Launched in 1992, Parfum d'Été by Kenzo embodied a fresh, modern vision of femininity inspired by the vibrancy and lightness of summer — a season that happened to be Kenzo Takada’s personal favorite. The name itself, Parfum d'Été, translates from French to "Summer Perfume" (par-FOOM day-TAY), capturing the very essence of sun-drenched days, blossoming nature, and the carefree warmth that defines the season. French, long associated with luxury and romance, lends the fragrance an air of sophistication and poetic allure. The phrase evokes imagery of sunlit gardens, rolling meadows, and a soft breeze carrying the scent of fresh greenery and blooming flowers — a sensory embodiment of summer’s fleeting beauty.
"Unfolds like a beautiful summer's day. Long and sensuous, intense but tender, vibrant but warm. The fragrant accords of green leaves, sap, rose, peony, jasmine and a rare secret flower rise like blossoms opening themselves to the noon sun."
The early 1990s marked a cultural shift. The excess and opulence of the 1980s were giving way to a more minimalist, nature-inspired aesthetic. The era embraced a newfound appreciation for simplicity and freshness, seen in everything from fashion to interior design — and perfumery followed suit. Designers like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan championed relaxed, streamlined silhouettes, while natural fabrics and earthy color palettes became increasingly popular. This was the rise of “casual chic,” blending comfort with effortless style.
In fragrance, the bold, heavy scents of the previous decade — think power perfumes like Poison by Dior or Giorgio Beverly Hills — began to feel overbearing. The market leaned toward cleaner, lighter compositions, aligning with the decade’s cultural craving for authenticity and a return to nature. Parfum d'Été emerged as a breath of fresh air in this landscape. It stood apart from the wave of citrus-dominated fresh fragrances and oceanic aquatics like Davidoff Cool Water, offering a greener, more floral interpretation of summer.
Women of the time would likely have found the name Parfum d'Été enchanting and aspirational. It evoked a mood, a place, an escape — not merely a scent. The early '90s woman, whether she was embracing the rising trends of professional empowerment or the laid-back ease of grunge and bohemian influences, could find in Parfum d'Été a fragrance that felt timeless yet modern. It wasn’t overly sweet or girlish, nor was it too mature — it was fresh, radiant, and versatile, making it wearable for both day and evening.
Perfumer Christian Mathieu of IFF/Tamaris S.A. composed the fragrance with a thoughtful structure, designed to reflect a summer day from dawn to dusk. The top notes unfold like the first light of morning — green, dewy, and alive with the crisp, sappy brightness of cactus flower. This unconventional opening gives the perfume an immediate sense of newness, evoking the smell of fresh-cut stems and cool garden air. The heart blooms into a warm floral bouquet: hyacinth, freesia, narcissus, peony, rose, and jasmine. This middle accord feels like standing in a sunlit meadow, the flowers warm and open under the midday light — delicate yet vibrant, blending the sweetness of freesia with the heady narcissus and romantic softness of rose and jasmine.
As the day fades into dusk, Parfum d'Été lingers with a richer, more grounded base of amber, musk, moss, sandalwood, and iris. These notes bring depth and sensuality, creating the sensation of summer air cooling against sun-warmed skin, with a hint of earthiness and the velvety smoothness of iris and sandalwood wrapping the fragrance in a soft, lasting glow.
In a sea of aquatic, citrus, and powdery florals that dominated the early ’90s, Parfum d'Été was a refreshing departure. Its green, floral-forward composition with a naturalistic feel — neither too sharp nor too sweet — made it unique. It captured not just the scent of summer, but the feeling of it: a barefoot walk through a sun-dappled garden, a breeze through freshly bloomed flowers, and the warm glow of the sun setting on a carefree day. It wasn’t simply a perfume — it was an invitation to carry the spirit of summer with you, no matter the season.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Parfum d'Été is classified as a fresh, aquatic green floral fragrance for women. Its top notes represents the dawn - green, sappy, a cactus flower; its middle note is warm and floral - hyacinth, freesia, narcissus, peony, rose and jasmine; while the base notes for dusk are the richer accords of amber, musk, moss, sandalwood and iris.
- Top notes: green sap notes, Bolivian cactus flower, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum
- Middle notes: Tunisian orange blossom, Alpine lily of the valley, Lyral, Bulgarian rose otto, Egyptian jasmine, Chinese peony, Moroccan narcissus, Guernsey freesia and Dutch hyacinth
- Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Tonkin musk, ambergris, Florentine iris, Mysore sandalwood and Yugoslavian oakmoss
Scent Profile:
Parfum d’Été unfolds like a summer day painted in scent, a vivid tapestry woven from both nature’s rarest treasures and the ingenuity of modern perfumery.
The journey begins with the top notes, a green, sappy burst that feels like the first breath of dawn. Bolivian cactus flower emerges first — a rare desert bloom that defies its arid landscape, offering a scent both watery and vegetal, as if dew clings to a sun-warmed succulent. It carries a faint, cooling sweetness, unlike traditional florals, balanced by the zesty brightness of Calabrian bergamot. Sourced from the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, this bergamot is among the world’s finest, with a vibrant, almost sparkling citrus aroma that feels fresher and more floral than its sharper Sicilian counterpart. Persian galbanum — a resinous jewel of the Iranian mountains — cuts through the sweetness with a green, slightly bitter edge, its sharpness reminiscent of crushed tomato leaves or the snap of a broken stem. This earthy verdancy adds structure, making the top notes feel alive, like the crisp air of an untouched garden at sunrise.
As the fragrance blooms into its heart, the warmth of midday unfurls. Tunisian orange blossom envelops the senses first, honeyed and luminous, with an almost waxy, sunlit richness that evokes the heat shimmering over citrus groves. This sweetness mingles with the Alpine lily of the valley — a rarer, cooler strain than its garden-grown cousin — lending a delicate, bell-like freshness, reminiscent of damp, misted meadows high in the mountains. Bulgarian rose otto, distilled from the Valley of Roses, emerges with its iconic, velvety depth — fruity, spicy, and dewy all at once — supported by Egyptian jasmine’s opulent warmth, redolent of moonlit nights in the Nile Delta.
Yet it’s the interplay of naturals and synthetics that gives Parfum d’Été its ethereal glow. Lyral, a soft, dewy aroma chemical, mimics the delicate sweetness of lily of the valley while smoothing the sharper florals. It rounds out the Moroccan narcissus, softening its heady, almost animalic greenness into something gentler — a nod to sun-drenched wildflowers swaying in a hot breeze. Guernsey freesia contributes a fruity, peppery sparkle, while Dutch hyacinth — cooler and more watery than Mediterranean varieties — layers in a fresh, green sweetness, like the first sip of spring rain. The heart hums with life, a bouquet that feels both cultivated and wild, basking under a brilliant summer sun.
As dusk falls, the base notes emerge, grounding the fragrance in a richer, more sensual warmth. Haitian vetiver — known for its smoky, earthy complexity — provides a dry, grassy anchor, its aroma tinged with whispers of citrus and salt from the island’s coastal soil. Mysore sandalwood follows, creamy and luxurious, a relic from India’s now tightly protected forests, renowned for its warm, milky smoothness that lingers like the memory of sunwarmed skin. Florentine iris, prized for its delicate, powdery elegance, lends a soft, suede-like quality, while Yugoslavian oakmoss — earthier and greener than French varieties — brings a touch of shadow, reminiscent of cool moss clinging to stone.
Tonkin musk, once derived from the musk deer of the Chinese mountains, is recreated here with modern synthetics — an olfactory illusion that balances the natural elements beautifully. It hums with a clean, skin-like warmth, enhancing the glow of ambergris, a rare oceanic treasure. This ambergris, sun-aged and smoothed by the sea, lends a salty, almost animalic depth, wrapping the fragrance in the soft, golden warmth of a sunset melting into twilight.
Parfum d’Été doesn’t merely capture the idea of summer — it bottles the sensation of it: dawn’s crisp, green promise, the lush bloom of midday, and the sultry, lingering warmth of dusk. It’s a fragrance that feels alive, evolving on the skin like sunlight shifting through a garden, where nature’s raw beauty and perfumery’s artful brilliance dance together seamlessly.
Product Line:
Parfum d'Été by Kenzo was thoughtfully crafted to suit a variety of preferences, ensuring that this radiant, summer-inspired scent could be enjoyed in multiple forms, whether as an intimate dab or a generous, airy mist.
For those seeking the purest, most concentrated expression of the fragrance, the 0.25 oz Parfum Spray offered a luxurious experience. This extrait de parfum formulation captured the heart and soul of the composition in its richest form — a few drops were enough to leave a lasting, radiant trail. A 0.25 oz Parfum Spray Refill was also available, allowing devotees to replenish their cherished bottle, a practical touch that emphasized both sustainability and indulgence.
The Eau de Toilette (EDT) versions were more versatile and airy, designed for everyday wear while still maintaining the fragrance’s vibrant, fresh, green-floral signature. For those who preferred the ritualistic elegance of dabbing scent onto pulse points, the EDT came in 0.17 oz and 1.7 oz splash bottles. These sizes were perfect for a subtle, close-to-the-skin application — the smaller one ideal for travel or sampling, while the larger size offered a more lasting supply. The 3.4 oz EDT Splash provided an even more generous portion for those who loved to luxuriate in the scent or share it among a collection.
For a more convenient, breezy application, Eau de Toilette Spray options were available in 1 oz, 1.7 oz, and 3.4 oz sizes. These atomizers allowed the wearer to envelop themselves in a light, refreshing mist, embodying the airy, carefree spirit of summer with each spray. The smallest spray bottle was perfect for tossing into a handbag, while the largest size was an ideal staple for the dressing table — a lasting reminder of summer’s vibrant warmth, even on the coldest days.
This thoughtful range of sizes and formats reflected Kenzo’s understanding of how fragrance fits into the rhythm of life — from intimate moments to bold, joyous statements — ensuring that Parfum d’Été could be experienced however the wearer desired, in any setting, for any mood.
Parfum d’Été by Kenzo wasn’t merely a fragrance — it blossomed into a full sensory experience. Expanding beyond the traditional perfume and eau de toilette, the original launch included an array of luxurious bath and body products, allowing the wearer to envelop themselves in the scent from head to toe.
The soap offered a gentle, fragrant cleanse, lathering into a soft, creamy foam that left the skin delicately perfumed with the green, floral freshness of the scent. For a more indulgent shower or bath experience, the shower gel transformed into a silky, aromatic lather, awakening the senses with its crisp, green top notes while leaving the skin refreshed and lightly scented.
The body lotion provided a nourishing follow-up, hydrating the skin while wrapping it in the fragrance’s soft, summery embrace — the floral heart notes blooming more intimately as the warmth of the skin intensified the scent. To ensure all-day freshness, deodorant options were thoughtfully included. The deodorant stick offered a smooth, creamy glide for comfort and protection, while the deodorant spray provided a lighter, cooling mist, ideal for quick, revitalizing bursts of fragrance and freshness.
By 1998, Kenzo recognized the growing demand for health-conscious and skin-friendly products, expanding the line with specially formulated variations. The Vitamin Enriched Body Lotion and Vitamin Enriched Shower Gel infused the original formulations with nourishing vitamins, ensuring the products not only smelled divine but also supported healthier, more radiant skin — a thoughtful nod to self-care beyond scent.
For those with sensitivities or who preferred to avoid alcohol in their products, Kenzo introduced an Alcohol-Free Fragrance. This version offered a softer, gentler diffusion of Parfum d’Été’s refreshing notes without the dryness that traditional alcohol-based perfumes could sometimes cause — a rare and considerate option at the time.
This diverse collection allowed wearers to fully immerse themselves in Parfum d’Été, whether they sought a quick burst of scent from a deodorant spray, the lingering embrace of a body lotion, or the clean, invigorating start of a morning shower. The range wasn’t just about fragrance — it was about turning daily routines into moments of sensory indulgence, making the spirit of summer an everyday luxury.
Bottles:
The presentation of Parfum d'Été by Kenzo reflects a perfect synergy between nature-inspired design and timeless elegance, carefully embodying the fragrance's essence. The bottle, designed by Serge Mansau in 1992 and produced by the prestigious Pochet et du Courval, stands as a piece of art in its own right. Crafted from frosted glass, the bottle mimics the delicate texture of a finely veined leaf, capturing the soft curves and natural grace of organic forms. Tiny dewdrops are sculpted into the surface, each one glistening in the light, evoking the imagery of a fresh summer morning. This design not only resonates with the fragrance's green, aquatic character but also embodies Kenzo's ability to harmonize nature's beauty with refined elegance.
The vintage bottle is elegantly presented within a turquoise box that enhances the fragrance’s summer-inspired theme. The striking blue hue of the box complements the light, airy nature of the scent while offering a refreshing pop of color. The box features a subtle, grass-like embossing, reinforcing the connection to nature and further symbolizing the fragrance's natural, earthy appeal. On the front, the iconic round Kenzo seal is prominently displayed, signifying the authenticity and luxury of the brand.
To ensure both protection and an enhanced visual experience, the bottle is encased in a clear, embossed plastic case. This protective shell adds a layer of sophistication and ensures that the intricate details of the bottle, from the delicate leaf shape to the shimmering dewdrops, are visible from all angles. The design was thoughtfully crafted to allow the bottle's natural beauty to shine through, making it as much of a visual experience as it is an olfactory one.
Overall, the packaging of Parfum d'Été encapsulates Kenzo's vision of capturing the essence of summer through a harmonious blend of natural inspirations and exquisite craftsmanship. It is a perfect vessel for a fragrance that embodies the delicate balance between the fleeting beauty of summer blooms and the lasting allure of nature’s most precious elements. The attention to detail in both the bottle and its packaging ensures that Parfum d'Été is as memorable and evocative in presentation as it is in scent.
Below is a 5 ml miniature version of the bottle from my own collection.
The vintage deluxe purse-size Parfum d'Été spray bottle is an exquisite and functional piece of design, drawing on the natural leaf motif of the original Mansau bottle while offering a more compact and portable form. This 7.5 ml spray bottle, shaped like a stylized leaf, maintains the same frosted glass finish that evokes the delicate texture of nature. However, unlike the original Mansau bottle, this version does not feature molded decoration. Instead, its simplicity enhances the elegance of the design, focusing on the purity of form. Fitted with a refillable atomizer, it offers a practical yet luxurious solution for those who wish to carry the fragrance with them in a portable, elegant manner.
The bottle is presented inside a stunning frosted resin leaf-shaped box, which perfectly imitates the design of the original Mansau leaf bottle. This presentation beautifully captures the essence of Parfum d'Été—nature-inspired and refined. The leaf box, made of frosted resin, complements the bottle’s own frosted finish, giving the whole ensemble a cohesive and harmonious look. The box's design enhances the feeling of luxury and craftsmanship, elevating the fragrance experience beyond the perfume itself.
Today, it is increasingly rare to find a complete set of this deluxe purse-size spray bottle with the accompanying leaf-shaped box, making it a sought-after collector's item. The pairing of the bottle with the box exemplifies Kenzo’s commitment to beauty and attention to detail, making this vintage presentation a true treasure for fragrance enthusiasts. The photos of the bottle and refill bottle from your own collection reflect the rarity and timeless elegance of this special version of Parfum d'Été. The combination of practicality and artistry makes it a delightful object to both use and admire.
It's not uncommon for fragrances to undergo reformulations and repackaging over time, often due to changes in regulations, availability of ingredients, or shifts in consumer preferences. While these updates may bring about differences in scent and presentation, some enthusiasts may still prefer the original vintage versions for their distinct qualities and nostalgia.
The contrast between the original vintage packaging, with its intricate leaf-shaped bottle and unique details, and the newer, more minimalist design is evident. The simplicity of the clear glass leaf-shaped bottles and the white boxes with vivid green leaf motifs on the front creates a modern and fresh aesthetic, which may appeal to contemporary consumers.
For collectors and enthusiasts, being able to distinguish between the original vintage version and the reformulated version is important, as they may seek out specific editions for their personal collections.
This was created by Jean Claude DELVILLE, not Christian Mathieu. Christian created the fabulous Kenzo for Men but not Parfum d Été... this has since been reformulated in 2002 . Unfortunately ....
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