Cabochard by Gres c1956

Cabochard by Gres, launched in 1956 in Paris and arriving in the United States in 1958, carries with it an aura of strength and independence, encapsulated perfectly by its name. Derived from the French word cabochard, meaning "stubborn" or "headstrong," the name reflects the spirit of its creator, Madame Gres, who was known for her defiant creativity and unyielding determination in both her fashion and fragrance work. Pronounced ka-boh-shard, the word evokes an image of someone unafraid to challenge conventions, a woman who marches to the beat of her own drum, determined to carve her own path. The word carries a sense of quiet confidence—someone who is unshakeable in their beliefs and actions, regardless of external pressures or expectations. This essence of independence and individuality is woven throughout the fragrance itself, aligning with a time when women were increasingly embracing liberation, both in their roles in society and in their personal identities.

The fragrance debuted in the 1950s, a decade marked by post-war optimism, yet still tinged with the remnants of societal constraints. This period was characterized by elegance and refinement, but also by an increasing sense of freedom and exploration. Fashion was undergoing a shift from the rigid austerity of wartime to the more luxurious and extravagant silhouettes of the 1950s. Designers like Christian Dior popularized the "New Look," with its emphasis on femininity and exaggerated hourglass shapes. However, beneath this polished exterior, women were beginning to push boundaries, seeking out fragrances that expressed their evolving complexity. Cabochard, with its bold, leathery floral chypre composition, was a reflection of this change. It spoke to women who were strong-willed, unapologetically confident, and ready to embrace their own power.

In terms of scent, Cabochard fits perfectly within the broader context of 1950s perfume trends, which saw the rise of chypres, particularly those with leather or mossy bases. Its leathery floral chypre structure, with its dry, green opening of bergamot and lemon, leads into a rich floral heart of jasmine, geranium, and tuberose, all resting upon a warm, earthy base of ambergris, vetiver, and tonkin musk. The presence of galbanum adds an intense, almost bitter green note, while the dry spices and leather accents lend a sense of toughness. This combination of delicate florals with powerful, more animalic notes suggests a woman who embodies both grace and resilience. Cabochard was not entirely unique in the sense that it followed the prevailing chypre trend, but its bold use of leather and spicy, earthy elements made it stand apart from more traditional, soft floral perfumes of the time. It was a fragrance designed for a woman who was anything but conventional, someone unafraid to let her fragrance reflect the same strength and independence that defined her character.

For women in the late 1950s, Cabochard would have been a striking departure from the more common, demure perfumes of the era. While many fragrances at the time focused on lighter florals or soft, powdery notes, Cabochard was for those who were ready to embrace something deeper, more complex, and more assertive. The perfume mirrored the changing roles of women during the 1950s, a time when they were beginning to demand more autonomy, not only in their professional lives but also in their personal choices. It was a scent that resonated with women who were no longer content to be seen and not heard, women who were carving out a space for themselves that was unapologetically their own.

 

The Inspiration:

The inspiration behind Cabochard by Gres traces its roots to an unforgettable journey to India, where Madame Gres was struck by the beauty of a unique flower she encountered there. The flower in question, water hyacinth, offered an intriguing blend of floral sweetness and green freshness, a soft, tuberose-like scent with an almost aquatic edge. At the time, water hyacinth was rarely used in perfumery, making it all the more captivating for Madame Gres, who saw in its delicate fragrance the potential for something both ethereal and complex. This revelation sparked her vision of a perfume that would combine the allure of flowers with an element of freshness, something light yet deeply evocative.

Determined to bring this vision to life, Madame Gres enlisted the help of the renowned perfumer Guy Robert. Together, they embarked on a meticulous process that spanned three years, during which they experimented with multiple formulations to capture the essence of the scent she had imagined. The result was a fragrance that perfectly mirrored the memories of India that had stayed with Madame Gres. When she finally sniffed the final composition, she remarked that it evoked the warm, sweet scent of sandalwood, the soft hints of flowers, and the fresh sharpness of the sea breeze she would inhale during her early morning walks along the vast, empty beaches of India. The perfume embodied both the natural beauty and the tranquility she had felt during her travels.

Cabochard was born from this fusion of inspiration and craftsmanship, and its composition is as layered and multifaceted as the landscape that inspired it. The fragrance opens with a sharp yet fresh burst of bergamot and lemon, awakening the senses with citrus brightness. This is followed by a heart of jasmine, Bulgarian rose, and geranium, all underpinned by the powdery softness of iris and the rich, creamy floral depth of tuberose. The addition of galbanum injects an intense green bitterness, while the dry, oriental spices add warmth and complexity. The base of the fragrance is a chypre, earthy and mossy, with ambergris, vetiver, and tonkin musk creating a sensual and enveloping finish. The leathery undertones lend the scent an added layer of mystery, balancing the floral notes with an intriguing depth.

In the context of its time, Cabochard was a striking departure from the lighter, more delicate fragrances of the 1950s. Whereas many perfumes focused on soft florals and powdery notes, Cabochard embraced a more robust, dry profile, merging the fresh greenery of the water hyacinth with the earthy richness of chypre elements. The inclusion of leather and tobacco notes gave the perfume an edge that spoke to a growing desire for more assertive, bold scents that matched the changing social and cultural landscape. Women in the mid-20th century, particularly those seeking a fragrance that reflected their growing sense of independence, would have been drawn to Cabochard for its strong, yet elegant character, making it a perfect companion for the modern, confident woman of the era.

Chouda:

Cabochard by Gres enjoyed great success upon its release, its bold and leathery floral chypre composition resonating deeply with women seeking a fragrance that combined sophistication with a touch of the mysterious. Its release, however, marked a turning point for another of Madame Gres's perfume creations, Chouda, which was suspended shortly thereafter. The perfume, which had been developed alongside Cabochard, was ultimately never fully produced for the public. 

The production of Chouda was abruptly halted due to an unfortunate cultural oversight in its naming. While the perfume’s name, Chouda, was meant to evoke a romantic and exotic connection to India, it inadvertently became problematic because of its association with the Hindi slang term “bakachouda” or “bakchodi” (बकचोदी), which colloquially refers to frivolous or vulgar talk, often with an undertone relating to sex. This unintended connotation made the name unsuitable for a luxury fragrance, particularly in markets where the Hindi language or culture was familiar. The misstep highlighted the importance of thorough cultural sensitivity when naming products, especially when drawing inspiration from a different linguistic or cultural context. Despite the exquisite composition of Chouda, this naming controversy effectively sealed its fate, leaving the fragrance as a rare and intriguing footnote in the history of Gres perfumes.

Vogue, 1964:

"Gres, director of a couture house of world- renown, which carried her name but of which she was only a salaried ..We laughed about her first perfume, the one that had to be quickly removed from sale because she christened it "Chouda,"-a word which, it seems something very very far from decent in Hindu."

It is said that only five liters of Chouda were delivered, likely reserved for Madame Gres herself, who may have worn the perfume as a personal signature of sorts. The enigmatic fate of Chouda only adds to its allure, leaving it as an elusive fragment of Madame Gres's artistic expression.

In a 1959 article from Combat, the French magazine provided a glimpse into Madame Gres’s perfume world, highlighting the distinct nature of her offerings. The piece describes Cabochard as a "fashionable perfume" that was both musky and sensual, offering a blend of rose and jasmine with a fresh note of vetiver and the signature touch of chypre. The review praised its stridency, noting the powerful aldehydic top notes that gave Cabochard its distinctive edge. The perfume’s success was inevitable, with its bold personality setting it apart from other fragrances of the era.

On the other hand, Chouda was framed as something more unique and deeply personal to Madame Gres. The name itself, derived from the Indian flower-seller in Rabindranath Tagore's Amal, carried an exotic and romantic resonance. Madame Gres’s vision for Chouda was inspired by her travels to India, where the sights, sounds, and scents of the country influenced her creative process. The article recounts how, after returning to Paris, she was overwhelmed by a feeling of intense déjà vu one morning in her bedroom—this sensation triggered by the lingering scent of Chouda she had sprayed the night before. The perfume evoked memories of India, and in that moment, Madame Gres realized that the fragrance was a representation of the exalted flowers of the Indian landscape, still vibrant with the intensity of the jungle.

The composition of Chouda was described as an unforgettable floral masterpiece, blending the rich, sweet aroma of honeysuckle with sharp, green notes of mock orange and the lush, creamy scent of gardenia petals. These were joined by a mysterious synthetic element, providing an enduring freshness that set the fragrance apart from any other flower-based perfume of the time. Chouda was not just a typical floral scent but a tribute to the living, blooming nature of the Indian garden—a fragrance that would remain vivid and unaltered even after long hours of wear. The article painted an image of the woman who would wear Chouda: a tall, radiant, blonde girl, lit by an intimate ardor, her presence as fresh and blooming as the flowers she wore. Yet, despite the powerful allure of Chouda, the article acknowledges that many women of the time might shy away from floral perfumes. However, it encourages them to reconsider, promising that Chouda would bathe its wearer in youth, offering them an unforgettable experience of freshness and vitality.

In the context of the time, Chouda seemed like an avant-garde creation, unique in its deep connection to nature, its synthetic freshness, and its bold, unyielding longevity. While Cabochard hit the mark with its musky, leathery sophistication, Chouda would have appealed to those seeking a more abstract, exotic interpretation of florals—an experience that evoked a sense of place, of memory, and of the very essence of life in bloom. Its tragic and premature discontinuation only adds to the sense of mystery surrounding the perfume, leaving a lingering question of what Chouda might have become in the world of fragrance had it been allowed to fully bloom.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does Cabochard smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a dry, fresh top of bergamot and lemon, followed by a floral heart of jasmine, geranium, tuberose, powdery iris and Bulgarian rose, accented with dry oriental spices and the intense greenery of galbanum, resting on a warm, mossy chypre base with a touch of ambergris, vetiver and tonkin musk. A dry, green herbal floral scent based on classic rose and jasmine with spicy overtones with accents of citrus, tobacco and leather. 

• Top notes:  aldehydes, tarragon, water hyacinth, fruity notes, asafoetida, Italian bergamot, clary sage, Italian lemon and spice notes
• Middle notes: carnation, nutmeg, honeysuckle, clove, tuberose, orris, geranium, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, galbanum and ylang ylang
• Base notes: juniper, civet, castoreum, resins, Tonkin musk, tobacco, patchouli, vetiver, coconut, Moroccan oakmoss, sandalwood, leather, ambergris

To produce one ounce of Cabochard parfum, it requires 6,400 jasmine flowers, 340 roses, and 45 tuberose blossoms, and that's just the beginning!

Combat, 1963:

"Cabochard - Belongs to the chypres family, but its very personal character is due to original associations of floral essences, oak moss and an amber base. Its departure is fresh and flowery, thanks to the amount given by clary sage and bergamot, by jasmine and Provencal carnation. The heart of the perfume is based on essences of oak moss, sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli which affirm its sensual and attractive side."

Scent Profile:

Cabochard opens with a dazzling and multifaceted introduction, where aldehydes create an airy, effervescent shimmer that feels crisp and clean. The immediate brightness of Italian bergamot and lemon brings a sharp, citrusy zing, their tangy freshness reminiscent of sunlight spilling over a dew-kissed orchard. 

The herbal sharpness of clary sage and tarragon adds a green, almost medicinal quality, balancing the citrus with an aromatic, earthy depth. Tarragon’s slight licorice-like nuance mingles with clary sage's resinous herbaceousness, evoking a sense of wild meadows. Fruity undertones lend a subtle sweetness, while the water hyacinth introduces a soft, aquatic freshness—a gentle whisper of green florals with a hint of dew-laden petals. Asafoetida provides an unusual, spicy-animalic edge, grounding the composition with a sense of exotic unpredictability. This intricate top accord is rounded by spice notes that tingle the senses, hinting at the complexity to come. 

As the fragrance settles, the heart blooms with an opulent and textured bouquet. Jasmine and Bulgarian rose reign at the center, their rich, velvety florals exuding a heady, sensual warmth. Jasmine’s narcotic intensity is softened by the sweetness of the rose, while ylang-ylang adds a creamy, slightly tropical richness, like golden sunlight on soft petals. 

The spicy clove and nutmeg provide an exotic warmth, their piquant facets enhancing the florals’ depth. Tuberose unfurls with its buttery, intoxicating lushness, while carnation’s peppery sharpness contrasts beautifully, adding a crisp, spiced edge. Honeysuckle introduces a delicate sweetness, while galbanum provides a resinous greenery, intense and vivid, as if capturing the raw essence of crushed stems and leaves. The powdery softness of orris root weaves through the florals like a silken thread, adding a sophisticated elegance, while geranium’s sharp, citrusy-floral profile keeps the heart lively and vibrant.

The base reveals Cabochard’s true personality, a sultry and mysterious blend of leather, resins, and mossy woods. Moroccan oakmoss anchors the fragrance with its earthy, slightly damp texture, conjuring images of ancient forests and sun-dappled groves. Vetiver adds an herbal, smoky grassiness, while patchouli brings a deep, earthy sweetness, reminiscent of dried leaves and rich soil. 

Sandalwood provides a creamy, woody smoothness, blending seamlessly with the warm, golden glow of ambergris. The animalic allure of civet and castoreum introduces a primal, musky sensuality, while Tonkin musk adds a velvety softness that feels almost tactile. Tobacco contributes a smoky richness, its dry, aromatic quality weaving through the composition like a wisp of fragrant smoke. Coconut offers a subtle, unexpected creaminess, tempering the heavier notes and adding a faint tropical whisper. 

Finally, the leather accord dominates the dry down, rich and slightly smoky, evoking the scent of worn, sun-warmed leather. Together, these elements create a deeply layered, dry, green, and herbal floral chypre, with every note contributing to an evocative and sophisticated olfactory experience that lingers with an elegant, almost haunting presence.

 

Bottle:

Madame Grès, renowned for her precision and elegance in haute couture, carried her minimalist ethos into the packaging of her perfumes. To reduce production costs for her debut fragrances, Cabochard and Chouda, she selected a simple yet effective apothecary-style bottle. The design was both practical and understated, with clean, cylindrical lines and a touch of softness brought by the tied ribbon—a grey bow for Cabochard, and a green bow for Chouda. These small details, while subtle, echoed Madame Grès’ refined sense of style and added a hint of charm to the otherwise utilitarian design.

The bottle’s frosted glass stopper added an element of sophistication. Molded with a prominent "G" for Grès, the disk-shaped stopper subtly showcased the brand identity while reinforcing its modern and minimalist aesthetic. Though often mistaken for a Lalique creation due to its elegant simplicity, the bottle was actually crafted by Pochet et du Courval, a prestigious French glassmaker that has been creating perfume flacons for Grès since the 1950s. Their expertise ensured that even a cost-conscious design maintained an aura of refinement and quality.

The fragrances were offered in a wide array of formats, catering to a diverse clientele with various needs. For those who treasured pure perfume, the collection included purse flacons as well as bottles of 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, 1 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz parfum. The versatility extended to spray options, with a spray parfum for convenience. Those seeking lighter versions could opt for eau de toilette, available in sizes ranging from 2 oz and 4 oz bottles to the more indulgent 8 oz and 16 oz options. For portability, atomizers were offered in 2 oz non-refillable and 3 oz refillable versions.

Complementing the fragrance line were luxury bath and body products. The bath oil, available in 1/2 oz and 1 oz bottles, offered a decadent way to envelop oneself in the scent, while the talc and soap provided a subtle layering effect for a lasting impression. Each item in the collection was thoughtfully designed to enhance the overall sensory experience of Grès’ perfumes, maintaining the brand's dedication to elegance and practicality.

Flankers:

Cabochard was later flanked by two special edition fragrances, Air de Cabochard, and Ambre de Cabochard.

Air de Cabochard by Gres is a chypre fragrance for women and was launched in 2000, it was created by Max Gavarry and Domitille Michalon. The fragrance features floral notes, spices, leather and oak moss.

Ambre de Cabochard by Gres is an Oriental fragrance for women, it was launched in 2006 and created by Jean-Claude Delville and Jean-Pierre Bethouart.

• Top notes are ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, mandarin orange, black currant and blueberry
• Middle notes are tuberose, lily-of-the-valley and cyclamen 
• Base notes are musk, patchouli, amber, tonka bean, vanilla and woodsy notes

Chouda:

Chouda is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: galbanum, water hyacinth, aldehyde, tuberose, honeysuckle
• Middle notes: gardenia, honey, narcissus, lily of the valley, hay, broom, cinnamon
• Base notes: amber, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka, benzoin, labdanum

As I experience Chouda, the top notes introduce themselves in a vivid, verdant burst. The first impression is the sharp, green intensity of galbanum, a resinous, herbal aroma that is both invigorating and grounding, like the scent of freshly crushed leaves on a dewy morning. This is quickly softened by the aquatic, airy sweetness of water hyacinth, which evokes the image of delicate blossoms floating serenely on a quiet pond. An effervescent whisper of aldehydes lends a sparkling clarity, like sunlight breaking through mist. Then, the lush, creamy richness of tuberose unfurls, adding an opulent, almost narcotic floral dimension. Honeysuckle laces the opening with a sweet, nectar-like charm, weaving together an intoxicating interplay of fresh and floral.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart notes reveal a lush and opulent floral garden. The creamy, voluptuous aroma of gardenia takes center stage, exuding a heady sweetness that feels warm and exotic. A drizzle of honey adds a golden, syrupy touch, blending seamlessly with the floral tapestry. The narcotic, slightly animalic scent of narcissus emerges, lending an earthy depth, while lily of the valley brings a delicate, powdery freshness, reminiscent of white blossoms kissed by spring rain. A subtle dryness creeps in with hay, conjuring images of warm, sunlit fields. The wild, floral sharpness of broom introduces a herbal nuance, while a warm, spicy whisper of cinnamon punctuates the composition, adding an unexpected hint of exotic intrigue.

The base notes anchor the fragrance with a sumptuous and sensual warmth. Amber provides a resinous, golden glow, like the lingering warmth of the sun on skin. Oakmoss adds a deep, earthy greenness, evoking the cool shadows of a forest floor. The soft, animalic allure of musk envelops the senses, blending harmoniously with the creamy, woody richness of sandalwood. A touch of vanilla adds a sweet, comforting smoothness, while tonka bean brings its distinctive powdery warmth with hints of almond and tobacco. The resinous depth of benzoin adds a soft, balsamic sweetness, while labdanum contributes a leathery, amber-like richness, rounding out the composition with a dark, smoky sensuality. Together, these base notes create an enduring, velvety foundation that lingers like a whisper of distant memories.

Chouda unfolds like a journey through a lush, dreamlike landscape—its green, floral, and resinous notes blend seamlessly to create a fragrance that feels timeless and profoundly evocative.

 

Bottles:

Chouda was presented in a bottle identical to the one used for Cabochard—a simple, apothecary-style design crafted by Pochet et du Courval. The glass flacon, with its clean and understated silhouette, reflected Madame Grès' preference for timeless elegance over unnecessary embellishment. However, Chouda distinguished itself with a striking green velvet ribbon tied around the neck, a nod to the lush, floral chypre fragrance housed within. This contrast from Cabochard’s grey ribbon signaled Chouda's unique identity, even as it shared its understated packaging.

When the decision was made to pull Chouda from production, Madame Grès ensured its legacy lived on in small, exclusive quantities. Of the approximately five liters remaining, a significant portion was kept by Madame Grès herself—perhaps as a personal treasure or a testament to her artistic vision. The rest was decanted into mini bottles, becoming a rare and fleeting offering for the public. These miniatures were included in luxury fragrance sets, debuting in 1960, that showcased a curated selection of iconic perfumes. Alongside Chouda, the set featured Magie by Lancôme, Baghari by Robert Piguet, Ariane by Jacques Heim, and Grilou by Jacques Griffe. The collection offered a glimpse into the artistry of haute parfumerie, with Chouda standing out as the enigmatic and ephemeral jewel of the set.

These miniature bottles became collector's treasures, with the set continuing to be sold until 1962. Today, the miniatures of Chouda are among the rarest perfume finds, as few examples have survived the decades. Of the entire collection, both Chouda and Grilou are exceptionally elusive, their scarcity elevating them to near-mythical status among vintage fragrance enthusiasts. For many, these tiny glass flacons represent the only tangible connection to the fleeting beauty of Chouda, a perfume that was destined to shine briefly but brilliantly.