Monsieur de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1950

Monsieur de Rauch, a fragrance attributed to the fashion house of Madeleine de Rauch, was launched in either 1950 or 1966, according to the Dictionnaire des Parfums (1972-1973 edition). Madeleine de Rauch, the creative force behind the brand, was a French couturier who ventured into the world of perfumery, much like many designers of the time. Her haute couture house was known for its elegance and understated luxury, which naturally carried over into her fragrances. As a designer, she sought to reflect her refined aesthetic not only in fashion but also in scent, offering perfumes that resonated with sophistication and class.

The choice of the name "Monsieur de Rauch" appears to be deeply rooted in a sense of heritage and prestige. In French, "Monsieur" simply means "Mister," a formal title of respect for men, while "de Rauch" refers to the designer's family name. In terms of pronunciation, "Monsieur de Rauch" would sound like Muh-syuh duh Rosh, with the final "ch" pronounced like the “sh” in “shush.” The use of "Monsieur" in the fragrance's name evokes an image of an elegant, well-groomed gentleman, possibly one of aristocratic lineage or refined taste. The name conjures feelings of respect, formality, and timeless masculinity, suggesting that this fragrance was intended for a man who values sophistication and carries himself with dignity.

For men of the period in which Monsieur de Rauch was released, the fragrance likely conveyed a sense of identity. During the mid-20th century, men's fragrances were often marketed to reflect ideals of strength, maturity, and refinement. A scent named "Monsieur de Rauch" would appeal to the gentleman who wished to exude a sense of command and elegance. The name suggests not only a fragrance but an entire persona — someone who appreciates the finer things in life, perhaps reminiscent of a French aristocrat or a man of business and social standing.

When translated into a scent, "Monsieur de Rauch" was created by master perfumers Raymond Chaillan and Jacques Bercia. It is described as a refreshing yet bittersweet citrus-woody fragrance, with prominent woody and lemony notes. This blend suggests a balance of sharpness and warmth, with the citrus offering a clean, invigorating opening, and the woods adding a depth that speaks to masculinity and stability. The bittersweet quality points to a sense of maturity, making the fragrance suitable for a man who is confident and complex.

Eau Cendree by Jacomo c1974

Eau Cendrée by Jacomo, launched in 1974, is a distinctive fragrance that reflected the elegance and trends of its time. Jacomo, a luxury fragrance house, was founded in the 1960s by James Kaplan, an American, and Gérard Courtin, a Frenchman. The brand quickly established itself as a purveyor of refined, avant-garde scents. Known for creating sophisticated fragrances that pushed the boundaries of scent design, Jacomo aimed to capture the essence of modern masculinity in Eau Cendrée.

The name "Eau Cendrée" is French, pronounced "oh sahn-DRAY". Translated, it means "Ash Water" or "Gray Water," with "eau" meaning water and "cendrée" deriving from "cendre," meaning ash. The word evokes images of something cool, muted, and enigmatic—an interplay between freshness and something more grounded, smoky, or earthy. The choice of this name likely suggests a balance between lightness and depth, between clarity and something more introspective. It conjures a sense of refinement and understated elegance, appealing to a man who is both strong and reflective.

The name "Eau Cendrée" could evoke a feeling of subtle power, mystery, and maturity. Men of the 1970s, a time when individuality and personal expression were becoming more prominent, would have likely appreciated this fragrance for its quiet sophistication. In a world transitioning from the bold masculinity of previous decades, where men’s scents were often heavier and more dominant, Eau Cendrée would have struck a more nuanced chord. The title hints at something more reserved yet distinguished—ideal for the man who wanted to stand out not through brashness but through elegance.

In interpreting "Eau Cendrée" in scent, the fragrance begins with a fresh, herbaceous, and spicy top note punctuated with pimento. This burst of green and spice is invigorating, evoking feelings of vitality and crispness. The dry floral, spicy heart, featuring pepper, adds warmth and depth, offering a sharp contrast to the initial freshness. It’s the blend of coolness with fiery spice that gives the fragrance its unique character. Finally, the base of cypress, with its woody and mossy undertones, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy depth. This chypre structure, known for balancing freshness with mossy, woody tones, makes Eau Cendrée both fresh and timeless.

Gourielli

Established in 1941 by Helena Rubinstein who was married to Artchil Gourielli-Tchkonia, a Russian prince from Georgia . Princess Gourielli (Helena Rubinstein) opened the Gourielli Shop, an old fashioned brownstone front on E. 55th Street, Manhattan, that she turned into a fabulous cosmetic emporium selling old apothecary recipes combined with new scientific formulas.  The shop combined several different decorative themes which combined Old Apothecary, Early American, Victorian American, Modern and Mexican.

Old Favorites Are Back Again!

Are you still mourning the loss of Faberge's Babe, Coty's Tribe, Goya's Black Rose or Aqua Manda? Well wipe away those tears as a new company Beauty Brand Development  has acquired the rights to produce and sell these long lost faves.

Beauty Brand Development states that they "reached out to fans help us recreate [these fragrances] through social media and the internet and we were overwhelmed by the response. Some fans of [these fragrances] had an intimate knowledge and appreciation of the perfume so we invited these fans to work with us in bringing back [these fragrances], drawing on their fond recollection to make it as near to the original as possible.

After lengthy research we were fortunate enough to find the original ingredients from the public records and from collectors of the original [fragrances]. This gave us the assurance that we could recreate the original [fragrances].

We employed the renowned French perfumer, Givaudan to develop the perfume, working with this information in their highly specialised laboratories to create numerous samples for the fans to test and eventually approve."

Faberge's Babe was launched in 1976 and was discontinued in 1992. Babe opens with a fresh burst of lavender, aldehydes and hyacinth offering radiance and energy. A bouquet of exquisite and elegant flowers exhales vitality and colourfulness. The end note is a refined woody scent of warm sandalwood rounded by sensual solar accord, moss and ambrette that leave a gracious and delightful trail on the skin."






Tribe was launched by Coty in 1991 but was discontinued in 1997.

"Alluring and addictive, Tribe is designed to suit every woman and make their life full of colour.

Opening with a bright cocktail of juicy fruits, a delighted bouquet of rose, jasmine and orange flower brings the femininity. Then, soft musks, creamy vanilla and sheer cedarwood are enveloping and comfortable offering a bold and unique signature."



Black Rose by Goya was launched in 1955 but discontinued around 1984.

"Goya Black Rose was first created in the 1950's by the founder of Goya, Douglas Collins. The heritage of creating beautiful perfumes was then inherited by his son Christopher Collins. Christopher Collins and the original oil suppliers have acted as advisors on the relaunch of this iconic perfume. After extensive research and investigation the original formulas for this perfume have been discovered at the Amersham Museum, these historical documents have been referenced to recreate the beautiful romantic fragrance of Black Rose.

Making the fragrance as close as possible to the original. Because memories are so precious. This fragrance begins with a sparkling citrus green accord of bergamot and green stems contrasted by the irreverent clove. The heart of the composition reveals a fresh and feminine floral bouquet of rose, Damask rose, geranium and enhanced by a comfortable drydown of the white flowers of jasmine, solar notes and the sensuality of a velvety musk."



Aqua Manda by Goya was launched in 1947 and discontinued in 1975. It was recreated in 2013.

"This recreation of the original scent has been painstakingly developed by a team of perfumers at the original oil suppliers and after many trials and tests it has been approved by the original creator of the Aqua Manda fragrance, Christopher Collins, who has acted as an advisor on its relaunch.

Aqua Manda Perfume is back again, enjoy the lingering, refreshing fragrance of this classic perfume, made with essential oils of mandarin, ginger, lavender, patchouly, cinnamon, and other aromatic herbs."

Aqua Citra by Goya was launched in 1973, but discontinued in 1975. It was recreated in 2014.

"Aqua Citra is the sister perfume to Aqua Manda and is born from the same era, made with essential oils of Mediterranean lemon, ginger, lavender, patchouly, cinnamon, and other aromatic herbs.

An explosion of citrus notes combined with a soft spicy accord brings a contrasted freshness to the green floral heart of the composition, leaving an addictive woody and musky drydown at the end.

The recreation of the original scent has been painstakingly developed by a team of perfumers at the original oil suppliers and after many trials and tests it has been approved by the original creator of the Aqua Manda fragrance, Christopher Collins, who has acted as an advisor on its relaunch."

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Jade East by Swank c1963

Jade East Cologne and Perfume has remained a favorite fragrance among American men and has become a classic fragrance for today's man.

Nuts & Bolts Colognes

From 1968 to about 1972, a man could get an unusual cologne called Nuts & Bolts, manufactured by the Colton Company who also made the Nine Flags and My Islands colognes.

Nine Flags Colognes

NINE FLAGS

The Nine Flags men's shaving cologne collection came out in 1965, it was still being sold well into the early 1970s. It was distributed by the Colton company of Boston, Massachusetts and was marketed by Gillette in the United Kingdom. The bottles are also marked "Essence Imported Blended in USA". I have also found reference to the Nine Flags men's soap set advertisement from 1972. By 1974, the Colton Company ceased production of the Nine Flags fragrances.