Saturday, March 29, 2014

Crepe de Chine by F. Millot c1925

Crepe de Chine by Francois Millot: launched in 1925, created by Francois Millot's grandson, Jean Desprez. Crepe de Chine was launched at the 1925 Paris Art Deco Exposition. Crepe de Chine derives its name from the very fabric, which was a new material at the time.



The Eau de Cologne was released in 1950. An atomizer came out in 1955. And the bath Poudre Glacee came out in 1958, its aerosol spray form came out in 1959.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a vibrantly green, aldehydic chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange, aldehydes, lemon
  • Heart notes: eglantine, carnation, lilac, elemi, ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose and iris
  • Base notes: cedar, heather root, amber, galbanum, sandalwood, benzoin, leather, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, musk

Synthetic Perfumes: Their Chemistry and Preparation, 1949:
"Isobutyl phenylacetate (synonym: eglantine) has a very sweet and powerful honey like odor that imparts individual freshness to flowery perfumes such as rose, carnation and tuberose as well as oriental type perfumes: example: Mitsouko, Crepe de Chine and Tabac Blond. 
Citraldiethylacetal has a lemon like odor, much milder than citral. It is used in Eau de Cologne and to give a top note in Crepe de Chine, Mitsouko and similar fancy perfumes."



Period Advertisements:


Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1939:
"F. MILLOT "Recital" created by F. Millot is a companion perfume to Millot's Crepe de  Chine. It is an enchanting odor, light and gay"




The New Yorker, 1961:
"F. Millot (famous for that soft, insidious Crepe de Chine that has been around for decades) has added one called Insolent, much sweeter and lighter and gayer than any of the insolent people I know."

Modern Packaging, 1962:
"Millot's Crepe de Chine aerosol dusting powder  is being launched on its fourth successful season with 400% sales increase each year since 1958 introduction is reported for Millot "Crepe de Chine" spray dusting powder which comes out this spring in a new aluminum container more attractive for dressing-table use, with all identification..."

Harper's Bazaar, 1964:
"Splash Day in some places occurs the very first day in May. But Millot tells us you'll have to wait until May 15 for theirs. That's the mark- it-in-red day you can first buy new Crepe de Chine Splash, a totally different after-bath, after- shower and after-swim lotion. Some privileged early users report "it's like a portable shower", a "ten degree drop in temperature." Of course it's lightly scented with Millot's famous Crepe de Chine perfume and that alone makes it worth waiting for. 8 ounces $4.00. At Lord & Taylor."

Cue, 1971:
"Millot's Crepe de Chine, in an "antique" metal "ink stand" with quill — a sachet shaker to delight, $7.50."

Playbill, 1974:
"Millot's Crepe de Chine in "Fresheners", 24 fragranced towelettes."

Mademoiselle, 1975:
"In the thirties — when the implicit or expressed theme of nearly every other feature article in Mademoiselle seemed to be 'get your man' — college coeds were favoring fragrances like Crepe de Chine by Millot of Paris. Inspired by the luxurious fabric. It was an enchanting blend of musk, sweetness and tang."

McCall's, 1976:
"There are dollars off on Crepe de Chine Eau de Toilette Spray, $3, and Perfumed Hand & Body Lotion, $5; by F. Millot."

Cue, 1976:
"At B. Altman, for example, $5 will get you a lovely real jade pendant-on-a- chain, filled with Millot's Crepe de Chine perfume."

Soap, 1977:
"Crepe de Chine" fragranced pebbles inside a golden pendant on a 24-inch chain is priced at $6."


Bottles:

Crepe de Chine was presented in various bottles over the years.

c1929 ad


c1938 ad


c1937 ad

c1946 ad

c1947 ad

c1967 ad



The Fate of the Fragrance:


The original version of Crepe de Chine has been discontinued since 1980 or so, but the company of Irma Shorell, Inc purchased the trademark and sells a reformulated version of the perfume on their website at very reasonable prices for this long-lost favorite.

Reformulation composition:
  • Top notes: neroli, Italian bergamot, Egyptian basil, oil of Peru and fresh aldehydes
  • Heart notes: gardenia, ylang ylang, carnation, lilac, otto of rose, Romanian chamomile and Egyptian jasmine
  • Base notes: sandalwood, East Indian musk, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin and Indonesian patchouli


Irma Shorell, Inc.:
"Crepe de Chine is a stunning, world class perfume. The scent has a clean, fresh entry with a gorgeous full bodied green floral accord at its heart, all over creamy, dreamy exotic woods. Crepe de Chine envelopes you with beauty beyond compare."

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