Parfumerie de Burmann, Burdin & Marc Isanbel

Parfumerie de Burmann, was established in 1934 at a shop originally located at 70 avenue des Champs-Elysees in France, and later at 4 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The company name was derived from those of the joint founders, Stephane Burdin and Andre Baumann.

The company produced modest presentations using opaque glass bottles from the Cristalleries de Nancy. 

Their most important perfume bottle was for the scent La Sirene, from 1935, presented in a bottle designed in 1912 by Rene Lalique. The bottle for La Fleur de Tabac was also housed in a Rene Lalique flacon.

The perfume bottle for Le Rayon d'Or of 1929 was presented in a flacon by the Cristalleries de Baccarat, bottle design # 681.

The perfumes of de Burmann:

• 1920 Rosadia
• 1920 Un Conte
• 1920 La Fleur de Tabac
• 1929 Le Rayon d'Or
• 1930 L'Or de Minuit 
• 1934 La Sirene
• Carillon d'Amour
• Rosabella
• Chypre
• Oeillet
• Rose
• Lilas
• Jasmin
• Violette

Burdin:

The Burdin perfumery and cosmetic boutique was established in 1937 by Stephane Burdin and Maurice Baumann. Originally the company was called Parfums de Burmann. A second Burdin shop was opened during the mid 1940s at 123 Boulevard Sébastopol.

 Burdin ceased business sometime in the 1960s, but the brand was revived in 2014 when the grandson of Stefan Burdin, Edward and his wife Ingrid decided to reopen the brand. They called upon the experts at IFF to help them develop some new fragrances to resurrect the company. Véronique Nyberg created modern reorchestrations of three vintage scents: Paris Minuit, Les Beaux Jours and Tout Est si Beau (renamed Tinoutcha). Nathalie Feisthauer created Emmene-Moi, Soir d'Or, Amoroso, Carrure, En Garde!, and Sans Temoin.

The original perfumes of Burdin:

• Paris Minuit
• Tout est si Beau
• Les Fleurs
• Rose
• Soir d’Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Tabac Doux

The perfumes of the resurrected Burdin perfumery:

• 2014 Tinoutcha
• 2014 Paris Minuit
• 2014 Les Beaux Jours
• 2021 Emmene-Moi
• 2021 En Garde! 
• 2021 Sans Temoin
• 2022 Soir d'Or

Tinoutcha, launched in 2014. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: pear, peach, osmanthus
• Middle notes: Turkish rose, jasmine, violet
• Base notes: agarwood (oud), sandalwood, cashmere wood

Paris Minuit, launched in 2014. It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: pink pepper, bay leaf, mandarin
• Middle notes: orange blossom absolute, ylang ylang, gardenia
• Base notes: amber, vanilla, patchouli

  Les Beaux Jours, launched in 2014. It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: litchi, pomegranate, clementine
• Middle notes: Madonna lily, jasmine, Turkish rose
• Base notes: vetiver, cedar, musk

 Emmene-Moi, launched in 2021. It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: apricot, bergamot, black pepper and lemon
• Middle notes: Chinese osmanthus, neroli and lily-of-the-valley
• Base notes: Virginian cedar and musk

Amoroso, launched in 2021. It is classified as an aromatic woody fragrance for men.  

• Top notes: lavender, fig nectar, bergamot
• Middle notes: spices, fig tree
• Base notes: musk, cedar

En Garde! Launched in 2021. It is classified as a spicy woody fragrance for men.

• Top notes: bergamot, pine tree, black pepper
• Middle notes: rose, geranium, pink pepper
• Base notes: resin, cedar, tonka bean

Sans Temoin, launched in 2021. It is classified as an amber fragrance for men.

• Top notes: lily-of-the-valley, bergamot
• Middle notes: tonka bean, patchouli, cedar
• Base notes: amber, vanilla, musk

Carrure, launched in 2022. It is classified as a spicy woody fragrance for men.

• Top notes: grapefruit and Guatemalan cardamom
• Middle notes: nutmeg, allspice, and Jamaican pimento seeds
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, cedar and amyris

Soir d'Or, launched in 2022. It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women.

• Top notes: litchi, bergamot and pear
• Middle notes: heliotrope, Bulgarian rose, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine and carrot seeds
• Base notes: Ambroxan, musk and cedar

Marc Isanbel:

Marc Isanbel of Paris; sold perfumes in the 1940s, associated with Les Parfums Burdin. I believe that the Marc Isanbel company may have acquired Les Parfums Burdin and relaunched some of their fragrances under the Marc Isanbel name in the 1940s or vice a versa. Berylune is the rebranded perfume Tabac. Cuir de Russie and Tabac were also sold by Les Parfums Burdin.

The name Isanbel was trademarked in Cuba in 1950.

The Perfumes of Marc Isanbel:

• Berylune (this is the re-branded fragrance 'Tabac')
• Cuir de Russie
• Tabac

The Burdin perfumes can be found using Isanbel branded bottles.

Bottles:

The luxurious Marc Isanbel perfume bottles are exquisitely made of frosted glass and have an unusual pattern that reminds me of melted candle wax that has dripped repeatedly over a bottle, like those chianti flasks found in Italian restaurants. The large disk shaped frosted glass stoppers have the matching pattern. The bottles have their paper labels fitted towards the upper part of the bottle just below the neck, a small square reserve molded into the bottle fits the labels perfectly inside. The bases will are molded with "Isanbel Paris". The unique bottles were made in Czechoslovakia by Verreries Tcheco-Moraves - CMS formerly the Reich factory.

Often one cannot find the bottles with their labels intact. The bottles can be found in five different sizes:

• 1/4 oz? bottle stands 2.40" (6.1cm) tall 
• 1/2 oz? bottle stands 2.87" (7.3cm) tall
• 0.73 oz (21ml) bottle stands 2.75" tall 
• 1 oz (30ml) stands 2.95" (7.5cm) tall with a stopper diameter of 
• stands 4.72" (12cm) tall with a stopper diameter of 1.96" (5 cm)
• 5" (15.2cm) tall for "Lotion"
• 6" tall with a stopper diameter 2.5"
• stands 6.29" (16cm) tall with a stopper diameter of 2.36" (6 cm)
• stands 7.48" (19cm) tall with a stopper diameter of 2.75" (7 cm)
• stands 9.44" (24cm) tall with a stopper diameter of 3.54" (9 cm)