Ozbek by Rifat Ozbek c1995

In 1995, Rifat Ozbek's fragrance "Ozbek" made its debut as a notable addition to the perfume industry, emerging during a time when exoticism and global influences were increasingly captivating the fashion and design worlds. The 1990s were characterized by a blending of nostalgia for bygone styles with a burgeoning curiosity for diverse cultural inspirations. This era saw a shift in the fragrance landscape towards celebrating individualism and distinct identities. Positioned at the intersection of these trends, Rifat Ozbek, a Turkish-born designer based in London, infused his first fragrance with the same eclectic and culturally rich aesthetic that distinguished his fashion collections.

The name "Ozbek" was a deliberate choice, laden with symbolism and personal significance. In Turkish, "Ozbek" is a variant of "Uzbek," referring to the Uzbek people of Central Asia. This name translates directly to "Uzbek" in English and evokes a sense of heritage and exotic allure. By selecting this name, Ozbek honored his cultural roots while highlighting the unique and exotic character of the fragrance.

"Ozbek" is an evocative name for a perfume, conjuring imagery of ancient traditions, vast landscapes, and the mystique of Central Asia. It suggests a scent that is not only unique but also deeply embedded in a cultural narrative. This choice aligns seamlessly with Rifat Ozbek’s design ethos, which frequently blends traditional elements with contemporary sensibilities. The name "Ozbek" imparts sophistication and depth, appealing to individuals who appreciate fragrances with a rich story and a connection to a broader cultural heritage.

Rifat Ozbek, a Turkish-born fashion designer, earned international acclaim for his innovative and eclectic designs. Born in Istanbul in 1953, Ozbek studied fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, where he honed his skills and developed a unique aesthetic. In the 1980s, he launched his eponymous fashion label, quickly gaining recognition for his colorful and distinctive collections that often showcased elements of his Turkish heritage. His designs were celebrated for their vibrant fusion of Eastern and Western influences, combining elegance with a playful, adventurous spirit.

Ozbek's career includes notable collaborations with various fashion houses, including a significant partnership with Proteo Profumi SpA, which resulted in the launch of his fragrance "Ozbek" in 1995. This foray into perfumery reflects Ozbek's broader creative vision, extending his design philosophy into the olfactory realm. The fragrance "Ozbek" embodies his signature blend of traditional and modern elements, mirroring the distinctiveness and complexity of his fashion designs.

The name "Ozbek" evokes images of expansive, sunlit landscapes and ancient trade routes, capturing the essence of Central Asia’s vibrant cultures. It conjures a sense of mystery, allure, and timeless elegance, promising an exotic journey through rich sensory experiences. This evocative imagery aligns with Ozbek's design ethos, merging traditional influences with contemporary flair.

Although Ozbek's fashion label closed in the early 2000s, his legacy endures. His contributions to the fashion industry have left a lasting impact, inspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Ozbek's ability to blend cultural elements with modern sensibilities has secured his place among the most influential designers of his generation.

Background:

Gin Martinez, the export director of Proteo Profumi in Milan, described the conceptual foundation of the Ozbek fragrance as an exploration of cultural contrasts. Martinez envisioned the scent as a journey navigated by an exotic woman traversing between the Mediterranean and the Orient. This concept suggests a fragrance designed to bridge two distinct worlds, blending influences from both regions to create a scent that is multifaceted and unique. By emphasizing that the fragrance is not targeted at a specific female demographic, Martinez highlighted its universal appeal, aiming to attract women who connect with its broad and inclusive vision.

Rifat Ozbek aimed for Ozbek to embody a harmonious blend of traditional and modern elements. He sought to create a fragrance that was floral yet subtle, balancing femininity and sensuality without overwhelming intensity. This desire for a contemporary scent that also honors classical influences reflects Ozbek’s broader design ethos. He intended for the fragrance to be fresh and relevant to the present day, rather than evoking nostalgia for the past. This approach underscores his commitment to crafting a scent that aligns with current trends while retaining a connection to traditional sensibilities.

The fusion of Mediterranean and Oriental influences in Ozbek mirrors Ozbek’s multicultural background and his characteristic approach to fashion. By merging these distinct cultural elements, Ozbek aimed to create a fragrance that feels both exotic and familiar, bridging traditional and modern aesthetics. This duality is consistent with his reputation for integrating diverse cultural elements into his designs, resulting in creations that are rich in texture and context.

The ideal wearer of Ozbek would be a woman with a sophisticated palate and an appreciation for cultural richness. She would value the fragrance’s ability to evoke exoticism and femininity while maintaining contemporary relevance. The non-specific target demographic reflects Ozbek’s belief in the universal appeal of his scent, suggesting it is designed to resonate with a wide audience.

Ozbek’s intention to balance timeless elegance with modern flair is evident in both his fashion collections and the fragrance. By achieving this equilibrium, Ozbek demonstrates his ability to blend classic and avant-garde elements, producing a scent that is both enduring and innovative. The Ozbek fragrance captures Rifat Ozbek's design philosophy: a celebration of cultural diversity, femininity, and adventure. It embodies a journey through various cultural landscapes, reflecting the designer’s talent for merging influences into a cohesive and compelling narrative. This approach ensures that Ozbek is not just a fragrance but an experience, resonating with a sense of exotic elegance and modern sophistication.

Distribution & Advertising:

The launch of Rifat Ozbek’s fragrance, Ozbek, in Italy was marked by a significant $19 million advertising campaign, underscoring the high stakes and strategic planning involved in its introduction. Distributed by Florbath Profumi of Parfuma, the extensive campaign was designed to secure a prominent market entry for the fragrance, reflecting a major investment in establishing Ozbek as a key player in the fragrance industry.

The print advertisement for Ozbek was visually striking and sophisticated, featuring a bold orange background that contrasted with a midnight blue silhouette of a woman. The woman’s outstretched hand, kissing her wrist where the fragrance would be applied, conveyed sensuality and allure. The Ozbek bottle was prominently displayed, ensuring that the product remained the focal point of the campaign and reinforcing its central role.

The decision to launch the print ad in the United Kingdom and Italy at the end of October 1995 was a strategic choice, given these countries’ influential roles in the fashion and fragrance sectors. Both markets were selected for their trendsetting capabilities and sophisticated consumer base. The TV spot, filmed in London, further anchored the campaign in Rifat Ozbek’s base city, aligning the promotion closely with the designer’s personal and professional identity.

Hanaa Hazelhurst played a pivotal role in the campaign’s success by overseeing all aspects of marketing, sales, merchandising, training, and media planning. Her comprehensive management ensured that every element of the campaign was meticulously executed, from strategic planning to implementation. Hazelhurst’s leadership was crucial in creating a cohesive and impactful campaign, maximizing the fragrance’s visibility and appeal.

The collaboration between Proteo Profumi, Florbath Profumi, and Hanaa Hazelhurst reflected a well-coordinated effort to introduce Ozbek effectively. By combining high-profile advertising channels with strategic partnerships, the campaign aimed to make a memorable impression. The blend of traditional and modern advertising techniques ensured that Ozbek garnered the attention and acclaim needed to establish a strong presence in the competitive fragrance market.

Overall, the Ozbek launch was distinguished by its sophisticated and well-planned approach, utilizing substantial resources to create a compelling and effective introduction. The coordinated efforts of all involved parties demonstrated a commitment to making Ozbek a standout addition to the fragrance world.

Launch:

The launch of the Ozbek fragrance marked a strategic and high-profile entry into the global perfume market, beginning with an exclusive debut at Harvey Nichols on August 15, 1995. Proteo Profumi of Milan, the fragrance's manufacturer, partnered with Harvey Nichols for a one-month exclusive, leveraging the retailer’s reputation for avant-garde fashion and beauty. Daniella Rinaldi, the perfumery buyer at Harvey Nichols, noted that the fragrance achieved over $158,000 in retail sales during its first month, attributing its success to Rifat Ozbek’s status as a hot designer and the fragrance's distinctive nature. Rinaldi highlighted that Ozbek's scent resonated with the store's clientele and reflected a shift towards glamour and richer fragrances in fashion.

Following the successful British launch, the fragrance was introduced to international markets. In September 1995, Ozbek made its debut in Saudi Arabia, and by October, it was rolled out to approximately 600 perfumery doors in Italy through Florbath Profumi, a Sanofi subsidiary. Proteo Profumi anticipated significant sales in Italy, projecting around $3.1 million for the first year. The fragrance also saw a launch in Switzerland, further expanding its reach in Europe.

The US launch faced some scheduling changes, initially planned for August 1995 but rescheduled to January 1996 to avoid competing with fall releases. However, the fragrance was released early at Barneys New York on November 30, 1995. The launch included a high-profile event with designer Rifat Ozbek making personal appearances at Barneys New York stores in New York and Los Angeles, complemented by a launch party featuring a performance by Debbie Harry of Blondie. The fragrance’s introduction at Barneys, paired with an exclusive print ad in Elle magazine and cable spots in the New York metropolitan area, strategically positioned it for the holiday season.

Although the launch in France was not yet finalized, the US introduction established a strong foundation for the fragrance's global expansion. The strategic approach and high-profile events contributed to the successful rollout of the Ozbek fragrance, marking its notable entry into the perfume market and setting the stage for potential future expansions.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft floral fragrance for women. It contains rosewood, freesia, and juicy peach in the top note, introducing a distinctive middle note of pittosporum with tropical ylang ylang, blue hyacinth, and three different varieties of jasmine: Chinese, Italian and Egyptian for a Mediterranen effect, and its lower note principally comprises honey and sensual musk. 

• Top notes: rosewood, plum, freesia, citrus, coriander and peach
• Middle notes: orange blossom, tuberose, heliotrope, rose, pittosporum, Chinese jasmine, Egyptian jasmine, Italian jasmine, blue hyacinth and ylang-ylang
• Base notes: amber, benzoin, labdanum, vanilla, tonka bean, sandalwood, white honey and musk

Living Flower Technology:

The creation of the Ozbek fragrance was a testament to the artistry and innovation of the perfumers at International Flavor and Fragrance (IFF) Italy. This intricate process took three years and was marked by the application of the groundbreaking "Living Flower" technology. This method, conceived by Dr. Braja Mookherjee in 1985 and further developed by IFF, revolutionized the way natural floral aromas were captured. Unlike traditional techniques that relied on cut flowers and fruits, Living Flower technology involved placing a glass bulb over a blooming bud and using a needle to extract the scented atmosphere, or headspace, surrounding the flower. This approach allowed for a fresher, more authentic capture of the flower's natural aroma.

For Ozbek, this advanced technology enabled the perfumers to incorporate the true freshness of ripe, juicy peaches, delicate freesias, and the luxurious scents of various jasmine types. The inclusion of pittosporum, a small tree native to New Zealand but cultivated in Europe, added a unique dimension to the fragrance. With a scent reminiscent of jasmine and orange blossom, pittosporum contributed to the fragrance’s exotic and sophisticated profile.

The use of Living Flower technology was instrumental in achieving the fragrance’s distinctive and complex character. By capturing the natural essence of these ingredients with greater accuracy, the perfumers created a scent that was both vibrant and nuanced. The fresh and lively notes of peach and freesia, combined with the rich, multifaceted aromas of jasmine and ylang-ylang, came together harmoniously. Pittosporum's subtle yet memorable presence enhanced the fragrance's overall sophistication.

This meticulous development process highlights the dedication of IFF’s perfumers to crafting a fragrance that embodied both innovation and tradition. The result was a fragrance that not only celebrated the individual components but also delivered a cohesive and evocative olfactory experience. The use of Living Flower technology in Ozbek stands as a prime example of modern perfumery’s ability to blend advanced techniques with classic elements to create a truly exceptional scent.

Similar Scents:

Exploring the fragrance landscape from 1985 to 1995 reveals a fascinating overlap in olfactory profiles among several notable scents, including Christian Dior's Poison (1985), Daniel de Fasson's signature fragrance  (1990), Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere (1987), Valentino by Valentino (1986), and the rare Vallee des Rois by Mira Takla (1988). These perfumes collectively illustrate a shared olfactory "DNA" that reflects the trends and techniques prevalent during that period.

Poison by Christian Dior epitomizes the era's affinity for bold, dramatic scents with its deep, intoxicating blend of spices, florals, and rich oriental accords. Its lush, heady profile is a hallmark of the 1980s opulence, which emphasized complex, multifaceted fragrances that made a strong impression.

Daniel de Fasson's signature fragrance from 1990 carries a similar vibe, marked by its sophisticated blend of floral and woody elements that align with the luxurious sensibilities of the time. This perfume showcases the era’s penchant for creating scents that were both sensual and powerful, designed to make a lasting impact.

Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere, introduced in 1987, also aligns with this olfactory trend. Known for its rich floral and oriental notes, it encapsulates the era’s love for exotic and intense fragrances. The scent’s deep, aromatic blend resonates with the bold character typical of mid-80s and early-90s perfumery.

Valentino by Valentino, from the 1986 vintage Parfums Stern formula, features a classic composition of luxurious florals and spices, mirroring the intricate and opulent styles of its time. Its sophisticated blend reflects the enduring appeal of deeply layered scents that were popular during this period.

Vallee des Rois by Mira Takla, introduced in 1988 and developed by IFF, is another rare gem that exemplifies the richness and complexity of late 80s fragrances. Its exotic and sumptuous notes align with the era’s fascination with creating evocative and multi-dimensional scents.

Sampling these fragrances side by side reveals both shared elements and distinct differences. They often feature similar DNA—bold florals, exotic spices, and complex blends—that capture the essence of the era. However, each perfume offers unique nuances due to the specific ingredients, blending techniques, and brand aesthetics.

This period in perfumery showcases how certain trends and styles can create a cohesive olfactory narrative, while individual creations still maintain their own unique identities. The evolution and interplay of these fragrances highlight the artistry of perfumery and the enduring allure of scent.

Scent Story:

Imagine embarking on a journey through the sun-drenched landscapes of Central Asia, where the air is filled with the rich scents of ancient trade routes and vibrant cultures. As you step into this world, you are immediately enveloped by the warm embrace of vast, golden deserts and the whisper of an age-old breeze carrying the stories of centuries past.

Your eyes take in the expansive vistas of the sun-baked terrain, dotted with the vibrant colors of lush oases. The horizon is a blend of deep blues and rich oranges, mirroring the vivid orange backdrop of the Ozbek print advertisement. The silhouette of a woman, elegant and poised, appears against this vivid canvas, her outstretched hand bringing the scent to life. She kisses her wrist, where the fragrance’s journey begins.

As you breathe in, the top notes of Ozbek make their entrance. The first whiff introduces the warm, woody aroma of rosewood, interlaced with the juicy sweetness of ripe peach. This initial burst is brightened by the citrusy sparkle and a hint of coriander, creating a fresh and inviting start. The subtle, crisp scent of freesia adds a delicate touch, reminiscent of a garden in full bloom under the midday sun.

The scent of peach mingles with the faintly spicy aroma of coriander, creating a flavor profile that is both fruity and subtly exotic. Imagine tasting the lush, succulent peaches that grow in a sunlit orchard, their sweetness balanced by the fresh, green notes of freesia and the warm undertones of rosewood.

As you delve deeper into the fragrance, the middle notes unfold like a tapestry of blooming flowers and tropical richness. The distinctive aroma of pittosporum introduces a green, slightly creamy note that blends seamlessly with the tropical essence of ylang-ylang. The air becomes thick with the heady scents of Chinese, Italian, and Egyptian jasmine—each variety contributing its unique floral character. Chinese jasmine offers a sweet, slightly spicy note, while Italian jasmine adds a creamy, rich depth. Egyptian jasmine brings a warm, honeyed quality, perfectly complemented by the crisp, fresh scent of blue hyacinth and the bright, citrusy essence of orange blossom.

The soundscape is alive with the gentle rustling of leaves in the warm breeze and the distant murmur of a bustling market. The occasional song of a nightingale or the soft hum of bees adds a soothing auditory layer to this sensory experience. Your fingers graze over the smooth, sun-warmed surfaces of ancient artifacts and the delicate textures of blooming flowers, enhancing the tactile richness of the environment.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge, creating a rich and sensual finish. The sweet, golden aroma of honey mingles with the warm, comforting scent of musk. The complexity of amber, benzoin, and labdanum adds a resinous depth, evoking the rich, ancient trade routes lined with fragrant spices. The creamy sweetness of vanilla and tonka bean, combined with the earthy warmth of sandalwood, rounds out the scent with a luxurious, enduring finish.

This journey through the Ozbek fragrance is a celebration of cultural richness and sensory delight. The perfume’s composition—a blend of soft florals, exotic spices, and sensual woods—reflects the vibrant tapestry of Central Asia and the Mediterranean. It’s a fragrant voyage that captures the essence of heritage and allure, inviting you to experience the magic of a world where tradition and modernity intertwine in a harmonious, captivating embrace.

 

Bottles:

Ozbek was housed inside of a frosted glass bottle, made to Rifat Ozbek's design, molded in the shape of a minaret, a tall slender tower of a mosque having one or more balconies from which the summons to prayer is cried by the muezzin. Minarets also served as landmarks and symbols of Islam's presence. The cap for the bottle is of aluminum colored resin and topped with a crescent moon. Ozbek said that the bottle is based on an old one he found in an Istanbul market. This must have been the vintage Russian perfume called Kremlin (Kreml) manufactured by Tezhe. This heavy, sweet, perfume, yellow in color, was launched in 1936 in a frosted glass bottle shaped like the minaret-towers at the corners of the Kremlin's walls. He explained, "I wanted it to be very architectural, but transparent so you could see the fragrance."

The design of the Ozbek fragrance bottle reflects Rifat Ozbek's penchant for blending cultural influences with modern aesthetics. Modeled after the shape of a minaret, a prominent architectural feature of mosques and a symbol of Islam, the frosted glass bottle exudes elegance and sophistication.

The minaret-shaped bottle not only pays homage to Ozbek's Turkish heritage but also serves as a nod to the historical significance of minarets as landmarks and symbols of Islamic culture. By incorporating this design element, Ozbek infuses the fragrance with a sense of cultural richness and identity.

The aluminum-colored resin cap, topped with a crescent moon, further reinforces the Islamic motif and adds a touch of symbolism to the packaging. The crescent moon is a well-known symbol in Islamic iconography, representing the lunar calendar and often associated with religious observances.

Ozbek's inspiration for the bottle design, drawn from an old vintage Russian perfume called Kremlin, highlights his appreciation for historical artifacts and his ability to reinterpret them in a contemporary context. The transparency of the bottle allows the fragrance within to be showcased, inviting the consumer to appreciate not only the scent but also the beauty of the packaging itself.

Overall, the design of the Ozbek fragrance bottle reflects Ozbek's creative vision and attention to detail, marrying architectural elements with transparency to create a visually striking and culturally resonant packaging design.

From the Rifat Ozbek perfume book (Agency: Italiana di Comunicazione, Milano): 

"The Bottle: reams and reams of literature have been written, telling of the traveller's emotions on catching a glimpse, from the Bosporus, of the silhouettes of Istanbul's minarets, symbols of tis city, a passage from East to West, a place of charm and memories wrapped in myth. And is to revive these feelings that Rifat Ozbek has chosen for his perfume, a flacon that has the profile of ancient minarets but the modernity of the Occidental world. And so, the exoticism and opulence of the silhouette and the decorations of the bottle are archly contrasted by the cold reflexes of the light produced by sanded glass, and by the colors and severe lines of the packaging, revealing the designer's ethnic roots, and his ability to translate them in a modern, almost high-tech style."

 

Product Line:

The Ozbek fragrance was introduced with a diverse range of options to cater to varying preferences and needs. The line featured several formats:

• 30ml Parfum: The most concentrated and luxurious offering, retailing for $174. This size provided a high-quality, long-lasting scent experience, capturing the essence of Ozbek in its purest form.

• 0.17 oz Eau de Parfum Splash: A miniature version, perfect for travel or sampling, allowing users to carry a touch of the fragrance conveniently.

• 50ml Eau de Parfum Splash: Retailing for $56, this size offered a moderate quantity of the fragrance in a splash format, ideal for those who prefer a more controlled application.

• 75ml Eau de Parfum Splash: Priced at $71, this larger splash bottle provided an economical choice for regular users of the fragrance.

• 50ml Eau de Parfum Spray: At $59, this spray bottle made application easy and even, offering a versatile option for daily use.

• 75ml Eau de Parfum Spray: Retailing for $74, this size provided a generous amount of fragrance in a spray format, combining convenience with value.

Planned Bath Line Introduction:

The Ozbek bath line was scheduled for introduction in Italy during the first quarter of 1996. This expansion aimed to enhance the brand’s presence by offering complementary bath and body products. Typical items in a bath line include shower gels, body lotions, and bath oils, which would allow consumers to enjoy the Ozbek fragrance throughout their entire bathing routine, thereby extending the scent’s longevity and integrating it into daily personal care rituals.

Launching the bath line first in Italy reflected a strategic decision to leverage the country’s rich tradition in perfumery and beauty culture. Italy was chosen as a testing ground to gauge consumer interest and market response before considering a broader rollout. This approach allowed for adjustments based on feedback and performance in a market known for its appreciation of high-quality fragrance products.

At the time of the initial launch, there were no immediate plans to introduce the bath line to the US market. However, the success of the fragrance and the brand’s growth could potentially lead to future opportunities. As consumer preferences and market dynamics evolve, there might be a chance for the bath line to be introduced to new regions, including the United States, depending on demand and market trends.

Overall, the planned expansion of the Ozbek product line into bath and body products represented a strategic effort to diversify and enhance the brand’s offerings. By providing a comprehensive sensory experience, Ozbek aimed to solidify its position in the beauty and fragrance industry, catering to a broad range of consumer needs and preferences.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original Ozbek fragrance was meticulously crafted by Proteo Profumi in Milan, Italy. This early version was renowned for its unique blend of floral and sensual notes, and its design captured the essence of Rifat Ozbek's creative vision. The fragrance was well-received for its sophisticated and exotic profile, setting a high standard for the brand’s future offerings.

By 2006, the Ozbek fragrance underwent a significant transformation. Loft-Monaco took on the task of reformulating the scent, and distribution was handled by IPD Fragrances. Despite the change in production and distribution, Ozbek continued to be available and enjoyed by consumers until 2012. The reformulation ensured that the fragrance remained relevant and appealing, adapting to evolving trends while retaining its core identity.

Unfortunately, as of 2022, the Ozbek fragrance has been discontinued. This marks the end of its availability in the market, leaving a gap for those who had come to cherish its distinctive scent. The discontinuation is a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of fragrances, though the legacy of Ozbek endures in the memories of its loyal admirers.

In a move that showcased his continued innovation in perfumery, Rifat Ozbek introduced a new fragrance, Ozbek 1001. This follow-up creation combined a hint of orange with a rose bouquet base, accented by musk, amber, and a secret ingredient. The fragrance offered a fresh olfactory experience while honoring the original’s legacy. The use of the same flacon design as the original Ozbek underscored a sense of continuity and tribute to the first fragrance, linking the new scent to its predecessor.

The introduction of Ozbek 1001 demonstrated Rifat Ozbek's commitment to evolving his fragrance line while maintaining a connection to his original creation. Although Ozbek and its successor, Ozbek 1001, are no longer available, they represent significant milestones in the world of perfumery. They stand as enduring examples of the artistry and impact of fragrance design, leaving a lasting impression on enthusiasts and collectors alike.