Feminite du Bois by Shiseido c1992

Feminite du Bois by Shiseido: launched in 1992. Created by Christopher Sheldrake in collaboration with Pierre Bourdon. This was Shiseido's first perfume to be sold in the United Kingdom.

To coincide with the launch of the new fragrance, Shiseido opened, Les Salons du Palais Royal at the historic Place du Palais Royal, near the famous Louvre Museum. Built from 1634-1639 as a palace for Cardinal Richelieu, the Palais Royal acquired its name in 1643 when Queen Anne of Austria took up residence with young Louis XIV. 

Also in 1992, Shiseido also opened a new factory in Gien, near Orleans, producing the new perfumes in French-designed packaging. The company took care to emphasize the French aspects of the operation. The French factory employed 46 workers and the work force was expected to triple by 1995. Shiseido invested about $18 million in the perfume operation, equal to current annual sales of all its products in France. Its sales world wide at that time was a total of $3.67 billion.

Serge Lutens was asked by Shiseido to create a line of original fragrances, which he refers to as "one of the most difficult things in my life."  

Rather than follow the trend of lighter, cucumber/melon, oceanic type fragrances, Lutens went for something a little different, richer, heavier, more opulent. Lutens was inspired by the Atlas mountains of Morocco, where he lived for most of the year. It is atop these mountains that the Atlas cedar grows. He decided that this essence would be the featured ingredient in his new fragrance. Added to the mix are the warm, familiar spices of a Marrakesh souk. He said, "What I do, is not a la mode. I am someone who works outside any trend."

It was upon the success of Feminite du Bois that a series of prestige fragrances, les Eaux Boisees, was developed around the same cedar base, to be sold exclusively via the salon. Other exclusive scents were Les Somptueux, Les Eaux Anciennes and Fleurs Nobles. But Feminite du Bois was perhaps his most famous fragrance and was sold not only at the Parisian boutique, but also at selected Shiseido beauty counters internationally.

Lutens said that "Perfume is an essence; it is the seventh sense; it is not a system of consummation. Here it is not marketing, only the selling of perfume. We expose people to odors. We give them, if you like, the taste of perfume. We don't make socio-cultural perfume" you know, 'If you buy this bottle, you are la femme sexy; if you buy that one, la femme active.' Here we sell perfume. We explain perfume. We teach perfume. This is the haute couture of the perfume business. It's an experiment, a new form of distribution. Because with distribution, you are more or less dependent on the distributor. You're always compared with other products. I think that everything is going to change."

 

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental woody chypre fragrance for women. It features a highly unusual top note of cedar absolute from the Atlas mountains in Morocco and is described as wonderfully woodsy with touches of cedar, exotic Turkish rose, fresh Moroccan orange blossom, violet, Indonesian cardamom, Chinese cinnamon, clove and a fruity accent of juicy peach and Japanese plum. It can be said to be warm, creamy, honeyed, fruity, bitter and rich and has an overdose of synthetic musk known as Iso E Super (43%).

• Top notes: beeswax, Japanese plum, Moroccan orange blossom, Atlas cedar, ginger, bergamot, rosewood, peach, Atlas cedar,  tarragon, Turkish rose, carnation, and honey
• Middle notes: Chinese cinnamon, Atlas cedar, mace, orris, jasmine, ylang ylang, violets, clove, Indonesian cardamom
• Base notes: Atlas cedar, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, civet, sandalwood, benzoin, musk

Bottles:

The fragrance was originally housed in a undulating, asymmetrical glass bottle reminiscent of the female form. It is of varying shades of maroon. The bottle was designed by Serge Lutens.

The original formula of Feminite du Bois was available in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum
• 0.5 oz Parfum - retailed for $120
• Parfum Stylo, with two 0.03 oz refills - retailed for $27.00
• 0.03 oz Refills for the Stylo - retailed for $12.00 each
• 0.13 oz (4ml) Eau de Parfum Splash miniature
• 1.6 oz Eau de Parfum Mist - retailed for $55.00
• 1.6 os Eau de Parfum Splash - retailed for $50.00
• 3.3 oz Eau Timide Pure Mist  (Treatment Fragrance) - retailed for $42.00 
• 3.3 oz Eau Timide Splash  (Treatment Fragrance) - retailed for $35.00 
• 7 oz Creme Aerienne Pour Le Corps (Too Heavenly Body Cream)
• 5 oz Brume Emulsion Pour Le Corps (Body Lotion Mist)

From 1993 to 1996, Shiseido packaged its Feminite du Bois in a refillable, Mark Thomas fragrance pen, a ballpoint-pen-sized "Parfum Stylo", it came with two refill cartridges. This retailed for $ 27.50.

"Born of the profound harmony and balance found in nature, Feminite du Bois is a tribute to perfection, beauty and pure, sensual femininity. Inspiration begins with the satiny-warm essence of the Cedarwood Atlas tree. Then floral, fruity notes and hints of spices are added to create perfect balance. You dab the tip of the pen gently on the skin and the perfume is applied in its most concentrated form. For long-lasting effects fragrance should be applied to the body's pulse points. These include the wrist, behind the ear, crease of your arm and knee, and the base of your throat. Pulse points give off more body heat as this is where blood vessels are closest to the skin, therefore continually warming and releasing your fragrance. Feminite Du Bois Parfum Stylo Pen and refills contains 0.9ml."

The Eau de Parfum is next in concentration. It was available in both splash and spray forms.

Also released in addition to the Parfum and Eau de Parfum was the Eau Timide "Treatment Fragrance." I believe it would be equal to an Eau de Toilette in concentration. Like the Eau de Parfum, it was available in splash and spray forms.

The Feminite du Bois line only had two ancillary products: a body cream and a body lotion mist. The Brume Emulsion was a delicate moisturizer for the skin of the body Light and quickly absorbed by the skin. Hydrates the skin for an optimal moisture balance. Leaves the skin smooth, soft and fresh.

CLICK HERE TO FIND FEMINITE DU BOIS

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original Feminite du Bois by Shiseido may have been discontinued around 2001-2004 period.

It was later released under Serge Lutens label in 2009. Reformulated by Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon. This version is housed in totally new packaging, which at the time, was the standard Serge Lutens flacon for his line of fragrances featuring a white label. Luckily for us, this helps to differentiate it from the original formula. Note that this now features Virginian cedar rather than the Atlas cedar which was a big component of the original Shiseido formula.

• Top notes: Virginia cedar, plum, cinnamon and peach
• Middle notes: clove, ginger, violet, ylang-ylang, rose and African orange blossom
• Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, musk and vanilla

In 2022, a new, limited edition was released to commemorate Feminite du Bois' 30th anniversary. The regular bottle of the Eau de Parfum has a black label now instead of the white as it has been included in Serge Lutens' Collection noire. 

Despite what the notes say, I believe that the scent may have been slightly reformulated to conform to current IFRA regulations and restrictions on ingredients.

• Top notes: Virginian cedar, plum, cinnamon, peach
• Middle notes: cloves, ginger, ylang-ylang, rose, violet, orange blossom
• Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, musk, vanilla