André Perugia

Perugia was established by André Perugia around 1924 at 11 rue de Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris. He is best known as one of the greatest custom footwear designers of the 20th century.

The perfumes of Perugia:

• 1924 Matin ("a very strong, insistent odor", or "very delicate and soft")
• 1924 Après Midi  (a sweet rose perfume)
• 1924 Soir (a heavy oriental sandalwood perfume)
• 1938 Atmosphere (a leather perfume, evoking the scent of Perugia's shoe salon)

The Oregon Statesman, 1927:

"A new and delightful set of perfumes has been created by Perugia of Paris. They have no name except the occasion they are made for - three in all - "pour le Matin - l'Apres Midi - le Soir" - the three division of the day. The perfume for the morning is very delicate and soft; for the afternoon it is still rather delicate, but a much sweeter odeur than can be perceived in the one of th morning - and the odeur of the evening is quite heavy though with just the tinge of the subtle Orient about it."

Bottles:

The Les Heures de Perugia was a presentation of three perfumes: Matin (Morning), Après Midi (Afternoon) and Soir (Evening). These perfumes are housed in various different bottles, but were commonly found in the stepped flacons emblazoned with the "AP" monogram in gold lettering. The "AP" logo for Andre Perugia was designed by Paul Iribe, who also designed the mother/daughter logo for Jeanne Lanvin and the "R" for Paul Poiret's Parfums Rosine.

The stepped bottles were designed by Charlotte Perriand, who also designed the furnishings inside Perugia's modernistic Parisian salon. The unusual stepped bottles were directly inspired by the shape of Perriand's distinctive display stands for Perugia's haute couture shoes. The bottle for Soir was of opaque jet black glass with a black stopper cover to represent the darkened night sky, the bottle for Matin was of frosted, colorless glass with a silvertone stopper cover which reminds one of the mists of the morning and the bottle for Apres Midi was of transparent, colorless glass with matching stopper cover, representing the clearness of day. 

The Vidette Messenger, 1929:

"Madame varies her lovely decorative bottles with some that are quite amusing. Les Heure de Perugia, for example, come in amusing step-like bottles, three in a set. Matin, a very strong, insistent odor - Apres Midi, a rose fragrance - and Soir, like sandalwood, make up one set of three."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"A haunting suggestion of leather appropriately pervades the shoemaker Perugia’s Atmosphere (at Saks-Fifth Avenue)."