Sunday, April 6, 2014

Les Parfums Sterlé

Les Parfums SterlĂ©, was established by Pierre SterlĂ© in Paris; a jewellery company, launched a range of fragrances in 1950’s.



It was in 1955 that SterlĂ© began to have his first financial difficulties. The launch of his two perfumes, Huit-Huit and  Diam, unfortunately, were a financial disaster. He had refused, as usual, to take into account the cost of manufacture, and as a result was forced to sell the product for below the cost price. In 1970, Sterle dropped its perfume line and concentrated on its jewelry .

Sterle's exclusive distributor in the USA was the Jarno Distributing Company of Chicago, Illinois.


N.A.R.D. Journal, 1964:
"HUIT HUIT for brunettes, and Diam for those with lighter hair and skin tones, created by Les Parfums Sterle, Paris , France, are being introduced in the United States by Boitel - Aumont Corporation , 100 Park Avenue , New York City."

The perfumes of SterlĂ©:

  • 1955 S Eau de SterlĂ©
  • 1955 Andantino
  • 1955 Diam
  • 1955 En Revant
  • 1955 Lecon d'Amour
  • 1955 Eau Forte
  • 1955 Irradiance
  • 1955 Monsieur SterlĂ©
  • 1955 Huit-Huit
  • 1956 Tertio



Huit Huit (Eight -Eight) 




Introduced in 1955, its name refers to the 2 gold wedding rings placed together, or more precisely, the technical name of a specific diamond cut used by SterlĂ©, in eight facets to the crown and eight facets to the breech, in addition to the table. 

"Sterle has created Huit-Huit the most precious perfume in the world, approved by the municipal council of Paris for presentation to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, on the occasion of the Reception in her Honor on the 10th of April 1957 at the Hotel de Ville, Paris." 


 Combat, 1955:

"Huit Huit - it is today that Pierre Sterlé presents, in the salons of the Plaza-Athénée, the first perfume created by a great jeweler. His name 'Huit-Huit', will not fail to intrigue. It is the one of a very particular size of the brilliant. However, as Sterlé announces, his perfume, which he claims is the most precious in the world, is 'radiant and incorruptible like a diamond'. It is a high ambition. I will tell you, next Friday, if 'Huit-Huit' seems to me to keep its promises."

In 1956, it was known as the "world's most expensive perfume", retailing in France at 28,000 francs ($70) for 1/3 of an ounce. Yet, in spite of its high price, more than 50 gallons had been sold within four months. Huit Huit was eventually discontinued sometime in the 1970s.

Huit-Huit is described as warm, sweet and fruity and was created to be worn by brunettes. 
  • Top notes: bergamot, aldehyde, fruity note, cyclamen, Japanese camelia, lily of the valley, hyacinth
  • Middle notes: gardenia, Bulgarian rose, orris, violet, jasmine, tuberose, oregano
  • Base notes: ambergris, vanilla, honey, spices, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood

Femina, 1955:
"The 8-8 (name of a diamond cut) by Sterlé, based on Bulgarian rose."

Eugene Fodor's France, 1958:

"Sterle - "Huit-huit", fruity and gay. "

Combat, 1959:

"Perfume of a jeweler, as it is of a couturier. Huit-Huit de SterlĂ© is a gem. It's easy to imagine the enticing scent of jasmine star adamantines in diamonds. Here it is molded on the sweet iris of amethysts, the cyclamen of rubies, the daffodil of topazes and all the smells of May, which have the liquid freshness of emerald. The poignant aroma of aphrodisiac musk, barely touched with amber, which ties it all together, could be the solar smell of gold, eternal pledge of burning instincts. Thus this most beautiful perfume is, for me, like the barbaric and supernatural jewel which retains, in the wild grotto of desire, the last veil of Salome."


Combat, 1960:

"This illustrious jeweler's perfume had to have, for the sense of smell, the sumptuous brilliance that a precious jewel offers to the eye. It is a scent of civilized. But the tortuous floating of musk, fixed by a touch of 'deeply sensual amber lets you imagine a sumptuous wild beast under the well-groomed flesh of the young woman who spreads its reassuring floral bouquet, even if her behavior is of perfect distinction. We recognize soft, haughty and tender breaths in this bouquet: morgue of the Bulgarian rose; insipid charm of the tuberose; green sweetness of the lily of the valley; protrusions of the hyacinth. Yet the musk has the last word. It brings back the secret action of this triumphant aroma to the soft hungers. Women's perfume of of high birth, daughter of an aristocrat, a great bourgeois, a famous sailor, but who knows how not to forget, in the hours of abandonment, that she is simply a woman."


Guide to Europe, 1963:

""Huit-Huit" — (delicate, warm, tenacious, for brunettes and mature women)."

The crystal bottle featured a clever idea in the crystal stopper of its bottle, which is cut with facets like an octagonal shaped diamond solitaire. An 18 karat gold wedding ring makes a collar around the neck of the bottle and can be removed for wear if required. The crystal bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. The base of the bottle is molded with "Made in France." 

This parfum bottle came in four sizes:  
  • 1/2 oz (bottle stands 1.25" tall)
  • 1 oz (bottle stands 2.25" tall)
  • 2 oz (bottle stands 3" tall)
  • A miniature replica size can be found with a black bakelite screwcap rather than the crystal stopper, this bottle stands only 1" tall. 
A modified version of this bottle was also used for the 2 oz eau de toilette, this bottle, of clear glass, had a black bakelite screwcap.

Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris, 1957:
"STERLÉ, Joaillier presents "Huit-Huit", perfume and eau de Sterlé 550 Francs to 26,000 Francs."
According to an inflation calculator, these prices convert to $52.07 to $2,461.11 in 2022. The most expensive version included the 18kt gold wedding ring, this presentation was housed in an oval, hinged jewelry box. 


Combat, 1955:
  • "Christmas gift of extreme refinement - Huit Huit de SterlĂ©, the most precious perfume in the world, is presented in a bottle set with a braided gold ring."
Jardin des arts - Volume 2, 1956:
"Perfume "Huit-huit", created by Sterlé. Bottle cut crystal set with a braided gold chainmail ring."





L'Art et la mode, 1958:
"STERLE delicious perfume "Huit-huit," the precious fragrance of all, now has its bottle-Spray Atomizer, tubular container canted white crystal and black enamel cap: chic, very convenient."










Diam:


Diam is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women and was created to be worn by blondes. It's name refers to diamond.
  • Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lily of the valley, lilac
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, gardenia, ylang ylang, and heliotrope
  • Base notes: benzoin, styrax, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, and vetiver

L'Art et la mode, 1959:
"Remember if you already know; this is, for example, the magnificent "Diam" of Sterlé second perfume jeweler since Sterlé has combined so closely - and so happily, let us say - the art of jewelry to the art of the perfumer."



Tertio:


Tertio derives from the French word “Tertio" in English means "thirdly."

















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