Mistigri by Jacques Griffe c1953

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, launched in 1953, is a fragrance that carries with it a name rich in cultural and emotional significance. The word "Mistigri" is French and is often associated with the image of a mischievous, playful cat. The term originates from the French language, where "Mistigri" or "Mistou" is a colloquial name for a cat, particularly one that is endearing, cunning, or even a little mysterious. The name has been used in French literature and popular culture, sometimes as a character name, depicting a creature or a person with a playful yet elusive nature. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards.

Jacques Griffe's choice of the name Mistigri for his 1953 fragrance suggests a deliberate evocation of these characteristics. The image of a cat, with its grace, mystery, and playful unpredictability, aligns with the nature of the fragrance itself—a spicy green composition designed for women. The fragrance likely intended to capture a sense of feminine allure that is both captivating and a little enigmatic, much like a cat that one cannot fully understand or predict. The name "Mistigri" would evoke feelings of intrigue, charm, and subtle seduction, making it a fitting and unique name for a perfume.

The choice of such a name also aligns with the broader context of the early 1950s, a time when the world was emerging from the austerity of the post-war period and beginning to embrace a new sense of glamour, sophistication, and freedom. The 1950s saw the rise of more adventurous and bold fragrances, as women sought to express themselves in ways that had been restrained during the war years. Mistigri, with its spicy green notes, would have stood out as a unique and daring choice, offering something different from the more traditional floral or powdery scents that had dominated earlier decades.

In the context of other fragrances on the market at the time, Mistigri could be seen as both aligning with and diverging from the trends. The early 1950s was a period marked by a growing interest in more complex, multi-dimensional fragrances that combined floral notes with deeper, spicier, or woodier accords. Mistigri fits this trend with its spicy green composition, yet the specific blend of notes and the playful, feline-inspired name set it apart as a distinctive offering. While many fragrances of the era aimed to evoke a sense of classic elegance, Mistigri might have appealed to women who wanted to express a more playful, independent, and slightly mysterious side of their personality.

In literary references, characters named Mistigri often embody a playful or cunning nature, adding another layer of meaning to the fragrance. This association would have added a cultural depth to the perfume, making it not just a scent, but a statement of identity and style. Mistigri as a fragrance name would have been interpreted as chic, sophisticated, and intriguingly different—a reflection of a woman who is confident in her individuality and unafraid to embrace her more enigmatic qualities.

In summary, Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, with its spicy green profile, would have been a unique addition to the perfume landscape of the early 1950s, offering a scent that was as playful and mysterious as the name suggests, and perfectly in tune with the evolving tastes and attitudes of the time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Mistigri by Jacques Griffe is classified as a spicy green fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Tuscan violet leaf, Italian basil, Persian galbanum, Spanish rosemary, green note, Hungarian clary sage, Calabrian bergamot, Paraguayan petitgrain, Provencal lavender
• Middle notes: Malabar pepper, Zanzibar clove, Saigon cinnamon, cumin, Jamaican nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Dutch narcissus, Nossi-Be ylang ylang
• Base notes: Yugoslavian oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, ambergris, Java vetiver, Tibetan musk, Mexican vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, resins

In 1955, Harper's Bazaar described Mistigri by Jacques Griffe as "gay and mischievous," a reflection not only of the fragrance itself but of the playful spirit embodied in its name. Mistigri — a French term affectionately referring to a clever, impish cat — conjures images of a sleek feline, eyes glinting with mischief, darting gracefully through moonlit Parisian streets. This characterization captures the heart of the fragrance: lively, spirited, and impossible to ignore. The scent’s green, spicy vibrancy mirrors that feline agility — light on its feet, but with an undeniable presence.

By 1957, Cue magazine remarked on the growing competition among couturiers venturing into perfumery, noting Griffe’s bold entry with Mistigri. The playful interpretation of the name, simply stated as "cat," highlights the blend’s dual nature: soft and alluring yet brimming with energy and independence. Like the namesake creature, the fragrance beckons with an inviting warmth, only to reveal an untamable edge.

In Fodor's France, 1958, Mistigri found its place among Griffe's trio of standout fragrances, alongside Griffonage and Grilou. The guidebook praised these scents as "warm, tenacious, and youthful" — a fitting tribute to Mistigri's spirited longevity. Tenacity seems an especially apt descriptor, reflecting not only the fragrance’s lasting power on the skin but its enduring charm. It’s a scent that lingers like a fond memory, warm yet ever so slightly mischievous, as if daring you to chase it.

Over a decade later, Fodor's France revisited Jacques Griffe’s creations in 1970, reaffirming Mistigri’s staying power by labeling it once more as "tenacious." In a rapidly changing world of fashion and fragrance, where new trends often eclipsed the old, Mistigri held fast. Its green, spicy heart and richly resinous base remained an emblem of sophistication and playful defiance — a fragrance that refused to be forgotten, much like the mythical cat for which it was named.

Scent Profile:

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe unfolds like a journey through lush gardens and bustling spice markets, each ingredient painting an olfactory portrait with vivid strokes of geography and scent. Classified as a spicy green fragrance, it’s a vibrant, textured composition that marries crisp verdancy with warm, exotic spices and a deep, resinous base — a tapestry woven from the earth’s most aromatic treasures.

The fragrance opens with a burst of Tuscan violet leaf, fresh and green, carrying a faint, almost cucumber-like coolness — a whisper of early morning dew on a Mediterranean hillside. Italian basil follows, its peppery sweetness cutting through the air, blending with the piercing, bitter brightness of Persian galbanum, a resin that lends an unmistakable sharp, green bite. Spanish rosemary weaves through with its herbal, almost pine-like clarity, tempered by a general green note that holds everything in balance. The herbaceous depth continues with Hungarian clary sage, warm and musky, yet soft, wrapping around the sparkling citrus of Calabrian bergamot — a variety prized for its complex, floral sweetness, far smoother and more nuanced than other bergamots. Paraguayan petitgrain, distilled from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree, adds a woody-citrus touch, grounding the top notes before Provencal lavender unfurls, soothing and clean, evoking sun-drenched fields rippling with purple blooms under the southern French sky.

The heart of Mistigri is an intoxicating dance of spices and florals. Malabar pepper, sourced from India’s southwestern coast, lends a brisk, slightly smoky bite, its warmth curling into Zanzibar clove, sweet and fiery, tinged with a medicinal sharpness. The heat continues with Saigon cinnamon, rich and warm, more potent than its cassia cousins, blending seamlessly with the earthy depth of cumin. Jamaican nutmeg joins in, its warm, nutty sweetness wrapping around the sharp spice, while Ceylon cardamom — celebrated for its light, eucalyptus-like brightness — lifts the heart with a cool, balsamic edge. This bold core is softened by lush floral notes: Grasse jasmine, cultivated in the perfume capital of France, unfolds with creamy, indolic richness, mingling with Bulgarian rose, famed for its deep, honeyed sweetness, adding a romantic, velvety fullness. Dutch narcissus brings a green, slightly animalic floral note — intense, yet delicate — balanced by the exotic creaminess of Nossi-Be ylang ylang, sourced from the island off Madagascar, lending a banana-like sweetness and a soft, tropical warmth.

As the fragrance dries down, it deepens into a complex, sensual base. Yugoslavian oakmoss imparts its inky, forest-floor richness, earthy and slightly bitter, blending into the smoky, camphorous edge of Indonesian patchouli. Ambergris, rare and precious, brings a salty-sweet, musky warmth, like sun-warmed skin after a day by the sea. Java vetiver adds a dry, smoky grassiness, its earthy bite contrasting with the animalic sensuality of Tibetan musk, rich and warm. Mexican vanilla sweeps in with a soft, caramelized sweetness, tempered by the creamy, buttery richness of Mysore sandalwood, revered for its warmth and softness, far smoother and more enduring than sandalwoods from other regions. Finally, Atlas cedar, from the mountains of Morocco, lends a dry, woody whisper — clean and smooth — while resins tie everything together with their warm, sticky glow, creating a lingering, incense-like hum on the skin.

Mistigri is a fragrance of contrasts — a verdant, spicy green opening that evolves into a lavishly spiced floral heart, finishing in a rich, resinous embrace. Each ingredient feels carefully chosen, evoking not just a scent, but an entire world — sun-drenched fields, bustling spice markets, and moonlit gardens. It’s a scent that feels alive, shifting and unfolding with every breath.

Bottles:

In a 1954 article from the Anderson Daily Bulletin, the fragrance Mistigri by Jacques Griffe is described with a vivid blend of charm and intrigue. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards. This playful duality is cleverly mirrored in the perfume's packaging, which resembles a deck of cards adorned with a sophisticated, feminine cat on one side and the Jack of Clubs on the other. The imagery evokes a sense of both elegance and whimsicality, perfectly capturing the essence of the fragrance.

Mistigri is likened to a cat—an animal as legendary in France as the leprechaun is in Ireland. The cat embodies a spirit that is gay, debonair, playful, and a little mischievous, but also retains a distinct feline femininity. There is an underlying sense of deceitfulness and fiery passion, qualities often attributed to cats. The spirit of this enigmatic creature is infused into every whiff of Jacques Griffe's perfume, making Mistigri not just a fragrance, but an experience that imparts gaiety, wit, and happiness to those who wear it.

This description positions Mistigri as a scent that embodies the complex and multifaceted nature of its namesake—playful and sophisticated, with a touch of mystery and allure. It suggests that the fragrance is perfect for the woman who embraces her own playful, yet deeply feminine, spirit.

Anderson Daily Bulletin, 1954:

 "Mistigri, meaning cat, as well as "Jack of Clubs," is delightfully packages like a deck of cards with a very feminine, sophisticated cat on the side, and the Jack of Clubs on the other. Mistigri, a Cat as legendary in France as the leprechaun is in Ireland, is gay, debonair, playful, a little mischievous,but also feline, feminine, a bit deceitful and fiery on occasion. The spirit of Mistigri is in every whiff of Jacques Griffe's new perfume. Its scent will impart gaiety, wit and happiness."

 

The New Yorker, 1955:

"Jacques Griffe's spicy Mistigri is now around in an eau de toilette; $5.50 for a four-and-a-quarter-ounce bottle, at Bonwit Teller and Lord & Taylor."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe is a fragrance whose exact discontinuation date remains a mystery, but it was still available for purchase as late as 1961. This perfume, with its playful and sophisticated character, captured the imagination of many during its time. Despite its eventual disappearance from the market, Mistigri left a lasting impression with its unique blend of spicy green notes, embodying the elegance and mischievous charm suggested by its name. Though no longer in production, it remains a cherished memory for those who experienced its distinctive scent.

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