Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro c1923

Le Chevalier de la Nuit (Knight of the Night) was launched in France in 1923 by Parfums Ciro. It was introduced to America in 1924 according to some newspaper articles of the day. Parfums Ciro was founded in 1921 in New York, at first obtaining all its fragrances from Gabilla in Paris, already bottled. These included 'Doux Jasmin', 'Chevalier de la Nuit' and 'Maskee', all issued in 1923.

"Le Chevalier de la Nuit" was an enchanting fragrance, steeped in the mystique of its name. It's fascinating how it traveled from France to America, carrying with it the essence of Parisian allure. Parfums Ciro's partnership with Gabilla in Paris adds another layer of intrigue to its story, hinting at a collaboration that bridged continents to bring luxury scents to eager consumers. The names of the fragrances themselves, "Doux Jasmin," "Chevalier de la Nuit," and "Maskee," evoke a sense of romance and sophistication, capturing the imagination of those who seek olfactory experiences beyond the ordinary. It's a reminder of how perfume can be not just a scent, but a journey through time and space, encapsulating the spirit of an era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Though there are no published notes on this composition, I did have some old empty bottles years ago, and I distinctly remember them smelling like jasmine, gardenia and tuberose.

In old advertisements, the perfume was described as "an exotic, fascinating fragrance whose romantic overtones are beautifully expressed by its name, a lasting perfume, and particularly adaptable to furs. It has a singular sweetness, not found in most heavy odors, and while it is a mysterious, intriguing and essentially a formal perfume, it may be worn at any time of day."

• Top notes: bergamot, orange blossom
• Middle notes: tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, rose
• Base notes: musk, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss, tonka, benzoin

My recollection aligns closely with the old advertisements and the romantic descriptions of the fragrance. With top notes of bergamot and orange blossom, "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" opened with a bright, citrusy freshness that gradually transitioned into a lush floral heart dominated by tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, and rose. These floral notes imparted a rich, intoxicating aroma, evoking images of blooming gardens and sultry evenings.

The base notes I mentioned, including musk, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss, tonka, and benzoin, suggest a warm and sensual dry down. Musk and ambergris provided a sensual, animalic quality, while sandalwood and vanilla added creamy sweetness. The oakmoss and benzoin contributed to a velvety richness, with tonka adding a hint of almond-like sweetness.

Overall, "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" is a complex and sophisticated fragrance, perfectly suited for evening wear but versatile enough for any time of day. Its blend of floral, citrus, and oriental notes would have created an aura of mystery and allure, leaving a lasting impression on those who encountered it.

Hearst's, 1928:

"But be she queen or maid, rich or poor, she wants with all her heart to be remembered. Chevalier de la Nuit. the "Knight of the Night", is a scent of singular individuality, conceived and sealed by Ciro, in Paris. In its fragrance lurks a loveliness quite new. It is haunting, yet elusive — sensuous, yet exquisite."

Hearst's, 1928:

"Ciro's Parfum — Chevalier de la Nuit, the "Knight of the Night". . . a strange, delicate scent."

Bottles:

A 1928 ad:

"Chevalier de la Nuit from Ciro is a perfume for the sophisticate. Smartly bottled and cased $10. And the toilet water is $8.50."

Garden & Home Builder, 1928:

"Ciro offers in this attractive black bottle his famous 'Chevalier de la Nuit

American Druggist - Volumes 79-80, 1929:

"Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit One of the most surprising new products of recent months has been Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit. Offered first about the Christmas season in department and a few drug stores at $4.50 it showed such sales that manufacturers are offering it generally to the trade. The bottle - a romantic affair, - stands nearly a foot in height and is fashioned in France of hand-burnished glass. The stopper is a replica of a plumed helmet . The bottle duplicates the body armor of a knight of the crusades."

The bottle design adds another layer of charm to the allure of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit." Shaped like a suit of armor with a heart at its center, adorned with a visored, beplumed helmet stopper, it embodies the romantic and chivalrous spirit evoked by its name. The attention to detail, from the choice of materials to the gilded highlights, reflects the elegance and luxury associated with the fragrance.

The versatility of the bottle, available in various styles including black opaque glass, clear and frosted glass, and clear and frosted glass with gilded highlights, ensured that there was an option to suit every taste and occasion. The design, patented by Guy T. Gibson in 1925, showcases the creativity and craftsmanship of the era, making it not only a vessel for perfume but also a work of art worthy of display.

With its unique and ornate design, the bottle of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" would indeed have made a memorable and cherished Christmas gift, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the holiday season.

The bottles were designed by Julien Viard and may have been made by Depinoix. Ciro's founder, Guy T. Gibson (JS Wiedhopf) filed a design patent for the bottle and was granted patent number 68,779 on November 17, 1925. It's fascinating to learn more about the collaboration between Julien Viard, Depinoix, and Guy T. Gibson in bringing the exquisite bottle design of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" to life. The granting of the design patent further underscores the uniqueness and innovative nature of the bottle's design, ensuring its place in perfume history as an iconic and enduring symbol of elegance and craftsmanship.

The parfum bottles, in clear and frosted glass, came in various sizes:

• 7 1/2" tall
• 5 3/8" tall
• 4 3/4" tall
• 4 " tall
• 3 1/4" tall
• 2 3/8" tall

The black frosted glass bottle came in two sizes:

• 4 1/2" tall
• 4 3/4" tall

An Eau de Toilette bottle, in clear and frosted glass, was slightly different from the parfum flacon, and it had a shield shaped label, this bottle stood around 7 1/4" tall. The variation in design between the Eau de Toilette bottle and the parfum flacon adds an interesting dimension to the presentation of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit." The shield-shaped label on the Eau de Toilette bottle likely contributed to its distinctiveness, providing a visual differentiation from the parfum flacon while maintaining a cohesive theme.

Standing around 7.25" tall, the Eau de Toilette bottle would have exuded a sense of presence and elegance, making it a striking addition to any vanity or dressing table. The clear and frosted glass combination would have added a touch of sophistication, allowing glimpses of the fragrance within while retaining an air of mystery.

This variation in bottle design speaks to the attention to detail and commitment to quality associated with "Le Chevalier de la Nuit," ensuring that each presentation of the fragrance was a testament to the luxury and allure it represented.

I wanted to make mention that in 1934, Edward G. Westlake, working on behalf of Marshall Field, "invented" this exact same bottle as seen in this patent drawing. This bottle was made in Czechoslovakia and sold by Marshall Field using their Aristo subsidiary, also known as McCoy, Jones and Westlake. These Czech copies of the bottle are not marked "France" on the base.

It's intriguing to see the cross-cultural influence and adaptations within the perfume industry during that era. Edward G. Westlake's recreation of the bottle design, patented in 1934, suggests a recognition of the appeal and uniqueness of the original design of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit."

The fact that these bottles were made in Czechoslovakia and sold by Marshall Field under their Aristo subsidiary, also known as McCoy, Jones, and Westlake, highlights the international nature of the fragrance industry and the collaboration between different companies and artisans to bring these creations to life.

The absence of the "France" mark on the base of these Czech copies indicates a departure from the original source but underscores the enduring popularity and desirability of the design. It's a testament to the enduring legacy of "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" and its influence on perfume bottle design during that time.

Starting in 1931, a small cylindrical, clear glass bottle was also used, it had a small boule stopper made of clear glass and a tiny rectangular label. This bottle held 1 oz of parfum, stood 9cm tall, and was also used for other Ciro perfumes. The introduction of the small cylindrical clear glass bottle with a boule stopper and a tiny rectangular label in 1931 provides another fascinating glimpse into the packaging evolution of Ciro perfumes, including "Le Chevalier de la Nuit."

This compact and minimalist design, standing at 9cm tall and holding 1 oz of parfum, would have offered a more streamlined and contemporary alternative to the elaborate armor-shaped flacons. Its simplicity likely appealed to those who preferred a more understated presentation while still indulging in the luxurious fragrance within.

The versatility of this bottle, also used for other Ciro perfumes, speaks to its practicality and efficiency in production and distribution. Its adaptability across various fragrances underscores the brand's commitment to quality and consistency in presentation.

Overall, this small cylindrical bottle adds another dimension to the diverse range of packaging options available for "Le Chevalier de la Nuit" and other Ciro perfumes, catering to a broader spectrum of consumer preferences and tastes.

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:

"CIRO'S exquisite perfume odors, Doux Jasmin, Chevalier de la Nuit, Gardenia Sauvage, as well as an eau de cologne, have been developed in toilet waters known as "Eau de Ciro". The cone shaped bottle decorated with a silver top and label forms an attractive addition to bath shelf and dressing table."

In 1938, these Eau de Ciro toilet waters were being presented in eight sided glass bottles with screw caps and a long rectangular label down the front of the bottle. Available in Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage and Doux Jasmin. The Eau de Ciro was also available in a matching atomizer bottle.

The expansion of Ciro's fragrance offerings to include Eau de Ciro toilet waters in addition to their exquisite perfumes adds another dimension to the brand's olfactory repertoire. The transition from the cone-shaped bottle with a silver top and label to the eight-sided glass bottles with screw caps and long rectangular labels in 1938 reflects an evolution in packaging design while maintaining an emphasis on elegance and sophistication.

The availability of these Eau de Ciro toilet waters in various scents, including Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage, and Doux Jasmin, offers consumers a diverse range of options to suit different preferences and occasions. The matching atomizer bottle further enhances the luxurious experience of using these fragrances, adding a touch of glamour to the application process.

The attention to detail in the packaging, from the design of the bottles to the labeling, underscores Ciro's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that each product is not only a sensorial delight but also a visual delight, adding a touch of refinement to any bath shelf or dressing table.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It's exportation to the USA appears to have been halted in 1936 and was unavailable during World War II, it was brought back as late as 1948, as it was advertised as "a recent arrival from Paris" and "Ciro's dashing perfume Chevalier de la Nuit, just returned in its elegant black bottle to make Christmas and linger with her all year long" according to two newspaper articles. I can not find any other newspaper reference to it after 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.

Cue, 1948:

"The return of one of France's favorite perfumes, Chevalier de la Nuit, is heralded for the Christmas season. This is, of course, the famous Ciro scent whose bottle is a suit of armor and its stopper a visor with a plumed helmet. This will be available for your Christmas favorite in one ounce bottles, only at $15."

The perfume was still being sold in 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.

The discontinuation and subsequent re-introduction of "Chevalier de la Nuit" in the USA, particularly during the period surrounding World War II, reflect the challenges and disruptions faced by the perfume industry during times of global conflict. The cessation of its availability during the war years followed by its return in 1948 highlights the resilience of the brand and its enduring appeal to consumers.

The nostalgic tone of the advertisements from 1948, describing "Chevalier de la Nuit" as a beloved favorite returning just in time for Christmas, evokes a sense of anticipation and excitement among perfume enthusiasts. The iconic imagery of the bottle, reminiscent of a suit of armor with a plumed helmet stopper, would have stirred memories and associations for those familiar with the fragrance, adding to its allure as a timeless classic.

While it's unfortunate that there are limited newspaper references to "Chevalier de la Nuit" after 1950, its continued availability until that time speaks to its enduring popularity and appeal. Ciro's decision to cease perfume production in 1961 marked the end of an era for the brand, but "Chevalier de la Nuit" remains a cherished memory for those who were fortunate enough to experience its enchanting aroma.

In 2018, I was notified that Parfums Ciro had been resurrected and their website www.ciroparfums.com now offers fragrances based on their originals. One such perfume is the once popular Chevalier de la Nuit, recreated by Alexander Streeck. 

It's wonderful to hear that the legacy of Parfums Ciro lives on through the resurrection of their fragrances, including the iconic "Chevalier de la Nuit." The recreation of this once-popular perfume by Alexander Streeck allows new generations to experience the timeless allure and enchanting aroma of this classic fragrance.

With advancements in technology and fragrance formulation techniques, modern interpretations of classic perfumes can capture the essence of the originals while also offering contemporary nuances and enhancements. It's a testament to the enduring appeal of "Chevalier de la Nuit" that it continues to inspire perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike, even decades after its initial creation.

For those who have fond memories of the original "Chevalier de la Nuit" or are intrigued by its romantic history, the opportunity to explore its reincarnation through Parfums Ciro's offerings provides a delightful journey into the past, infused with a touch of modern elegance.

From the website:

"The night breaks in, everything plunges into its deep darkness. Sounds velvety and inky blue. And thus creates the ideal stage for those who have committed to it. They swarm, in search of adventure or diversion, after experience and pleasure. Shimmering their silhouettes stand out from the darkness as they stroll seemingly aimlessly through the streets. Knights of the big city and conquerors - they own them, the night with its endless possibilities. 

CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT is dedicated to those who are guided by their passion. 

The fire kindles CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT with racy clove, which makes up the distinctive heart of the fragrance. Spicy, it shows as well as a spirited sharpness, which is inspired by eucalyptus freshness. Their powdery facets are emphasized by iris and dark patchouli and finely smoky finished by vetiver. Hesperia fruits provide a dynamic, citrusy echo, while exquisite sandalwood adds balsamic, along with delicious bourbon vanilla, sweetly savoring the perfume."

So what does it smell like?

• Top notes: Calabrian citrus fruits, bitter orange, Indonesian patchouli
• Middle notes: jasmine, iris, Hawaiian vetiver, Malagasy clove
• Base notes: white musk, Australian eucalyptus, Indian sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla

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The modern interpretation of "Chevalier de la Nuit" crafted by Alexander Streeck sounds like a captivating blend of citrus, florals, spices, and woods, evoking an air of mystery and sophistication.

• The top notes of Calabrian citrus fruits and bitter orange likely provide a bright and refreshing opening, infusing the fragrance with a burst of citrusy freshness. The Indonesian patchouli adds a touch of earthiness and depth, grounding the composition from the very beginning.

• As the fragrance develops, the heart notes of jasmine, iris, Hawaiian vetiver, and Malagasy clove come into play, creating a rich and complex floral-spicy accord. Jasmine and iris contribute a sensual and elegant floral bouquet, while vetiver and clove add a spicy, aromatic warmth, adding depth and intrigue to the fragrance.

• In the base, the white musk, Australian eucalyptus, Indian sandalwood, and Bourbon vanilla create a smooth and creamy foundation. White musk adds a soft and powdery quality, while eucalyptus brings a fresh and invigorating twist. Sandalwood and vanilla provide a warm and comforting sweetness, enveloping the wearer in a sensual and alluring aura.

Overall, "Chevalier de la Nuit" appears to be a sophisticated and modern fragrance that pays homage to its classic roots while offering a contemporary twist. With its complex and well-balanced composition, it promises to be a captivating olfactory journey reminiscent of romantic nights and timeless elegance.