Amazone by Hermes c1974

Amazone by Hermès was introduced in 1974, first making its debut in France before arriving in the United States in late 1976 as part of a limited holiday release. By 1977, the fragrance was placed into general distribution across the U.S. At the time, Hermès was seeking to expand its fragrance offerings for women, as its only existing perfume was Calèche. According to Pierre de Seynes, then director general and president of Hermès, the two perfumes were meant to provide contrasting identities: "A discreet and reserved blend of expensive floral essences, Calèche is safe and conservative, while Amazone is for the woman who does not mind being noticed." The introduction of Amazone marked a shift toward a more assertive and modern fragrance profile, one that embodied confidence and vitality.

The name Amazone was a deliberate choice, reflecting a spirit of independence, strength, and elegance. In French, the word simply refers to a female equestrian, particularly one who rides side-saddle—a practice historically associated with aristocratic women. A 1977 reference to the perfume’s U.S. launch connected the name to the amazone saddle, a side-saddle style used by Queen Elizabeth I of England, who believed that women should ride alongside men. This connection positioned Amazone as a fitting symbol for the liberated woman of the 1970s—assertive, graceful, and unafraid to take her place in the world. Furthermore, Hermès, with its deep equestrian heritage, found the name especially appropriate, reinforcing the brand’s association with refined sport and luxury.

Marketing materials for Amazone underscored its radiant and adventurous character. One advertisement declared, “Hermès' most recent perfume is an absolutely radiant beauty named Amazone. Constant flowers are accompanied by cedar and peach, mandarin and orange blossom. Follow your instincts. Indulge your desires. Abandon yourself to Amazone, the fragrance that captures the spirit of the age, the nature of women today.” The perfume was described as a symbol of free and modern femininity, drawing inspiration from the mythical Amazons—legendary female warriors said to have ruled the lands around the Black Sea.

The mid-1970s was a time of shifting cultural tides, often referred to as the era of Second-Wave Feminism. Women were increasingly asserting independence in various aspects of life—career, fashion, and personal expression. This was the decade of Annie Hall-style androgynous chic, bold pantsuits, flowing maxi dresses, and the rise of activewear as everyday fashion. The fragrance market reflected these societal changes, moving away from the ultra-feminine, aldehydic florals of the 1950s and early 1960s toward fresher, more vibrant, and more unisex compositions. In this context, Amazone, with its blend of bright citrus, fresh florals, and woody undertones, offered a sophisticated yet energetic alternative to both the traditional florals of the past and the emerging green chypres of the decade.

Interpreted in scent, Amazone embodied the duality of its name: a perfume that was both elegant and powerful, refined yet untamed. The fragrance balanced lively citrus notes with lush florals, underscored by a subtle yet assertive woody base. This contrasted with many of the dominant trends of the time, which leaned either toward the assertive chypres like Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent or the deep, resinous Orientals that would gain popularity toward the decade’s end. Amazone managed to carve its own niche, presenting a fragrance that was radiant, fresh, and decisively modern.

The myth of the Amazons had long captured the imagination, symbolizing female strength, autonomy, and courage. In antiquity, they were depicted as fierce warriors who lived independently of men, riding into battle with unmatched skill. Their legend had been revived and reinterpreted throughout history, from classical art to literature and film. For a fragrance, the Amazonian inspiration was particularly potent—conveying the idea of a woman who was both graceful and strong, someone who did not conform to societal expectations but instead created her own path. With Amazone, Hermès encapsulated this vision in scent, offering women of the 1970s a fragrance that resonated with the era’s evolving ideals of femininity.

Pierre de Seynes emphasized the meticulous effort that went into creating Amazone, collaborating with some of the world's most esteemed perfumers. "It took us five years and over a million dollars to get it right," he remarked, underscoring the extensive development process behind the fragrance. Hermès was particularly conscious of the name’s interpretation, seeking to redefine Amazone beyond any aggressive or militant connotations. "In France, Amazone doesn't mean a war-like woman on horseback, but simply a daring, intrepid, contemporary woman. We have designed our perfume for this type of woman," de Seynes explained. The fragrance was crafted to embody confidence, modernity, and a refined adventurous spirit, aligning with Hermès' heritage of elegance and equestrian tradition.

Maurice Maurin composed Amazone in 1974, centering the fragrance around the distinctive note of blackcurrant bud. This choice added a fresh, green-fruity facet that set Amazone apart from many of its contemporaries. By 1979, Simon Xavier Guerrand-Hermès, a descendant of Thierry Hermès, highlighted the perfume’s unique evolution on the skin, noting its impressive diffusiveness and projection. "It begins smelling floral, then turns fruity, and finally becomes a combination of the floral and cedar. It is elegant and ladylike, yet sensual and womanly," he described. The composition balanced fruits, woods, and classic florals such as rose and jasmine. Unlike many perfumes of the time that leaned heavily into sweetness, powderiness, or overt sensuality, Amazone was designed to be fresh yet strong, sophisticated yet vibrant.

The fragrance’s complexity lay in its carefully layered structure. Constant floral notes, including jonquil, narcissus, rose, jasmine, and iris, were intertwined with fruit accents like peach, mandarin, and orange blossom. Woody elements such as cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver grounded the composition, while musk, amber, costus, cistus, and castoreum imparted depth and lasting power. One of Amazone's defining characteristics was its ability to unfold throughout the day, revealing different facets over time. De Seynes advised that the perfume should be applied to areas where the blood pulsates—on the wrists, elbows, and behind the knees—rather than too close to the face, allowing its evolving nature to be fully experienced.

Hermès envisioned Amazone as an expression of the free-spirited, contemporary woman, a fragrance that encapsulated both grace and dynamism. It was designed to complement a woman’s natural movement, much like the refined artistry of a well-crafted Hermès saddle. With its sophisticated blend of florals, fruits, and woods, Amazone resonated with the era’s evolving ideals of femininity—one that embraced elegance without constraint, strength without severity, and sensuality without excess.

  In 1979, Simon Xavier Guerrand-Hermès traced the origins of Amazone to the house's deep-rooted equestrian heritage. "My ancestor turned saddle-making into an art," he stated, referring to Thierry Hermès, the founder of the luxury brand. Among Hermès' innovations was the creation of the first sidesaddle for women, allowing them to ride comfortably while wearing long skirts. This breakthrough made it possible for women to participate in activities such as fox hunting, a sport previously dominated by men. Female equestrians who adopted this riding style became known as les Amazones, a name that embodied both their boldness and their willingness to engage in a traditionally male pursuit. Over time, the term extended to the saddle itself, a name still in use. "In fact, 5,000 ladies still ride Amazone in the United States," Guerrand-Hermès noted, reinforcing the enduring legacy of both the saddle and the women who rode with it. Given this strong equine connection, Hermès found it fitting to name their newest fragrance Amazone, reflecting not just a scent but a spirit of daring and independence.

The historical significance of the sidesaddle extended beyond equestrianism, representing an evolution in women's mobility and freedom. It was said that Queen Elizabeth I, a formidable figure in history, believed that women should ride alongside men. As a result, the sidesaddle was initially designed for her, allowing women to move more freely without sacrificing the modesty imposed by their attire. "Motion is freedom," said Guerrand-Hermès, emphasizing that before the sidesaddle, women had been restricted in their ability to travel independently. With this innovation, they could now journey from one place to another with ease—an advancement that symbolized more than just a change in riding style but a step toward autonomy.

The choice of the name Amazone naturally sparked curiosity. "Invariably, the first question we are asked about Amazone is, 'Why the name?'" Guerrand-Hermès acknowledged. While the term might evoke the legendary warrior women of antiquity, Hermès sought to highlight another group of women often overlooked in discussions of female liberation—those who first dared to ride horses with the same confidence and freedom as men. "Let us not forget that all descriptions of Amazons in literature heralded their beauty as well as their courage," he added. With Amazone, Hermès paid homage not only to mythology but also to the real-life female equestrians who challenged societal norms. The fragrance was intended to capture their strength, elegance, and independence, embodying the fearless yet refined spirit of les Amazones of both past and present.

Hermès Amazone was first introduced in France in late 1974, with the company anticipating its swift success across Europe. "Within a year, we reckon that 200,000 women in Europe will be using it. And it will reach America sometime in 1975," stated Jean-Louis de Seynes. The fragrance made its initial arrival in the United States in 1976 as part of a special limited distribution for the Christmas season. However, it was not until 1977 that Amazone was officially launched for general distribution across the country, marking its formal entry into the American market.

The grand introduction of Amazone in the United States was celebrated with an exclusive luncheon benefiting the Children’s Village in Dobbs Ferry, NY, a residential treatment center for emotionally disturbed children. Held at the famed Tavern on the Green in Central Park, the event welcomed approximately 300 distinguished guests. To honor the fragrance’s equestrian inspiration, a special exhibition took place along the bridle path adjacent to the restaurant. Eight young women, dressed in elegant Victorian-era riding attire, performed an exquisite display of side-saddle riding, demonstrating their skill in trotting, galloping, and even jumping. Among the accomplished equestrians were Valerie Gimbe and Miss Denise Lee. Janet Macdonald, chairman of the Worldwide Ladies Side Saddle Association, served as the event’s commentator, sharing insights from her own experience as a riding instructor to further engage the audience.

By 1977, Amazone was featured in prominent American department stores, including Saks Fifth Avenue, I. Magnin, and Bloomingdale’s. A contemporary reference to the fragrance highlighted its symbolic connection to history and female empowerment, noting, "Amazone is named for the amazone saddle, the side saddle ridden by Elizabeth I of England, who felt that women should ride alongside men. Therefore, the name is appropriate for today’s liberated woman." This statement reinforced Amazone’s identity not just as a luxurious perfume but as an emblem of independence, confidence, and refinement, aligning seamlessly with Hermès’ tradition of honoring the elegance and strength of the modern woman.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Amazone by Hermes is classified as an aldehydic fruity floral fragrance for women. It begins with a green fruity top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a woody, mossy base.

Subtle blending of jonquil and "barely bloomed" narcissus, of fresh picked peach and blackcurrant bud, of Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris and polianthes, ylang ylang, cedar, sandalwood and vetiver are added, as are Tibetan musk, natural ambergris, costus, cistus and castoreum.

• Top notes: aldehydes, North American blackberry, Sicilian lemon, Spanish mandarin orange, Calabrian bergamot, Georgian peach, Polish strawberry, Florida grapefruit, Portuguese tangerine, Persian galbanum, Tuscan violet leaves, Brazilian rosewood, Russian blackcurrant bud
• Middle notes: Dutch hyacinth, Bulgarian rose, Moroccan daffodil, Algerian jonquil, Tunisian orange blossom, Egyptian narcissus, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, raspberry, Alpine lily of the valley, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Mexican polianthes tuberosa
• Base notes: Tibetan musk, ambergris, Vietnamese cinnamon, Maltese cistus labdanum, Himalayan costus, Canadian castoreum, Italian orris, Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Virginian cedarwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

Amazone by Hermès unfolds like a journey through lush landscapes, sun-drenched orchards, and shadowy forests, each note revealing a carefully curated ingredient sourced from the world's most renowned regions. The fragrance opens with a radiant burst of aldehydes, their effervescent sparkle creating an airy, champagne-like brightness that instantly lifts the senses. This crispness gives way to the succulent sweetness of North American blackberry, its deep purple juiciness evoking the tang of sun-warmed brambles. 

Sicilian lemon follows, its zesty brightness reminiscent of Mediterranean groves where the fruit ripens under the golden sun, releasing an invigorating citrus sharpness. Spanish mandarin orange and Portuguese tangerine lend their own playful contrast—one juicy and slightly floral, the other rich with honeyed warmth. Calabrian bergamot, the finest of its kind, adds a refined, citrusy sophistication, its green-tinged bitterness tempering the sweetness of Polish strawberry, a rare and delicately perfumed variety. 

The Georgian peach, known for its velvety skin and sun-ripened juiciness, mingles with the crisp, green sharpness of Persian galbanum, while Tuscan violet leaves contribute a whisper of powdery earthiness. Brazilian rosewood enriches this opening with a soft, resinous warmth, and Russian blackcurrant bud, pungent and intensely green, rounds out the top with an unexpected herbal-fruity twist, its scent reminiscent of crushed leaves and tart berries.

As the fragrance blooms, its heart reveals an intoxicating floral bouquet, as if stepping into a grand European garden in full bloom. Dutch hyacinth, with its waxy, dewy petals, introduces a fresh, slightly peppery greenness, complementing the voluptuousness of Bulgarian rose, renowned for its complex, honeyed richness. Moroccan daffodil and Algerian jonquil exude a narcotic sweetness, their golden intensity tempered by the ethereal, almost luminous quality of Tunisian orange blossom. 

Egyptian narcissus, a regal flower with a green, almost leathery depth, intertwines with Florentine iris, whose cool, powdery elegance lends a vintage sophistication. Grasse jasmine, cultivated in the perfume capital of the world, unfolds with its velvety sensuality, while raspberry adds a touch of tart juiciness, as if plucked straight from the vine. Alpine lily of the valley, fresh and dewy, brings a delicate whisper of spring, its fragile bells offering an innocent contrast to the exotic, creamy depth of Nossi-Be ylang ylang from Madagascar. Mexican polianthes tuberosa, once prized by the Aztecs, rich and heady, lingers in the background, its narcotic opulence deepening the floral core with a luminous, white-floral intensity.

As Amazone settles onto the skin, its base emerges with a warm, resinous embrace. Tibetan musk, rare and profoundly animalic, weaves through the composition, softening its florals with a sensual, skin-like warmth. Natural ambergris, aged and oceanic, adds a salty, almost leathery depth, while Vietnamese cinnamon unfurls its rich, spicy fire, tempering the sweetness with a dry, woody sharpness. Maltese cistus labdanum, with its balsamic richness, provides a smoky, resinous undertone, while Himalayan costus lends an earthy, slightly animalic depth, grounding the fragrance in a whisper of ancient mystery. 

Canadian castoreum, with its dark, leathery richness, enhances the fragrance’s sensuality, blending seamlessly with Italian orris, whose buttery, powdery softness lingers like a whisper of vintage elegance. Mysore sandalwood, the finest and most sought-after in the world, brings its warm, creamy, almost milky smoothness, melding effortlessly with Haitian vetiver, which adds a grassy, smoky earthiness. Virginian cedarwood lends a crisp, dry, pencil-shaving-like sharpness, while Yugoslavian oakmoss envelops the composition in its damp, forest-floor richness, giving Amazone its final touch of enigmatic depth.

The fragrance moves through its phases with grace, shifting effortlessly from sparkling fruitiness to lush florals and finally to a warm, woody embrace. Each ingredient tells a story of origin, craftsmanship, and olfactory artistry, making Amazone not merely a perfume but an olfactory journey through some of the world's most fragrant and evocative landscapes. It is a scent for the daring, intrepid woman—one who moves with elegance yet exudes undeniable strength, much like the Amazones of history who first rode alongside men, defying convention with effortless poise.

Bottles:

The original Amazone bottle by Hermès exudes understated elegance, its clear glass allowing the golden-hued fragrance within to glow softly, like sunlight filtering through amber. Subtly frosted onto the surface is the signature Hermès "H," a refined yet unmistakable mark of the house’s craftsmanship and heritage. This delicate contrast between transparency and frost lends a tactile depth to the bottle, elevating its simple form with an air of quiet sophistication. Encasing this timeless design is an outer package in rich maroon and soft taupe—an unexpected yet harmonious pairing of colors that reflects both the boldness and refinement of Amazone itself. The deep maroon suggests a sense of tradition and regal elegance, while the taupe adds a muted, modern subtlety, balancing the composition much like the fragrance inside—where vibrant florals and rich woods meet in perfect equilibrium.

Amazone was originally available in the following:

• 0.21 oz Refillable Parfum Spray (originally retailed for $28 in 1977)
• Ref. 12.214 - 0.21 oz Perfume Atomizer
• Ref. 12.814 - 0.21 oz Parfum Spray Refill
• Ref. 72.227 - 0.25 oz Parfum Aerospray 
• Ref. 72230 - 0.33 oz Parfum Aerospray
• 1 oz Parfum Aerospray (originally retailed for $85 in 1977)
• Ref. 12801 - 1 oz Parfum Aerospray Refill 

• Ref. 2.214 - 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
• Ref. 2.212 - 0.50 oz Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $37.50 in 1977)
• Ref. 2.201 - 1 oz Parfum Splash (originally retailed for $70 in 1977)
• Ref. 2.202 - 2 oz Parfum Splash 

• Ref. 72642 - 0.8 oz Eau de Toilette Aerospray
• Ref. 72645 - 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Aerospray
• Ref. 72602 - 2 oz Eau de Toilette Aerospray (originally retailed for $12.50 in 1977)
• Ref. 12.602 - 2 oz Eau de Toilette Atomizer
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Aerospray
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Aerospray (originally retailed for $20 in 1977)

• Ref. 2642 - 0.8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash mini
• Ref. 52.614 - 0.23 oz Eau de Toilette Splash mini
• Ref. 2601 - 1 oz Splash Eau de Toilette
• Ref. 2645 - 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• Ref. 2650 - 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• Ref. 2.604 - 3.8 oz Splash Eau de Toilette
• Ref. 2604 - 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (originally retailed for $18 in 1977)
• 6.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• Ref. 2608 - 8.11 oz (240ml) Eau de Toilette Splash (originally retailed for $30 in 1977)
• 16 oz Splash Eau de Toilette
• 32 oz Splash Eau de Toilette

Ancillary products were also available:

• Ref. 72.704 - 4.2 oz Deodorant Aerospray 
• Ref. 65.10.30 - 6.5 oz Bath & Shower Gel
• Ref. 65. 10.20 - 4 oz Body Lotion
• Soap
• Talc parfumé
• Voile parfumé

Amazone Light:

Amazone Light, Eau de Fraîcheur, introduced in 1994, offers a delicate yet multifaceted take on the original Amazone, infused with an effervescent citrus brightness that feels effortlessly airy. Designed for daytime wear and the warmer seasons, this interpretation softens the fragrance’s signature complexity, allowing crisp, sunlit notes to shine. The composition opens with a burst of zesty freshness, a sparkling medley of citrus that dances lightly on the skin before mellowing into a soft, green floral heart. Unlike its richer predecessor, Amazone Light is fleeting in its presence, lingering for only about two hours—a whisper of fragrance rather than a statement, perfect for those who seek a subtle veil of scent that refreshes and uplifts without overwhelming.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1989, Amazone underwent a reformulation that altered its composition, refining its structure while maintaining its spirit. The original formula, rich with aldehydic sparkle, green florals, and complex fruity nuances, was softened in this later version, resulting in a more streamlined yet still elegant interpretation. The vibrant burst of North American blackberry, Sicilian lemon, Persian galbanum, and a medley of citrus fruits that once defined the opening was replaced by a more traditional blend of bergamot and geranium, lending a fresher, more balanced introduction. The inclusion of cassie and hyacinth preserves some of the original’s green floral character, though the intensity of its fruity brightness is noticeably subdued.

The heart of the fragrance also saw a shift, with the original’s opulent bouquet of Bulgarian rose, Tunisian orange blossom, Egyptian narcissus, and exotic polianthes giving way to a more classical floral composition. Lily of the valley (muguet), orris, rose, and jasmine create a softer, powdery effect, lacking the wilder, sun-drenched exuberance of its predecessor. While still feminine and refined, this reformulation favors a more delicate and conventional floral accord over the untamed lushness of the original.

The most significant change, however, lies in the base. The original’s complex interplay of Tibetan musk, ambergris, sandalwood, and castoreum—elements that lent a deeply sensual, animalic warmth—was replaced by a more restrained foundation of cedarwood, oakmoss, vetiver, and amber. This shift resulted in a drier, woodier base, with less of the original’s rich, resinous depth and less of the balsamic, musky undertones that once gave Amazone its intriguing duality. While still elegant, the 1989 reformulation is more linear, cleaner, and arguably more wearable for modern tastes, though longtime admirers of the first iteration may find it lacking the bold complexity and unfolding dynamism that once set Amazone apart.

• Top notes: bergamot, geranium, cassie, hyacinth
• Middle notes: muguet, orris, rose, jasmine
• Base notes: cedarwood, oakmoss, vetiver, amber

With the 1990 relaunch of Amazone, Hermès introduced a redesigned bottle and updated packaging to reflect the fragrance's modernized formula. The original clear glass bottle, which bore the signature Hermès "H" in a frosted finish, was replaced with an entirely frosted glass surface, lending it a softer, more muted appearance. This change mirrored the shift in the fragrance itself—moving from the bold, multifaceted richness of the original to a more refined and contemporary interpretation. The new bottle also featured white serigraphy, a delicate contrast against the frosted glass, enhancing its airy and ethereal quality while maintaining a sense of understated luxury.

The outer packaging also underwent a significant transformation. The original maroon and taupe box, which exuded a classic, restrained elegance in line with Hermès’ heritage, was replaced with a more vibrant design. The new packaging featured a coral-colored background adorned with green leaves, a departure from the previous understated aesthetic. This change likely aimed to reflect the fragrance's evolution—shifting from the deep, intricate layers of the original to a fresher, more luminous composition. The coral hue added warmth and liveliness, while the green leaves hinted at the fragrance’s floral and botanical elements, reinforcing its refined yet nature-inspired character. Together, these updates signaled a new chapter for Amazone, adapting its visual identity to appeal to a more contemporary audience while still retaining its equestrian-inspired grace.