Friday, January 17, 2014

Julien Viard

In this guide I have listed the various antique perfume bottles that were designed by Julien Viard.

A brief history:

Around 1918, sculptor Clovis Viard and his son Julien Viard, opened a major workshop specializing "cold work" in glass creations at 25 rue Chevalier-Desire, Montreuil (Seine).  Previously, Clovis Viard worked for the Barbedienne foundry and was awarded a gold medal in 1900.

His son, Julien-Henri, was also a sculptor and exhibited his wares from 1900-1908 at Societe des Artistes Francais in the decorative arts section and received many prizes, such as the prestigious Prix de Rome in 1907. His business associate was Viollet Le Duc.

After Clovis Viard's death in 1927, Julien continued running the workshop and in 1938, the company merged with its primary producer, Depinoix. Some of Viard's important clients included the perfume houses of Isabey, Gabilla, Lubin, Gueldy, Sauze and Ramses.

Various glassworks such as Baccarat, Depinoix, Leune, Maugenest, Pochet et du Courval, Bobin, Cristalleries de Nancy, Choisy-le-Roi, Societe Parisienne de Verreries all produced Viard models, then returned them to Viard's workshop that featured high temperature ovens for finishing, this included surface recutting, polishing, application of enamels, gilding, patinas, and stopper adjustments. The Viards also finished bottles created by other artists as well as producing their own designs.



Viards flacons appeared in the company catalogues of Depinoix, Leune, Cristalleries de Nancy and Pochet et du Courval, but his name wasn't mentioned, though many of the bottles had his signature. Sometimes his bottles were shown in the glassworks catalogs and sold to more than one perfumer. That's why you will see the same flacon used by two different perfume companies. A good example of this is the bottle used for Dubarry's second version of the Garden of Kama bottle is the same bottle used for Courvousier's Rama perfume. The only difference is the cold patination used on the stoppers, the different labels and presentation cases. But if the bottles didn't have any of these identifying characteristics, it would be impossible to tell who's bottle is who's.

There is a wide variation in quality of Viard signed models, as there were a range of producers, but the quality of the surface decoration was always of the highest excellence. Julien Viard was influenced greatly by Rene Lalique and more often than not, people unfamiliar with Viard mistake Viard bottles for Lalique ones.

Viard as an expert in cold patination. The patina was mostly made up of organic watercolors and when applied to acid etched surfaces, it facilitated the absorption, and produced a subtle transparency. The choice of surface colors was determined by the perfume color and enhanced the presentation.

Viard produced moulds from drawings and many of the major glassworks mentioned above commissioned productions of difficult moulds with intricate designs and application of surface decoration. Models varied from simple to elaborate with figural motifs such as stoppers with patina that recalled elements of the perfume's name. The bottle with non-figural stoppers were often small and had floral designs.

The figural stoppers were almost a hallmark for Julien Viard, he created twenty of them in all, these were directly inspired by his father's bronze figural sculptures. He trademarked his first figural stopper in 1914, however, the production was delayed because of the war, but probably introduced in 1916. This bottle was for the first version of Dubarry's Garden of Kama perfume.

Some bottles were simply marked with an acid stamp "Made in France"; others were signed J. Viard or J. Villard (when in collaboration with the other famous designer Lucien Gaillard.)

 Here is the list of the many perfume bottles designed by Julien Viard, with the introduction date, perfume name, perfume company and glassworks:

  • 1898 Enigma by Lubin (Baccarat)
  • 1905 Fleurs de Mousse by Sauze
  • 1910 Isadora by Caron, (Cristal Romesnil)
  • 1910 Mon Caprice by Vinolia, (Depinoix)
  • 1910 Parfum Precieuse/Precieux by Caron, (Cristalleries de Pantin or Cristal Romesnil
  • 1911 Le Narcisse Noir by Caron, (Cristalleries de Pantin)
  • 1911 Meggy by D'Orsay, (Baccarat)
  • 1912 Gai Paris by T. Jones
  • 1912 Desir Princier by Lentheric
  • 1912 Mysteria by Tokalon
  • 1913 Narcissus/Jasmin by Wolff & Söhne
  • 1913 Gaby by Avenel, (Depinoix)
  • 1913 Nelly by D'Orsay, (Baccarat)
  • 1913 Leur Cœur by D'Orsay, (Baccarat)
  • 1913 Rama by Courvoisier
  • 1913 La Feuillarie by Gueldy
  • 1913 Rarissime by Caron, (Cristallerie de Pantin)
  • 1914 Les Trois Muses by Charles Fay
  • 1917 Les Violettes by Molinard, (Baccarat)
  • 1917 Les Violettes du Loup by Molinard, (Baccarat)
  • 1917 Arcadia by Dubarry
  • 1917 Caresse d'Amour by Mury, (Baccarat)
  • 1918 Apres la Pluie by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1918 Apres l'Hiver by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1918 Golden Morn by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1918 Pierrot Vainqueur by Hygienof, (Depinoix)
  • 1918 L'Heure Heureuse by Arys
  • 1918 Idyllis by Andre Picard, (Baccarat)
  • 1918 Le Lys Rouge by Gueldy
  • 1918 Encharma by Luxor
  • 1918 Jockey Club by Dubarry
  • 1918 L’Ambré by Regaud
  • 1919 Blue Lagoon by Dubarry
  • 1918 Parfum Surfin by Nogara, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 Nazir by Gueldy
  • 1919 Chypre by Myrurgia
  • 1919 Pour la France by Vivaudou, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 A Toi by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 Chypre Egyptien by Babani, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 Madelon by Felix Boissard
  • 1919 Ambre des Pagodes by Lydes
  • 1919 Le Jasmin by Gueldy
  • 1919 Le Triomphe by Gueldy
  • 1919 Premier Oui by Arys, (Lalique)
  • 1919 Garden of Kama by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 La Feulleraie by Gueldy
  • 1919 L'Amour dans la Coeur by Arys, Lalique
  • 1919 Fantôme d'Orient by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 A Bunch of Violets by Dubarry, (Depinoix)
  • 1919 Ramses IX by Ramses, (Baccarat)
  • 1919 Le Sentier de la Vertu by Botot
  • 1920 Eva by Bertelli, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 Eva by Lubin
  • 1920 Le Triomphe by Gueldy
  • 1920 Dans les Nues by J. Giraud et Fils
  • 1920 Rubaiyat by Rimy
  • 1920 Hearts Delight by Dubarry
  • 1920 Ylang- Ylang by Dubarry
  • 1920 Imprevu by Gueldy
  • 1920 Le Look by Nissery
  • 1920 Le Jardin en Fête by Nice-Flore
  • 1920 The Heart of a Rose by Dubarry, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1920 Boite a Mouillettes by Robertet, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 L'Amour dans le Coeur by Arys
  • 1920 Nuit Fleurie by L'Institute de Beaute, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 Fête de Nuit by Agnel
  • 1920 Rose by Silka
  • 1920 Douce France by Lubin
  • 1920 Chèvrefeuille by Silka
  • 1920 Berylis by Lydes
  • 1920 Arôme Mystique by Silka
  • 1920 Ambre du Pamyre by d'Ambroise
  • 1920 Ambre de Carthage by Isabey
  • 1920 glass powder box w/draped nude for Dubarry
  • 1920 Promenade Matinale by Arys, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 Soir de Lune by Brecher, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 Maderas de Oriente
  • 1920 Charme de Femme by Charles Fay
  • 1920 La Rosee by Estmer
  • 1920 La Violette by Honoré Payan
  • 1920 Folavril by J. Giraud et Fils
  • 1920 Muse des Bois by Regaud
  • 1920 Ambre de Nubie by Ramses
  • 1920 Le Roman de la Rose by Salancy, (Depinoix)
  • 1920 Matin Fleuri by Sauze Freres
  • 1920 Stellamare by Gueldy, (Choisy-le-Roi)
  • 1920 Parfum les Trois Muses, La Danse by Charles Fay, (Cristal Nancy)
  • 1920 Lily of the Valley by Dubarry
  • 1920 Es-Tu-Recuerdo by Sambel
  • 1920 Clavel de Espanga by Myrurgia
  • 1920 Ambra by Wolff & Söhne
  • 1920 Lily of the Valley by Frères Buisson
  • 1920 Parfum de Robj by Robj
  • 1920 Eau de Cologne a la Fougere by Sauze Freres
  • 1920 Jasmin by Wolff & Söhne
  • 1920 Loki by Gueldy, (Baccarat)
  • 1920 Dear Heart by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1920 Madapril by J. Giraud et Fils
  • 1920 Profumo di Violet by Bertelli
  • 1920 No 6 by Volnay, (Depinoix)
  • 1920s various soliflore perfumes by Nanteuil, (Depinoix)
  • 1920s IX by Delettrez
  • 1920 Jasmine by Bernard et Roger
  • 1920 Glycines by Gueldy
  • 1920s Origan by De Florente
  • 1921 Dacry by Cottan, (Depinoix)
  • 1921 Magda by Lubin
  • 1921 Origanum by Myrurgia
  • 1921 A Moi? by Myrurgia
  • 1921 The Unknown Flower by Colgate
  • 1921 Monazur by Raibaut, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1921 Enigma by Lubin
  • 1921 Cathedral by Gueldy
  • 1921 Jasmine by Silka
  • 1921 Chypre de Fleur by Gilot
  • 1921 Reverie by Grenoville
  • 1921 Le Bonheur Existe by Avenel, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Suspiro de Granada by Myrurgia, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Douces Fleurs by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1922 Reve de Bonheur by Lemoine, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Ambre by Lubin, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Silhouette by Fracy
  • 1922 Fantasia de Fleurs by Lemoine
  • 1922 Silvette by Fracy
  • 1922 Chanson d’Été by Luyna
  • 1922 Gotic by Gueldy
  • 1922 L'Origan by Forest
  • 1922 Besame by Myrurgia
  • 1922 Le Lilas de C Laurent by CH Laurent, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Riva Amata by Riguad, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Pour Moi Seule by Lemoine
  • 1922 Onyx by Fracy
  • 1922 Zeth by A. Euziere
  • 1922 Brisas de Mar by Corominas
  • 1922 Le Lilas by Ch. Laurent, (Depinoix)
  • 1922 Le Prestige by Gueldy.
  • 1922 L'Origan by Forest
  • 1922 Falenas by Hermanos Cortes
  • 1922 Oleander by JE Atkinson
  • 1922 Darling by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1922 Chypre de Fleur by Gilot
  • 1922 Amaryllis by Lubin
  • 1922 Sakya Mouni by Les Parfums de Rosine
  • 1923 Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro
  • 1923 No. 1 by Rallet
  • 1923 Maflor by J. Giraud Fils
  • 1923 Deauville by Richard Hudnut, (Depinoix)
  • 1923 Hibiscus by The House of Fragrance, (Depinoix)
  • 1923 Pour Vous by Richard Hudnut
  • 1923 Vivante by Lournay
  • 1923 Lilas by Lournay
  • 1923 D'ara by Tokalon
  • 1923 Extase by Erasmic
  • 1923 C'est Paris by Fontanis
  • 1923 Ta Wao by Madhva, (Baccarat)
  • 1923 Divine Chanson by Nice Flore, (Depinoix)
  • 1923 Orgia by Myrurgia
  • 1923 La Rose by Molinard
  • 1923 Elba by Cortes
  • 1923 Mysorine by Rongy, (Depinoix)
  • 1923 Damaya by Madhva, Baccarat
  • 1924 Arlequinade by Les Parfums de Rosine
  • 1924 Vieux Paris by Legrain, (Depinoix)
  • 1924 Parfum Radiant by Caron
  • 1924 Mimosa by Les Fontaines Parfums, (Depinoix)
  • 1924 Locion Formosa by Myrurgia
  • 1924 Sous la Charmille by Brecher, (Depinoix)
  • 1924 Bouquet de Chypre by Pelissier-Aragon, (Depinoix)
  • 1925 Bleu de Chine by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1924 Source Bleue by A. Euziere
  • 1924 Mon Seul Ami by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1924 Fadette by Richard Hudnut
  • 1924 Deauville by Richard Hudnut
  • 1924 Lys Noir by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1924 Pao-Lou by Molinard
  • 1924 Lilas by Isabey
  • 1924 L'Oeillet by Molinard Jeune
  • 1924 Route d'Emeraude by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1924 Effluves by Myurgia
  • 1924 Pocahontas by Caron
  • 1924 Nirvana by George le Jeune
  • 1924 Royal Moderne by Forest
  • 1924 Grand Chic by Forest
  • 1924 Le Mimosa by Parfums d'Ambroise
  • 1924 Ambre de Carthage by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1925 Chypre Celtique by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1925 Glyciane by Favolys et Rendes
  • 1925 Orchidee by Renaud, (Cristal Nancy)
  • 1925 Sweet Pea by Renaud, (Cristal Nancy)
  • 1925 Una Flor by Myrurgia
  • 1925 Fleur Chine by Isabey
  • 1925 La Dans by Delettrez
  • 1925 Rosee d'Argent by Isabey
  • 1925 Nuit du Lido by Les Parfums du Lido
  • 1925 Lilas de Luxe by Lubin
  • 1925 New Year's Eve by Hattie Carnegie
  • 1925 Qui m'aime? by Best & Co
  • 1925 Chypre by Richard Hudnut, (Cristal Nancy)
  • 1925 Muy Feminino
  • 1925 L'Ocean Bleu by Lubin
  • 1925 Rose by Dryalis
  • 1925 Chypre by Monna Vanna
  • 1925 Parisienne Jolie by Dorilly
  • 1925 Notchenka by Renaud
  • 1925 Le Gardenia by Isabey
  • 1925 Doux Sourire by Regaud
  • 1925 Hattie Carnegie by Hattie Carnegie, (Depinoix)
  • 1925 Chypre Mousse by Lengyel
  • 1925 Fantasio by Myrurgia
  • 1925 Printemps Pro-Chain by Freres Vibert
  • 1925 Shari by United Drug/Langlois, (Depinoix)
  • 1925 L'Incomparable by Napoleon, (Depinoix)
  • 1925 Venez Avec Moi by Bonwit Teller, (Depinoix)
  • 1925 Brisas de Ophir by Cortes Hermanos, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1926 La Reverie by Richard Hudnut, (Cristal Nancy)
  • 1926 Vers la Joie by Rigaud
  • 1926 Fleur Ardente by Luyna
  • 1926 Le Mimosa by Isabey
  • 1925 Serenade by Woodworth
  • 1926 La Soirée by Richard Hudnut
  • 1926 Lilac by Liberty & Co
  • 1926 Sourire Fleuri by Isabey, (Depinoix)
  • 1926 Mona Lisa by Lina Cavalieri
  • 1926 Le Muguet by Isabey
  • 1926 Lilas by Lubin
  • 1926 Lily by Liberty & Co
  • 1926 Ambre de Carthage by Arys
  • 1927 Narciris by Biette, (Depinoix)
  • 1927 My Sin by Gabilla
  • 1927 Monjoly by Lubin
  • 1927 La Soiree by Richard Hudnut, (Cristal Nancy or Cristal Romesnil)
  • 1927 Nuit de Stamboul by Ramey, (Depinoix)
  • 1927 La Danse de Fleurs by Delettrez
  • 1927 Vers la Joie by Rigaud
  • 1927 Ambre Chinois by JE Atkinson
  • 1927 Djer Lady by Kerkoff
  • 1927 Lys Noir by Isabey, (Bobin Freres)
  • 1927 Nuit Etolee de Bagdad by Diamant Bleu
  • 1928 Un Jardin la Nuit by Arys
  • 1928 Soir de Lune by Brecher
  • 1928 Amber by Liberty & Co
  • 1928 Cantique des Cantiques by Marques de Elorza, (Verrières Leune)
  • 1928 Mes Cher Aimis by Arys
  • 1928 Soo-San by Liberty & Co
  • 1928 Jasmine by Liberty & Co
  • 1928 Chypre by Liberty & Co
  • 1928 Nuit de Mariage by Parfums de Paul, (Depinoix)
  • 1928 Argentina by Marques de Elorza, (Depinoix)
  • 1929 Marche Nuptiale by Marques de Elorza
  • 1929 Jockey Club by JE Atkinson
  • 1929 La Comble by George Baring
  • 1929 Femme Divine by Parfums Louette, (Depinoix)
  • 1929 Valencia by Marques de Elorza
  • 1930 Muguet by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1930 Margot la Brune by Janey
  • 1930 Soir d'Orient by Janey
  • 1930 Chypre by Richard Hudnut
  • 1930 Chypre by Le Galion
  • 1930 Gardenia by Morin
  • 1930 La Rêverie by Richard Hudnut
  • 1930 Veronque by Marcel Guerlain
  • 1930 Origan by Lugdor, (Depinoix)
  • 1933 Embrujo de Sevilla by Myrurgia
  • 1934 Lilas by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1934 Tendre Poeme by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1934 Panier Fleuri by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • 1937 Femme Divine by Loulette, (Depinoix)
  • 1939 Brumes by Le Galion
  • 1940 Tulip Time by Harriet Hubbard Ayer
  • Sappho by Avenel, (Depinoix)
  • Trianerias by Bourjois, (Depinoix)
  • Violette by Parfums Nissery
  • Narcisse by Julia
  • Parfum Aux Fleurs by Charmion et Caresse

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