"Calyx" by Prescriptives, unveiled in 1986, represents a collaboration between two renowned perfumers: Sophia Grojsman and Karyn Khoury of Estee Lauder. Inspired by the vibrant green portion of a flower, known as the calyx, the fragrance captures the essence of freshness and renewal akin to the unfurling of a new blossom. With its invigorating and exhilarating aroma, Calyx celebrates the crisp, revitalizing energy of nature's awakening, making it a timeless favorite among fragrance enthusiasts seeking a burst of revitalization.
Calyx stands as a testament to the collaborative genius of two esteemed perfumers: Sophia Grojsman and Karyn Khoury, both distinguished figures within the fragrance industry and affiliated with Estée Lauder. Their combined expertise and creative vision brought forth this olfactory masterpiece, blending Grojsman's talent for capturing natural freshness and Khoury's artistry in crafting harmonious compositions. The result is a fragrance that transcends time, evoking the vibrant essence of a blooming flower and capturing the essence of nature's renewal. With Calyx, Grojsman and Khoury have created a symphony of scents that continues to enchant and inspire fragrance enthusiasts around the world.
Karyn Khoury, an accomplished perfumer known for her artistry and creativity, has contributed to the creation of several notable fragrances throughout her career. As the Senior Vice President of Corporate Fragrance Development Worldwide for Estée Lauder, Karyn Khoury has overseen the creation of various fragrances under the Aerin brand, including Aerin Lauder's personal fragrance line. While Karyn Khoury's specific contributions to each fragrance may vary, her expertise and passion for perfumery have undoubtedly left a lasting mark on the industry, shaping the olfactory landscape with her innovative creations.
Sophia Grojsman's creative journey for Calyx was sparked by a sensory experience deeply rooted in nature. Following her return from a memorable sojourn in Israel, where she resided in a picturesque bungalow surrounded by lush orange and grapefruit groves, Grojsman was profoundly inspired. The zesty, aromatic essence emanating from these citrus trees left an indelible mark on her olfactory memory, ultimately becoming the cornerstone of Calyx's distinctive character. Infused with the invigorating freshness of citrus, Calyx encapsulates the sun-drenched vitality of Mediterranean orchards, offering wearers a rejuvenating olfactory escape reminiscent of Grojsman's idyllic retreat.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women. A dramatically unique fragrance blending lush, tropical fruity notes of mango, passionfruit, papaya, and guava with sense-awakening citrus notes of mandarin and grapefruit. The body of the fragrance is composed of fresh, feminine floralcy - blossoms of freesia, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, lily, and marigold are surrounded by the tropical top note. A background of mosses and woods preserved the tropical feeling while adding depth and sensuality.
- Top notes: apricot, passionfruit, mint, mandarin, cassia, peach, mango, bergamot, grapefruit, papaya and guava
- Middle notes: cyclamen, lily, melon, freesia, orris root, jasmine, neroli, marigold, lily-of-the-valley and rose
- Base notes: raspberry, musk, oakmoss, cedar, sandalwood and vetiver
Scent Profile:
As you experience Calyx by Prescriptives, the top notes deliver an exhilarating and vibrant burst of tropical fruit. The initial scent of apricot greets you with its warm, velvety sweetness, evoking the essence of ripe, sun-drenched fruit. This is swiftly followed by the tangy and exotic aroma of passionfruit, which adds a rich, tropical complexity. The freshness of mint introduces a cool, invigorating note that contrasts delightfully with the sweet fruits. Mandarin and bergamot contribute a bright, citrusy zing, their lively, zesty fragrances bringing a sparkling freshness. The soft, sweet peach and succulent mango enhance the tropical feel, their lush, fruity aromas blending seamlessly with the citrus. Grapefruit adds a sharp, tangy edge, while papaya and guava round out the top notes with their creamy, tropical sweetness, creating a vibrant and mouthwatering start to the fragrance.
As the initial burst of tropical fruit begins to settle, the middle notes of Calyx unfold, introducing a bouquet of fresh, feminine florals. Cyclamen offers a delicate, slightly sweet floral scent with a hint of green freshness. The soft, powdery aroma of lily blends seamlessly with the crisp, clean scent of melon, adding a refreshing, fruity nuance. Freesia contributes a sweet, lightly peppery floral note, while orris root adds a subtle, velvety depth. Jasmine emerges with its rich, exotic floral fragrance, intertwining with the bright, citrusy neroli and the warm, sunny scent of marigold. Lily-of-the-valley provides a fresh, dewy quality, and rose introduces a classic, romantic floral note. Together, these florals create a complex, layered heart that complements the tropical top notes with a touch of elegant, feminine freshness.
As the fragrance evolves, the base notes of Calyx come to the forefront, adding depth and sensuality to the scent. Raspberry provides a sweet, slightly tart fruitiness that lingers softly, blending beautifully with the warm, sensual musk. Oakmoss introduces a rich, earthy quality, its green, woody aroma adding a touch of natural sophistication. Cedar and sandalwood contribute a warm, woody depth, with cedar offering a crisp, clean woodiness and sandalwood adding a creamy, smooth richness. Vetiver rounds out the base with its earthy, smoky aroma, providing a grounding, slightly woody finish. These base notes add complexity and depth to the fragrance, creating a sensual, lingering impression that balances the tropical and floral elements with a touch of earthy sophistication.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Despite its cherished status among fragrance enthusiasts, Calyx has unfortunately been discontinued for several years. This decision, while disappointing for fans of the scent, is not uncommon in the ever-evolving landscape of the perfume industry, where product offerings are periodically refreshed and updated to reflect changing consumer preferences and market trends. While Calyx may no longer be readily available for purchase, its legacy lives on through fond memories and nostalgic recollections of its invigorating aroma. For those who still seek to experience its unique blend of tropical fruits, fresh florals, and sensual woods, exploring vintage or secondary market sources may offer a chance to rediscover this beloved fragrance and relive its timeless allure.
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