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Vintage Perfumes For Sale

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Cabochard by Gres c1958

Cabochard was launched in 1958. The name Cabochard was chosen by Madame Gres herself (in French Cabochard means 'stubborn' or 'headstrong') to reflect her free spirit and will. Following the current trends at the time for chypres, she launched two of her own: leathery chypre Cabochard and the floral chypre Chouda.



The inspiration for her perfume was sparked by a trip to India where she discovered a flower which possessed a soft tuberose like scent, but had a fresh, green scent. Water hyacinth, rarely used in perfumes at the time, was the beautiful light floral she had spoken of.  She consulted the genius perfumer Guy Robert and described her vision of a beautiful perfume.

 It took several trials before Madame Gres could recognize her light and floral perfume. When she sniffed the final formula, she mentioned that it reminded her of the warm, sweet sandalwood, hints of flowers and the fresh sharpness of the sea breeze in the morning that she would smell when she walked the long and empty beaches in India.

A couple of months after it was created the production of Chouda was suspended. The delivered 5 liters of the perfume were most probably worn by Madame Gres herself.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a dry, fresh top, followed by a dry floral heart, resting on a warm, mossy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, tarragon, water hyacinth, fruity notes, asafoetida, bergamot, sage, lemon and spice notes
  • Middle notes: orris root, geranium, jasmine, rose, galbanum and ylang ylang
  • Base notes: castoreum, musk, tobacco, patchouli, vetiver, coconut, oakmoss, sandalwood, leather, ambergris

Bottle:


To minimize the costs of production for her two initial perfumes, Madame Gres chose a simple bottle style. It was a plain, apothecary style bottle tied with a grey bow for Cabochard, and tied with a green bow for Chouda. The stopper is disk shaped, made of frosted glass and molded with a large G for Gres. Please note that this is not a Lalique bottle but was made Pochet et du Courval who has made all of Gres' perfume flacons since the 1950s.


Flankers:


Cabochard was later flanked by two special edition fragrances, Air de Cabochard, and Ambre de Cabochard.

Air de Cabochard by Gres is a chypre fragrance for women and was launched in 2000, it was created by Max Gavarry and Domitille Michalon. The fragrance features floral notes, spices, leather and oak moss.

Ambre de Cabochard by Gres is an Oriental fragrance for women, it was launched in 2006 and created by Jean-Claude Delville and Jean-Pierre Bethouart.

  • Top notes are ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, mandarin orange, black currant and blueberry
  • Middle notes are tuberose, lily-of-the-valley and cyclamen 
  • Base notes are musk, patchouli, amber, tonka bean, vanilla and woodsy notes


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