Fendi by Fendi c1985

Fendi by Fendi, launched in 1985 in collaboration with Florbath Profumi di Parma, made its way to the U.S. market in 1987. The choice of the name "Fendi" was deliberate and powerful, drawing on the prestige and glamour already associated with the fashion house. The word "Fendi" itself originates from the family name of the brand’s founders — an Italian surname that conveys sophistication, luxury, and timeless style. Pronounced 'FEHN-dee' (with the first syllable rhyming with "pen"), the name evokes images of high fashion, opulence, and the effortless elegance tied to the Italian lifestyle.

The mid-1980s were a period defined by boldness and extravagance, often remembered as the "Decade of Decadence." It was a time when power dressing reigned supreme — sharp-shouldered suits, lavish fabrics, and statement accessories reflected the ambitious, career-driven spirit of the era. Designers like Fendi played a pivotal role in shaping this aesthetic, particularly with their luxurious furs and high-end clothing. Women embraced this newfound power and confidence, and a fragrance bearing the name "Fendi" would have symbolized more than just a scent; it embodied status, passion, and modern femininity. For the woman of the 1980s — strong, independent, but unapologetically glamorous — wearing Fendi was a statement of self-assurance and allure.

Fendi’s expansion into fragrance was a natural evolution of the brand’s identity. Known globally for their exquisite furs and chic apparel, the five Fendi sisters — Anna, Carla, Franca, Alda, and Paola — sought to create a scent that would encapsulate the essence of their Roman heritage: mysterious, passionate, and irresistibly enchanting. They approached the fragrance market with care and precision, partnering with Elizabeth Arden to produce and distribute the perfume through its Bethco division. Launched exclusively at Bloomingdale's, the parfum debuted at a prestigious $100 for a half-ounce, with the 1.7 oz eau de toilette retailing for $32 — a clear indication of its status as a luxury product.

Carla Fendi explained their vision through an interpreter, emphasizing that their goal was to craft something unique: “More than provocative, it’s more important to do something different. We want the person who chooses Fendi to do so because she loves Fendi. We wanted our fragrance to be everything...pure emotion on the skin, mystery, beauty, passion.” The target audience was the modern woman — a working professional who embraced her femininity without compromise. This vision aligned seamlessly with the cultural mood of the era, where women were redefining their roles in both the boardroom and society at large.

The fragrance itself mirrored this bold, elegant spirit. Classified as a chypre floral with woody and spicy nuances, it opened with an alluring aldehydic floral top, transitioning into a rich floral heart of rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang. The base was a luxurious blend of patchouli, sandalwood, musk, and ambergris — softened by subtle hints of leather and spice. This composition set Fendi apart from many lighter, fruitier scents of the time, offering instead a more sophisticated, sensual alternative. It exuded confidence and mystery, perfectly aligning with the powerful, dynamic women it sought to represent.

Fendi’s packaging design was equally striking, reflecting the brand's Roman roots. The bottle, adorned with the iconic double F logo — described by the sisters as “a crowning of our work style” — was a visual tribute to the Eternal City. Its neoclassical lines and golden hue evoked the warmth and grandeur of a Roman sunset, encapsulating the passion and opulence synonymous with Fendi’s fashion and heritage.

Fendi by Fendi was more than just a perfume; it was an olfactory extension of the brand’s identity. It captured the bold, sensual, and empowered spirit of the 1980s woman, offering her a scent that was as multifaceted and magnetic as she was. In a decade driven by ambition and indulgence, Fendi's first foray into fragrance stood as a testament to timeless Italian luxury — and the enduring power of a name.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fendi by Fendi is classified as a chypre floral fragrance with woody and spicy notes. It begins with an aldehydic flowery top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a woody, powdery base. Its unique scent is made from roses, jasmine, ylang ylang, patchouli, sandalwood, musk and amber.

• Top notes: Brazilian rosewood, Calabrian bergamot, aldehydes, Spanish mandarin orange, Russian coriander, Sicilian lemon and Ceylon cardamom
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Indian tuberose, Jamaican nutmeg, Manila ylang-ylang, Grasse rose, Egyptian jasmine, Florentine orris, French carnation, Alpine lily of the valley, Bourbon geranium and cypress from La Crau
• Base notes: Sudanese myrrh, Siamese benzoin, Venezuelan tonka bean, Madagascar vanilla, leather, spices, Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, Lebanese cedar, ambergris, Yugoslavian oakmoss and Tonkin musk

"First, the voluptuous notes of rose, jasmine and ylang ylang. Them, a subtle intertwining of patchouli, sandalwood, musk and amber tempered by a hint of leather and spices."

Scent Profile:

Fendi by Fendi unfolds like a luxurious, opulent tapestry woven with the finest raw materials sourced from around the world. From the very first inhale, it is an intoxicating journey, beginning with a shimmering burst of citrus and spice. The bright, zesty notes of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon, both sun-drenched and intensely aromatic, create an effervescent opening, while Spanish mandarin orange adds a juicy, slightly honeyed sweetness. The crispness of aldehydes lends a sparkling, champagne-like quality, giving the top notes a sense of airy sophistication. A touch of Russian coriander, known for its sharp, slightly peppery undertone, and the exotic warmth of Ceylon cardamom provide a whisper of spice, deepening the intrigue. Finally, Brazilian rosewood, with its delicate rosy-woody facets, anchors the top notes with a polished elegance, hinting at the rich depths that await.

As the heart of the fragrance unfolds, it reveals a breathtaking bouquet, each floral note meticulously chosen for its unparalleled quality. The star of the composition is Grasse jasmine, a bloom cultivated in the perfume capital of the world, prized for its narcotic richness and velvety depth. Indian tuberose, known for its lush, creamy intensity, intertwines with the heady sweetness of Egyptian jasmine, creating an opulent floral tapestry. Manila ylang-ylang, with its slightly banana-like fruitiness and hypnotic warmth, tempers the intensity of the white florals, while Grasse rose—a symbol of classic French perfumery—introduces a deep, honeyed elegance. 

Florentine orris, one of the most precious perfume ingredients, lends a soft, powdery sophistication, while Bourbon geranium, with its green, minty freshness, cuts through the density, adding balance. Alpine lily of the valley contributes a dewy lightness, while French carnation brings a spicy, almost clove-like nuance, further enhanced by the dry, aromatic touch of cypress from La Crau. Together, these elements create a floral heart that is both regal and intoxicating, capturing the essence of Fendi’s Roman glamour.

As the fragrance settles into its final act, the base notes emerge, offering an irresistibly warm, sensual dry down. Indonesian patchouli, with its deep, earthy richness, merges with the smoky, slightly bitter elegance of Yugoslavian oakmoss, reinforcing the fragrance’s chypre character. Haitian vetiver, with its green, almost leathery smokiness, adds a grounding, masculine edge, while Mysore sandalwood, the most coveted variety, imparts a creamy, buttery smoothness that lingers on the skin. 

Sudanese myrrh and Siamese benzoin bring a resinous sweetness, adding a balsamic, almost incense-like quality. Venezuelan tonka bean and Madagascar vanilla wrap the composition in a velvety warmth, their caramelized sweetness offset by the raw animalic sensuality of Tonkin musk. The deep, smoky richness of Lebanese cedar enhances the sophistication, while ambergris—one of the most legendary ingredients in perfumery—imparts a salty, skin-like warmth that makes the fragrance feel like a second skin.

Fendi by Fendi is more than just a fragrance; it is an olfactory masterpiece, an evocative tribute to Rome’s passion, luxury, and grandeur. Each note tells a story, from the citrus groves of the Mediterranean to the flower fields of Grasse, the spice markets of Asia, and the lush forests of South America. It is a scent for a woman who is bold yet elegant, modern yet timeless—an embodiment of mystery, beauty, and unrelenting passion.

Bottle:

Fendi by Fendi’s presentation is a masterclass in design, reflecting the same bold sophistication embodied by the fragrance itself. The bottle, designed by the legendary Pierre Dinand in 1985, exudes an architectural elegance — a seamless blend of modernity and classic Roman grandeur. Dinand, known for his iconic creations across the luxury perfume world, crafted a vessel that feels as much like a sculptural statement piece as it does a perfume flacon. The clean, geometric lines and bold structure mirror the powerful, confident woman the fragrance was designed for: strong, sensual, and unapologetically sophisticated.

The glass bottle was produced by two esteemed manufacturers: Pochet et du Courval and R. Bormioli. Pochet et du Courval, a French glassmaker with centuries of experience, is revered for its work with some of the most prestigious fragrance houses. Their mastery in creating crystal-clear, weighty glass ensures that the Fendi bottle has a luxurious heft — a tangible reminder of its high-end origins. R. Bormioli, an Italian glass manufacturer, brings a different kind of expertise to the table, blending artistry with advanced technology to produce bottles that are both durable and strikingly beautiful. Together, these two powerhouses ensured that each Fendi bottle carried an aura of prestige, reflecting the house’s Roman heritage and the opulent spirit of the fragrance within.

The bottle’s plastic elements, often overlooked in favor of the more glamorous glass, were crafted with just as much thought and precision. Mayet, a renowned blow-molding specialist, contributed their expertise in shaping plastic materials — a skill honed through years of creating high-end mascara packaging and other luxury cosmetic components. Their work ensured the plastic details had a sleek, polished finish that matched the flacon’s refined aesthetic. Complementing this was Inca, an industry leader in luxury packaging, specializing in aluminum and plastic components for the perfume and cosmetics markets. Known for their precision and innovative approach to materials, Inca’s contribution brought a modern edge to the bottle’s design, ensuring the plastic accents felt premium and harmonized with the glass structure.

Every component, from the weighty glass to the sleek plastic, was a carefully chosen reflection of Fendi’s identity — bold yet elegant, modern yet timeless. The bottle stands as a physical embodiment of the fragrance: passionate, powerful, and undeniably luxurious, much like the women who wore it.

When introduced, the 28ml parfum retailed for $225. The 50ml Eau de Toilette retailed at $45.

If your box has an original retailer's price tag on it, use this handy guide to help figure out the date according to US department store prices (Note: All prices in parenthesis are adjusted for inflation and are equivalent to 2025's prices):

• 0.47 oz Parfum retailed for $100 ($286.94) from 1987, from 1990 onward it was selling for $110 ($275.50).

• 0.93 oz Parfum retailed for $160 ($459.11) from 1987, the price rose to $165 ($455.04) in 1988.
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray retailed for $42.00 ($120.52) from 1987, the price rose to $45 ($124.10) in 1988, in 1990 it retailed for $47.50 ($118.97).

• 1.7 oz (50ml) Eau de Toilette Spray retailed for $32.00 ($91.82) from 1987, the price rose to $35 ($96.52) in 1988. to 1990, from 1991-1998 it retailed for $37.00 ($87.71-$73.06).

• 3.3 oz (100ml) Eau de Toilette Spray retailed for $45.00 ($129.12) from 1987 to 1990 it retailed for $48.00 ($120.22), from 1991-1998 it retailed for $50.00 ($118.53-$98.73).

• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash retailed for $30.00 ($86.08) from 1987, the price rose to $32.50 ($89.63) in 1988..

• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash retailed for $46.00 ($126.86) from 1988.

• 8.4 oz Perfumed Body Lotion retailed for $35 ($96.52) from 1988, the price rose to $37 ($92.67) in 1990.. 

• 8.4 oz Bath & Shower Gel retailed for $27.50 ($75.84) from 1988.

• 3.5 oz Perfumed Soap retailed for $12.50 ($34.47) from 1988.

• 6.8 oz Body Cream retailed for $50.00 ($131.74) from 1989.

• 5.3 oz Dusting Powder retailed for $35.00 ($87.66) from 1990

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fendi by Fendi’s journey from its launch in 1985 is not only a story of olfactory artistry but also a testament to the complex world of luxury fragrance production and distribution. Initially, the perfume was produced and distributed in the United States by Bethco Fragrances, Inc., a New York-based subdivision of Elizabeth Arden-Fabergé, Inc. Bethco operated as the high-end arm of the company, handling prestigious designer names such as Chloé, Lagerfeld, and, of course, Fendi. This connection ensured that Fendi’s debut fragrance was positioned among the elite of the perfume world — not simply a fashion house’s accessory but a powerful statement of luxury and style.

While Bethco managed the American market, Fendi simultaneously oversaw the fragrance’s production in Italy, ensuring the brand’s Roman roots remained deeply intertwined with its identity. Italian-produced bottles bear the mark "Fendi F.p.d.p SPA Parma" on their labels and packaging, a nod to the production site in Parma, a city renowned for its craftsmanship and artisanal excellence. Meanwhile, distribution across the rest of Europe was handled by Elizabeth Arden SPA Milano, extending the perfume’s reach throughout the continent while maintaining an air of exclusivity.

The landscape shifted in 1989 when Unilever acquired Bethco Fragrances, Inc., marking the beginning of a new era for the distribution and formulation of Fendi by Fendi. For collectors and connoisseurs seeking the original vintage formulation — the true embodiment of the fragrance’s rich, bold spirit — the key lies in the packaging. Boxes and labels from the Bethco era will clearly display the "Bethco" name, an essential detail distinguishing early productions from later reformulations.

By October 1999, the Fendi brand’s trajectory took another pivotal turn when LVMH and Prada collaborated on a $900 million joint acquisition of the Rome-based fashion house. This move not only secured Fendi’s place among the pantheon of luxury giants but also signaled a shift in the fragrance’s production. Later versions of the scent feature packaging marked "Made in Italy" or "Made in France," reflecting changes in manufacturing locations. Notably, two distinct labels emerged — "FENDI PROFUMI SpA FIRENZE" and "F.P.d P PARMA" — each hinting at different production periods and reformulations.

For those chasing the original allure of Fendi by Fendi, these subtle differences in labeling and packaging serve as a historical roadmap, tracing the perfume’s evolution from its opulent debut to its status as a sought-after vintage treasure. Each label, each box, holds a fragment of the fragrance’s rich, ever-evolving story — a story that embodies the passion, mystery, and unrelenting elegance of the Fendi name.