Audace by Rochas c1936

In 1936, the year Audace by Rochas was launched, Europe was amidst a period of social and artistic upheaval. The interwar period, marked by both economic recovery and lingering post-war tensions, saw a flourishing of avant-garde movements in art, fashion, and culture. Marcel Rochas, a prominent couturier known for his innovative designs that embraced both classic elegance and modernity, captured the spirit of this era with Audace, his new perfume creation.

Marcel Rochas deliberately chose the name "Audace" for his perfume. In French, "audace," pronounced "oh-doss," translates to "audacity" or "boldness" in English. The name suggests a perfume that embodies daring and courage, qualities highly valued in the context of the 1930s when women were increasingly asserting their independence and breaking societal norms.

For Rochas, "Audace" was not just a name but a statement. He believed that a woman's scent should precede her, making a lasting impression long before she was seen. This philosophy reflected his belief in the power of fragrance to convey confidence and allure, qualities he sought to celebrate through his creations.

To those who related to a perfume named "Audace," it would evoke images of assertive femininity and evoke feelings of empowerment. Women of the time, particularly those embracing the changing roles and freedoms offered in the modern era, would have been drawn to a scent that promised to enhance their presence and leave a memorable impression.

The word "Audace" itself conjures images of bold gestures, daring fashion choices, and the courage to challenge conventions. It suggests a fragrance that is not merely pleasant but transformative—a scent that exudes charisma and captures attention effortlessly.

In summary, Audace by Rochas, launched in 1936, was more than just a perfume—it was a testament to Marcel Rochas' vision of confident femininity and the spirit of audacity that defined an era of change and innovation.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woodsy, leafy, chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lemon, neroli, bergamot, violet
• Middle notes: oakmoss, geranium, labdanum, iris, jasmine, carnation and may rose
• Base notes: vetiver, civet, galbanum, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, musk, ambergris, juniper and pine

Scent Story:

In 1936, Marcel Rochas embarked on a journey across the United States to introduce his latest olfactory creation, "Audace," at the esteemed Neiman Marcus in New York. The department store was transformed into a botanical wonderland, adorned with fresh carnations, geraniums, jasmines, and roses, their fragrances mingling in the air with anticipation.

Central to the display were the exquisite white opaline glass perfume bottles that housed Audace. These bottles, directly inspired by Rochas' chic salon at 12 Avenue Matignon in Paris, exuded elegance and sophistication. Each bottle was a masterpiece of craftsmanship, featuring a smoothly shaped rectangle with softly rounded shoulders, adorned with a matching opaline glass stopper embossed with the initials MR. A delicate blue paper label wrapped around the middle, adding a touch of refinement to the design.

Models, clad in the newest Rochas couture, gracefully paraded down a runway set up in the perfumery department, embodying the modern elegance that Audace was designed to complement. The atmosphere buzzed with excitement as guests admired the latest fashion alongside the allure of Rochas' newest fragrance.

Marcel Rochas himself, a visionary in the world of fashion and perfumery, addressed his guests with charm and enthusiasm. He described Audace as a fragrance crafted for the modern woman's most enchanting moments, designed to be worn with the most contemporary of evening gowns. His words resonated with a promise of sophistication and allure, urging women to apply a few drops to evoke their most captivating selves.

As guests immersed themselves in the sensory experience, the scene unfolded with layers of perception. Eyes were drawn to the runway, where models showcased Rochas' elegant designs, perfectly complemented by the ambiance of fresh blooms. The air carried the delicate notes of Audace's composition: lemon, neroli, bergamot, and violet in the top notes, intertwining with the earthy richness of oakmoss, geranium, labdanum, iris, jasmine, carnation, and May rose in the heart. Each ingredient contributed to the perfume's intricate balance, evoking a sense of woodland serenity and floral elegance.

Tasting the experience meant savoring the subtle nuances of a specially crafted menu, where floral-infused delicacies enhanced the olfactory journey. The murmurs of admiration and conversation filled the air, mingling with the soft strains of music playing in the background, adding to the ambiance of sophistication and refinement.

Touches were indulged in as guests explored the luxurious textures of Rochas' fabrics and the exquisite packaging of Audace. Marcel Rochas took pride in detailing the rarity and expense of sourcing these raw materials from around the globe, emphasizing the perfume's exclusivity and uncompromising quality.

In this meticulously curated event at Neiman Marcus, Marcel Rochas succeeded in not only launching a fragrance but in creating an immersive experience that engaged all the senses. Audace stood as a testament to Rochas' dedication to elegance, craftsmanship, and the artistry of perfumery, leaving a lasting impression on those who witnessed its debut in the heart of New York's fashion elite.

Bottles:

In 1936, Rochas ventured into the world of perfumery, introducing a line of fragrances that epitomized the elegance and sophistication associated with his couture. Initially available exclusively at Marcel Rochas' fashion shows, these perfumes—Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon—quickly became sought-after treasures among the fashionable elite of Paris. The inspiration for their original packaging came directly from Rochas' renowned boutique at 12 Avenue Matignon, a salon characterized by its striking blue and white décor, where Rochas conducted a thriving business in haute couture.

The perfume bottles themselves were crafted from white opaline glass, exuding a chic and minimalist aesthetic that mirrored the sophistication of Rochas' fashion designs. Available in both square and rectangular shapes, each bottle was adorned with a matching opaline glass stopper embossed with the initials "MR," seamlessly integrating the designer's personal touch into every detail. Wrapped around the middle of these exquisite flacons was a delicate blue paper label, adding a touch of color and refinement to the overall presentation.

These opulent flacons were offered in a variety of sizes, ranging from small to large, catering to different preferences and occasions. One notable variant even featured an atomizer, allowing for a luxurious application of the fragrance. Despite their popularity and initial success, the onset of the Second World War brought an abrupt halt to the production and sale of these perfumes. As a result, surviving examples of Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon in their original packaging have become exceedingly rare and highly prized by collectors, encapsulating a fleeting moment of glamour and sophistication from a bygone era in Parisian fashion and fragrance history.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 39 - Page 461, 1936:

"MARCEL ROCHAS The perfumes and toiletries of Marcel Rochas have come to America and are distributed by Pierre Amouroux, Inc. The bottles and packages are extremely smart in white with a wide blue band, and white and red lettering."

In 1936, the pricing of perfumes like Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon by Rochas reflected their status as luxury goods in an era marked by economic hardship—the Great Depression. With prices ranging from $4.50 to $32.00, these fragrances commanded a premium that placed them among the most expensive perfumes available at the time. Adjusting for inflation using today's standards, these prices translate to approximately $102.45 to $728.52 in 2024, highlighting their exorbitant cost relative to the average income during the Depression era.

The decision to price these perfumes at such a high premium was a testament to their exclusivity and the prestige associated with the Rochas brand. Marcel Rochas positioned his fragrances not merely as scents, but as symbols of luxury and sophistication, aimed at an affluent clientele who could afford to indulge in the finer things despite the economic challenges of the time.

For those fortunate enough to purchase these perfumes during the 1930s, it represented a statement of status and taste, a luxury that provided a fleeting escape from the economic realities of the Great Depression. The pricing also underscored Rochas' commitment to craftsmanship and quality, ensuring that each bottle of perfume not only contained a distinctive scent but also embodied the essence of Parisian elegance and refinement.

Today, these perfumes from the 1930s stand as artifacts of a bygone era, offering a glimpse into the world of luxury and glamour that Marcel Rochas sought to capture amidst the backdrop of economic uncertainty and social change.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War can be attributed to a combination of factors influenced by the global conflict. As the war escalated, various restrictions and challenges emerged that impacted the perfume industry and luxury goods sector as a whole.

One significant factor was the imposition of strict import and export regulations by wartime governments. Countries involved in the conflict implemented measures to conserve resources and prioritize essential supplies for the war effort. These restrictions often included limitations on the importation of non-essential goods, such as luxury perfumes, to focus resources on military needs and basic necessities.

Additionally, the availability of raw materials essential for perfume production became increasingly scarce during the war. Many ingredients traditionally sourced from countries now involved in the conflict were either unavailable or severely limited in supply. This scarcity disrupted the manufacturing processes necessary for producing high-quality perfumes like those created by Marcel Rochas.

The Nazi occupation of France, where Rochas' perfume operations were based, further exacerbated these challenges. Occupying forces imposed strict controls over industries and resources, diverting production towards war-related activities and restricting the operations of non-essential businesses. This likely led to the cessation of production and distribution of Rochas' perfumes as the focus shifted away from luxury goods towards wartime necessities.

In conclusion, the discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War was primarily driven by a combination of restrictions on imports and exports, dwindling supplies of essential ingredients, and the disruptive effects of Nazi occupation on industry and commerce in France. These factors collectively contributed to the temporary withdrawal of Rochas' fragrances from the market until the end of the war allowed for a potential revival of production and distribution.

1971 Reformulation & Relaunch:

The original 1936 version of Audace by Rochas met an untimely end with the outbreak of the Second World War, leading to its discontinuation and subsequent rarity in today's market. However, the spirit of Audace endured, and in 1971, Rochas revived the name for a reformulated version of the perfume. This reintroduction marked a significant moment for Rochas, as it had been 11 years since the brand had launched a new fragrance.

The relaunch of Audace in 1971 was accompanied by a vigorous advertising campaign, particularly targeting the American market where it was officially introduced by 1972. The perfume was positioned to capture the essence of modernity and sophistication, appealing to a new generation of consumers while also honoring the legacy of its predecessor.

To celebrate this revival, Rochas orchestrated a striking promotional effort that extended beyond conventional advertising. The headquarters at 33 rue François Ier in Paris received a temporary transformation by sculptor Pierre Sabatier (1935-2003). Sabatier crafted an off-white polyvinyl structure that adorned the facade, inspired by Charles Baudelaire's poetic work "Harmonie du soir" (Evening Harmony). This artistic installation not only symbolized the essence of fragrances but also served as a visual testament to the poetic and transformative power of Audace.

The reintroduction of Audace in 1971 and its subsequent launch in the United States in 1972 marked a new chapter for Rochas, blending tradition with innovation in a fragrance that continues to resonate with connoisseurs of fine perfumery worldwide.

1971 Launch:

To celebrate the launch of the reformulated Audace perfume in 1971, Rochas embarked on a multifaceted promotional campaign that blended fashion, gastronomy, and hairstyling into an extravagant affair. Central to this campaign was the creation of "The Audace Dress" by designer Harry Algo, a longtime associate of Rochas who had apprenticed under Marcel Rochas himself as a young boy. Algo, now running his own couture house in Paris by the 1970s, designed a striking garment that embodied the essence of Audace. Made from luxurious chocolate brown velvet, the backless dress featured a deep-ruffled décolletage, exuding a richly feminine allure reminiscent of Spain, where Audace drew its inspiration.

The launch event for Audace was equally lavish. Held at the renowned Cote Basque in New York, a gourmet luncheon was orchestrated where every dish incorporated floral essences such as chrysanthemums, rose petals, and orchids. This sensory experience was carefully curated to harmonize with the fragrance's floral and sophisticated character, offering guests a taste of the perfume's essence through culinary artistry.

The anticipation and acclaim surrounding Audace extended beyond the fashion and culinary worlds. Alexandre, a celebrated Parisian hairstylist renowned for his acute olfactory senses akin to those of a perfumer, predicted that Audace would ascend to the highest echelon of perfumery. Recognizing his expertise, Parfums Rochas invited Alexandre to create a hairstyle inspired by Audace. Presenting seven distinct designs, Alexandre's favorite—a versatile style suitable for both natural and enhanced hair—was ultimately chosen to complement the perfume's allure and elegance.

Through these meticulous efforts blending fashion, cuisine, and hairstyling, Rochas ensured that the reintroduction of Audace in 1971 not only revitalized the fragrance but also cemented its place as a symbol of timeless sophistication and allure in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a modern floral blend, with woodsy green overtones. Rochas called it a cool spiced floral, blending tuberose, Florentine iris, and Bulgarian rose, with a touch of green added, warmed and heightened by deep notes of sandalwood, oakmoss, amber and musk, designed to adapt to individual skin chemistry.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Florentine iris, white jasmine, bergamot, violet
• Middle notes: jonquil, spices, wild thyme, honeysuckle, iris, tuberose, carnation and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: myrrh, galbanum, opoponax, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, musk, amber, juniper and pine

Scent Story:

In 1971, the glamorous launch of Rochas' newest fragrance, "Audace," unfolded with unparalleled elegance at the prestigious Cote Basque in New York. The event, orchestrated by Helene Rochas herself, was a sensory marvel from the moment guests stepped through the adorned entrance. Fresh carnations, honeysuckles, jasmines, jonquils, and roses adorned every corner, filling the air with their heady floral fragrances.

Inside, the restaurant was transformed into a floral paradise, reflecting the essence of Audace. Models, draped in the latest Rochas creations, glided through the room with grace, offering small vials of the perfume to guests, each delicately scented with Audace's intricate blend.

At the heart of the event was "The Audace Dress," a creation by designer Harry Algo commissioned specifically to embody the perfume's personality. Crafted from rich chocolate brown velvet, the dress featured a backless design that plunged to a deep-ruffled décolletage, evoking the allure and sophistication of Spain. It was a visual testament to Audace's opulence and femininity, perfectly complementing the fragrance it represented.

Amidst the festivities, Alexandre, the esteemed Parisian hairstylist known for his acute sense of smell, offered his predictions on Audace's future in the world of perfumery. His insights added an air of anticipation and prestige to the occasion, as guests eagerly awaited the unveiling of Rochas' latest olfactory masterpiece.

Helene Rochas herself, radiant in her grace, addressed the gathering, extolling the virtues of Audace. She described its composition as a modern floral blend with woodsy green overtones, meticulously crafted to adapt to individual skin chemistry. Highlighting the rarity and costliness of its ingredients sourced from around the world, she emphasized Audace's exclusivity and sophistication.

As the luncheon unfolded, every dish served incorporated floral essences—chrysanthemums, rose petals, and orchids—creating a harmonious symphony of flavors that mirrored the perfume's floral and spicy notes. The atmosphere resonated with the mingling of fragrances, flavors, and the murmurs of excited guests, enraptured by the sensory experience crafted by Rochas.

In this moment at the Cote Basque, guests not only witnessed the launch of a fragrance but also immersed themselves in a symphony of senses—seeing the elegance of The Audace Dress, smelling the intricate blend of Audace's top notes of aldehydes, Florentine iris, white jasmine, bergamot, and violet, tasting the floral-infused cuisine, hearing the soft whispers of anticipation, and touching the luxurious textures that adorned the event. Rochas' Audace had indeed captivated hearts and senses alike, marking its debut as a timeless icon of sophistication and allure in the world of perfumery.

Product Line:

The reintroduced version of Audace by Rochas in 1971 offered a comprehensive and diverse product line, catering to various preferences and occasions with a range of sizes and formulations. The perfume was available in several luxurious options, each designed to enhance the wearer's experience of its refined and sophisticated fragrance profile.

For those seeking convenience and elegance, Audace was offered in sizes that included a 1/5 oz Parfum Purse Spray, ideal for portability and touch-ups on the go. The classic 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz Parfum bottles provided a more substantial amount of fragrance in a compact form, perfect for everyday use. For a more indulgent experience, larger sizes such as the 1 oz, 2 oz, and 3 oz Parfum bottles were available, ensuring that enthusiasts could enjoy Audace to their heart's content.

Recognizing the popularity of spray formats, Rochas also offered the perfume in different spray sizes, including the 1/2 oz Parfum Spray, which combined convenience with a luxurious application. The range extended further with the 0.75 oz, 2 oz, and 4 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray options, catering to those who preferred a lighter concentration while still enjoying the essence of Audace.

Additionally, for those who preferred a splash application, Audace was available in generous sizes of Parfum de Toilette Splash, including the 2 oz, 4 oz, and impressive 7.5 oz bottles. This variety in packaging not only accommodated different usage preferences but also emphasized the versatility and enduring appeal of Audace as a hallmark fragrance from Rochas.

With its extensive product line, the reintroduction of Audace in 1971 reaffirmed its status as a quintessential fragrance choice for those who appreciated elegance, sophistication, and the timeless allure of Rochas perfumery.

Bottle:

The bottle design of Audace in its reintroduced 1971 version exuded elegance and modernity, reflecting the sophisticated essence of the perfume itself. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the bottle featured a smoothly shaped rectangle with softly rounded shoulders, enveloped in rich golden amber tones. The base of the bottle was uniquely designed with a double-tiered structure made of polished opaque brown plexiglass, adding a touch of depth and solidity to its appearance.

At the top of the bottle, a distinctive panel face of brushed, satin-finished rose aluminum provided a contrast in texture and color, enhancing the bottle's luxurious aesthetic. The crowning glory of the design was the cap, which consisted of two spheres intricately layered: an inner sphere in radiant gold encircled by a dome crafted from clear, coppery plexiglass. This combination of materials and finishes not only added visual interest but also underscored the perfume's luxurious and contemporary appeal.

Overall, the bottle design of Audace in 1971 was a testament to Rochas' commitment to blending timeless elegance with modern innovation. It served not only as a vessel for the fragrance but also as a symbol of sophistication and refinement, complementing the allure of Audace as a cherished perfume choice among discerning fragrance enthusiasts.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The 1971 version of Audace, despite its initial acclaim and innovative design, met a relatively short-lived existence in the perfume market. Introduced with much fanfare and a robust marketing campaign in the early 1970s, Audace captured the attention of fragrance enthusiasts with its sophisticated blend and stylish packaging. However, by 1978, the perfume was discontinued, marking the end of its brief but impactful presence on the fragrance landscape.

The reasons behind Audace's discontinuation remain speculative, often influenced by changing consumer preferences, evolving trends in perfumery, or strategic decisions within Rochas itself. While it enjoyed a period of popularity and recognition, the competitive nature of the perfume industry and shifting market dynamics may have contributed to its eventual removal from shelves.

Despite its discontinuation, the 1971 version of Audace remains a cherished memory for those who experienced its luxurious blend and admired its distinctive bottle design. Its legacy lives on through vintage collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its contribution to Rochas' rich history of perfumery and its place among the notable fragrances of its time.