Midnight by Tussy c1949

Midnight by Tussy, launched in 1949, was a glamorous and accessible fragrance sold at drugstores. Marketed as magical, romantic, and refreshing, it resonated with women during the 1950s and 1960s and enjoyed a popularity rivaling that of the iconic Evening in Paris. The name "Midnight" was likely chosen to evoke mystery, allure, and a touch of the extraordinary. The word "midnight" originates from Old English, a combination of "mid" (middle) and "niht" (night). The term conjures images of the deepest, quietest part of the night, imbued with secrecy and romantic possibilities. It suggests starry skies, moonlit strolls, and a heightened sense of drama.

The late 1940s and early 1950s were a transitional period known as the post-war era, marked by the optimism and consumerism of a recovering world. Women who had taken on new roles during World War II were now returning to a domestic ideal but retained a sense of empowerment. This period celebrated glamour and femininity, with Christian Dior’s "New Look" defining the fashion of the day. Full skirts, nipped waists, and luxurious fabrics embodied elegance, while beauty trends emphasized polished makeup and coiffed hairstyles. Fragrance was an essential part of this ideal, completing a woman’s sense of sophistication.

A perfume named "Midnight" would have appealed to the romantic and adventurous aspirations of women in this era. Midnight symbolized a time of escapism and fantasy, drawing them into a world of elegance and mystery. It might suggest clandestine rendezvous, exotic travels, or a transformation from the ordinary to the extraordinary—emotions and dreams well-suited to an aldehydic floral fragrance.

In terms of its composition, Midnight was classified as an aldehydic floral, featuring a fantasy of Pacific island flora, musky woods, and warm spices. Aldehydes were a defining trend of the time, popularized by fragrances like Chanel No. 5, which introduced a sparkling, abstract quality to floral scents. Midnight's combination of exotic florals and musky undertones offered a sense of warmth and sensuality, perfectly aligning with the post-war fascination with exoticism and escape. While aldehydic florals were a common theme in perfumery, the addition of Pacific-inspired notes and a touch of spice lent Midnight a unique identity, setting it apart as both trendy and distinct.

Midnight by Tussy captured the aspirations of women in its era, offering them a fragrant fantasy of romance, mystery, and glamour. It not only reflected the trends of the time but also provided an affordable luxury that resonated deeply with its audience.

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Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. A fragrant fantasy of Pacific island flora heightened and touched with musky woods and warm spices.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, lemon, galbanum, petitgrain
• Middle notes: carnation, honey, rose, ylang ylang, jasmine, clove, cinnamon, orange blossom, tuberose, 
• Base notes: tonka bean, styrax, vetiver, civet, musk, sandalwood, cedar, labdanum, oakmoss, vanilla, benzoin, ambergris, patchouli

An ad from 1952 read:

“If you are amorous, and she is glamorous, give Midnight by Tussy, the Scent of the Century."

Scent Profile:

Midnight by Tussy opens with a radiant burst of aldehydes, effervescent and sparkling, evoking the sensation of crisp, cool air touched with the faintest whisper of soap and champagne bubbles. Their luminous quality is softened by bergamot, which lends a juicy yet refined citrus sparkle, slightly tangy with a green, uplifting edge. 

As you inhale deeper, the bittersweet elegance of neroli emerges, its citrus-floral glow blending harmoniously with the brightness of lemon, sharp and vibrant like sunlight cutting through morning dew. The verdant sharpness of galbanum adds a dewy, green bite, evoking freshly crushed leaves with a resinous undertone. This fresh opening is rounded by the earthy, woody citrus of petitgrain, grounding the lively top notes with its slightly floral, leafy nuance.

As the fragrance settles, the heart unfurls a lush bouquet of florals, each note interwoven with complexity and depth. The sweet, honeyed warmth of orange blossom beckons first, its floralcy as radiant as golden sunlight. Tuberose follows, creamy and opulent, filling the senses with its exotic, tropical richness. Ylang-ylang contributes a lush, banana-like sweetness, a touch of buttery decadence that smooths the sharper floral edges. 

The timeless elegance of rose blooms softly, a powdery red-petal warmth that is both romantic and nostalgic, while jasmine adds an intoxicatingly sensual allure, its indolic undertones lending a mysterious depth. Amidst the florals, the spicy snap of carnation crackles with a peppery intensity, underscored by the fiery warmth of clove and the sweet spice of cinnamon, weaving threads of heat and vibrancy through the lush floral tapestry. All of this is gently sweetened by honey, a golden nectar that envelops the florals and spices in a sticky, luxurious glaze.

The base notes emerge like the closing act of an opulent symphony, offering rich, velvety depth and long-lasting warmth. Sandalwood is smooth and creamy, with its signature milky warmth enveloping the composition like soft cashmere. The dry, woody elegance of cedar adds structure, while the grassy smokiness of vetiver provides an earthy counterpoint. 

Labdanum adds a resinous, slightly leathery sweetness, harmonizing with the balsamic richness of benzoin and the warm, golden glow of ambergris. The creamy sweetness of vanilla mingles seamlessly with the nutty, almond-like nuance of tonka bean, while the earthy richness of patchouli lends a grounding depth. Oakmoss offers a mossy, green velvetiness, evoking the scent of a shaded forest floor, and the subtle, animalic musk of civet adds an intimate, sensual undertone.

Together, these base notes form a backdrop of exquisite warmth and complexity, carrying the fragrance into its final evolution. Every layer of Midnight by Tussy contributes to its exotic, mysterious allure, weaving a story of faraway islands, moonlit woods, and stolen moments of romance. The interplay of fresh aldehydes, lush florals, and rich, spicy woods creates a composition as magical and timeless as its name suggests.

Product Line:

The Midnight by Tussy product line was designed to offer a luxurious and cohesive fragrance experience across a variety of formats, allowing women to indulge in the perfume at every stage of their beauty routine. This comprehensive range reflected the mid-20th-century trend of layering scents, ensuring the fragrance lingered throughout the day and was deeply integrated into a woman's personal style.

“Midnight is the fabulous fragrance that scents a whole series of beauty aids. Give a set or a “single” for a lady fair at Christmas. Don't leave romance to chance...wear Midnight by Tussy. A fragrance can be as potent as a come hither smile. And Midnight by Tussy is a scent that appeals to a gentleman‘s senses. This fabulous fragrance scents a whole series of beauty aids from perfume to lipstick to dusting powder. Try them and see if they don’t make you feel romantic and make men feel romantic towards you.”

At the heart of the collection was the cologne and perfume, both providing the signature aldehydic floral composition that defined Midnight’s romantic and glamorous appeal. The perfume, with its higher concentration of essential oils, delivered an intense, long-lasting impression, while the cologne offered a lighter, refreshing option for daily wear or warmer climates.

"Blue ice cologne stick, non -spill. To scent her with Midnight wherever she goes. So refreshing! $1.25."

To extend the experience, body powder and talc were staples of the line, evoking an era when powdering was an essential part of a woman's grooming routine. These powders likely carried the soft, floral essence of Midnight while leaving the skin feeling smooth and subtly perfumed. A particularly unique item in the collection was the bath powder mitt filled with powder, an elegant and functional accessory that added an indulgent touch to post-bath pampering.

"Midnight up to the minute gifts: silken mitt filled with Midnight powder, $1.25, Scented dusting powder with puff, $1.25, Midnight sachet for fragrant lingerie, sheets, $1." 

The inclusion of hand and body lotion catered to women seeking to keep their skin moisturized while layering the scent of Midnight. Its hydrating formula would have left a delicate trail of fragrance, perfect for all-day wear. Similarly, the bubble bath and perfumed soap transformed the daily bath into a luxurious ritual, filling the bathroom with the enchanting aroma of Midnight and leaving the skin delicately scented.

"Lovely Notion, Midnight Lotion! A 6 oz bottle of exquisite hand & body lotion, plus a purse dispenser. She’ll refill from big bottle. Both for only $2. Midnight bubble bath, sixteen packets for fragrant bubble baths. Romantic Midnight scent. $1. "

The cream perfume, a popular choice for its portability and subtle application, likely came in a charming compact, allowing women to refresh their scent discreetly throughout the day. Meanwhile, the lipsticks in the line allowed fans of the perfume to extend the Midnight brand into their makeup routine, suggesting that the shades might have been designed to complement the sultry, glamorous persona evoked by the fragrance.

"Midnight Lipstick and Perfume Combinations: Lipstick in one end of the blue and gold case...Midnight perfume in the other, 3 lipstick shades, Midnight, Midnight Pink, Contraband. Only $1."

Together, these products created a holistic fragrance experience, reflecting the 1950s emphasis on glamour and sophistication. The Midnight line not only made the luxurious scent accessible across multiple formats but also allowed women to incorporate its romantic and mysterious allure into every aspect of their beauty and self-care rituals. This comprehensive approach cemented Midnight’s status as a beloved drugstore brand synonymous with affordable elegance.

"Midnight Glamour Set, Exotic Midnight Cologne and soothing, smoothing Midnight Hand & Body Lotion, 2 oz of each. Both for only $1.00."

Bottles:

 The cologne could be found in various sizes from 1 ½ oz, 2 oz, 4 oz and a large 8 oz size. It also came as a Cologne Concentrate in an unbreakable bottle with a push button spray.

 The 2 oz vintage bottle I have has a blue plastic screw cap with embedded confetti. The bottle is marked “Midnight Cologne Tussy Lehn & Fink Products Corp, Bloomfield, NJ.”

In 1958, Tussy introduced the Midnight Fabulous Spray Mist in a blue bottle. In 1964, the Midnight Enchante Mist was introduced with the tagline “Mother doesn't have to be a part of the Jet Set to enjoy this exciting perfume in its blue mist version, but she’ll feel like one.”

Interestingly, Dorothy Gray also launched a fragrance named Midnight, though it was an entirely different perfume from Tussy’s Midnight. This coincidence is not as surprising as it might seem, given that both companies were owned by Playtex during this period. While the two fragrances shared a name, they catered to distinct audiences and embodied unique olfactory profiles, reflecting the branding and positioning of each company.

Tussy's Midnight, with its aldehydic floral composition, was marketed as a glamorous yet accessible fragrance, appealing primarily to young, fashionable women shopping in drugstores. Its romantic and exotic imagery, paired with a comprehensive product line, made it a versatile choice for women who wanted a complete and cohesive fragrance experience at an affordable price.

Dorothy Gray’s Midnight, on the other hand, likely targeted a more mature and affluent audience, as Dorothy Gray was renowned for its luxury skincare and cosmetics aimed at sophisticated women. While details about the exact scent profile of Dorothy Gray’s Midnight are less commonly documented, it is safe to assume that the fragrance would have reflected the brand’s refined and elegant aesthetic, possibly leaning toward richer, more complex notes that appealed to its upscale clientele.

The dual ownership by Playtex may explain the overlapping name, but the execution of each fragrance was tailored to fit the distinct identities of the brands. This strategic differentiation allowed Playtex to appeal to a broad spectrum of consumers by offering two unique interpretations of "Midnight." For Tussy, the name evoked youthful romance and escapism, while for Dorothy Gray, it likely embodied timeless elegance and sophistication.

The presence of two perfumes with the same name under the same corporate umbrella demonstrates how branding and market segmentation influenced product development in mid-20th-century perfumery. Despite their shared ownership, Tussy’s and Dorothy Gray’s Midnights were distinct products, each tailored to the unique expectations and desires of their target audiences.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Midnight by Tussy, launched in 1949, encapsulated the glamour and allure of mid-20th-century femininity. Its rich, evocative fragrance made it a staple for women who sought a scent that felt romantic, mysterious, and refined. Popular during its time, Midnight earned a place in the hearts of many alongside other iconic perfumes of the era, its aldehydic floral profile enhanced by spicy, musky, and exotic notes. Despite its success, Midnight by Tussy was eventually discontinued, though the exact date of its removal from the market remains uncertain. Its absence left a void for loyal fans who treasured its unique composition and the memories it evoked.

In a bid to revive this beloved fragrance, Timeless Perfumes, a company known for recreating vintage scents, acquired the trademark for Midnight by Tussy as of 2006. Under the expertise of Henri Garceau, Timeless Perfumes crafted their own "version" of the fragrance, offering it as a nostalgic homage to the original. However, while this modern reinterpretation bears the Midnight name, it is important to note that it is not the original formula created by Tussy Cosmetics. Instead, it is a recreation inspired by the spirit and profile of the vintage scent.

For enthusiasts and collectors, the distinction is critical. Original bottles of Midnight by Tussy, though rare, hold a different place in the fragrance world—imbued with the authentic aroma of its time and untouched by modern reformulations. The Timeless Perfumes version, while crafted with care, reflects the challenges of recreating a fragrance in a world where some original ingredients may no longer be available or permissible due to regulatory changes. For those lucky enough to experience the true vintage Midnight, it remains a portal to the elegance and mystique of post-war glamour, a testament to Tussy’s contribution to the golden age of perfumery.