Il Bacio by Princess Marcella Borghese c1993

Launched in 1993, Il Bacio—pronounced "eel bachee-o", and meaning "The Kiss" in Italian—embodies the sensuality and passion of its name. Created by Givaudan Roure, this fragrance was a bold yet elegant expression of the era, blending fruity florals with soft woody notes to create an unforgettable olfactory experience. The name itself evokes an intimate moment, a lingering embrace captured in scent, making Il Bacio a fitting tribute to romance and femininity.

Princess Marcella Borghese, a noblewoman of Italian descent, was renowned for her sophisticated taste and dedication to beauty. As a member of the illustrious Borghese family, her name carried connotations of aristocracy, refinement, and timeless elegance. While her earlier fragrance Di Borghese paid homage to her lineage, Il Bacio took a more personal approach, celebrating emotion, passion, and human connection rather than heritage alone. The phrase Il Bacio rolls off the tongue with a musical quality, conjuring visions of moonlit Italian villas, whispered confessions, and the fleeting, electrifying moment before a kiss.

The early 1990s marked a transitional period in perfumery. The excess and opulence of the 1980s, with its bold oriental and powerhouse floral fragrances, gave way to lighter, more radiant compositions. Fresh, fruity-floral fragrances like Il Bacio dominated the market, appealing to women who sought effortless sophistication rather than the dramatic intensity of the previous decade. The 1990s also embraced a newfound minimalism in fashion, with designers like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan championing clean lines and natural beauty. Il Bacio reflected this aesthetic, offering a scent that was vibrant yet soft, playful yet refined—a fragrance that felt equally at home on a silk slip dress or a crisp white button-down.

The composition of Il Bacio was sensory poetry, capturing the exhilaration of love’s first moments. The fragrance opened with an effervescent burst of citrus and freesia, mingling with the sweet nectar of honeysuckle, jasmine, and exotic orchid. At its heart, luscious melon, ripe plum, and juicy peach added a fruity vibrancy, enhancing the perfume’s sense of joyful spontaneity. The base, enriched with soft woods, provided a sensual warmth, ensuring the fragrance lingered like the memory of a stolen kiss.

Within the landscape of 1990s perfumery, Il Bacio was both of its time and timeless. While it followed the prevailing trend of fruity-floral compositions, it distinguished itself with its refined execution and emotional resonance. It wasn’t just another bright, cheerful fragrance—it was a love story in a bottle, inviting women to indulge in romance, passion, and the thrill of possibility.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Il Bacio by Princess Marcella Borghese is classified as a fresh fruity-floral fragrance for women. The heady anticipation of citrus, freesia, sweet honeysuckle, jasmine and exotic orchid meet in a fruity floral profusion of juicy melon, plum, orchid and succulent peach against soft woodsy notes. Capturing that moment when two lips are poised on the brink of change. Made with natural essences, Il Bacio caresses the skin...lingers on the senses.

• Top notes: Brazilian cattleya orchid, Grasse jasmine, Japanese honeysuckle, Grasse rose, South African freesia, Alpine lily of the valley, Calabrian bergamot, Italian mandarin and Sicilian lemon
• Middle notes: Chinese osmanthus absolute, Southeast Asian melon, Georgian peach, French cassis, Chilean plum, Polynesian passionfruit, North American pear, Grecian cyclamen and Florentine orris
• Base notes: spices, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Virginian cedar, Tibetan musk and Parma violet leaves

Scent Profile:

Il Bacio unfolds like an embrace—a moment of tenderness suspended in time, where fragrance lingers like the memory of a kiss. It begins with a luminous citrus radiance, where the finest Calabrian bergamot, Italian mandarin, and Sicilian lemon sparkle like golden sunlight dancing on Mediterranean waters. These citrus essences, cultivated in the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, are renowned for their vivid freshness, slightly tart yet sweetly effervescent, awakening the senses with their crisp vitality. Their brightness is softened by the delicate floralcy of South African freesia, a flower known for its clean, dewy scent, reminiscent of early morning mist. 

The intoxicating Brazilian cattleya orchid, a flower native to the lush rainforests, adds an exotic, creamy sweetness, while the Grasse jasmine and Grasse rose bring a touch of French sophistication, their velvety petals exuding an opulent, feminine warmth. The fragrance’s opening is further softened by the gentle sweetness of Japanese honeysuckle, a bloom revered for its honeyed nectar aroma, and the cool, green purity of Alpine lily of the valley, whispering freshness like a spring breeze.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart is a sumptuous blend of fruit and florals, each note bursting forth like a sun-ripened indulgence. Chinese osmanthus absolute, treasured for its apricot-like aroma with hints of tea and leather, provides a refined sweetness, weaving through the composition like golden threads of sunlight. The juicy Southeast Asian melon, with its cool, watery sweetness, mingles with the velvety softness of Georgian peach, lending a lush, sensual richness. 

The tart yet succulent French cassis, a dark berry renowned for its sophisticated balance of fruitiness and depth, adds a subtle sharpness that enhances the tropical juiciness of Polynesian passionfruit and the crisp ripeness of North American pear. At the heart’s most delicate point, Grecian cyclamen offers a slightly peppery freshness, while Florentine orris, extracted from the rhizomes of iris flowers, brings an earthy, powdery elegance that lingers like the memory of whispered words.

The base is an intimate and lingering warmth, a sensual undercurrent that grounds the luminous florals and juicy fruits in a comforting embrace. Mysore sandalwood, one of the most prized varieties in the world, exudes a soft, creamy woodiness that deepens the fragrance’s allure, intertwining seamlessly with the dry, slightly smoky elegance of Virginian cedar. 

Tibetan musk, with its velvety animalic depth, lends a hint of mysterious sensuality, while the golden glow of ambergris shimmers throughout the dry down, imparting a slightly salty, oceanic warmth that clings to the skin like silk. A whisper of Parma violet leaves brings a green, powdery nuance, enhancing the sophisticated softness of the final impression. Subtle spices flicker throughout, a fleeting warmth that lingers in the background, much like the imprint of a lover’s touch.

Each note in Il Bacio is a brushstroke in a masterpiece—a fragrance that captures the heady rush of romance, the fleeting intensity of passion, and the lingering tenderness of memory. It is both radiant and intimate, effervescent yet deeply sensual, encapsulating the moment before lips meet—the breathless anticipation, the electric connection, and the unspoken promise of what is to come.

 

Bottle:

The bottle of Il Bacio is more than a simple vessel for fragrance—it is a sculptural expression of love, desire, and the timeless romance of Italy. Designed by Marc Rosen, a master of fragrance bottle design, every element of its form and detail was carefully considered to embody the essence of a kiss. The most striking feature is its stopper, a gracefully intertwined knot inspired by an ancient Etruscan love-knot, a symbol of eternal devotion and unbreakable bonds. This historical reference anchors the fragrance in Italy’s rich artistic and cultural heritage, evoking a sense of enduring passion that transcends time.

The bottle itself exudes a fluid elegance, with a silhouette that feels both modern and classic—its soft curves and perfect balance mirroring the tender movement of lips meeting in a kiss. The glass distribution was meticulously refined to create a sense of weight and luxury, ensuring that each time the bottle is held, it offers a premium tactile experience. The smooth, rounded form is not just aesthetically pleasing; it invites touch, much like the affectionate caress of a lover’s hand.

The interplay of light and transparency in the glass enhances the romantic aura of Il Bacio. The way the liquid glows within, catching and refracting light, creates an almost luminous effect, reminiscent of the golden hues of an Italian sunset. This thoughtful design choice ties back to the fragrance’s inspiration—a kiss poised between the brightness of anticipation and the warmth of lingering emotion.

By drawing from ancient symbolism while maintaining a sleek and sophisticated modernity, Marc Rosen’s design for Il Bacio is a masterclass in storytelling through form. Every detail—from the love-knot stopper to the luxurious weight of the glass—works in harmony to capture the essence of romance, passion, and the ineffable magic of a kiss.

From Marc Rosen & Associates:

"Creative Challenge: How do you capture the spirit of a ‘kiss’? Metaphorically, of course. In our research we came across an ancient piece of Etruscan jewelry — a love-knot — which became the symbol (stopper) of this uniquely Italian fragrance. All design elements link back to Italy, and it’s rich design heritage. Special attention was paid to glass distribution to create a truly premium experience."

Product Line:

Il Bacio by Princess Marcella Borghese was not just a fragrance but an indulgent, multi-sensory experience, available in a carefully curated selection of products designed to envelop the wearer in luxury from head to toe. Each variation allowed for layering, ensuring that the scent lingered beautifully throughout the day and night, enhancing its emotional and olfactory impact.

The perfume was offered in two concentrations of pure parfum—0.25 oz and 1 oz—a rare and exquisite option for those who desired the most concentrated and long-lasting form of Il Bacio. These versions allowed the wearer to experience the fragrance in its richest, most opulent form, with the depth of its floral, fruity, and woody accords unfolding slowly on the skin like an intimate embrace.

For a more versatile and wearable interpretation, the fragrance was also available as an Eau de Parfum Spray, in 1.7 oz and 3.4 oz bottles. This formulation provided a lighter yet still luxurious concentration, perfect for everyday wear while retaining the elegance and complexity of the scent. The spray application allowed for effortless refreshment, making it an ideal companion for both daytime sophistication and evening allure.

Beyond the perfume itself, a collection of bath and body products extended the sensory experience, turning daily rituals into moments of indulgence. The 8.54 oz Bath & Shower Gel infused the skin with the delicate scent of Il Bacio, transforming an ordinary bath into an immersive spa-like escape. The addition of luxurious body lotions, in 4 oz and 8.54 oz sizes, provided silky hydration while leaving a lingering trail of fragrance, perfect for those who preferred a subtler scent application.

For those who desired an extra touch of moisture and scent infusion, the 3 oz Body Conditioning Spray Oil offered a rich yet lightweight mist, leaving the skin soft, glowing, and beautifully perfumed. The 5.3 oz Body Crème, with its decadently thick texture, provided a deeply nourishing experience, ideal for locking in fragrance and moisture. Lastly, the 4.5 oz Luxury Bath Bar added an elegant touch to the bathing ritual, cleansing the skin while imparting the delicate, sophisticated scent of Il Bacio. 

Also available was a beautiful shade of red Borghese lipstick dubbed Il Bacio Red.

Each product in the Il Bacio line was thoughtfully designed to enhance the fragrance’s presence in daily life, allowing wearers to fully immerse themselves in its romantic, sensuous embrace. Whether through a delicate mist of parfum, the caress of scented lotion, or the warmth of a fragrant bath, Il Bacio was more than just a perfume—it was a luxurious olfactory journey.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Over time, Il Bacio has undergone reformulation, a fate that has befallen many beloved fragrances. As industry regulations and ingredient sourcing have changed, several key elements of the original composition have vanished, altering the scent in a way that longtime wearers cannot help but notice. The loss of certain natural essences has resulted in a modern version that lacks the depth, vibrancy, and emotional resonance of the original formulation.

Most notably, the absence of Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and Italian mandarin has diminished the luminous citrus opening that once gave Il Bacio its signature sparkle. These sun-kissed Mediterranean fruits, prized for their effervescent brightness and nuanced complexity, originally lent the fragrance an invigorating first impression, a radiant prelude that has now faded. Without them, the introduction feels flatter, missing the crisp, golden shimmer that once made the perfume feel like the first light of dawn.

The loss of French cassis and Chinese osmanthus absolute has further altered the scent’s evolution. Cassis, or blackcurrant, contributed a deep, tangy richness, adding both a tart fruitiness and a hint of green sharpness. Meanwhile, osmanthus—one of the most treasured floral absolutes—brought a luscious, apricot-like smoothness and an almost leathery warmth to the heart of the fragrance. These elements once bridged the transition between the fresh top notes and the indulgent floral heart, and without them, the perfume feels less dimensional, less alive.

Gone, too, is North American pear, which once imparted a crisp, dewy sweetness, and Grecian cyclamen, a delicate floral with an airy, almost watery freshness. Their absence means the fragrance no longer possesses the same buoyant, dewy lightness that once made it feel so effortlessly elegant. The Brazilian cattleya orchid, a rare and exotic floral that contributed a creamy, almost tropical nuance, has also vanished, leaving a void where there was once a lush, velvety bloom.

Even deeper within the fragrance, the loss of Florentine orris and Parma violet leaves is perhaps the most profound change. These two ingredients lent Il Bacio its unmistakable powdery, sophisticated depth, adding a whisper of vintage elegance to balance the fruit and florals. Orris, distilled from iris root, is one of perfumery’s most precious and time-intensive ingredients, renowned for its soft, buttery texture and earthy floralcy. Its absence has left the base feeling less luxurious, less refined. Violet leaves, with their subtle green, slightly metallic freshness, once contributed an elegant counterpoint to the sweetness of the floral notes. Without them, the composition feels warmer but lacks the cool, sophisticated edge that once gave Il Bacio its distinctive charm.

While the reformulated version still carries echoes of its former beauty, it lacks the soulful complexity and radiant balance that made the original Il Bacio unforgettable. To those who wore it in its earliest years, the new formula feels like a faded photograph—a memory of something extraordinary, now softened and blurred by time.

• Top notes: freesia, honeysuckle, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
• Middle notes: melon, peach, plum and passionfruit
• Base notes: musk, amber, sandalwood and Virginia cedar