Phul-Nana by Grossmith c1891

Phul-Nana by Grossmith: launched in 1891. Phul-Nana, which means "lovely flower," represented a bouquet of chosen Indian flowers. This fragrance paved the way for oriental fragrances today.

"Grossmith’s Phul-Nana - A bouquet of Indian Flowers. Each languorous perfume is merged into one haunting fragrance, seductive and exquisite. It breathes the mystery of an Indian garden, its flower laden beauty sprayed by the mist of numberless fountains. It weaves a spell of enchantment by its subtle allure - it is the sweet spirit of the loveliest of India’s flowers. Richly Oriental in character and supremely delightful for all toilet purposes. Phul-Nana has a world wide reputation amongst lovers of sweet scents. It has a subtle fascination altogether unique and is marvelously fragrant and lastingly refreshing. Prepared in every form necessary for the perfectly harmonious toilet which distinguishes the woman of taste. 

This enchanting perfume weaves its spell through each one of a complete Phul-Nana Series: 

Perfume, Hair Lotion, Toilet Water, Dental Cream, Cachous, Sachets, Bath Crystals, Shampoo Powders, Powder Leaf Books, Brilliantine, Talc Powder, Toilet Cream, Compact, Face Powder, Soap."

During the 19th century, Western society was captivated by the exoticism of the Far East. This fascination, known as Orientalism, influenced everything from household items like crockery and furniture to art, textiles, and fashion, incorporating motifs from China, Japan, India, Egypt, and the Middle East into everyday life.

Inspired by his fascination with the Orient, John Lipscomb Grossmith created perfumes that reflected his personal vision of the East. The inaugural fragrance of his "Oriental Series" was Hasu-no-Hana, introduced in 1888. This perfume was designed to capture the captivating aroma of the Japanese lotus blossom. 

In 1891, Grossmith introduced Phul-Nana, a companion perfume to Hasu-no-Hana, continuing their Eastern-inspired line. Distilled from India's finest flowers, Phul-Nana exuded a distinctive scent reminiscent of the champaca flower. Grossmith recommended it for elegant occasions like ballrooms or theatres, describing it as a rich essence evoking memories of India's lush landscapes and fragrant blossoms.

 In 1895, he set up an elaborate exhibition booth at the Olympia Theatre for a spectacular stage production called "The Orient, Or An Embassy to the East". Designed and arranged by Bolossy Kiralfy. "Oriental warmth pervades throughout the vast structure the building connected by covered way with Addison Road Station. Everything under one roof and seen for one exclusive payment." 

It was billed as "The Grandest Show On Earth" and featured 2500 different performers. It was on the grand stage that a ballet was performed by African dancers and "daring ladder and jumping feats" by the Ibrahim Troupe from Tangier. Also featured were troupes of elephants, dromedaries, camels, horses, mules, etc. The photo below shows Grossmith's booth. Sketch, 1895:

"THE SPICES OF ARABIA - There is a certain fine Eastern touch about the perfumer's art that belongs to few industries of modern civilisation. Thus it was a very appropriate thing for Messrs. Grossmith Son and Co. of Newgate Street, to pitch a bazaar in 'The Orient' at Olympia. They have broken away, too, from the convention of the ordinary exhibition shop. They have set up a faithful replica of a true Eastern bazaar. It is coloured with all the richness and mounted with all the luxuriousness that the Oriental loves, and the weary sightseer may delight himself in luxurious ease within it. The dainty damsels in attendance are tastefully dressed in artistic Indian costumes, with veil and soft silk robes, designed in blue, amber and red, harmonising delightfully with the parti-coloured surroundings. And their wares are no less suggestive of the East. 

There is the delicious perfume Phul-Nanā, essentially the scent for the ball room and the crowded assembly. Its odour, which is not in the least heavy, is that of a basket of fresh gathered Indian flowers, - as, indeed, the name implies. Then there is the Japanese lotus lily, Hasu-no-hana, - surely an up to date perfume, in view of the prominence of Japan, and of the fact that it is a valuable disinfectant as well as a scent. These two products are admirable specimens of the perfumer's art, and the soaps and sachets scented with them, once tried, will readily be tried again. Their Betrothal Bouquet, dedicated to the Duchess of York, shows Messrs. Grossmith to be in the front of their delightful art."

Detailed advertising plays a crucial role in the competitive world of perfumery, effectively engaging both existing and potential customers by showcasing the latest offerings with meticulous attention to detail. These advertisements highlight the quality and craftsmanship of Grossmith's products, distinguishing them in the luxury market and enticing consumers with unique features and benefits. By regularly introducing new additions to their lineup, Grossmith not only maintains customer engagement but also builds anticipation and loyalty, keeping the brand fresh and relevant. Additionally, using Oriental-inspired illustrations in their advertising creates an allure of opulent exoticism and exclusivity, appealing strongly to the public's fascination with the East.

Beyond traditional advertising, Grossmith cleverly distributed trade cards sprayed with their latest scents, offering potential customers a tactile and sensory experience that leaves a lasting olfactory impression. This strategy allows individuals to directly connect with the fragrance, enhancing brand recall and increasing the likelihood of future purchases. Moreover, offering perfume samples in exchange for these cards encourages trial and potential sales, as customers can experience the scent at their convenience. Such initiatives not only promote the brand effectively but also contribute to charitable causes when proceeds from card sales are donated locally.

Grossmith's historical advertisements are prized by collectors for their artistic value and as windows into the brand's innovative marketing techniques. These artifacts not only document the brand's creativity but also highlight its commitment to craftsmanship and quality. 

Grossmith's success and prestige stemmed from its unwavering commitment to using the finest raw materials and applying meticulous craftsmanship throughout its production process. This dedication to quality, from sourcing ingredients to packaging, earned Grossmith a reputation for excellence among discerning consumers. This commitment was recognized with royal warrants from Queen Alexandra and foreign royal courts, such as Greece and Spain, highlighting Grossmith's status as a provider of luxury and sophistication.

Royal patronage bestowed upon Grossmith by members of the monarchy signaled its esteemed reputation and alignment with the highest standards of taste and elegance. Endorsement from royalty added prestige and exclusivity to Grossmith's products, solidifying its position as a leading perfumery in England and abroad.

For consumers, purchasing Grossmith perfumes with royal warrants represented sophistication and status. This endorsement elevated the act of wearing or gifting these fragrances, making them desirable among elite clientele and enhancing Grossmith's brand image.

Grossmith's creation of custom perfumes for royal events showcased their creativity and commitment to honoring significant moments. These bespoke perfumes not only captured the essence of the occasion but also became treasured mementos for those fortunate to possess them.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a heavy floral fragrance for women with a deep, warm Oriental base.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, neroli, herbs 
• Middle notes: carnation, tuberose, ylang-ylang, geranium, spices (cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon)
• Base notes: balsams, patchouli, ambergris, benzoin, cedar, musk, sandalwood, opoponax, tonka bean and vanilla

Bottles:

Grossmith recognized the allure of attractive packaging in influencing initial purchases. His fragrances featured richly colored paper labels and were elegantly presented in decorative boxes. Some perfumes were sold in luxurious Baccarat crystal flacons from France, while others came in ornate pressed glass bottles crafted in England and Germany. Each bottle was sealed with an hermetic membrane over glass stoppers, secured with kid leather or silk and adorned with silken ribbons, enhancing their appeal and exclusivity.

The covers of perfume boxes were opulently colored, embossed with intricate designs, or adorned with delicate gilt details. Luxury gift sets were housed in decorative cases crafted from silk, Moroccan leather, plush velvet, or leatherette. Lined with sumptuous silk, these cases cradled gleaming glass bottles containing precious extracts. Some gift boxes featured two or three bottles, possibly accompanied by soap or powder in matching scents. Their Art Nouveau-inspired designs rivaled the refinement of French counterparts, exemplifying the beauty of turn-of-the-century presentation sets.

In 1897, Mr. J.L. Grossmith emphasized the challenges of the perfumery trade, describing it as requiring immense art, care, and labor. He lamented the constant battle against competitors who produced inferior imitations of their creations, copying labels, designs, and bottle shapes. Grossmith cited examples with their Phul-Nana and Hasu-no-Hana perfumes, prompting legal action to protect their innovations despite the harm caused by such infringements.

Hasu-no-Hana had a complete line including face powder, toilet water, soaps, bath salts, dentifrice, sachet packets as well as breath sweeteners in a dainty tin called cachous, all meant to be used together. The sachets were advised to be sprinkled onto stationary, inside gloves and cabinets.

Pairing complementary products with popular perfumes in coordinated packaging enhances the shopping experience, encourages exploration of additional items, and boosts sales potential while elevating customer satisfaction. This approach not only adds a sense of luxury and completeness but also caters to consumers seeking a cohesive and well-rounded experience. For instance, Grossmith's perfumes like Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim, Hasu-no-Hana, and Tsang-Ihang were accompanied by a full range of ancillary products such as face powder, cream, hair lotion, brilliantine, toilet water, soaps, bath salts, dentifrice, sachet packets, and breath sweeteners, facilitating what we now call "layering" in fragrance application.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

2009 Reformulation & Relaunch:

 
Phul Nana was revived by the newly revived Grossmith perfumery in 2009 as part of their Classic Collection. From the Grossmith website:

"Originally created in 1891, this scent is a rare marriage of the herb garden with the flower garden, unusual in a feminine fragrance. It paved the way for the ‘modern’ fragrances that were to follow."

Phul-Nana is currently available in the following:

• 10ml Parfum Extract 
• 50ml Parfum Extract 
• 100ml Parfum Extract 
• 50ml Eau de Parfum Spray
• 100ml Eau de Parfum Spray

You can easily purchase all of these at their website. A stunning limited edition flacon in Baccarat crystal was also available.

 

 

The fragrance named "Phul-Nana" is Hindi for "lovely flower," and it absolutely embodies the essence of its name with a fresh and sweet floral composition. With aromatic fougère overtones and a soft, warm, woody base, Phul-Nana captivates the senses with its unique blend of herbal and floral notes. Its opening is bursting with the freshness of citrus, while its heart reveals narcotic tuberose, banana-like ylang ylang and the pungency of geranium. The base is a classic fougere accord, combining earthy woods underscored with balsamic notes of Siamese benzoin and vanilla from the tropical Bourbon isles.

Originally created in 1891, Grossmith notes that "Phul-Nana represents a rare marriage of the herb garden with the flower garden, a concept uncommon in feminine fragrances of its time." This innovative approach cleared the way for the "modern" fragrances that would follow," establishing Phul-Nana as a trailblazer in the world of perfumery.

With its timeless appeal and harmonious blend of aromatic and floral elements, Phul-Nana continues to enchant fragrance enthusiasts with its exquisite complexity and allure. As a celebration of nature's beauty and the artistry of perfumery, the newest version of Phul-Nana will remain a cherished classic, beloved by those who appreciate its timeless elegance.

The appearance of Phul-Nana in the popular television series Downton Abbey further adds to the brand's cultural significance and recognition, highlighting its timeless appeal and enduring legacy.

It is classified as a "fresh, sweet Floral composition with aromatic Fougère overtones on a soft, warm, woody base."

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, neroli
• Middle notes: geranium, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: patchouli, Siam benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, opoponax, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla