Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese c1965

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese, launched in 1965, emerged at a time when the world was experiencing profound cultural shifts. The early 1960s were marked by the rise of youth culture, an era defined by bold new ideas in fashion, art, and music. The 1960s saw a departure from the formality of the previous decade, embracing a sense of freedom and exploration. As women moved away from the more conservative styles of the 1950s, fashion became more experimental, with the mod look and youthful energy dominating the scene. In the fragrance world, oriental and floral compositions were gaining popularity, reflecting the era's fascination with exoticism, sensuality, and the allure of the East.

Princess Marcella Borghese, a member of the Italian aristocracy, was no stranger to luxury and elegance, and her perfume collections were a testament to her refined taste. Her decision to name this fragrance "Fiamma" (Italian for "flame") was a perfect reflection of the perfume’s character. Pronounced "fee-AH-ma", the word evokes images of warmth, passion, and intensity—qualities that mirror the power of fire itself. The name conjures the image of something vibrant, flickering, and alive, embodying a fierce sensuality. The emotional connotation of “Fiamma” calls to mind something dynamic and forceful, yet also beautiful in its evanescence. It would resonate with women who desired a fragrance as captivating and multifaceted as they were, one that burned with intensity but was always graceful.

In Italian, the word Fiamma carries a figurative meaning beyond its literal translation of "flame" or "blaze." It also refers to a "lover" or "mistress," evoking the intense and passionate nature of a romantic relationship. This dual meaning parallels the English expression "old flame," which refers to a past lover who still stirs feelings of warmth and nostalgia. In this context, Fiamma becomes a metaphor for a love that burns with fervor, perhaps fleeting but unforgettable, embodying both the excitement and the lingering memory of an intense, fiery romance. This emotional depth adds a layer of complexity to the fragrance, making it not just a scent but a symbol of passionate encounters and unforgettable connections.

Launched in 1965, Fiamma arrived in the midst of a period known for its fascination with both the ancient and the modern, where cultural exploration and the embrace of Eastern influences were prominent. The 1960s was a time when the floriental scent family, blending floral and oriental notes, began to capture the attention of fragrance connoisseurs. Feminine, sensual, and sophisticated, this combination became increasingly sought after in the perfume market, aligning perfectly with the trends of the time. Women of the period were embracing their independence and sensuality, and Fiamma appealed to those who wanted a fragrance that was both alluring and complex, offering an aura of elegance and mystery.

The scent of Fiamma would have been interpreted as an exotic, captivating blend of the East meeting the West. With its floral oriental classification, it features a sophisticated, warm blend of exotic flowers, sweet woods, spices, and other far Eastern essences. This fragrance was not heavy or overwhelming but rather delicately layered, offering a sense of refinement and warmth. It was a perfume for women who desired to evoke the intense energy of a flame while maintaining an air of mystery and sophistication. At the time, many perfumes leaned toward the heavier, more powdery florals, so Fiamma stood apart with its modern, lighter interpretation of oriental notes, blending spicy warmth with the elegance of florals.

In the context of the broader perfume landscape of the 1960s, Fiamma was part of a growing trend toward more exotic, sensual fragrances, but it distinguished itself by being lighter and more wearable than some of its contemporaries. While others, like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent or Shalimar by Guerlain, would lean heavily into the spicy-oriental genre, Fiamma offered a more refined take on the same idea, making it an appealing option for women who preferred an exotic fragrance that was still approachable and not too overpowering. In essence, Fiamma captured the spirit of the 1960s—sensual, bold, yet graceful—and remains a beloved example of a time when perfumery was embracing both modernity and tradition.

The Fiamma fragrance, introduced by Princess Marcella Borghese in 1965, quickly garnered attention for its vibrant and fiery composition. According to Town & Country (Volume 119, 1965), the fragrance was designed to capture the essence of a woman’s personality, combining woody notes, floral elements, and a potent warmth from spices. The name “Fiamma,” meaning “flame” in Italian, perfectly reflected this blend of heat and intensity. The magazine playfully noted that a spray of Fiamma would not extinguish fires, but rather fuel them, highlighting its passionate and evocative nature.

The word Fiamma itself, as Vogue (1966) observed, connoted heat, blaze, and fervor, all of which were embodied in the perfume’s fiery, sophisticated character. The name was a fitting choice for a fragrance that promised to captivate the senses and spark desire, making it an unmistakable statement of confidence and allure. The perfume was launched with an Acqua di Profumo version, providing a lighter yet still captivating expression of this powerful fragrance.

The allure of Fiamma extended beyond its fragrance. In Harper’s Bazaar (1967), the packaging was described as being inspired by Carrara marble, an iconic material known for its purity and timeless elegance. The bottles, housed in marbleized packaging, reflected the Romanesque charm of the perfume itself, adding to its sophisticated appeal. Inside, the fragrance remained the star, with Fiamma positioned as a “fiery brilliancy” that was both feminine and refined, perfect for the modern woman.

In House & Garden (1968), the appeal of Fiamma extended into home décor with the introduction of a Fiamma-scented candle. Presented in a sculpted white ceramic holder, it furthered the idea of Fiamma as a symbol of sensuality and sophistication, seamlessly blending into the world of luxury home goods. The candle’s elegant design and alluring scent made it a perfect addition to any vanity or dressing table.

Finally, the Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office (1972) formally recognized the Fiamma name as a trademark for Princess Marcella Borghese’s signature fragrance line, encompassing perfume, perfume oil, toilet water, bath oil, and dusting powder. This designation further cemented Fiamma’s status as an iconic and enduring fragrance, representing both the passionate spirit of its wearer and the refined elegance of its royal creator.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. A sophisticated, light oriental with a warm blend of exotic flowers, sweet woods, spices and other far eastern essences.

• Top notes: Italian orange blossom, Peruvian heliotrope, Tuscan violet, Dutch hyacinth, Calabrian bergamot and Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Ceylon cardamom, Russian coriander, Malabar black pepper, Aleppo pepper, French carnation, Vietnamese cinnamon, Zanzibar clove, Jamaican nutmeg, Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, 
• Base notes: Tyrolean oakmoss, Siamese benzoin, Tahitian vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, Singapore patchouli, Lebanese cedar, Tibetan musk, Java vetiver, Maltese labdanum

Scent Profile:

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese opens with an intoxicating rush of bright, citrusy sweetness, as Italian orange blossom greets your senses with its delicate, yet powerful, fragrance. The orange blossom from Italy, known for its fresh, ethereal quality, is a beloved ingredient in perfumery, prized for its ability to blend seamlessly with other notes while adding an element of warmth and joy. It is joined by Peruvian heliotrope, with its soft, almond-like sweetness and subtle hints of vanilla and cherry. 

The heliotrope’s sweetness is balanced by the vibrant, powdery floral of Tuscan violet, which adds a green, leafy freshness, evoking the delicate beauty of flowers thriving in the Tuscan countryside. The Dutch hyacinth intensifies the bouquet with its rich, heady floral aroma, reminiscent of spring gardens in full bloom. The sparkling, fresh top notes are rounded out by Calabrian bergamot, an Italian citrus that is at once zesty and sweet, offering a crisp, uplifting start to the fragrance, and the sharp, resinous quality of Persian galbanum, whose green, herbal scent sets a grounding contrast, adding depth to the lighter notes.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes unfold like an exotic spice market in full swing. The warm, aromatic scent of Ceylon cardamom mingles with the cool, citrusy bite of Russian coriander, both of which add an intricate, piquant layer to the composition. The presence of Malabar black pepper and Aleppo pepper introduces a fiery, spicy warmth that fans the embers of the fragrance’s “flame,” a perfect complement to the fragrance's name. The peppery warmth is tempered by the sweet, slightly clove-like scent of French carnation, which adds a touch of old-world elegance to the composition. 

Vietnamese cinnamon follows with its rich, spicy-sweet warmth, while Zanzibar clove introduces a deeper, more resinous aspect to the spice blend. A dash of Jamaican nutmeg further enhances the exotic warmth, giving the fragrance an opulent, rich texture. The floral heart of the fragrance is completed with the luscious, velvety notes of Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine, both of which elevate the scent with their classic, rich, and highly coveted floral qualities. The Grasse region in France is renowned for producing some of the finest roses and jasmine in the world, their blossoms imparting a depth and complexity that is second to none in perfumery.

As the scent settles into its base, the earthy, woody, and resinous notes come to the forefront. Tyrolean oakmoss, with its deep, damp, and slightly leathery aroma, provides a rich, forest-like foundation that evokes the misty, cool forests of the Tyrolean Alps. Siamese benzoin adds a resinous sweetness, with a balsamic and vanilla-like fragrance that enriches the warmth of the base. Tahitian vanilla enters with its creamy, sweet warmth, adding a smooth, comforting depth to the fragrance. The woody, creamy richness of Mysore sandalwood creates a luxurious, soft finish, its Indian origin giving it an unmatched smoothness and depth, beloved in perfumery for its enduring, calming quality. 

Singapore patchouli adds an earthy, slightly smoky layer that grounds the fragrance with its dark, herbal undertones, making it resonate like the depth of an ancient forest. Lebanese cedar, with its dry, woody, and slightly resinous character, evokes the towering cedars of Lebanon, adding a solid, earthy backbone to the composition. Tibetan musk imparts a soft, animalic warmth, deepening the sensual aspect of the fragrance, while Java vetiver brings a fresh, green, and smoky edge, adding a final layer of depth. Finally, Maltese labdanum, with its amber-like richness and warm, slightly leathery scent, envelops the fragrance in a soft, resinous glow, bringing the entire composition to a satisfying, luxurious finish.

In its entirety, Fiamma is an intricate, opulent blend of floral, spicy, and woody elements, drawing on both the richness of the East and the elegance of the West. It evokes images of passionate flames and exotic, sun-drenched landscapes, making it a fragrance that feels both timeless and deeply connected to the natural world. The sophisticated balance of exotic flowers, spices, and deep woody resins makes Fiamma a truly unique creation, a fragrance that resonates with intensity and elegance.

Product Line:

 

The Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese product line was designed to offer a complete fragrance experience, with a variety of options that allowed wearers to indulge in different ways, each capturing the essence of the fragrance in its own unique form. This comprehensive line catered to those who desired to envelop themselves in the warm, sensual aura of Fiamma from head to toe.

The Parfum (Profumo), the most concentrated and luxurious form, offered an intense, long-lasting scent that stayed close to the skin, providing an intimate experience of the fragrance. In its purest form, this perfume allowed the wearer to experience Fiamma’s sophisticated blend of exotic flowers, sweet woods, and spices with the deepest intensity. 

The Perfume Oil, another concentrated option, was a smooth, sensual alternative to the traditional spray. The oil allowed for a more controlled application and gave a richer, closer-to-the-skin scent, ideal for layering or enhancing the fragrance’s longevity throughout the day.

For those who preferred a lighter, more refreshing touch, Fiamma was also available in an Eau de Parfum Splash to be used liberally on the body and the Eau de Parfum Spray, which offered a delicate mist of the fragrance that could be generously applied. 

The Natural Spray Cologne (Acqua di Profumo) was a lighter, more refreshing version of the fragrance, perfect for casual wear or as a spritz during the day for a subtle but constant presence. The Cologne Splash was similarly refreshing, with a slightly more invigorating feel, offering an easy way to reapply throughout the day while enjoying a burst of Fiamma’s floral oriental scent.

 

For a more elegant, portable option, the Solid Perfume Compact provided a chic and discreet way to carry the fragrance wherever one went. This compact form allowed for a precise, personal touch of perfume, ideal for touch-ups on the go. 

The Dusting Powder, with its soft, luxurious texture, offered a fragrant way to pamper the skin after bathing, leaving behind a gentle, lingering scent of Fiamma. 

Finally, the Milk Bath provided a soothing, indulgent experience that enveloped the body in the comforting, exotic notes of Fiamma while providing the nourishing properties of a luxurious bath soak.

Together, the Fiamma product line offered a full spectrum of fragrance experiences, catering to a variety of preferences, and ensuring that wearers could enjoy the elegant, fiery warmth of this floral oriental fragrance in a way that best suited their lifestyle.

Bottles:

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fiamma by Princess Marcella Borghese made its debut in 1965, entering the perfume market with a striking blend of exotic florals, spices, and woody elements that immediately captivated fragrance enthusiasts. The year 1965 marked a period of cultural transformation, as the world saw the rise of new trends in fashion, art, and music. In the realm of perfumery, the 1960s were characterized by bold, complex scents that balanced the opulence of oriental perfumes with the freshness of floral notes. Fiamma fit right into this era of elegance, offering a sophisticated and alluring fragrance that appealed to the modern woman seeking something exotic yet refined.

Despite its initial success, the perfume was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. The discontinuation of Fiamma came as a surprise to many, considering its popularity and the prestigious image that surrounded the Princess Marcella Borghese brand, known for its luxurious and timeless appeal. However, Fiamma's influence remained notable, as it continued to be available in select stores even as late as 1991, when its distinctive, fiery character still resonated with fragrance lovers.

The longevity of Fiamma's availability well into the 1980s speaks to the lasting impact the fragrance had. It was a perfume ahead of its time, blending warmth, sensuality, and sophistication in a way that remained relevant even as trends in perfumery began to shift. The fragrance's continued presence on the market during the 1990s underscores how Fiamma held a special place in the hearts of those who appreciated its refined elegance and bold, spicy undertones. Although it may no longer be found in stores today, Fiamma remains a testament to the allure of mid-20th century perfumes, its name still evoking the warmth and passion of its original vision.