Justine by Louis Feraud c1965

The launch of Louis Féraud’s Justine perfume in 1965 occurred against a backdrop of cultural fascination with exotic locales and cinematic romance. This period was marked by a growing interest in glamorous and distant settings, driven in part by the success of films that explored such themes. The early 1960s were a time when Hollywood was increasingly captivated by the allure of the exotic, often translating these interests into film and fashion.

The film "Justine," which was based on Lawrence Durrell’s celebrated Alexandria Quartet, exemplifies this trend. Set in pre-World War II Alexandria, Egypt, the film starred Anouk Aimée, Dirk Bogarde, Michael York, and Anna Karina. Its narrative, rich with themes of romance, intrigue, and the mystique of the Middle East, was a perfect reflection of the era's cultural preoccupations. Twentieth Century Fox’s decision to involve Louis Féraud in the film's production, not only to design Anouk Aimée's wardrobe but also to create a perfume, underscored the fusion of film, fashion, and fragrance. Féraud’s couture collection for the film, which embraced an extravagant harem look, further highlighted the period’s fascination with opulent and exotic styles.

The name "Justine" was chosen for the perfume to align with the film’s sophisticated and exotic themes. Derived from the Latin name "Justina," meaning "just" or "fair," "Justine" carries connotations of elegance and virtue. In the context of a perfume, it evokes a sense of classic beauty and refined sophistication, making it an ideal choice for capturing the luxurious essence of both the film and the fragrance.

For women of the 1960s, the name "Justine" would have resonated strongly. The era was marked by a desire for sophistication and individuality, and the film’s portrayal of Alexandria with its romantic and sensual allure would have heightened the appeal of a fragrance named after its central character. Women drawn to the era's fashion and cinematic trends would likely have associated the perfume with the film’s exotic charm, enhancing its allure and making it a desirable accessory.

The name "Justine" would have been seen as both unique and evocative in the context of the time. It suggests a blend of classic elegance and modern sophistication, capturing the spirit of the mid-20th century fascination with exoticism. The association with the film’s glamorous portrayal of Alexandria would add to the perfume’s appeal, making it a symbol of refined beauty and romantic allure.

In summary, the launch of Justine in 1965 reflects a period when film and fashion were deeply intertwined, each influencing the other. The perfume’s name, inspired by the film’s central character, captures the essence of an era fascinated by the exotic and glamorous. This connection between film and fragrance underscores how cultural and artistic domains intersected, creating a lasting impact on both industries.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. Rose and jasmine in a zesty, sparkling perfume, a modern woodsy floral scent.

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus, green notes, basil, cascarilla, neroli
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine absolute, tuberose, gardenia, ylang-ylang and lily
• Base notes: nutmeg, civet, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Tonkin musk, Abyssinian civet, maritime pine

Illustrated London News, 1969:

"Justine is another delicious floral perfume, but with a slightly fruity tang about it."

Scent Story:

In the luminous haze of a pre-World War II Alexandria, a city steeped in both ancient grandeur and burgeoning modernity, the creation of a fragrance was unfolding that would forever evoke the mystique and romance of the era. The film "Justine," adapted from Lawrence Durrell’s celebrated Alexandria Quartet, had captured the imagination of audiences and critics alike. It was a cinematic celebration of the opulence and exoticism of Alexandria, bringing together a star-studded cast led by Anouk Aimée, Dirk Bogarde, Michael York, and Anna Karina.

For this cinematic spectacle, Twentieth Century Fox turned to the renowned designer Louis Féraud, not only to craft a wardrobe that would transport viewers to the lush, seductive world of Alexandria but also to create a perfume that would embody its essence. Inspired by the harem's opulence and the city’s tantalizing mystery, Féraud set out to create a fragrance that would be as enchanting and complex as the film itself.

As you step into the world Féraud envisioned, the scene is set in a lavish room of a luxurious Egyptian palace, adorned with intricate mosaic tiles and rich tapestries. The air is heavy with the intoxicating mix of floral and exotic aromas, a reflection of the perfume's complex composition.

The room is awash in golden light filtering through bejeweled lamps, casting a warm glow on the elaborate fabrics draped across the room. Rich colors of crimson, sapphire, and emerald dominate the space, reminiscent of the vibrant hues found in Féraud’s couture collection. Anouk Aimée, in her elaborate harem-inspired wardrobe, moves gracefully, her presence a visual symphony of elegance and sensuality.

The scent of the perfume begins with a burst of aldehydes, offering a fresh and invigorating start. As the aldehydes mix with the zesty citrus and green notes, there’s a crisp and almost sparkling quality to the air, like the initial breath of spring. Basil and cascarilla add an herbal edge, subtly invigorating and grounding the fragrance in an earthy undertone. As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals itself: the Bulgarian rose and Grasse jasmine absolute dominate, their lush floral notes intertwining with the creamy richness of tuberose and gardenia. Ylang-ylang and lily add their exotic, sensual qualities, creating a deeply floral, almost intoxicating aura.

Imagine the taste of a perfectly ripe peach, the sweetness tempered by a hint of citrus zest. It’s a delicate balance of the fresh, green notes and the fuller, richer florals. The taste is sophisticated and lush, a sweet and tangy treat that lingers on the palate, reminiscent of the perfume’s complex heart.

The sounds around you are a blend of soft murmurs and distant melodies—perhaps the strumming of a lute or the gentle rustle of silk. The fragrance’s sparkling top notes are like a lively tune, full of bright notes and a playful rhythm, while the heart notes unfold with a melodious richness, akin to a sweeping orchestral score. The base notes bring a deeper, more resonant tone, echoing the steady beat of a drum in the background.

The texture of the room is luxurious—a silk robe brushing against your skin, the cool, smooth surface of polished marble, and the soft, velvety petals of roses and gardenias, as if you are enveloped in a sensuous embrace. The perfume’s base notes provide a warm, comforting sensation, reminiscent of the embrace of well-worn leather and the softness of a cashmere wrap.

As the fragrance reaches its conclusion, the base notes of nutmeg, civet, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, and Tonkin musk create a rich, warm finish. The Abyssinian civet adds a wild, slightly animalic edge, while maritime pine introduces a crisp, fresh element, like a hint of the Mediterranean breeze.

This perfume, born from the world of "Justine" and Féraud's vision, is not just a scent but a journey through time and place. It captures the essence of Alexandria with its lush floral heart, modern woodsy undertones, and a touch of exotic mystery, making it a timeless tribute to the glamour and allure of the era.

Bottles:

In the late 1960s, the launch of Louis Féraud's perfume, Justine, captured the essence of elegance and sophistication through both its fragrance and its presentation. This enchanting creation is housed in a chunky crystal bottle that exudes a sense of opulence and refinement. The clear-cut crystal design of the bottle adds a timeless quality, making it a striking addition to any vanity. Its matching screw top reflects a thoughtful blend of style and practicality, eliminating the fragility associated with traditional glass stoppers. For those who prefer an alternative to the screw top, the Eau de Toilette version offers the option of a sleek atomizer, providing flexibility and ease of use.

Country Life, 1968:

"Louis Feraud's Justine perfume is contained in a chunky crystal bottle with a matching screw top. The Eau de Toilette on the right is in the same clear-cut crystal, with screw top or atomizer."

 

The fragrance itself is a subtle yet captivating blend of fruits and flowers. The top notes are imbued with a lively, fruity tang, setting the stage for a bouquet of Bulgarian rose, gardenia, and wild aromatic plants that compose the heart of the perfume. This combination creates a scent that is both enchanting and refreshingly sophisticated, capturing the essence of femininity with a modern twist. The base notes of the perfume resonate with a touch of classic charm, balancing the fragrance's floral notes with a sense of depth and allure.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1968:

"New Perfume by Louis Feraud We have received details of Louis Feraud's enchantingly feminine perfume Justine. This new perfume is a subtle blend of fruit and flowers including Bulgarian rose, gardenia and wild aromatic plants. The chunky crystal bottle with its cleverly matching screw top (no more fiddling with glass stoppers that can break) will add a modern elegance to any dressing table. And the matching Eau de Toilette is in the same clear cut crystal. Simply boxed in white, embossed with gold lettering and no-nonsense look, Justine will stand out clearly on the crowded shelves of any perfumery shop."

The packaging complements the perfume’s luxurious nature. Justine is presented in a simple yet chic white box, adorned with gold lettering that adds a hint of glamour without overwhelming the design. This understated packaging ensures that the perfume stands out on the crowded shelves of any perfumery, making it an appealing choice for those seeking both elegance and practicality.

Overall, Louis Féraud's Justine is a fragrance that harmoniously blends classic sophistication with contemporary style. The chunky crystal bottle and the option of a screw top or atomizer enhance the user experience, while the perfume’s exquisite blend of Bulgarian rose, gardenia, and fruity notes makes it a timeless addition to any collection. The simplicity of the packaging, combined with the perfume’s luxurious character, ensures that Justine remains a standout choice for connoisseurs of fine fragrance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Louis Féraud's Justine perfume has left many fragrance enthusiasts and collectors yearning for a scent that has long been a symbol of elegance and sophistication. As the years have passed since its last production, finding a bottle of Justine has become a challenging endeavor. This scarcity is often a bittersweet reminder of the perfume's unique allure and the era it represents.

The fragrance's rare status has turned it into a coveted gem among perfume collectors. Its blend of Bulgarian rose, gardenia, and wild aromatic plants, combined with its luxurious chunky crystal bottle, contributes to its mystique and desirability. The sophisticated scent and elegant packaging make Justine more than just a fragrance; it is a piece of history that evokes nostalgia for its time.

For those who seek this elusive perfume, there are a few potential avenues to explore. Specialty perfume shops that focus on rare or vintage scents may occasionally have a bottle in stock. Online marketplaces such as eBay or dedicated fragrance forums are also good places to search, as collectors and enthusiasts often trade or sell discontinued perfumes. These platforms provide a valuable resource for tracking down hard-to-find scents, though it often requires patience and persistence.

Dedicated fragrance communities, where members share a passion for rare and discontinued perfumes, can also be an invaluable resource. Engaging with these communities can sometimes lead to leads or opportunities to purchase a bottle from fellow enthusiasts. It is often within these circles that rare finds resurface, providing a chance to reconnect with a beloved scent.

In conclusion, while finding a bottle of Louis Féraud's Justine can be challenging due to its discontinuation, the effort can be rewarding for those who hold the perfume in high regard. The search for Justine not only speaks to the perfume's enduring charm but also to the passion of those who appreciate and cherish fine fragrances.