Di Borghese by Princess Marcella Borghese c1978

Launched in 1978, Di Borghese by Princess Marcella Borghese was more than just a fragrance—it was an embodiment of Italian aristocratic refinement and timeless sophistication. The name itself, "Di Borghese," is deeply rooted in legacy and prestige. The phrase is Italian, pronounced dee bor-GAY-zeh, and translates to "of Borghese" or "belonging to Borghese." This choice of name directly tied the fragrance to Princess Marcella Borghese, the noblewoman who founded the Borghese cosmetics and fragrance brand.

Princess Marcella Borghese was a member of the illustrious Borghese family, a lineage dating back to the 16th century, known for its deep cultural and artistic contributions to Italy. A symbol of grace, sophistication, and luxury, the princess became a beauty entrepreneur, collaborating with Revlon to develop high-end skincare and cosmetics. Her vision was to translate the elegance of Italian nobility into accessible beauty rituals, and her fragrance creations were no exception.

By naming the perfume Di Borghese, she was not only reinforcing the family’s heritage but also inviting women to experience a piece of aristocratic Italian glamour. The name evoked images of grand palazzos, Renaissance art, sculpted gardens, and the effortless refinement of Italian noblewomen. It was a fragrance designed for a woman who appreciated history, beauty, and prestige. The fragrance emerged during the late 1970s, a period marked by a transition from the bohemian, free-spirited aesthetic of the early decade to the power dressing and luxury consciousness of the 1980s. This was a time when elegance and sophistication were making a resurgence.

Fashion reflected this shift—soft silhouettes of the early ‘70s gave way to sharper tailoring, structured blazers, and an increasing emphasis on wealth and status. Designers such as Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, and Valentino embraced opulence, draped fabrics, and a return to refined femininity. Fragrance trends followed suit, moving away from the earthy, heavy scents of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s toward compositions that balanced chypre sophistication, green freshness, and floral opulence.

Women of this period were beginning to embrace dual identities—the grace of traditional femininity and the power of the emerging career woman. Di Borghese would have appealed to a woman who valued elegance, but with a quiet strength—perhaps someone who admired the timeless refinement of Grace Kelly, the poise of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, or the polished glamour of Sophia Loren. The name itself carried a sense of prestige and exclusivity, making it feel like an invitation into a world of aristocratic luxury. Wearing Di Borghese would have been an act of self-expression, a way of aligning oneself with an elevated sense of beauty and status.

The fragrance was classified as a green floral chypre, a category known for its classic sophistication and timeless appeal. The structure of Di Borghese was as refined as its name, beginning with a fresh, verdant green top note, evoking the crispness of Italian gardens after a morning rain. This opening was followed by an exotic floral heart, rich with rare spices, adding depth and intrigue. The base rested on warm, woody, and powdery undertones, ensuring an air of understated sensuality.

The chypre classification was significant—it signaled a refined, complex composition, often associated with couture elegance rather than fleeting trends. The green notes were particularly evocative, suggesting freshness, vitality, and a connection to nature, while the floral and woody elements provided a sense of luxury and enduring femininity. The late 1970s saw a revival of chypre fragrances, with perfumes such as Estée Lauder’s Aliage (1972) and Givenchy’s Givenchy III (1970) paving the way for more green, sophisticated scents. At the same time, floral and spicy notes were gaining prominence, as seen in Opium (1977) by Yves Saint Laurent and Paloma Picasso’s 1984 fragrance that would soon follow.

Di Borghese fit into this evolving landscape by combining the crisp greenness of early ‘70s trends with the refined floral and woody elements that would define the powerful, feminine scents of the 1980s. It was both classic and forward-thinking, appealing to women who desired a fragrance that was elegant but not overpowering, refined yet full of depth.

In many ways, Di Borghese was the perfect olfactory representation of Princess Marcella Borghese’s vision—a fragrance that was at once sophisticated, aristocratic, and deeply feminine. It invited women to embrace the elegance of Italian nobility, offering a scent that was as polished, poised, and enduring as the Borghese name itself. Today, though long discontinued, it remains a cherished memory of an era where fragrance was an extension of one’s identity—graceful, confident, and infinitely refined.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Di Borghese by Princess Marcella Borghese is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women.  A sophisticated floral blend with woody undertones and a gentle fresh green top note. It starts with a fresh verdant green top, followed by an exotic floral heart punctuated with rare spices, resting on a warm, woody, powdery base.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, green notes, Moroccan spearmint, Italian mandarin, Sicilian lemon, Georgian peach and Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Dutch hyacinth, Grasse jasmine, Egyptian narcissus, Zanzibar clove, Turkish rose, French carnation, Israeli cyclamen, orchid, Florentine orris, Manila ylang ylang, and Alpine lily of the valley.
• Base notes: Siamese benzoin, Virginia cedar, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss and spices

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Di Borghese is an immediate breath of verdant, sunlit freshness, where nature awakens with a lively, dewy green vibrance. The citrus-kissed opening is dominated by the zesty brilliance of Calabrian bergamot, a prized variety from Italy’s southernmost tip, where the Mediterranean sun and mineral-rich soil yield a bergamot oil of unparalleled brightness—less sharp than its Sicilian cousin, with a delicate floral nuance that softens its tangy effervescence. This citrus luminescence intertwines with the succulent, honeyed nectar of Georgian peach, a variety celebrated for its juiciness, balancing tartness with an almost velvety sweetness.

In contrast, the piercing green sharpness of Persian galbanum emerges, a rare resin distilled from the high plateaus of Iran, exuding an almost wild, untamed verdancy—raw, slightly bitter, and deeply resinous, lending an earthy intensity that anchors the citrus exuberance. The crisp, peppery coolness of Moroccan spearmint dances on the periphery, its herbal facets adding a surprising burst of freshness, not sharp like peppermint but subtly green and invigorating. The soft, golden sweetness of Italian mandarin smooths the sharper edges, its juicy warmth hinting at the luscious florals yet to come. Finally, the unmistakable brightness of Sicilian lemon, renowned for its sharp, crystalline purity, cuts through with a radiant, sunlit clarity, elevating the entire composition to a luminous opening.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart notes bloom in a lush, intoxicating bouquet of exotic florals, each note revealing layers of depth and intricacy. The Dutch hyacinth, a cultivated treasure from the Netherlands, unfurls its waxy, opulent scent, dense with green and almost aquatic undertones. It merges with the luxurious Grasse jasmine, hand-harvested in the early morning hours of Provence, its scent richer and creamier than any other jasmine in the world, diffusing an almost narcotic floral opulence. The Egyptian narcissus, its wild, honeyed, and slightly indolic character, weaves seamlessly with the creamy softness of Manila ylang-ylang, a flower dripping with tropical, almost banana-like richness that adds sensuality to the composition.

The delicate Turkish rose, cultivated for centuries in the valleys of Isparta, exudes a velvety, full-bodied depth—both fresh and deeply romantic—while the powdery sweetness of French carnation imparts a peppery, clove-like warmth that enhances the spiced facets of the blend. And then, the unmistakable clove itself—Zanzibar clove, grown on the sun-drenched islands off the coast of East Africa, imparts a smoky, almost fiery depth, its presence adding warmth and intrigue to the floral heart. The ethereal beauty of Israeli cyclamen lends a light, almost dewy airiness, while Alpine lily of the valley, crisp and green, dances at the edges like a whisper of fresh spring air. Finally, Florentine orris, one of the rarest and most precious floral notes in perfumery, adds a buttery, powdery softness, its violet-like aroma elevating the florals with an aristocratic, elegant smoothness.

As Di Borghese dries down, a warm and opulent base emerges, wrapping the florals in a sensual, lasting embrace. The smoky-sweet richness of Siamese benzoin, with its soft vanilla-like warmth, blends effortlessly with the creamy, resinous smoothness of Mysore sandalwood, sourced from the heart of India—coveted for its unparalleled depth, softer and more buttery than any other sandalwood in the world. The grounding Virginia cedar, dry and pencil-sharp, imparts an elegant woodiness that contrasts with the animalic sensuality of Tibetan musk, raw yet sophisticated, lending a skin-like warmth to the blend.

A whisper of ambergris, the elusive and legendary marine treasure, adds an almost salty, sun-warmed skin quality—ethereal, mysterious, and subtly erotic. The final touch, the deep and earthy Yugoslavian oakmoss, anchors the composition in a profoundly classic chypre elegance, its damp, forest-like depth evoking the feeling of ancient wooded estates after a summer rain, blending seamlessly with an enigmatic tapestry of rare spices.

In its entirety, Di Borghese is a fragrance of graceful complexity and noble refinement, weaving the radiance of Mediterranean citrus, the intoxicating depth of the world’s finest florals, and the stately richness of time-honored woods and resins into an olfactory tapestry fit for royalty. It is a scent that lingers like a whispered secret, a timeless tribute to beauty, legacy, and feminine power.

Product Line:

The Di Borghese fragrance line was designed to offer a complete, luxurious scent experience, allowing wearers to indulge in its sophisticated chypre floral essence through a range of concentrations and complementary body products. The variety of formats catered to different preferences, from the most concentrated and intimate parfum formulations to the lighter and refreshing cologne options, ensuring that the fragrance could be worn for any occasion and at any intensity.

The Parfum Vivant was available in multiple sizes, including the 1/4 oz refillable spray sterling silver  purse flacon, a chic and portable option for reapplication throughout the day,retailed for $200 in 1978. A 1/4 oz traditional flacon, a 1/3 oz touch-on version, a 1/2 oz bottle, and a full 1 oz presentation provided options for those who preferred the richness and depth of pure parfum. These highly concentrated versions allowed for a long-lasting, intimate sillage, as the fragrance developed in harmony with the wearer’s skin.

For those who desired a more effervescent and airy expression, the Cologne Vivant was introduced in a range of formats. The 1/4 oz spray and the 1/2 oz Automatique Spray (a purse-size edition introduced in 1983) provided convenient options for on-the-go application, while the larger 1 oz and 2 oz Automatique Sprays, along with the 2 oz splash bottle, allowed for more liberal use. The cologne versions maintained the fragrance’s signature elegance but in a brighter, lighter concentration, making them ideal for daytime wear.

By 1984, the fragrance line expanded further with the introduction of the 1.25 oz Eau de Parfum Natural Spray, offering a perfect balance between the richness of the parfum and the freshness of the cologne. This concentration delivered a moderate intensity, making it a versatile choice for both day and evening wear.

To enhance the experience of Di Borghese, a curated selection of bath and body products was also introduced, allowing the fragrance to be layered for a more immersive and long-lasting effect. The Parfum Vivant Body Silk, a luxurious perfumed body lotion, provided hydration and a delicate veil of scent, ensuring the fragrance lingered on the skin throughout the day. 

The Parfum Vivant Milk Bath, a foaming, scented bath milk, transformed an ordinary soak into an indulgent, spa-like ritual, enveloping the wearer in its elegant floral chypre aroma.

For those who preferred the tactile pleasure of a powdery finish, Poudre Vivant, a perfumed dusting powder, added a velvety, fragrant touch to the skin, perfect for layering with the parfum or cologne.

Completing the collection, the Savon Vivant, a set of luxurious perfumed soap cakes, infused the daily cleansing ritual with the fragrance’s signature elegance, ensuring that the wearer could enjoy the scent in every aspect of their beauty routine.

The Di Borghese product line was meticulously designed to offer a full sensory experience, from the opulence of its concentrated parfums to the refreshing elegance of its colognes, and the decadence of its scented body care products. This comprehensive approach to fragrance allowed women to fully embrace the aristocratic sophistication and timeless beauty that "Di Borghese" evoked, making it more than just a perfume—it was an immersive expression of refined luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Di Borghese was introduced in 1978, a time when bold, sophisticated fragrances were in vogue, reflecting the elegance and refinement of the era. With its green floral chypre composition, it embodied the luxurious and aristocratic essence of the Borghese name, offering a fragrance that was both timeless and distinctive. Though its exact discontinuation date remains unknown, it was still available for purchase in 1994, indicating its lasting appeal and dedicated following. Over the years, as trends shifted and the fragrance market evolved, Di Borghese eventually faded from production, becoming a sought-after relic for collectors and fragrance enthusiasts who appreciate its refined, classically Italian olfactory signature.

 

At some point, most likely during the 1980s, Di Borghese Al Fresco, a light, summery fragrance was offered as a limited edition.