Sunday, December 29, 2019

Ivoire de Balmain c1979

Ivoire de Balmain: launched in 1979. Created by Michel Hy and Francis Camail of Florasynth. Pierre Balmain stated that he was inspired by his lifelong "desire to create elegance and beauty for women." First distributed by Revlon in the United States. In 1985, Balmain Perfumes was acquired from Revlon by Cobepa, the Belgian subsidiary of Paribas. Jacques Bergerac (the brother of Michel, the ex-number one of Revlon) remains the CEO.





This fragrance was allegedly inspired by the sight of a beautiful British woman at the Paris Opera in 1978. She was dressed in pale white silk, which provided a radiant contrast to the rich black tuxedos and deep carmine upholstery of her surroundings.

He mentioned that he created the perfume with the particular memory of that woman, he said she was "dressed in white, lavished with pearls. Seated upon a crimson lounge, her languid and slightly haughty elegance overcame the starkness of the black formal attire which surrounded her. It was at this moment, as the overture began and the house lights dimmed, that I dreamed of creating a perfume for her."


Art & Design magazine stated in 1986, that Balmain "has recently negotiated the purchase of the range from Revlon by a Belgian Banking Group of the COBEPA. The best-seller in the luxury range is undoubtedly Ivoire created in memory of Queen Sirikit of Thailand, one of his favourite clients."



Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is described as a soft fresh green fruity floral woody fragrance for women. An intriguing floral with spicy and woodsy hints. It opens with bergamot, galbanum and ylang ylang then softens into a charming mix of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose otto, orange blossom and orris ending with a softly lingering of vetiver, sandalwood and amber.

It begins with a green aldehydic top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a powdery, sensual base. Bergamot, galbanum, cinnamon and wormwood. The floral character is essence of ylang ylang and chamomile. The mid notes include jasmine, lily of the valley, rose otto, orange blossom and orris. Also vetiver, sandalwood, liatrix and amber.

Original formula:
  • Top notes: jasmine, aldehydes, chamomile, asafoetida, galbanum, mandarin orange, violet, artemisia, marigold, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, orchid, nutmeg, neroli, jonquil, carnation, cinnamon, narcissus, pepper berry, orris root, geranium, Turkish rose absolute, orange blossom absolute, Tuscany ylang-ylang and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes: olibanum, labdanum, wormwood, cedar, liatrix, frankincense, sandalwood, tonka bean, ambergris, patchouli, musk, raspberry, vanilla, oakmoss, vetiver and incense. 

Pierre Balmain described the fragrance, "It captures a dream of my long life of a certain kind of elegance, a mixture of exotic and up-to-date, it is for somebody of our times, but looking to the future."

Balmain made use of the aroma chemical Cashmeran by IFF in its famous Ivoire fragrance. Although there are woody-musky notes to Cashmeran, its odor is complex with notes that are: rich spicy, fruity, chypre, balsamic and vanilla, overall intended to convey the soft sensuous feeling of cashmere (hence the trade name Cashmeran). You may recognize the scent in other fragrances such as Givenchy's Amarige, Kenzo's Jungle Elephant and Thierry Mugler's Alien, three of my favorite perfumes.


Available as:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum
  • 1 oz Parfum in Crystal Decanter
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 1.7 oz Body Creme Parfumee 
  • 8 1/3 oz Body Creme Parfumee 
  • 6.8 oz Bath & Shower Foaming Oil
  • 5.3 oz Perfumed Soap




Bottles:


The bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand in 1979. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. The plastic components were supplied by MBF Plastiques.

Please use the guide below to help you determine how old your bottle is.
  • If there is a barcode on the box, this perfume dates to after 1989. 
  • Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the box.
  • From 1998-2003, a short list of ingredients are listed on the box.
  • By 2004, there will be a long list of ingredients listed on the box.
  • Finally, review the photos below to give approximate dates for bottles and packaging.






Limited Edition Bottle:


Gorgeous cut crystal perfume bottle manufactured by Cristalleries Saint -Louis and held 1 oz Parfum. This fine Crystal Decanter was from the Collection de Imperatrice and was a limited edition of only 500 examples. It  retailed for $400 in 1984.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Ivoire was reformulated in 1999 by Michel Almairac and Jacques Flori into a fruity floral woody fragrance for women.


In 2012, Ivoire de Balmain was simply named Ivoire, reformulated, repackaged and relaunched. This was to be the brand’s first launch under new licensing arrangements with InterParfums.

From Balmain:
"Ivoire, quintessence of a dream, Ivoire is a floral bouquet, as a tribute to the beauty of women. The fragrance opens with a deliciously intoxicating fruity note of mandarin and orange essence. The floral accord dresses the aerial heart of the fragrance. Its woody trail sublimate the elegance and sensuality of women."




So what does the reformulated version smell like? It is classified as a green floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: orange and mandarin, violet leaves
  • Middle notes: ylang ylang, jasmine, rose, pepper and galbanum 
  • Base notes: vetiver, cedarwood, patchouli, incense and vanilla

Available as:
  • 0.15 oz Parfum 
  • 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray

Eau d’Ivoire was released in 2000. A fresh green floral fragrance for women.

Top notes: bergamot, green freesia, mandarin
Middle notes: ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
Base notes: raspberry, amber, oakmoss, musk, vanilla



Eau d’Ivoire was reformulated and relaunched in 2013. An edt with notes of bergamot, red currant, osmanthus, magnolia, musk ambrettolide and patchouli. Presented in 50 ml bottle.


Time Line to Date Your Bottle:


Please use the guide below to help you determine how old your bottle is.
  • Revlon purchased the Balmain fragrance license in 1960 and held it until 2012.
  • Ivoire de Balmain was first launched in 1979, in USA in 1981.
  • If there is a barcode on the box, this perfume dates to after 1989. 
  • Starting in 1992, the Green Dot recycling symbol will appear on the box.
  • From 1998-2003, a short list of ingredients are listed on the box.
  • By 2004, there will be a long list of ingredients listed on the box.
  • Eau d'Ivoire was first launched in 2000.
  • Ivoire de Balmain was simply named Ivoire, reformulated, repackaged and relaunched in 2012 and you can find the Interparfums name on packaging. 
  • Eau d'Ivoire was reformulated and repackaged as an eau de toilette in a 50ml size bottle in 2013.

Finally, review the photos in this article to give approximate dates for bottles and packaging. 

CLICK HERE TO FIND IVOIRE BY BALMAIN ON EBAY

2 comments:

  1. Dear Grace, would you happen to know who the original manufacturer/distributor was when this fragrance was first launched in the US? Many thanks! Barb

    ReplyDelete

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