Tamango by Leonard c1977

Tamango was introduced by Parfums Leonard in 1977, a time when the fragrance industry was transitioning through various style phases. During the 1970s, the perfume market was characterized by a growing appreciation for more complex and sophisticated compositions, often blending fresh and floral elements with deeper, earthy undertones. This period saw the rise of fragrances that combined aldehydic freshness with lush floral bouquets and rich bases, reflecting the era’s penchant for luxurious and elegant scents.

Tamango, with its classification as a soft, crisp, green, aldehydic floral fragrance, aligned well with the trends of the time. Its use of aldehydes, a hallmark of the 1960s and 1970s, provided the sparkling, clean opening that was popular in many contemporary perfumes. The green, floral heart and sensual, powdery base were also reflective of the era’s inclination towards creating fragrances with a sophisticated yet accessible character. While it wasn’t entirely unique, Tamango distinguished itself through its careful balance of fresh, green notes and rich, powdery base, offering a refined and elegant option within a market that was increasingly embracing both bold and nuanced scent profiles.

The name "Tamango" was chosen by Parfums Leonard, drawing inspiration from a character in a novella by Prosper Mérimée, a prominent 19th-century French writer known for his vivid and dramatic storytelling. The character Tamango is the central figure in Mérimée's short story titled "Tamango", which was first published in 1829. The story, set in the early 19th century, follows the life of a West African slave and his rebellion against the oppressive forces of the French colonial system.

The name "Tamango" evokes images of exoticism and adventure, reflecting the perfume's sophisticated and somewhat enigmatic character. The character in Mérimée’s story represents a blend of strength and resilience, qualities that can be metaphorically linked to the fragrance’s enduring appeal and its complex olfactory structure. The name imbues the perfume with a sense of mystery and depth, suggesting a fragrance that is both elegant and layered.

Leonard is a French fashion house renowned for its high-quality textiles and sophisticated designs. Founded in 1958 by the designer Jacques Leonard, the brand became known for its luxurious fabrics and refined fashion sense. In the 1970s, Leonard expanded its brand identity to include fragrances, leveraging its reputation for elegance and quality. By launching Tamango, Leonard continued to assert its presence in the luxury market, offering a fragrance that matched its established image of sophistication and style.

In summary, Tamango’s launch in 1977 fit well within the evolving trends of the perfume industry, balancing aldehydic freshness with floral elegance and a sensual base. The choice of name, inspired by a character from Prosper Mérimée’s novella, added a layer of intrigue and exoticism, aligning with the perfume’s sophisticated and refined character. Leonard’s association with high fashion further underscored the perfume’s elegance and appeal.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? Tamango by Leonard is classified as a soft, crisp, green, aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic green top, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine, sensual base. It was said to be inspired by the tamango flower of the orient. "Combines a harmony of floral notes (hyacinth, lily of the valley, jasmine, rose) with rare essences such as vetiver, sandalwood and oakmoss."

• Top notes: Dutch hyacinth, Florentine iris, wild orchid, aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, green notes and spice oils, Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Alpine lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, Grasse rose de mai, French carnation
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Somali opoponax, Venezuelan tonka bean and Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:

Tamango by Leonard is a fragrance that unfolds like a perfectly orchestrated symphony, each note revealing itself with breathtaking clarity and purpose. It begins with an invigorating burst of Dutch hyacinth, its cool, waxy petals exuding a dewy freshness tinged with green, as if a bouquet of early spring blooms had been gathered at dawn. The ethereal brightness of aldehydes sparkles through, lending an airy, champagne-like fizz that lifts the composition and sets the stage for its elegant evolution. 

A crisp thread of green notes winds through the opening, carrying the slightly peppery bite of spice oils, while the resinous depth of Persian galbanum—prized for its rich, earthy verdancy—grounds the fragrance with a sophisticated, almost classical chypre edge. This interplay of textures is further refined by the sunlit radiance of Calabrian bergamot, its golden citrus essence adding a fleeting but crucial effervescence that softens the sharper green edges.

As Tamango unfolds, the floral heart blooms in a graceful cascade of timeless femininity. Nossi-Be ylang ylang, sourced from the remote island off Madagascar’s coast, spills forth in silky waves of creamy, banana-tinged floralcy, its narcotic depth lending an air of exotic sensuality. Alpine lily of the valley, gathered from the cool, high-altitude meadows of Europe, brings a fresh, crystalline quality, like raindrops clinging to delicate bell-shaped blossoms. 

The powdery opulence of Florentine iris and the honeyed sweetness of Egyptian jasmine intertwine with Grasse rose de mai, a floral jewel cultivated in the perfume capital of France, known for its soft, fruity depth and unparalleled elegance. Finally, the warm clove-like spice of French carnation adds an unexpected fiery twist, giving the heart a vintage sophistication that whispers of bygone glamour.

The fragrance deepens into a sensual and enveloping base, where the chypre foundation truly takes hold. Haitian vetiver, with its smoky, earthy whisper, laces through the composition like the roots of an ancient tree, binding the elements together with a grounding strength. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the misty forests of the Alps, imparts the signature chypre greenness—a damp, velvety texture reminiscent of moss-covered bark and sun-dappled ferns. 

Mysore sandalwood, the rarest and most coveted variety, unfurls its creamy, balsamic warmth, adding a meditative, resinous depth that lingers like a soft caress. A golden glow of ambergris, its oceanic, sun-warmed salinity adding a natural muskiness, blends seamlessly with the resinous, honeyed richness of Somali opoponax, a sacred incense-like note that imparts both warmth and mystery. To finish, Venezuelan tonka bean, with its vanilla-almond facets, and the primal sensuality of Tonkin musk wrap the fragrance in a soft, powdery embrace—at once comforting, elegant, and undeniably alluring.

Tamango is a fragrance that exists beyond time, its interplay of aldehydic brightness, delicate florals, and mossy, woody depth capturing the essence of refined femininity. It is a scent that lingers on silk scarves, the nape of the neck, and the air long after its wearer has gone—an imprint of elegance, romance, and an unforgettable presence.

Bottles:

The bottles for "Tamango," the fragrance designed in 1977, were created by Serge Mansau and produced in France by Pochet et du Courval. Serge Mansau is a renowned French perfume bottle designer known for his elegant and innovative designs. Pochet et du Courval is a prestigious glassmaker that has been producing high-quality perfume bottles for luxury brands for over a century. The collaboration between Mansau and Pochet et du Courval likely resulted in a bottle design that beautifully complemented the timeless elegance and sophistication of the "Tamango" fragrance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Tamango" was discontinued at some point, but the exact date is unknown. However, it was later reformulated and relaunched in a new bottle in 1997. This relaunch likely aimed to rejuvenate the fragrance and appeal to contemporary tastes while retaining its essence and legacy. The new bottle design and reformulation might have reflected changes in trends, consumer preferences, or advancements in perfumery techniques. Despite the discontinuation of the original version, the relaunch in 1997 allowed "Tamango" to continue its journey, captivating new generations of fragrance enthusiasts while still paying homage to its storied past.