Fantastique by D'Orsay c1952

The perfume "Fantastique" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched in 1952, a period marked by post-World War II recovery and a surge in optimism and creativity. This era saw the emergence of new social norms and cultural shifts as people embraced modernity and sought to leave the hardships of the war behind. The 1950s were characterized by a sense of glamour and sophistication, with the fashion and beauty industries flourishing as women sought to express their newfound freedom and individuality.

The name "Fantastique" translates to "fantastic" in English, conveying a sense of wonder, excellence, and extraordinary qualities. Parfums D'Orsay likely chose this name to encapsulate the spirit of the time, aiming to offer a fragrance that was not only appealing but also evocative of the dreams and aspirations of the era. The term "fantastique" suggests something out of the ordinary, enchanting, and magical, making it a fitting name for a perfume intended to evoke a sense of allure and mystery.

"Fantastique" would be an appropriate name for a perfume as it conveys a sense of extraordinary beauty and captivating charm. In perfumery, the concept of intoxication is often used to describe the effect a fragrance can have on the senses, creating an almost hypnotic allure that draws people in. A perfume named "Fantastique" would aim to intoxicate the wearer and those around her with its enchanting scent, leaving a memorable impression.

La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty c1902

During the Edwardian era, garden parties reigned as the epitome of social gatherings among the elite. These events, steeped in tradition and elegance, provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing the latest floral marvels, including the coveted Jacqueminot rose. As guests mingled amidst the lush blooms, sipping on cool drinks, and indulging in dainty treats served al fresco, the successful blooming of the Jacqueminot rose stood as a testament to the host's horticultural prowess and status within polite society.

In the picturesque settings of these lively garden parties, elegant women adorned themselves in ethereal white lawn dresses, known as lingerie dresses, evoking a sense of timeless grace and sophistication. Their ensembles were complemented by large wide-brimmed picture hats, adorned with whimsical accents such as stuffed birds and blooming flowers, anchored in place by long, fancy hat pins.

As they chatted away amidst the fragrant blooms, these women may have held delicate hand-painted porcelain cups in one hand, savoring the refreshing taste of sweet iced tea or lemonade, while using a fancy hand fan in the other to cool off from the summer heat. Their attire was completed with pristine white gloves, adding a touch of refinement to their ensemble.

The tables were adorned with lace tablecloths, polished silver flatware, and sparkling crystal lemonade pitchers, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance. Amidst this scene of sophistication, the delicate aroma of the Jacqueminot rose lingered in the air, adding a layer of romantic allure to the festivities. With every breath, guests were transported to a realm of timeless beauty and refined luxury, where the essence of the rose intertwined seamlessly with the splendor of the garden party.

La Rose Jacqueminot, with its rich, floral scent, would have been well-received in this context. Named after the highly fragrant breed of roses, the perfume evoked a sense of luxury and romance. The association with the Napoleonic era added to its allure, tapping into the nostalgia for a romanticized past.

The popularity of La Rose Jacqueminot perfume mirrored the fascination with the Jacqueminot rose, capturing the essence of its exquisite fragrance and timeless beauty. Just as guests reveled in the splendor of the flowering garden at these garden parties, so too did wearers of the perfume immerse themselves in the allure of its romantic aroma, evoking images of sun-drenched garden paths and vibrant blossoms in full bloom.

Against the backdrop of these esteemed gatherings, where society loosened its reins and embraced the joys of nature and camaraderie, the Jacqueminot rose emerged as a cherished centerpiece, admired by all who beheld its radiant blooms. Its delicate petals, imbued with the essence of La Rose Jacqueminot, added a touch of elegance and refinement to the festivities, ensuring that these garden parties remained unforgettable affairs, steeped in beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the rose.

 

In the United States, where La Rose Jacqueminot was introduced by 1906, the perfume would have been particularly popular among the growing middle class, who aspired to the lifestyle and glamour associated with European perfumes.

Eisenberg

Eisenberg of Chicago, IL, was a renowned name in the American fashion and beauty industry, known for its glamorous costume jewelry, clothing, and, by 1941, an equally sophisticated line of perfumes and cosmetics. The company’s offerings were exclusive, with its products available only in select department stores across major American cities. This approach ensured that each city had a single retailer carrying Eisenberg's complete collection, adding an air of exclusivity and prestige to the brand.

The fragrance line included four custom scents, each packaged with an eye for style and elegance that matched the brand’s reputation. The perfumes were designed to be as refined and fashionable as Eisenberg’s jewelry and garments, creating a complete sensory experience for customers. The company’s fragrances, along with its luxurious cosmetics, were a perfect complement to the upscale image Eisenberg cultivated through its fashion and accessories, catering to a clientele that valued sophistication, exclusivity, and high-quality craftsmanship.

Subtilite by Houbigant c 1920

In 1920, the world was transitioning from the aftermath of World War I into a new era characterized by a mix of relief and burgeoning cultural movements. The Roaring Twenties had just begun, ushering in a time of economic prosperity, artistic innovation, and social change. This decade saw the rise of jazz music, flapper fashion, and a general sense of exuberance and liberation. In the realm of perfumery, this period marked a significant shift toward more complex and refined scents, reflecting the newfound optimism and sophistication of society. The launch of Subtilité by Parfums Houbigant in 1920 captured the essence of this dynamic time, combining elegance and innovation in a fragrance that appealed to the modern sensibilities of the era.

The name "Subtilité" is derived from the French word for "subtlety" in English. French, known for its association with romance, sophistication, and luxury, is a fitting choice for a perfume name, particularly one crafted by a prestigious French fragrance house like Houbigant. The choice of the name "Subtilité" underscores the brand's emphasis on refinement and the art of nuanced scent composition.

Houbigant likely chose the name "Subtilité" to convey the intricate and delicate nature of the perfume. The word suggests an understated elegance, a complexity that reveals itself gradually rather than overwhelming the senses at first sniff. This aligns with Houbigant's reputation for creating sophisticated and multi-layered fragrances that cater to a discerning clientele. By naming the perfume "Subtilité," Houbigant emphasizes the art of subtlety in perfumery, where the beauty of the scent lies in its refined and gentle unfolding.

"Subtilité" is an apt name for a perfume because it conveys the idea of a scent that is refined, intricate, and delicate. Such a name suggests a fragrance that offers a sophisticated experience, appealing to those who appreciate the finer details and complexities of a well-crafted perfume. It implies a sense of elegance and grace, making it a fitting descriptor for a fragrance that is meant to be savored and appreciated over time.

Parfums Guermantes

Parfums Guermantes was founded in 1936 by Claude Caron, a chemist and entrepreneur, at 24 rue de la Paix, Paris, one of the most prestigious shopping streets in the city. Caron, who also operated a pharmacy at this address, ventured into perfumery during a period when Parisian fragrance houses were at the height of their global influence. The choice of the name Guermantes was a nod to Marcel Proust's À la recherche du temps perdu (In Search of Lost Time), referencing the aristocratic Guermantes family in the novel. This literary connection added a sense of sophistication and cultural prestige to the brand.

Claude Caron, the father of famed actress Leslie Caron, infused his fragrances with both scientific precision and artistic flair. His work in perfumery extended through some of the most turbulent periods of modern history, including World War II, during which he continued to produce perfumes despite the challenges of material shortages and wartime restrictions. In fact, Caron recycled bottles from the Lubin perfume house due to post-war rationing and shortages. After the war, the company relocated to 3 place de la Madeleine, Paris, another address synonymous with luxury and refinement.

4 Vents by Revillon c1950

In 1950, when Revillon launched the perfume "4 Vents" in France, the world was experiencing a period of recovery and transformation following the end of World War II. Europe, in particular, was rebuilding its cities, economies, and societies. This era was marked by a sense of optimism and a desire for new beginnings. The fashion and beauty industries were thriving, with a renewed emphasis on luxury and elegance. By the time "4 Vents" was introduced to the United States in 1952, America was in the midst of a post-war economic boom, characterized by consumerism, suburban growth, and a fascination with new products and innovations.

The name "4 Vents" translates to "Four Winds" in English and is derived from French. Revillon, a Parisian furrier and luxury brand, chose this name to evoke the idea of global reach and universal appeal. The phrase "four winds" suggests something that spans across the entire world, touching every corner and bringing a sense of adventure and exploration.

Revillon likely chose the name "4 Vents" to convey a sense of elegance and sophistication that transcends geographical boundaries. The notion of the four winds can be associated with the four cardinal directions—north, south, east, and west—implying a fragrance that is as diverse and encompassing as the winds themselves. It suggests a perfume that captures the essence of various cultures and landscapes, appealing to a cosmopolitan clientele.

Grandiflorum Perfumes Ltd.

Grandiflorum Perfumes Ltd., based in Berkeley, California, epitomized the art of natural perfumery by combining modern sensibilities with time-honored craftsmanship. The brand’s dedication to purity extended to every aspect of their creation process, from the selection of ingredients to the design of their packaging.

All Grandiflorum fragrances were housed in elegant glass bottles crafted by the renowned French manufacturer Pochet et du Courval, a company with a storied history of producing exquisite flacons for luxury perfume houses. These bottles served not just as vessels for the fragrances but as a testament to the brand’s commitment to quality and artistry.

At the heart of Grandiflorum’s philosophy was a steadfast adherence to natural purity. Every fragrance was composed exclusively of pure and natural ingredients, entirely free from petrochemicals. This ensured not only a luxurious olfactory experience but also a product that aligned with the growing demand for ethical and sustainable practices in perfumery.

To achieve such uncompromising quality, Grandiflorum relied on ISHA® essential oils, which were sourced from around the globe. These essential oils were meticulously batch-tested for purity, ensuring that each ingredient met the highest standards. This rigorous approach allowed Grandiflorum to craft scents that were as authentic and vibrant as the botanicals from which they were derived, offering a sensory experience that was both luxurious and rooted in nature.

Through their dedication to natural ingredients and artisanal production, Grandiflorum Perfumes Ltd. positioned itself as a pioneer in the revival of pure, natural perfumery, creating fragrances that celebrated both tradition and innovation.

Parfums D'Hortys

The perfumery and cosmetic house was founded by Max Heidelberg in 1917, located at 100 avenue du Roule in Neuilly, Seine. Heidelberg’s establishment contributed to the flourishing French fragrance industry during a period of significant growth in perfumery following World War I. The house developed a reputation for producing fine perfumes and beauty products, catering to the evolving tastes of the early 20th-century clientele.

In 1927, the business was acquired by Maurice Blanchet (Blanched), who was also associated with Coryse Salomé, a well-known French cosmetics brand. This acquisition allowed the Heidelberg brand to benefit from Blanchet's expertise in cosmetics, bringing the two entities under shared management. Coryse Salomé's influence likely expanded the reach and innovation of the perfumery, blending traditional perfume-making with modern cosmetic advancements.

Kif by Tonino Lamborghini c1981

Tonino Lamborghini’s choice of the name "Kif" for a perfume launched in 1981 reflects a blend of exotic allure and cultural significance. The word "Kif" carries rich connotations, especially in North Africa and parts of the Arab world, where it refers to a traditional mixture of cannabis and tobacco, often used in social and relaxing contexts. In Arabic, the word "kif" (كيف) roughly translates to "pleasure" or "well-being," evoking images of relaxation, contentment, and indulgence. The choice of this name for a fragrance suggests an experience meant to evoke a state of calm and enjoyment, perhaps reminiscent of the leisurely, laid-back vibe associated with its namesake.

In the context of Morocco and North Africa, "kif" can symbolize a break from the fast pace of daily life, a chance to unwind and embrace simple pleasures. This association with relaxation, pleasure, and a mild sense of euphoria ties perfectly into the mood of an oriental fragrance—a category often characterized by warmth, depth, and sensuality. For European and Mediterranean women in the 1980s, the name "Kif" may have evoked images of exoticism, mystery, and a journey into foreign lands, aligning well with the allure of a fragrance that promised a blend of spices, florals, and rare oils.

Books Wanted

I have an extensive library of perfumery reference books, but I'm always eager to expand my collection. Below is a list of titles I am still seeking. I am interested in acquiring these at reasonable prices or through trades—offering either perfume appraisals or fragrances I have available for sale. Donations are also very much appreciated, as they help me ensure the highest accuracy across my blog posts and related websites. If you have a book that isn’t listed here, please feel free to reach out!

1. DICTIONNAIRE DES PARFUMS DE FRANCE (any volume)
2. Tableau des Fragrances (The Fragrance Information Reference),. Givaudan-Roure, 1992.
3. Classification des parfums, Paris: Comité Français du Parfum (1984/1990)
4. The Fragrance Foundation Reference Guide (any volume)
5. Les Parfums du Monde by C and D Berger
6. Cult Perfumes: The World's Most Exclusive Perfumeries by Tessa Williams
7. The Essence of Perfume by Roja Dove
8. Glamour Icons: Perfume Bottle Design by Marc Rosen by Marc Rosen
9. Caron by Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg 
10. Fabulous Fragrances I : A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Women and Men by Jan Moran
11. Fabulous Fragrances II : A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Women and Men by Jan Moran
12. Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris by Christopher Kemp
13. Générations Bourjois by Geneviève Fontan
14. Molinard Parfumeur - distillateur de fleurs depuis 1849 by Tim White
15. Caron: The Secret Charm of a Perfumed House by Gregoire Colard
16. Parfum-Flacons by Beatrice Frankl
17. Perfume Fantasies by F. Ghozland
18. R. Lalique by Felix Marcilhac
19. The Crown Top Book by Pauline Turco
20. Scent Bottles Through The Centuries: The Collection of Joan Hermanowski
21. A Guide To Sandwich Glass by Raymond E. Barlow
22. Scent Bottles Through The Ages by Lynda Brine and Nancy Whitaker
23. Le Memoire des Parfums by Clarence Duchesne
24. Fragrances of the World by Michael Edwards
25. The Fragrance Adviser by Michael Edwards
26. Objets de la Beaute a Collectionner by Laurence Mouillefarine
27. Heavenly Scents by Pamela F. Taylor
28. The Art of René Lalique flacons and powder boxes by Christie Mayer Lefkowith
29. Any Haarman and Reimer books on perfumery in English or French, not German
30. Frimousse d'or: Les tabernacles de la beauté by Geneviève Fontan
31. Un Siecle d'Echantillons de Guerlain by Atlas & Monniot
32. Le Roman des Guerlain by Elisabeth Feydeau
33. Flacons Guerlain by Bernard Gangler
34. Parfums de Collection: Deux siecles parfumes by Bernard Gangler
35. Generations Guerlain by Genevieve Fontan
36. Generations Nina Ricci by Genevieve Fontan
37. Esprit de Parfums by Christian Dior
38. Parfums d'Orient by Lebeau, Richard
39. Parfums de Gloire by Genevieve Fontan
40. Parfums d'Extase by Genevieve Fontan
41. Vintage Perfumes by Jan Moran
42. Parfumeurs et Flacons d'Antan by Marie-Hélène Aubane
43. L'ABCdaire du parfum by Nicolas de Barry
44. Perfumes and Spices by Alpheus Hyatt Verrill
45. Parfum Flacons by Peter Groth 
46. Serge Mansau Sculpteur de Flacons
47. Christian Dior: The Spirit of Perfumes
48. Scent Bottles by Kate Foster 
49. The Book of Perfumes by John Oakes
50. Scent and Scent Bottles by Launert, Edmund
51. Porcelain Scent bottles: The Giordano Collection by Andreina D'Agliano, Simone Caliri
52. The Chelsea Porcelain Toys, Scent-Bottles, Bonbonnieres, Etuis, Seals and Statuettes, Made at the Chelsea Factory, 1745-1769, & Derby Chelsea, 1770-1784
53. Roger et Gallet L'Art de la Toilette de 1862 a Nos Jours.
54. Questions d'Etiquettes Mille et Une Etiquettes de 1830 a Nos Jours.
55. La Legende du Chevalier d'Orsay Parfums de Dandy
56. Myrurgia, 1916-1936, belleza y glamour

A very special thanks to my friend, Amelia Chatham, for sending me the book, Paul Poiret and his Rosine Perfumes by Christie Mayer Lefkowith. This volume helped me fill out several articles on my Paul Poiret & Rosine Perfumes website and the photos are incredible.

A very special thanks to my friend Susan Arthur, for sending me past issues of the Perfume Bottle Quarterly so I am always up to date on various perfume and related items. These quarterly issues are only available to members of the International Perfume Bottle Association, they are an absolute treasure trove of information, trivia and beautiful photos! You never know what will be in the next issue. I invite everyone to join the club and expand your collecting horizons, your knowledge, and your network of like-minded friends from around the world.

A very special thanks to my friend, MJ Reader, for sending me the following books to help update my articles and add accurate information: Vintage Perfumes by Jan Moran, Fabulous Fragrances I : A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Women and Men by Jan Moran, Fabulous Fragrances II : A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Women and Men by Jan Moran, and for replacing my damaged copy of The Book of Perfumes by John Oakes. These books are integral to all of my perfume websites. They provide fragrance profiles and notes on individual perfumes. A wealth of information.