Yendi by Capucci c1972

Launched in 1972, Yendi by Capucci is a fragrance that encapsulates the spirit of its era—a time of glamour, sophistication, and shifting societal norms. But why the name Yendi? The word itself is exotic, unfamiliar, and evocative. Yendi is thought to originate from Turkish or African linguistic roots, though its precise meaning remains elusive, adding to its air of mystery. Pronounced "YEN-dee", the name rolls off the tongue smoothly, its soft yet striking syllables suggesting something luxurious, sensuous, and enigmatic. It conjures images of faraway lands, opulent fabrics, and the allure of an untamed femininity, making it an intriguing choice for a fragrance meant to seduce and captivate.

The early 1970s were a time of cultural transformation. The world was emerging from the psychedelic excess of the late 1960s into a new era of bohemian refinement, high glamour, and bold self-expression. This period, often referred to as the glam era or the start of the disco decade, saw a blend of old-world elegance and modern sensuality. Fashion reflected this shift—designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Halston introduced fluid, body-skimming silhouettes, plunging necklines, and rich, tactile fabrics such as velvet and silk. Women were embracing both liberation and femininity, effortlessly oscillating between tailored suits and flowing chiffon gowns. In perfumery, the 1970s ushered in bolder, richer compositions, as women sought fragrances that exuded confidence, sensuality, and a touch of mystery.

In this context, Yendi was both a product of its time and an exceptional creation. Developed by Jean-Louis Sieuzac, a perfumer known for his mastery of deep, sophisticated blends, it was classified as a floral fragrance with an aldehydic-fruity top, an elegant floral heart, and a lingering, powdery base. The choice of ingredients was sumptuous and globally inspired, transporting the wearer through an olfactory journey of luxury and intrigue.

The top notes sparkle with aldehydes, lending a crisp, champagne-like effervescence that was a hallmark of classic French perfumery. These aldehydes lift the fruity notes, adding a radiant quality that would have felt modern and refined to the women of the early 1970s, accustomed to the bold but often heavier chypres of the previous decade.

The heart of the fragrance blooms into a rich bouquet of white florals, centered on jasmine from the French Riviera and orange blossom from Calabria. French jasmine is known for its deeply narcotic, indolic character, a heady sweetness that feels both carnal and sophisticated. Calabrian orange blossom, sun-drenched and luminous, provides a honeyed freshness, balancing the intensity of the jasmine. This floral pairing would have resonated with the confident, sensuous woman of the time, who sought perfumes that were not simply pretty, but alluring and bold.

The base is where Yendi’s true magic unfolds—a powdery, languorous blend of exotic warmth and feminine sensuality. The earthy depth of patchouli from Penang infuses the fragrance with a bohemian richness, evoking the glamorous yet free-spirited women of the era. Vetiver from the Bourbon Islands (now Réunion) brings a smooth, smoky elegance, grounding the floral notes with an understated sophistication. Then come the spices—cascarilla and cinnamon, which add an unmistakable warmth, a whisper of exotic lands, and an air of mystery.

For women of the time, Yendi would have embodied sensual confidence and worldly sophistication. Its name, exotic and undefined, would have appealed to the woman who sought to leave an impression—who wanted a fragrance that was modern yet timeless, seductive yet elegant. It was not the fresh, citrusy scent of a daytime ingénue, nor the overt, heady opulence of an old-school chypre. Instead, Yendi was a statement of refinement, allure, and quiet strength—a fragrance that felt as at home in a dimly lit Parisian bar as it did in the grand halls of a Milanese fashion house.

As for Roberto Capucci, the man behind the fragrance, he was no ordinary designer. An Italian couturier known for his architectural, sculptural approach to fashion, Capucci’s creations defied convention, blending dramatic silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and artistic precision. His choice to launch Yendi was in keeping with his vision of refined extravagance, offering women not just a fragrance, but an experience—one of elegance, sensuality, and intrigue.

In the grand landscape of 1970s perfumery, Yendi held its own. While rich florals, aldehydes, and oriental influences were present in other fragrances of the era, its specific composition—a shimmering opening, an opulent floral heart, and a spiced, powdery dry down—set it apart as a fragrance of distinction. It was neither aggressively chypre nor overly gourmand, but instead occupied a luxurious middle ground of mystery and sophistication.

Today, Yendi remains a forgotten gem, a testament to an era when perfumes were crafted with opulence, longevity, and a touch of the exotic. It was a scent for the woman who did not follow trends, but instead embodied an air of timeless allure, much like the fragrance itself.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Yendi by Capucci is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with an aldehydic fruity top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery, feminine base. Modern, sensual, lingering, languorous scent - jasmine from the French Riviera, orange blossoms from Calabria, patchouli from Penang, vetiver from the Bourbon Islands, spice notes from cascarilla and cinnamon.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Italian bergamot, Egyptian hyacinth, Chinese peach, raspberry, Japanese honeysuckle, citron
• Middle notes: Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Calabrian orange blossom, French Riviera jasmine, Grasse rose, Provencal honey, Alpine lily of the valley, Mexican cyclamen, Zanzibar clove buds, Florentine orris, Dutch orchid
• Base notes: Paraguayan gaiac wood, Sudanese myrrh, Bourbon vetiver, Penang patchouli, Bahamian cascarilla bark, Vietnamese cinnamon, Mysore sandalwood, Tonkin musk, Lebanese cedar, ambergris, Sumatran styrax, Madagascar vanilla, Tyrolean oakmoss, Siamese benzoin, Bourbon vetiver

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Yendi is a luminous, effervescent rush, where aldehydes shimmer like champagne bubbles, lifting the fragrance with a crisp, almost icy brilliance. These aldehydes, synthetic molecules that impart a soapy, airy sharpness, contrast beautifully with the natural richness of Italian bergamot—a citrus note prized for its complex balance of brightness and bitterness. From the sun-drenched groves of Calabria, this bergamot is softer, more floral than its counterparts, lending a refined sparkle.

Then, a cascade of Egyptian hyacinth unfurls, its intoxicating green floralcy reminiscent of crushed spring petals and dewy stems. Egyptian varieties of hyacinth tend to have an almost narcotic sweetness, amplified by the addition of Chinese peach, which adds a velvety, nectar-like fruitiness. Unlike the sun-warmed ripeness of Mediterranean peaches, the Chinese variety is more delicate, tinged with a subtle muskiness. This fruitiness is deepened further by the tart-sweet interplay of raspberry, a bright note that adds a lively, juicy contrast.

Drifting through this opening is the soft, creamy floral presence of Japanese honeysuckle, a variety known for its honeyed, lightly indolic character. It intertwines with the zesty citron, a citrus note sharper and more resinous than lemon, adding an almost crystalline clarity. The result is an opening that is both luminous and rich, a contradiction of airy aldehydes and succulent fruits, setting the stage for the grand floral heart.

As Yendi develops, the floral bouquet takes center stage—sumptuous, decadent, and unmistakably feminine. The ylang-ylang from Nossi-Be, an island off Madagascar, is particularly opulent, its banana-like creaminess and exotic spice lending the composition a sensual warmth. This intertwines with the sunlit radiance of Calabrian orange blossom, a flower whose honeyed brightness evokes Mediterranean orchards in full bloom. Together, these florals form a lush, narcotic embrace, wrapping around the iconic French Riviera jasmine—a variety known for its deeply indolic intensity, its scent teetering between decadence and danger.

Softening the narcotic richness of these florals is Grasse rose, one of the most prestigious rose varieties in the world, known for its rich, velvety depth. The Alpine lily of the valley, with its delicate, green-tinged sweetness, adds a whisper of innocence, while Mexican cyclamen, a more peppery floral, introduces a crisp, fresh nuance. Adding unexpected spice is Zanzibar clove bud, its warm, slightly smoky intensity tempering the composition, giving the heart an edge of mystery.

Threaded throughout is the powdery, violet-tinged elegance of Florentine orris, one of perfumery’s most prized materials. Harvested from the rhizomes of iris plants and aged for years before distillation, Florentine orris possesses an unmistakable buttery, suede-like softness, seamlessly connecting the florals to the rich, textured base. Adding a final unexpected twist is Dutch orchid, a rare note that brings a waxy, almost creamy depth to the bouquet, ensuring that the florals remain both soft and intoxicating.

As Yendi dries down, the fragrance shifts into an opulent, lingering embrace of woods, resins, and sensual musk. The Paraguayan gaiac wood introduces a smoky, almost leathery depth, complemented by the balsamic richness of Sudanese myrrh, an ingredient known for its dark, resinous warmth. Bourbon vetiver, sourced from the volcanic soil of Réunion (formerly Bourbon Island), adds a green, slightly smoky elegance, its earthy facets balancing the sweeter notes.

The exotic darkness of Penang patchouli, cultivated in Malaysia, is evident in its smooth, chocolate-like earthiness, deeper and more refined than patchouli from India. Meanwhile, the Bahamian cascarilla bark, a rare and complex material, imparts a resinous, almost peppery warmth, seamlessly blending with the fiery Vietnamese cinnamon, which carries a spiced, gourmand-like heat.

The woody notes are further enriched by Lebanese cedar, a variety that possesses a drier, crisper aroma than its Atlas or Himalayan counterparts. The addition of Mysore sandalwood, revered for its creamy, almost milky smoothness, enhances the sensuality of the base, creating a backdrop for the shimmering depth of ambergris—a note that brings an almost salty, oceanic muskiness.

Sumatran styrax, a resin with deep, balsamic undertones, lends a sweet, smoky richness, while Madagascar vanilla, with its spicy, bourbon-like warmth, rounds out the composition with a soft, lingering sweetness. The Tyrolean oakmoss, sourced from the mountainous forests of Austria, anchors the fragrance in a chypre-like earthiness, its mossy, damp nuances balancing the radiant florals. Finally, Siamese benzoin, with its caramelized, incense-like warmth, smooths the entire composition into a seamless, enveloping dry down.

The result is a fragrance that lingers like a whispered memory, a scent both powerful and tender, modern yet timeless. Yendi is a journey through continents and sensations—a fragrance of contrasts, of delicate florals against deep, resinous warmth, of radiant aldehydes melting into earthy sensuality. Each note has been carefully chosen not just for its individual beauty, but for the way it enhances and transforms the others, creating a fragrance that is truly unforgettable.

Bottles:

The bottles were designed by sculptor Serge Mansau and produced in France by Pochet et du Courval.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1972, Yendi by Roberto Capucci was a fragrance that embodied the sophisticated sensuality of its time. It arrived at the dawn of the 1970s, a decade of transition—where the opulence of the late 1960s gave way to a more liberated, self-expressive era. Women were embracing newfound freedoms in fashion, lifestyle, and beauty, and Yendi catered to this shift with its bold yet refined composition. This floral chypre was both modern and timeless, a scent that lingered on the skin with an air of effortless glamour.

Though its discontinuation date remains unknown, Yendi was still available in 1993, a testament to its enduring appeal. The fact that it remained on the market for over two decades suggests that it cultivated a devoted following—one that appreciated its intricate balance of aldehydic brightness, floral opulence, and a rich, powdery base. Fragrances of the 1970s often leaned into complexity, layering natural and synthetic ingredients in ways that felt both sophisticated and innovative. Yendi was no exception; it stood alongside other bold chypres of the era but maintained a distinct identity through its masterful blend of fruits, florals, and exotic woods.

Its disappearance from the market remains something of a mystery. By the 1990s, perfumery was shifting towards lighter, more transparent compositions, favoring fresh, aquatic, and sheer floral scents over the depth and richness of classic chypres. Perhaps Yendi was a victim of changing trends, or perhaps its discontinuation was due to shifts in production, ingredient regulations, or brand strategy. Whatever the reason, its absence has only added to its allure. Today, it exists as a sought-after relic of a bygone era—an olfactory time capsule that speaks to a period of confident femininity and exquisite craftsmanship.