bottle.  

 It's fascinating to explore the various sizes and formats in which the original, vintage formula of Bleu de Chine was available. Here's a breakdown of the different options:

• 1 oz Parfum: This would likely have been the most concentrated form of the fragrance, offering a rich and long-lasting scent experience.

• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette miniature bottle: A charming and petite option, standing at 1.5" tall, perfect for collectors or for those who prefer a smaller amount of fragrance.

• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Splash: A classic presentation, allowing for a generous application of the fragrance directly from the bottle.

• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash: A slightly larger size compared to the 1 oz option, offering more product for those who wish to indulge in the fragrance.

• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray: The spray format provides a convenient and controlled application of the fragrance, ensuring even distribution.

• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray: Similar to the 1 oz spray, but with a larger capacity for those who prefer to have more of their favorite scent on hand.

• 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray: The largest spray option, ideal for those who use the fragrance frequently or prefer to buy in bulk.

• Factice (dummy) glass bottle: A non-functional display bottle, standing at an impressive 9" tall, likely used for promotional or decorative purposes, showcasing the elegance of the fragrance without containing the actual scent.

These various sizes and formats would have catered to different preferences and needs, allowing fragrance enthusiasts to enjoy Bleu de Chine in a manner that suited them best, whether as a personal indulgence, a collectible item, or a decorative piece.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It's interesting to note the evolution of Bleu de Chine over time, including changes in distribution and ownership. Here's a summary based on the provided information:

• Original formulation: Bleu de Chine was initially introduced in 1987, captivating fragrance enthusiasts with its exquisite blend of notes and elegant presentation.

• Reformulation in 1994: Like many fragrances, Bleu de Chine underwent a reformulation in 1994, which could have resulted in changes to its scent profile or overall composition. Reformulations can occur due to various factors, such as ingredient availability or regulatory requirements.

• Distribution by Alfin Fragrances, Inc.: The earlier bottles of Bleu de Chine were distributed by Alfin Fragrances, Inc. This company likely played a significant role in bringing the fragrance to market and establishing its presence among consumers.

• Transition to Adrien Arpel, Inc.: By 2001, the ownership of the Bleu de Chine brand had transitioned to Adrien Arpel, Inc. This change in ownership could have brought about shifts in marketing strategies, distribution channels, or product formulations.

Throughout its journey, Bleu de Chine has retained its allure and reputation as a timeless and sophisticated fragrance, cherished by those who appreciate its distinctive scent and elegant presentation.

The original, vintage versions have been discontinued, date unknown. You can still purchase old stock from the Marc de la Morandiere website. These limited edition bottles are the same as those from 1987. It's fascinating to learn that vintage versions of Bleu de Chine are still available for purchase, offering fragrance enthusiasts the opportunity to experience the original formulation from 1987. The fact that these limited edition bottles are identical to the ones produced over three decades ago adds to their allure and collector's appeal.

The availability of vintage stock from the Marc de la Morandiere website provides a unique opportunity for those who appreciate the nostalgia and authenticity of vintage fragrances. It allows them to acquire a piece of perfume history and indulge in a scent that may hold sentimental value or evoke memories of bygone eras.

For fans of Bleu de Chine, acquiring one of these limited edition bottles offers a chance to experience the fragrance as it was originally intended, with all its nuances and characteristics preserved. It's a testament to the enduring legacy of this iconic scent and its continued relevance in the world of perfumery.

A new version in a completely different bottle has been released in 2014 as part of La Collection. The notes are said to be the same as the original, but I do not know how they stack up to one another when testing side by side. It is available in the following on the Marc de la Morandiere website.

It's interesting to learn about the release of a new version of Bleu de Chine as part of La Collection in 2014, especially with its notes purportedly remaining the same as the original formulation. Here are the available sizes of the new version on the Marc de la Morandiere website:

• 1 oz Eau de Parfum: This size offers a moderate amount of the fragrance, perfect for those who want to experience it without committing to a larger bottle.

• 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum: The larger size provides a generous amount of the fragrance, suitable for those who plan to use it regularly or who simply prefer having a larger supply on hand.

If you're interested in comparing the new version with the vintage one, obtaining samples of both could be an excellent way to discern any differences in scent profile, longevity, or overall experience. You may want to reach out to the Marc de la Morandiere website to inquire about sample availability or explore other avenues such as specialty fragrance retailers or online marketplaces that offer sample sets or decants of niche perfumes. This way, you can conduct a side-by-side comparison to determine how the two versions of Bleu de Chine stack up against each other.

From the 2014, Marc de la Morandiere press kit:

"The enchantment of an intense fragrance, which transports you to a voluptuous sensory world. The finesse and sensuality of a bottle in deep cobalt blue, precious like porcelain of the Ming Dynasty. A prestigious perfume exhilarating the senses. A lacquered finish for this majestic bottle, sublimating the essence. A contrast in sensations where the zesty citrus lightens up the warmth of the vanilla and of the tonka beans. The mystifying tuberose unites with the exotic touch of the ylang ylang. This unique and captivating scent will transport you to the depths of the Extreme Orient, never ending source of inspiration for this mysterious fragrance created with the talented Pierre Bourdon."

Also, Bleu de Chine No. 2 was released sometime in the 1990s. Its bottle is the same shape as its sister, the original, but it is enameled in white and has a blue stopper. Here are the available sizes of Bleu de Chine No. 2:

• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette miniature: This miniature size is perfect for collectors or those who prefer a smaller amount of fragrance for occasional use or travel.

• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray: A larger size option, providing a generous amount of the fragrance for regular use.

The enameled white bottle with a blue stopper offers a striking contrast to the original, adding a fresh and elegant touch to the presentation. If you're intrigued by the original Bleu de Chine but curious to explore a variation on the theme, Bleu de Chine No. 2 could be an interesting option to consider.