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Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Raquel, Inc

Raquel, Inc., a notable name in early 20th-century American cosmetics, was established by Graeff Miller in 1924 at 475 Fifth Avenue, New York City. The company began its marketing efforts in 1926, quickly gaining recognition for its diverse product line. Raquel offered an array of beauty and personal care items, including lipstick, rouge, face powder, soap, compacts, toilet water, sachets, talcum powder, bath crystals, and a collection of perfumes. This comprehensive range positioned Raquel as a sophisticated brand catering to the burgeoning beauty market of the 1920s.

In the same year it began marketing, Raquel, Inc. placed its advertising account with the World Wide Advertising Corporation in New York, reflecting its ambition to establish a strong brand presence. The advertisements highlighted the company’s dedication to luxury and elegance, appealing to the modern, image-conscious woman of the era.

In 1927, Raquel, Inc. underwent a significant transition when it was acquired by Barclay & Co., headquartered at 26 Beaver Street in New York City. While Raquel continued to manufacture perfumes under its established name, Barclay & Co. primarily focused on the exportation of soap. This merger allowed Raquel's brand to expand its reach while maintaining its identity in the perfume and cosmetics industry.



By 1932, Raquel, Inc. relocated to 251 W. 19th Street in New York City, indicating a possible reorganization or strategic shift in its operations. Despite these changes, the brand maintained its relevance in the competitive beauty market.

The company’s longevity is evidenced by a trademark renewal on July 21, 1945, when Lorain Products Co., Inc., a New York corporation, became the assignee through a series of intermediary transfers. This renewal suggests that the Raquel name and its associated products continued to hold value and recognition in the mid-20th century.

Raquel, Inc.'s legacy lies in its ability to adapt and thrive through decades of industry evolution, offering high-quality products that resonated with the tastes and desires of its customers. The company remains an intriguing chapter in the history of American cosmetics and perfumery.





The perfumes of Raquel:

  • 1924 Orange Blossom/Orange Blossom Fragrancia
  • 1924 Olor de la Noche/Fragrance of the Night
  • 1926 Le Menuet
  • 1927 L'Endeley
  • 1930 Chamonix
  • 1931 Gardenia
  • 1935 Primavera
  • 1937 Oriental toilet water
  • 1937 Lilac toilet water
  • 1937 Lavender toilet water
  • 1937 Carnation toilet water
  • 1937 Parisian toilet water



Bottles:


Both Orange Blossom and Olor de la Noche came in four sizes from 3" to 6" tall.

 Beginning in the 1920s all of Raquel's perfumes were housed in these oval shaped bottles with wave like lines on the front and back, with matching stoppers. The bottles came in clear glass, black glass and clear frosted glass, sometimes with gilded stoppers. The design was patented in 1925 by Graeff Miller of Ridgewood, NJ. Design Patent D68,489.



 

 


 





In 1926, the bottles were changed into round spheres with a crackle finish and spire-like blue glass stoppers. These were made at the TC Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, NJ (close to where I live). Wheaton was founded in 1888 and produced bottles for pharmaceutical use, but also for perfumers. By the 1930s, Wheaton was manufacturing bottles for quality perfume brands, both American and European such as Hattie Carnegie, Adrian, Prince Matchabelli, Liz Claiborne, Anne Klein, Corday, Nettie Rosenstein and Shulton.

The older bottles were discontinued because as a newspaper ad states, "the old bottle was expensive to make. The new bottle costs little but is still very good looking".


The "Economy Package" is a clear, cylindrical glass bottle fitted with a "jet black top."



The last newspaper ad I have seen for Raquel perfumes is from 1939, they must have closed business shortly thereafter.



Olor de la Noche: A Perfume of Mystery and Romance


Launched in 1924, Olor de la Noche by Raquel drew inspiration from the allure and mystique of the tropics. The name, Olor de la Noche, is Spanish, meaning "Fragrance of the Night." Pronounced Oh-lor deh lah No-cheh, it evokes the enchanting aroma of a flower that blooms only under the cover of darkness. The name perfectly encapsulates the perfume’s exotic essence and its ties to the romantic legend of the night-blooming cactus flower, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, also known as the "Queen of the Night."

Native to southern Mexico and northern South America, this tropical succulent cactus blooms in the deep quiet of the night, emitting a captivating and otherworldly scent. The flowers, large and waterlily-like, measure up to 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. Their fleeting beauty and heady fragrance enchant for just one night before withering by morning, their essence captured only by nocturnal pollinators like moths and bats. This ephemeral bloom embodies mystery, romance, and the beauty of the moment—qualities that Olor de la Noche sought to distill into its perfume.

The imagery and emotions tied to Olor de la Noche transport one to a lush, moonlit valley high in the Mexican hills, where the radiant flower’s fragrance fills the air with an intoxicating and seductive aroma. Advertisements leaned heavily on this hypnotic vision, describing the flower as one that “welcomes the kisses and caresses of the Moon while scorning the smiles and advances of the Sun.” The perfume was marketed as a blend of exoticism, magic, and sensuality, with the promise of evoking moonlit nights, tropical romance, and amorous adventures.

A 1929 advertisement described the perfume as “laden with the magic of hypnotic tropic nights,” capturing the scent of an exotic blossom that “sends forth its fragrance only in the dark.” The marketing played on the allure of mystery and intrigue, positioning the fragrance as a talisman for evening escapades and romantic encounters. By 1943, the perfume was described as holding “a masque's potency,” emphasizing its allure as a “fragrance of intrigue.” A 1944 advertisement linked it to “all the old Arabic magic,” further enhancing its exotic and enchanting appeal.

The scent itself likely echoed the attributes of the Epiphyllum oxypetalum: a lush, heady fragrance blending creamy floral notes with hints of tropical warmth and perhaps soft, spicy undertones. With its association to moonlit magic and the romance of the tropics, Olor de la Noche would have been the perfect choice for women seeking an air of mystery and elegance during their evening adventures. It wasn’t just a fragrance—it was an experience, a story, and a promise of enchantment distilled into every drop.




Olor de la Noche: A Symphony of Subtlety and Delicacy

As the scent unfolds, the top notes introduce themselves with an air of quiet elegance. Cinnamic alcohol offers a warm, slightly spicy sweetness, evoking the comforting allure of cinnamon bark, tempered by a softness that keeps it refined. Benzyl acetate contributes a crisp, green-floral brightness, reminiscent of delicate jasmine petals basking in the morning dew, while benzyl alcohol lends a faintly balsamic nuance, a smooth backdrop for the brighter tones. The floral essence of jonquil—rich, narcotic, and honeyed—carries a lush warmth, paired with the green, slightly peppery bite of reseda. Together, they create a vibrant yet balanced opening, lightly kissed by the creamy, floral polish of benzyl salicylate, an accord that feels simultaneously luminous and enveloping.

The heart of the fragrance blooms in a vivid display of florals. Ionone, with its powdery and violet-like elegance, bridges the transition with a soft, ethereal presence. The sweetness of orange blossom radiates a sunlit brightness, while the silky, earthy richness of orris root adds a grounding texture. The heady perfume of jasmine dances with the gentle, nostalgic aroma of violet, each contributing a creamy yet airy floral harmony. Rose, with its velvety depth, anchors the bouquet, while the exotic, fruity floralcy of ylang-ylang introduces a tropical lushness. Geranium, with its green and slightly minty sharpness, adds an invigorating spark to the rounded floral core. This floral symphony conjures a garden in full bloom, drenched in moonlight, its fragrance as delicate as it is enchanting.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a luxurious and intimate depth. Angelica offers a bittersweet, herbal spiciness, its slightly musky tone paving the way for the animalic sensuality of civet, which adds a sultry and mysterious undertone. Ambrette, with its soft, musky warmth, introduces an almost skin-like quality that feels both comforting and seductive. The sweetness of coumarin and vanillin infuses the base with a gourmand allure, evoking hints of warm hay and creamy vanilla. Musk ties these elements together with a clean, slightly powdery softness. Cedar adds a dry, woody elegance, while cloves punctuate the warmth with their spicy, aromatic bite. Finally, methyl linoleate brings a subtle waxy, green finish, balancing the richness with a naturalistic freshness.

The result is a fragrance that feels like a gentle caress—subtle yet intricate, delicate yet captivating. "Olor de la Noche" encapsulates the mystery and romance of its namesake flower, blooming quietly in the dark to reveal its hypnotic beauty. This perfume evokes whispered secrets beneath starry skies, its scent weaving a tapestry of sensuality and sophistication that lingers on the skin like a memory.

Olor de la Noche, an emblematic fragrance by Raquel, was a captivating creation whose exact discontinuation date remains shrouded in mystery. While its origins trace back to 1924, its presence lingered into the mid-20th century, with advertisements and availability recorded as late as 1945. This perfume line was not merely a singular product but a comprehensive collection designed to immerse the wearer in its spellbinding aroma across various facets of daily life.

The Parfum, the centerpiece of the collection, offered the most concentrated expression of Olor de la Noche's intricate composition. Housed in elegant bottles, it was designed for special occasions, allowing its wearer to exude a subtle yet mesmerizing presence. For a lighter touch, the Eau de Toilette provided a gentler diffusion of the fragrance, perfect for daytime wear or layering.

Beyond its olfactory appeal, Olor de la Noche extended its influence to the realm of personal care and beauty. Bath salts invited users to indulge in luxurious, fragrant soaks, transforming mundane routines into moments of tranquility and decadence. The dusting powder left a velvety finish on the skin, imbuing it with the fragrance's delicate aura, while the face powder seamlessly blended beauty and scent, making every application a ritual of refinement.

To further enhance the sensory experience, the collection included talcum powder, known for its soothing properties, and sachets, which were tucked into drawers and wardrobes to subtly perfume personal spaces. Each product in the line carried the signature essence of Olor de la Noche, ensuring the scent could accompany its admirers throughout their day and into their dreams.

Despite its eventual discontinuation, Olor de la Noche's legacy endures. Its multifaceted product line and evocative name evoke a bygone era of elegance, when fragrance was more than a luxury—it was a lifestyle. The enduring memory of this iconic scent continues to captivate and inspire, much like the mysterious flower from which it drew its name.





The Allure of Orange Blossom Fragrancia:

Launched in 1924, Orange Blossom Fragrancia by Raquel captivated wearers with its evocative name and enchanting aroma. Translating to "Orange Blossom Fragrance" in Spanish, the name carries a melodic elegance, pronounced as Or-ahn-hay Blah-sohm Frah-grahn-see-ah. Its choice was undoubtedly deliberate, drawing upon the timeless allure of orange blossoms—a symbol of purity, romance, and renewal—while infusing an air of sophistication and exotic charm.

The name conjures vivid imagery: delicate white blooms bathed in the golden light of a spring morning, their soft fragrance floating through a gentle breeze. It evokes emotions of joy, innocence, and the thrilling promise of new beginnings. Romantic and feminine, Orange Blossom Fragrancia resonates with the vision of warm afternoons in chiffon dresses, leisurely garden strolls, and the whispered secrets of budding love.


"The Witching Scent of Springtime"

Orange Blossom Fragrancia was described as the "true enthralling scent of springtime orange flowers," a magical fragrance that had, until its release, been a closely guarded secret known only to a select few. In its initial offering, the scent became a signature of understated elegance, perfect for daytime wear with chiffons, organdies and prints, yet layered with a hint of romance that hinted at its deeper allure. Its character deepened over time, with advertisements claiming the fragrance reached "full enchantment" after two hours, promising an experience that unfolded gradually, like the bloom of a flower.

The scent begins with bright top notes that evoke the crispness of sun-warmed citrus groves. The sparkling zest of bergamot and sweet orange peel mingles with the soft, floral sweetness of linalyl acetate and neroli bigarade. The green, honeyed nuances of cassie add a subtle richness, while phenyl ethyl alcohol lends a fresh, rosy facet.

The heart notes are lush and intoxicating, bursting with the opulence of springtime florals. Orange blossom takes center stage, its creamy, slightly indolic sweetness complemented by the delicate powderiness of orris and the romantic depth of jasmine and rose. The green, dewy charm of jonquil and the violet-like softness of methyl anthranilate weave an intricate bouquet, capturing the essence of a blooming garden.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes unfold with a warm, sensual finish. Ambergris and civet add depth and a subtle animalic allure, softened by the velvety smoothness of musk. The rich, resinous warmth of tolu balsam and sandalwood is spiced with a hint of clove, grounding the ethereal florals and creating a lasting impression that lingers on the skin.

Orange Blossom Fragrancia was more than just a perfume—it was an experience. Its delicate yet romantic nature mirrored the soft hues of spring while embracing the deeper passions of love and mystery. Whether worn for an afternoon outing or an evening rendezvous, it promised to quicken the pulse and lift the heart, leaving behind an aura of enchantment that was utterly unforgettable.


Orange Blossom Fragrancia by Raquel extended beyond a singular perfume; it became a full line of luxurious personal care and beauty products that allowed women to immerse themselves completely in its enchanting aura. Each product was thoughtfully designed to deliver the fragrance in a way that complemented the wearer’s routine, elevating everyday moments into indulgent rituals.

Parfum and Purse-Size Bottles
The Parfum was the pinnacle of the collection, delivering the fragrance in its most concentrated and enduring form. For on-the-go elegance, purse-sized bottles offered a convenient way to reapply this captivating scent throughout the day. These petite, exquisitely crafted containers allowed women to carry a touch of sophistication in their handbags, ready to refresh their allure at a moment’s notice.

Talc and Dusting Powder
The talc and dusting powder added an ethereal softness to the collection. These finely milled powders, infused with the delicate aroma of Orange Blossom Fragrancia, left the skin silky smooth and subtly scented. Perfect for layering the fragrance, they were a favorite for post-bath pampering or a light finishing touch before slipping into evening attire.

Bath Salts
Transforming an ordinary bath into a luxurious escape, the bath salts dissolved to release the fragrance into a warm, relaxing soak. The scent enveloped the senses, turning bathing into a spa-like experience that lingered on the skin and in the mind.

Face Powder in All Shades
Catering to the varied beauty needs of women, the line included face powders in a full range of shades. These powders were designed not only to set makeup and enhance the complexion but also to impart a faint trace of the Orange Blossom Fragrancia scent, ensuring a harmonious fragrance experience from head to toe.

Powder and Rouge Compacts
Elegant powder and rouge compacts completed the collection, blending beauty and functionality. These chic accessories featured finely milled, scented powders that offered touch-ups throughout the day while keeping the fragrance close. The compacts themselves were likely as beautiful as they were practical, an essential part of any sophisticated woman’s vanity or evening bag.

Through this comprehensive range, Orange Blossom Fragrancia became more than just a scent—it became an expression of beauty, refinement, and everyday luxury. Each product invited women to experience the magic of orange blossoms in a way that suited their personal style, creating a cohesive and immersive fragrance journey.





L'Endeley by Raquel: A Name of Mystery and Elegance


Launched in 1927, L'Endeley by Raquel carries a name steeped in intrigue and elegance. Though the etymology of the name remains elusive, its construction—beginning with the French article "L'"—evokes an air of sophistication and cosmopolitan charm. Pronounced "Lahn-duh-lay", the name suggests an abstract, almost poetic quality, as though it belongs to something timeless and refined. The linguistic ambiguity allows it to resonate with mystery, leaving the imagination to fill in its meaning, much like the enigmatic allure of a fine perfume.

The name "L'Endeley" conjures visions of a sunlit morning in an elegant European home, where soft light filters through sheer curtains, and the scent of freshly picked flowers lingers in the air. It evokes a sense of intimacy and refinement, as though it is meant to accompany life’s quiet, cherished moments. With descriptors like “dashing, daring, adorable,” L'Endeley suggests a lively spirit tempered by elegance—a magnetic and mystifying presence that lingers in memory, leaving an indelible impression.

Described as a “delicate bouquet extract,” L'Endeley embodies the essence of a floral symphony in full bloom. Its composition is said to “stir the imagination” and create an alluring aura, perfect for daily use at home or as a teasing, piquant fragrance that captivates those who encounter it. It is a scent that harmonizes the freshness of morning with a sensual undercurrent, embodying both vitality and sophistication. The fragrance strikes a balance between light, cheerful florals and a subtle, lingering depth, ensuring it remains memorable yet delicate enough for daily wear.

To complement its charm, L'Endeley was available in a variety of formats that extended its use beyond a simple perfume. The Essence (Parfum) offered the purest, most concentrated expression of the fragrance, while the Toilet Water provided a lighter option for refreshing applications. Bath Salts turned ordinary bathing into a luxurious ritual, enveloping the senses in its delicate bouquet. Dusting Powder and Talcum Powder added a silky, fragrant finish to the skin, ideal for layering the scent and ensuring it lingered throughout the day.

Although the date of its discontinuation is unknown, L'Endeley was still being sold in 1945, a testament to its enduring appeal. Its blend of sophistication and subtle charm captured the hearts of many, securing its place in the legacy of Raquel’s fine fragrances. Today, it lives on in memory as a scent that stirred imaginations, evoked elegance, and left an irresistible trail of mystery and allure.



Gardenia by Raquel: The Floral Elegance of a Timeless Blossom:


Launched in 1931, Gardenia by Raquel captures the essence of one of nature's most revered flowers, distilling its beauty and fragrance into a sophisticated perfume. The gardenia, known for its creamy white petals and intoxicating scent, symbolizes purity, elegance, and enduring love. Often associated with special occasions, the gardenia has long been a favorite in floral arrangements and as a boutonnière, chosen for its understated glamour and enchanting aroma.

In the 1930s, advertisements for Gardenia by Raquel highlighted its dual appeal: a fragrance perfectly suited for tailored ensembles and an ode to masculinity. Described as the "favorite flower scent of the fashionables," the perfume complemented the sophisticated styles of the era while resonating with men, who often selected the flower for their buttonholes. The scent's elegance made it ideal for daywear, seamlessly enhancing the refinement of a tailored costume, while its underlying romance made it "haunting as a beautiful melody."

A Fragrance That Honors the Flower

Gardenia by Raquel embodies the complexity and allure of its namesake flower. The top notes open with a dazzling brightness—neroli lends a citrusy floral lift, while bitter almond adds a creamy, slightly nutty nuance. The interplay of methyl benzoate and methyl anthranilate introduces sweet and fruity undertones, with benzyl alcohol and benzyl acetate rounding out the opening with a lush, heady quality reminiscent of blooming petals.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a symphony of florals. The richness of French geranium and the spicy, honeyed warmth of cassie lead into the velvety softness of ylang ylang. A radiant bouquet of tuberose, orris, rose, jasmine, and orange blossom captures the multi-faceted beauty of the gardenia flower, evoking the lushness of a garden in full bloom. Phenylacetic aldehyde and linalol weave in a green, slightly fruity accent, adding to the perfume's natural vibrancy.

The base notes anchor the fragrance with a sumptuous depth. Vanilla lends warmth and sweetness, harmonizing with the resinous richness of tolu balsam and the earthy sensuality of ambergris, civet, and musk. Storax adds a balsamic, leathery touch, creating a base that lingers like a soft embrace.

More than a perfume, Gardenia by Raquel captured an era’s appreciation for understated luxury and natural beauty. Its ability to compliment tailored elegance and hint at romance made it a beloved fragrance for both men and women. Still admired decades later, its haunting melody of notes continues to enchant those who imagine its allure—a testament to the enduring charm of the gardenia and the fragrance it inspired.



 


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