Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere c1987

Bleu de Chine by Marc de la Morandiere: launched in 1987. Created by Pierre Bourdon at Fragrances Ressources.

Bleu de Chine was originally a perfume by Les Parfums Isabey from the 1920s, it is not the same as the Bleu de Chine from Marc de la Morandiere.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: coriander, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose
• Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, balsam, resins, vanilla, tonka bean,  musk

Femme, 1987:

"It was in China that Marc de la Morandière found the fragrance of his first perfume, this floral note where tuberose, rose and coriander mingle. . The deep blue of the bottle and the tenacity of the delicately insinuated scents form a perfect harmony to seduce the gentle, funny and determined woman-woman."

Bottle:

In color and form this bottle for Bleu de Chine perfume relates to the tradition of the famed Chinese faiences of the Ming Dynasty. The beautiful bottle was designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1987. The blue and white lacquer is hand applied. It was produced in France by both Pochet et du Courval and Verreries de la Bresle.

A harder to find Bleu de Chine bottle is frosted, transparent, blue glass with a black screw cap. I have only seen this bottle as a 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette miniature.

Serge Mansau for Marc de la Morandiere. Bleu de Chine, 1987. Study and trends box, containing the elements of inspiration and models that allowed the creation of the bottle.  

The original, vintage formula was available in the following:

• 1 oz Parfum
• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette miniature bottle stands 1.5" tall.
• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• Factice (dummy) glass bottle stands 9" tall.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The fragrance is reputed to have been reformulated in 1994. The earlier bottles were distributed by Alfin Fragrances, Inc. at least until 1999, by 2001, the brand was owned by Adrien Arpel, Inc.

The original, vintage versions have been discontinued, date unknown. You can still purchase old stock from the Marc de la Morandiere website. These limited edition bottles are the same as those from 1987.

A new version in a completely different bottle has been released in 2014 as part of La Collection. The notes are said to be the same as the original, but I do not know how they stack up to one another when testing side by side, I need some samples. It is available in the following on the Marc de la Morandiere website:

• 1 oz Eau de Parfum
• 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum

From the 2014, Marc de la Morandiere press kit:

"The enchantment of an intense fragrance, which transports you to a voluptuous sensory world. The finesse and sensuality of a bottle in deep cobalt blue, precious like porcelain of the Ming Dynasty. A prestigious perfume exhilarating the senses. A lacquered finish for this majestic bottle, sublimating the essence. A contrast in sensations where the zesty citrus lightens up the warmth of the vanilla and of the tonka beans. The mystifying tuberose unites with the exotic touch of the ylang ylang. This unique and captivating scent will transport you to the depths of the Extreme Orient, never ending source of inspiration for this mysterious fragrance created with the talented Pierre Bourdon."

Also, Bleu de Chine No. 2 was released sometime in the 1990s. Its bottle is the same shape as its sister, the original, but it is enameled in white and has a blue stopper. It is available in the following:

• 0.17 oz Eau de Toilette miniature
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray