Chaos by Donna Karan c1994

Chaos by Donna Karan: launched in 1994. Created by the perfumers at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF).

Chaos was launched to the press in July of 1996. It was formally introduced to select stores in October 1996.

Karan said, "Chaos has, for me, a double meaning, and just keeping it on the calm side wasn't saying enough. I'm looking to find the calm within the chaos. Out of chaos comes order. It represents what my life is. The part of all of our lives right now. We're all looking for the calm that's in the chaos of our lives. It's like a hurricane, and in the center of the hurricane is the calm. It's about staying centered while the world rages around you." 

The idea of the fragrance was to enhance one's own personal scent, subtly. Chaos, according to Karan was "an obsessively personal expression." Annemarie Iverson, a reporter, in the 1995 book Annals of Improbable Research explains it thus: "To smell Chaos, you must press your nose into the skin of the person wearing it. The idea is to limit the scope of this fragrance to the wearer's most private sphere. Once detected, though, Chaos smells rich and natural, due to its high concentrations of essential oils."

Karan adds, "I didn't want a 'non-scent.' And Chaos is much deeper than a 'non-scent.' It captures the naturalness of the Earth. And there's nothing more emotional than nature." Chaos contained a high percentage of  natural "soothing botanical" essences, actually shown through scientific testing to evoke feelings of tranquility, "happiness and relaxation."  

During test groups selected by the company, 75% of the women polled described the fragrance as "calming, relaxing and centering." Thankfully, this was exactly what the company hoped to hear. 

The company figured that the Chaos fragrance line would bring in over $12 million in its first year.

Karan's jaunts to Cambodia and Vietnam inspired a whole new range of aromatherapy products to turn your home into a personal sanctuary. Launched in September, 1996, the candles and scented pillows in Donna Karan's new Scents & Sensuality home fragrance collection utilized notes from the designer's fine fragrance, Chaos. Karan was an avid user of using incense, aromatic oils and candles to provide scent and a feeling of zen in her home. "It's about sensuality. It's an environment. Diffusion is my main criteria," said Karan. "There's something within all of us that is intimately connected with the natural world - something we lose track of when our lives are spent in the city," Karan added. "These home products are about bringing beauty and balance of natural indoors, back into your life, to touch the senses in a very personal way. It wasn't enough for me that the products looked fabulous. Each and every one had to make you feel fabulous."

"Scents & Sensuality is a natural evolution for our company," said Ruth Anne Miller, Donna Karan's VP of Marketing. Jane Terker, president of the Donna Karan Beauty Company said, "Donna's products are about creating calm, making an environment less stressful and more relaxing. This is part of the same point of view. It's about comfort. I think that's a very compelling concept for people who are always running around." The Scents & Sensuality line was in a more limited distribution than the Chaos line itself. It was only to be retailed in 300 doors.

Patti Cohen, senior vice president of the Donna Karan Co., said that the home collection "is based on aromatherapy and nature" and that "Donna would design computers if she felt she could make a difference. But home fragrance is a natural extension to what we have been doing." She revealed that the company hired a home furnishing development director who "is exploring a wide variety of products from textiles to furniture." 

Two scented candles imbued with aromatherapeutic oils derived from the accords in the Chaos formula were released: Calming (a cinnamon and spice scent with lavender, chamomile, and rosemary) and the other, Invigorating (an herbal, musky incense scent with peppermint and orange peel) in earthy, neutral hues to enhance your home.  

The candles were infused with rosemary, peppermint, chamomile, magnolia, lavender, rose, orange peel, incense, amber, white sage and saffron. First to be rolled out were 150,000 miniature candles, in both the Calm and Invigorating scents, to sample the home line. Meant to be the lead items in the Karan home fragrance line, the company believed these would be the best selling items.  "We wanted the candles to have the quality of a fine fragrance," said Terker. "Most candles on the market have a single-note fragrance, like peach."

These thick, hand poured candles were available in several geometric shapes: chunky square blocks, rectangular pillars, tall columns and shorter cylindrical pillars. The Invigorating candles, in short and tall shapes, were available in two different colors: New Black and Ivory. The Calming candles, in square and oval shapes, were found in the Taupe and Chartreuse colors. Prices ranged from $42 to $58. Other items included a set of four travel candles priced at $35. The candles were scented in a way that, unlike other brands, wouldn't overpower your home. Karan said that the candles "are all about helping yourself feel wonderful. It's so important to care for the inner self as well as the outer self to feel truly balanced. For me, there's no better way to do that than to surround yourself with exquisite scents."

The most expensive items in the Scents & Sensuality line, retailing at $225, were large, luxurious black cashmere unscented sleeping pillows stuffed with buckwheat hulls. Medium sized sleeping pillows, also stuffed with buckwheat hulls were available in black cashmere or taupe suede ad retailed for $165. A neck supporting pillow in shades of black or taupe, retailed for $85. I remember during this time, that buckwheat was used as trendy pillow stuffing, although it had been used for centuries in Asian countries. 

Smaller pillows, priced at $75, were also available in cashmere, Egyptian cotton, suede leather or satin. These pillows, cute decorative accents, each measuring 7"x7" square, could be enhanced by the insertion of a scent-saturated piece of cloth. They were available in the two fragrance categories. The Calming pillows were available in white leather, grey suede and platinum satin. The Invigorating pillows were available in black cashmere, taupe suede and rust satin.

Also sold were nine finely spun organza sachets for tucking into dresser drawers, containing a blend of herbs and flowers in three different scents: Relaxing, Sweet Dreams and Energizing. A set of three retailed for $75. A set of Donna Karan's Chaos Aroma-Sticks promoted a traditional sense of zen for the home.

Eye pillows, of cool  to the touch satin, meant to soothe tired eyes, were great items to use during long flights or overnight stays. The $48 eye pillows were overstuffed into a unique bow tie shape, and of a neutral tone of taupe. It was filled with a special blend of lavender and flax seed to help relieve eye strain and tension.

Non-scented items included black glass decorative plates, retailing for $40, meant for holding the scented candles. "The line is going to evolve from year to year, we'll always do a black candle and a white candle, but the rest could change," said Terker.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental (amber) fragrance for women, a fresh, woodsy scent with warm cinnamon, lavender and a hint of incense.

Warm, soothing and sensual aroma therapeutic essences that promote feelings of balance and calm. An herbal blend of lavender, sage, chamomile and coriander, known for their soothing benefits, is woven throughout the fragrance, creating a lasting impression of serenity and calm. Middle note is a blend of exotic incense, inspired by sacred temples of the Orient that instill a feeling of inner peace. Meditating mystic woods such as creamy sandalwood and lightly aromatic Indian padauk wood promote balance and equilibrium. Sensual spices - saffron, cardamom, cinnamon and clove - are enhanced by amber and musk.

• Top notes: coriander, chamomile, lavender, sage
• Middle notes: incense, carnation, cinnamon, saffron, clove, cardamom
• Base notes: padauk wood, sandalwood, musk, amber

The rather extreme amount of 5% of Givaudan's Sandalore (4.81) was used in the development of Chaos. This aromatic essence possesses a more powerful and more natural smelling sandalwood odor.

Bottle:

Donna Karan's husband, sculptor, Stephan Weiss created the asymmetrical bottle to look like a natural crystal shard, evokes the healing power of crystals. Glass maker, Brosse provided the molded, clear glass bottles.

Modeled after the 0.5 oz parfum flacon, the 0.25 oz purse size spray retains a glass base has a shatterproof, lightweight clear plastic cap, made from DuPont's Surlyn, precision tooled and injection molded by Augros. It friction-fits over the pump sprayer, provided by Valois in a custom silver matte color that enhances the crystal image. Brosse supplies the custom-designed glass base. Housed inside of a silk pouch, meant to be carried in the purse or travel bag. It is a laydown bottle, which means it rests horizontally on flat surfaces.

Chaos was available in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum Purse Spray (retailed for $75)
• 0.5 oz Parfum (retailed for $185)
• 1 oz Parfum
• 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (retailed for $35)
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray(retailed for $50)
• 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray (retailed for $75)
• 3 oz Balancing Body Lotion  
• 5 oz Balancing Body Lotion  
• 2 oz Comforting Mineral & Salt Soak
• Comforting Mineral & Salt Soak
• 10 oz Moisturizing Antibacterial Body Cleanser (launched in 1997)
• 5 oz Calming Bath Bar

Flankers:

Chaos Sense & Sensuality collection was a home fragrance line whose products utilized notes from the Chaos perfume. The home collection included candles and scented pillows.

In 1997, the The Chaos Essential Oils Kits were released based on certain ingredients found in the Chaos perfume. Each kit contain fours vials of pre-blended essential oils which were packaged in a suede pouch, Karan's favorite fabric.

There were three kits available: Sensuality, Inspiration and Relaxation.

• SENSUALITY I: Ylang Ylang Essential Oil; Soybean Oil
• SENSUALITY II: Essential Oils of Lavender, Rose and Neroli; Soybean Oil
• SENSUALITY III: Essential Oils of Patchouli and Nutmeg; Soybean Oil
• SENSUALITY IV: Essential Oils of Vanilla and Jasmine; Soybean Oil
• RELAXATION:
• INSPIRATION III: Essential Oils of Basil and Anise

Watermist:

Watermist, a line of subtly scented body sprays was released as part of the Chaos Sense & Sensuality collection, released in 1997. The Watermists are all discontinued, though you may be able to track some down on the internet.

Donna Karan had expanded her fragrance collection with Watermists, three water light scents derived from fresh flowers and herbs with aromatherapeutic benefits. The watermists were free of oil, alcohol, or additives. "From Chaos comes the new collection of pure, natural scents distilled directly from fresh flowers and herbs. Since Watermists are 100 percent natural and contain no alcohol, they can be sprayed all over the body, even the face."

 The scents included:

• Petal
• Leaf
• Nectar

Petal Watermist is based on the soothing scent of the Bulgarian damask rose for calming. Distilled from the Damask rose, highly prized for both its fragrance and its balancing effects on the skin and senses. Produced in Bulgaria, where the finest quality rose distillations originate, its sensual scent comforts and renews, it also helps rejuvenate and soothe all skin types.

Nectar Watermist is derived from sweet neroli flowers of the bitter orange tree to promote tranquility. Originates from the fragrant flowers of the bitter orange tree, also known as neroli - so named in the 1600s for the Countess of Neroli. renowned for its ability to evoke feelings of tranquility, neroli's sweet fragrance helps soothe away anxiety and stress. Helps tone and improve skin's texture.

Leaf Watermist features an invigorating blend of essentials waters from eight energizing plants and herbs.  An exclusive blend of essential waters from eight different flowers and plants - combined to energize the body and spirit. Its fresh, uplifting scent brings with it the renewing qualities of rose, the rejuvenating benefits of melissa and sage, and peppermint's revitalizing properties. Helps rejuvenate the skin.

Rain Watermist. Essential waters of chamomile, lavender, neroli and lemon verbena combine in a relaxing scent that helps the mind destress and the body unwind. This exclusive blend draws upon the natural benefits of chamomile and lavender - both used for centuries for their ability to soothe body and mind - enhanced with neroli's calming qualities and lemon verbena's refreshing aroma. A relaxing blend that also helps to comfort and condition the skin.

Prices ranged from $28 for the 4 oz bottle and $45 for the 8 oz bottle.

The Watermist fragrance line was manufactured for Donna Karan by Allure Cosmetics of San Leandro, California and Herba Aromatica Hayward California, importer of scented floral waters.

The Nectar fragrance was discontinued in 1997 as the Donna Karan Beauty Co. discovered that it contained Burkholderia cepacia. According to the Food and Drug Association spokesman, Arthur Whitmore, the pathogen colonizes in the lungs and can be fatal to people with respiratory diseases such as cystic fibrosis. The Donna Karan Beauty Company notified the FDA immediately and  recalled the products after only a few weeks on the shelves.

Donna Karan Cosmetics provided the following product recall information.

"PRODUCT Nectar Watermist a non alcohol body spray made from natural distilled water extracted from blossoms of orange trees packaged into .5 ounce, 4 ounce, 8 ounce, and 16 ounce glass bottles."

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1998, Donna Karan sold her business to Estee Lauder and in turn, the first item on the chopping block was Chaos. The aroma-therapy candle collection was discontinued shortly after. The original version of Chaos can be hard to find, but paying extortion-like prices for it today just isn't worth it. 

In 2008, Donna Karan released Chaos as a limited edition in only a few exclusive shops, but as of 2017, it too has been discontinued.