Thursday, April 24, 2014

Parfums Renoir

Parfums Renoir was established at 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1939.

The Parfums Renoir company operated under the umbrella of "Societe d'Etudes et d'Expansion de la Parfumerie de Luxe, Societe Anonyme" (SEEPL, SA) of 20 rue de la Paix, Paris, along with the two other perfume companies: Parfums Raucour, and Parfums Robert Piguet.



 
Parfums Renoir launched their own line of fragrances but also produced perfumes for other companies such as Robert Piguet. Parfums Renoir was established at 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1939, the same address as SEEPL, SA.

Renoir became Raucour in 1945,but most of the fragrances were still sold under the Renoir name in the USA, where they were distributed by Mauvel Ltd of New York.




Renoir had a perfume Futur in 1939, this was later used by Piguet in 1967. And while under the Raucour name, the perfume Calypso was released and later used by Piguet. All of these similar named fragrances appear to be the same in formula, just recycled names. When one company was dissolved, the surviving company took over usage of the perfume name, trade dress and distribution, only to be rebranded under their own company name.




Parfums Renoir:



The perfumes of Renoir:
  • 1939 Dona Sol (aldehydic oriental perfume, good with fur)
  • 1939 Futur (a spicy oriental or semi-oriental myrrh perfume)
  • 1939 Messager (aldehydic sweet floral jasmine perfume)
  • 1941 Impetuous
  • 1942 Alibi
  • 1942 My Alibi
  • 1942 Chi Chi (a spicy, powdery perfume)
  • 1942 Witchcraft
  • 1942 Aka-Iveh
  • 1942 Daring
  • 1943 Cattleya Elegans
  • 1944 Paradox
  • 1945 Pastorale
  • 1946 Gambade ((jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle)
  • 1947 Grande Epoque (a spicy floral bouquet perfume)
  • 1949 Eau de Renoir
  • Guirlande
  • Pavane







Eau de Renoir:

  • Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, lavender, rosemary
  • Middle notes: hawthorn, lilac, herbs, orange blossom, clove
  • Base notes:



Combat, 1955:
"Eau de Renoir - the classic essences of a fine eau de cologne are combined with balsamic aromas and clear floral impulses. They enchant ablutions, stimulate energy, relax muscles after sport. It is the fresh strength that flows back from the body of athletes, on the spring stage. You know, these stages which are announced from afar by an aroma of herbs mingled with the perfumes of lilacs and hawthorns, as the sea announces itself, by the powerful breath of the 'iodine."


Dona Sol:

Dona Sol by Renoir is described as a slightly sharp aldehydic perfume imbued with sweet jasmine and warm spice, said to be good with furs. The perfume was inspired by the enticing and dramatic Spanish fashions, capturing all the warmth and romance of Spain. "Renoir takes the fire of seven suns to melt the coolest heart in Dona Sol." It was still being sold in 1959 under Renoir name.
  • Top notes: citrus, neroli, bergamot, aldehydes, linden blossom
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, rose, honeysuckle, lilac, and lily of the valley
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, and civet


Grand Epoque:

Grande Epoque, a spicy floral bouquet perfume, was Renoir's rich, suave distillation of musk, flowers and rare fruit bases including, surprisingly, fig. It was still being sold in 1957 under Renoir name.
  • Top notes: fruity note, fig
  • Middle notes: carnation, floral note
  • Base notes: musk, spices


Messager:

Messager was an aldehydic light white floral perfume, with a warm, velvety, sweet facet, and a dominant jasmine note. It was still being sold in 1959 under Renoir name.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, white lilac
  • Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, lily, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, amber, Corsican wood

Combat, 1954:
"Eau Messager by Renoir: Here is a bouquet of white flowers, less ingenuous than it seems. The captivating tuberose, the voluptuous jasmine, the proud and mystical lily dominate the gentle lily of the valley and the sentimental white lilac. A background of precious Corsican wood strangely the diluted aroma of this immaculate bouquet. The 'messenger' who brings it takes from the gods his fatal elegance as a tightrope walker. Does he have the wings of Mercury at his heels?"



Gambade:

Gambade was a youthful blend of jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle. This was still being sold in 1964 under Renoir name.
  • Top notes: hyacinth, citrus
  • Middle notes: honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, lilac
  • Base notes:

Futur:

Futur was launched in 1939, this was classified as a sparkling oriental or semi-oriental perfume with a dominant base of spices and myrrh, was still being sold in 1964 under Renoir name. It was taken over by Robert Piguet in 1967.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, green note
  • Middle notes: violet, jasmine, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: spices, amber, sandalwood, musk, myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, cedar

Chi Chi:

Chi Chi, pronounced "She She," described as a "piquant", ,"pungent" "daytime spice", was still being sold in 1958.


My Alibi:

My Alibi was also still being sold in 1958 and was described as "sultry" and a "pungent amber odor" and was most likely classified as an oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes:
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes: amber










Raucour:


Raucour's perfumes were sold in clear glass bottles decorated with gilded banding as were the majority of Renoir's.




The perfume Calypso was available in four sizes and retailed for $15, $25, $47.50 and $60 in 1947. A dram size was also available for $2.75

Grand Epoque was available in two sizes and retailed for $15 and $25 in 1947. The dram size was $2.75.

The perfumes of Raucour:
  • 1946 Grande Epoque
  • 1946 Lavande
  • 1946 Calypso
  • 1946 Messager
  • 1946 Cattleya
  • 1946 Futur

3 comments:

  1. I have a vintage bottle of the 1939 Futur de Renoir, a pretty little flacon with golden stripes and glass sphere stopper. The remaining parfum in the bottle is a very dark brown colour , I think some alcohols and other preservatives must have long since evaporated and left behind this condensed, smelly sticky liquid. The scent of course has turned but behind the striking alcohol/putrid fruit scent is a very warm, spicy musky scent, with a little rose! The address listed on the bottle's box is 17 place vendôme paris :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. GRANDE EPOQUE: What a grand perfume this is! After half a century and it smells like heaven. Strong and beautiful and yes the fig is there, I can smell it alright. Honeysuckle, hyacinth and a little jasmine make their appearance, while I cannot detect rose. Is there also musk and resign?
    A vintage gem which you must not miss if you find it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank you so much for the wealth of information you supply. Love looking through your blog. I have the 1960s Futur parfum and edt of Robert Piguet and 2 bottles of Renoir Futur. They carry the same name, but are entirely different fragrances. It’s the same as with Envol by Lancôme and Envol by Ted Lapidus, also same name, different fragrances.

    ReplyDelete

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