Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro c1923

Le Chevalier de la Nuit (Knight of the Night) was launched in France in 1923 by Parfums Ciro. It was introduced to America in 1924 according to some newspaper articles of the day. Parfums Ciro was founded in 1921 in New York, at first obtaining all its fragrances from Gabilla in Paris, already bottled. These included 'Doux Jasmin', 'Chevalier de la Nuit' and 'Maskee', all issued in 1923.




Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Though there are no published notes on this composition, I did have some old empty bottles years ago, and I distinctly remember them smelling like jasmine, gardenia and tuberose.

In old advertisements, the perfume was described as "an exotic, fascinating fragrance whose romantic overtones are beautifully expressed by its name, a lasting perfume, and particularly adaptable to furs. It has a singular sweetness, not found in most heavy odors, and while it is a mysterious, intriguing and essentially a formal perfume, it may be worn at any time of day."
  • Top notes: bergamot, orange blossom
  • Middle notes: tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: musk, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, oakmoss, tonka, benzoin

Hearst's, 1928:
"But be she queen or maid, rich or poor, she wants with all her heart to be remembered. Chevalier de la Nuit. the "Knight of the Night", is a scent of singular individuality, conceived and sealed by Ciro, in Paris. In its fragrance lurks a loveliness quite new. It is haunting, yet elusive — sensuous, yet exquisite."

Hearst's, 1928:
"Ciro's Parfum — Chevalier de la Nuit, the "Knight of the Night". . . a strange, delicate scent."

Bottles:


A 1928 ad:
"Chevalier de la Nuit from Ciro is a perfume for the sophisticate. Smartly bottled and cased $10. And the toilet water is $8.50."

Garden & Home Builder, 1928:
"Ciro offers in this attractive black bottle his famous 'Chevalier de la Nuit

American Druggist - Volumes 79-80, 1929:
"Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit One of the most surprising new products of recent months has been Ciro's Chevalier de la Nuit. Offered first about the Christmas season in department and a few drug stores at $4.50 it showed such sales that manufacturers are offering it generally to the trade. The bottle - a romantic affair, - stands nearly a foot in height and is fashioned in France of hand-burnished glass. The stopper is a replica of a plumed helmet . The bottle duplicates the body armor of a knight of the crusades."



The bottle carries out the cavalier theme, in the shape of a suit of armor, a heart in its center, with its stopper a visored, beplumed helmet. It's unusual bottle made it particularly appropriate for Christmas gift giving. The bottles came in black opaque glass, clear and frosted glass and also clear and frosted glass with gilded highlights. Designed by Guy T.Gibson, the bottle was patented on Nov. 17, 1925.









The bottles were designed by Julien Viard and may have been made by Depinoix. Ciro's founder, Guy T. Gibson (JS Wiedhopf) filed a design patent for the bottle and was granted patent number 68,779 on November 17, 1925.


The parfum bottles, in clear and frosted glass, came in various sizes:
  • 7 1/2" tall
  • 5 3/8" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall
  • 4 " tall
  • 3 1/4" tall
  • 2 3/8" tall

The black frosted glass bottle came in two sizes:
  • 4 1/2" tall
  • 4 3/4" tall





An Eau de Toilette bottle, in clear and frosted glass, was slightly different from the parfum flacon, and it had a shield shaped label, this bottle stood around 7 1/4" tall.

I wanted to make mention that in 1934, Edward G. Westlake, working on behalf of Marshall Field, "invented" this exact same bottle as seen in this patent drawing. This bottle was made in Czechoslovakia and sold by Marshall Field using their Aristo subsidiary, also known as McCoy, Jones and Westlake. These Czech copies of the bottle are not marked "France" on the base.





Starting in 1931, a small cylindrical, clear glass bottle was also used, it had a small boule stopper made of clear glass and a tiny rectangular label. This bottle held 1 oz of parfum, stood 9cm tall, and was also used for other Ciro perfumes.


Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"CIRO'S exquisite perfume odors, Doux Jasmin, Chevalier de la Nuit, Gardenia Sauvage, as well as an eau de cologne, have been developed in toilet waters known as "Eau de Ciro". The cone shaped bottle decorated with a silver top and label forms an attractive addition to bath shelf and dressing table."

In 1938, these Eau de Ciro toilet waters were being presented in eight sided glass bottles with screw caps and a long rectangular label down the front of the bottle. Available in Surrender, Danger, Reflexions, Gardenia Sauvage and Doux Jasmin. The Eau de Ciro was also available in a matching atomizer bottle.

Fate of the Fragrance:


It's exportation to the USA appears to have been halted in 1936 and was unavailable during World War II, it was brought back as late as 1948, as it was advertised as "a recent arrival from Paris" and "Ciro's dashing perfume Chevalier de la Nuit, just returned in its elegant black bottle to make Christmas and linger with her all year long" according to two newspaper articles. I can not find any other newspaper reference to it after 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.

Cue, 1948:
"The return of one of France's favorite perfumes, Chevalier de la Nuit, is heralded for the Christmas season. This is, of course, the famous Ciro scent whose bottle is a suit of armor and its stopper a visor with a plumed helmet. This will be available for your Christmas favorite in one ounce bottles, only at $15."

The perfume was still being sold in 1950. Ciro stopped making perfumes in 1961.



In 2018, I was notified that Parfums Ciro had been resurrected and their website www.ciroparfums.com now offers fragrances based on their originals. One such perfume is the once popular Chevalier de la Nuit, recreated by Alexander Streeck.
From the website:

"The night breaks in, everything plunges into its deep darkness. Sounds velvety and inky blue. And thus creates the ideal stage for those who have committed to it. They swarm, in search of adventure or diversion, after experience and pleasure. Shimmering their silhouettes stand out from the darkness as they stroll seemingly aimlessly through the streets. Knights of the big city and conquerors - they own them, the night with its endless possibilities. 
CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT is dedicated to those who are guided by their passion. 
The fire kindles CHEVALIER DE LA NUIT with racy clove, which makes up the distinctive heart of the fragrance. Spicy, it shows as well as a spirited sharpness, which is inspired by eucalyptus freshness. Their powdery facets are emphasized by iris and dark patchouli and finely smoky finished by vetiver. Hesperia fruits provide a dynamic, citrusy echo, while exquisite sandalwood adds balsamic, along with delicious bourbon vanilla, sweetly savoring the perfume."

So what does it smell like?
  • Top notes: Calabrian citrus fruits, bitter orange, Indonesian patchouli
  • Middle notes: jasmine, iris, Hawaiian vetiver, Malagasy clove
  • Base notes: white musk, Australian eucalyptus, Indian sandalwood, Bourbon vanilla
.


No comments:

Post a Comment

All comments will be subject to approval by a moderator. Comments may fail to be approved if the moderator deems that they:
--contain unsolicited advertisements ("spam")
--are unrelated to the subject matter of the post or of subsequent approved comments
--contain personal attacks or abusive/gratuitously offensive language

Welcome!

This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

Please understand that this website is not affiliated with any of the perfume companies written about here, it is only a source of reference. I consider it a repository of vital information for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. Updates to posts are conducted whenever I find new information to add or to correct any errors.

One of the goals of this website is to show the present owners of the various perfumes and cologne brands that are featured here how much we miss the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances!

Please leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or what occasion, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table, did you like the bottle design), who knows, perhaps someone from the company brand might see it.

Also, if you have any information not seen here, please comment and share with all of us.

Featured Post

Faking Perfume Bottles to Increase Their Value

The issue of adding "after market" accents to rather plain perfume bottles to increase their value is not new to the world o...