Arlequinade by Rosine c1919

Arlequinade by Rosine, launched in 1919 and introduced to the American market in 1923, was a fragrance born from the artistic and cultural renaissance that defined the early 20th century. The name Arlequinade is derived from the French word arlequinade (pronounced ar-luh-kee-NAHD), which refers to the antics or performances of Harlequin, a central figure in the Commedia dell'Arte. This theatrical tradition, with its masked characters and vibrant, exaggerated performances, originated in Italy and flourished in France, inspiring countless artists, writers, and designers—including Paul Poiret. The word Arlequinade evokes a world of playful deception, mischief, and romance, conjuring images of diamond-patterned costumes, masked balls, and the whimsical yet cunning personality of Harlequin himself. It suggests a fragrance that is both intriguing and unpredictable, much like the character it references.

The perfume's debut coincided with a dynamic cultural period—Les Années Folles (The Roaring Twenties), an era of artistic experimentation, modernism, and social liberation. World War I had ended, and society was undergoing a dramatic transformation, particularly for women. This was the age of the flapper, a woman who rejected Victorian constraints in favor of short dresses, bobbed hair, and an independent spirit. Art, music, and fashion were infused with influences from Cubism, Futurism, and Art Deco, reflecting a fascination with bold shapes, geometric designs, and a break from tradition. Against this backdrop, perfumery embraced more daring compositions, moving away from the delicate floral scents of the Belle Époque toward richer, spicier, and more complex blends.

For women of the time, a perfume named Arlequinade would have carried connotations of intrigue and sophistication. It suggested a scent for a woman who was confident, a little mysterious, and perhaps even playful—much like the modern woman of the 1920s who challenged conventions. The description of the fragrance in 1928 further reinforced this image: it was meant for the “piquant type,” a woman with dark hair and gray-green eyes, possessing an allure that was both sharp and sweet, much like the scent itself. Henri Alméras composed Arlequinade as a piquant, woody floral amber, with an unusual spicy-sweet character reminiscent of velvety petunias mingling with other garden flowers. Compared to the powdery aldehydic florals that would later dominate the decade, this composition stood out as bolder, richer, and perhaps more dramatic—fitting for a name evoking theatricality.

Paul Poiret’s choice of Harlequin and the Commedia dell’Arte as inspiration for a fragrance was deeply rooted in his artistic vision. Poiret was not just a couturier but a designer who saw fashion as part of a greater artistic movement. He was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde, particularly Cubism, which deconstructed traditional forms into geometric abstraction. One of the most striking representations of this aesthetic was Pablo Picasso’s Harlequin, a figure that captured the fragmented, modernist energy of the time. Just as Picasso reimagined Harlequin through Cubist angles and colors, Poiret translated the same spirit into fragrance—an olfactory Cubism, if you will, where floral, woody, and amber facets combined to create something unexpected and dynamic.

Arlequinade was not merely a perfume; it was a reflection of an era that embraced change, theatricality, and artistic rebellion. It embodied the essence of the 1920s woman—confident, modern, and unafraid to be noticed. Whether through its composition or its name, Arlequinade was a scent designed to intrigue and seduce, much like the masked trickster it was named for.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Arlequinade by Rosine is classified as a piquant, woody floral amber fragrance for women. 

It was described in 1928 as "for the piquant type, with rather dark hair and gray green eyes, an intriguing blend which has the rare spicy sweet fragrance of old fashioned, velvety petunias mixed with other garden flowers."

• Top notes: C-12 MNA aldehyde, Zanzibar clove, Calabrian bergamot, petunia, Mexican hibiscus, Sicilian lemon, Guinea orange, benzaldehyde, narcissus
• Middle notes: iso-eugenol, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Maltese labdanum, Indian tuberose, benzyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde, methyl benzoate, Jordanian almond
• Base notes: Bourbon vanilla, vanillin, Bohemian oakmoss, Sudanese myrrh, Somali opoponax, spices, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, Seychelles patchouli, Venezuelan tonka bean, Peruvian heliotrope, coumarin, "Opoponax LG" (Givaudan)

Scent Profile:

 

Arlequinade by Rosine is a fragrance that unfolds like a theatrical performance—dynamic, full of contrast, and steeped in mystery. The first breath of its opening notes is a luminous burst of aldehydes, specifically C-12 MNA, an aldehyde known for its metallic brightness and effervescent sparkle. It is crisp, clean, and slightly soapy, like sunlight glinting off satin. This shimmer is immediately disrupted by the sharp, aromatic warmth of Zanzibar clove. The clove from this region is particularly prized for its rich eugenol content, lending a depth that is almost medicinal at first, then rounds out into a warm, peppery spice that tingles the senses. 

The citrus medley of Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and Guinea orange follows, bright and juicy, but never overly sweet. Calabrian bergamot, known for its complexity, is floral yet tart, its green edge enhancing the crispness of the aldehydes. Sicilian lemon, more aromatic than other varieties, adds an invigorating zest, while Guinea orange—less common in perfumery—introduces a slightly bitter-sweet, tangy quality, reminiscent of sun-warmed citrus groves.

At the heart of this introduction lies a surprising floral element—petunia, a note rarely used in modern perfumery. The scent of petunia is velvety and slightly powdery, with an unusual spicy-green nuance that hints at crushed leaves and warm summer air. It is softened by the crimson tang of Mexican hibiscus, whose tart, slightly fruity essence mingles with the luminous greenness of narcissus. The narcissus here is rich and heady, evoking freshly cut stems and a honeyed, earthy depth. Interwoven among these florals is benzaldehyde, which adds a soft, almond-like aroma, a fleeting impression of crushed cherry pits and marzipan, lending a gourmand facet to this otherwise spicy, green opening.

As the fragrance develops, the heart blooms into a rich tapestry of spices, florals, and resins. Iso-eugenol amplifies the clove facets from the top notes, deepening the warmth with a peppery intensity that pairs beautifully with the fiery French carnation. Unlike other carnations, the French variety is known for its exceptionally spicy, almost cinnamon-like sweetness, adding a vintage sophistication. Grasse jasmine, harvested in the perfume capital of the world, unfurls its indolic, creamy white petals, merging seamlessly with the opulent honeyed rose from Bulgaria. The combination is lush, hypnotic, and sensual—an intoxicating bouquet that feels both romantic and slightly mischievous.

Maltese labdanum, rich and balsamic, anchors the florals with its leathery warmth, wrapping the heart in a resinous, slightly animalic embrace. Indian tuberose, known for its narcotic, waxen sweetness, adds an almost decadent richness, further intensified by benzyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde, and methyl benzoate—molecules that enhance the natural radiance of white flowers, creating an effect that is simultaneously luminous and deep. The Jordanian almond note reintroduces the soft, nutty whisper of benzaldehyde, its creamy, slightly bitter facets echoing through the composition like a delicate undercurrent.

As the fragrance settles into its base, Arlequinade transforms into something darker, more mysterious. Bourbon vanilla, sourced from Madagascar, unfolds with a deep, boozy richness, enhanced by the slightly powdery sweetness of vanillin. Bohemian oakmoss lends a mossy, damp forest-like quality, its earthy depth grounding the composition and hinting at the chypre structures that dominated the era. Sudanese myrrh and Somali opoponax weave through this earthy base like golden threads, their balsamic, slightly smoky sweetness lingering on the skin like the embers of an extinguished candle. The opoponax here includes the specialized "Opoponax LG" base from Givaudan, a refined extraction that heightens the warmth and smoothness of this resinous note.

A swirl of exotic spices emerges, their heat tempered by the salty-skin warmth of ambergris. Tibetan musk, rare and animalic, adds a sensual, almost human quality, while Mysore sandalwood—the most prized variety of sandalwood in the world—wraps the entire composition in a soft, creamy woodiness, its rich lactonic smoothness unparalleled. Seychelles patchouli, darker and earthier than other varieties, provides a smoky, almost chocolate-like depth, intertwining with Venezuelan tonka bean, whose caramelized, hay-like warmth enhances the vanillic sweetness. Peruvian heliotrope brings a final touch of powdery almond-vanilla softness, its coumarin content lending a whisper of sun-dried grass and the faintest trace of freshly cut hay.

Arlequinade is a scent of contrasts—light and dark, spice and sweetness, vintage and modern. It is a fragrance that flickers like a harlequin’s ever-changing mask, revealing new facets with every movement, every turn of the skin. It is mischievous, dramatic, yet undeniably elegant, an olfactory performance that lingers long after the curtain has fallen.

Bottles:

The perfume bottle designed by Arlequinade drew direct inspiration from the harlequin costume crafted by the artist Marie Vasilyeff.

 

Among the fragrant treasures highlighted in the article is Arlequinade, a scent that undoubtedly left an indelible mark on the olfactory landscape of the time. Described as being housed in an exquisitely adorned gold flask, complete with a charming red tassel, Arlequinade is portrayed as the epitome of elegance and sophistication.

Priced at $25, this fragrance is not merely a perfume but a luxurious indulgence, encapsulating the essence of Parisian chic and refinement. It is a testament to the artistry of Rosine and the enduring appeal of French perfumery, offering a sensory experience that transcends time and place.

With its alluring scent and exquisite presentation, Arlequinade undoubtedly captured the imagination of readers, inviting them to partake in the intoxicating world of haute couture fragrance. It's a reminder of the enduring allure of Parisian glamour and the timeless appeal of a beautifully crafted scent.

Arlequinade's exquisite presentation was inspired directly by the whimsical character of Harlequin, the bottle itself was a work of art, designed by the visionary Julien Viard. Adorned with gilded triangles reminiscent of Harlequin's colorful costume, the bottle exuded a sense of playful elegance.

The crowning glory of the bottle was its Bakelite cap, fashioned in the shape of a tricorne hat, a nod to the iconic headwear associated with the commedia dell'arte character. This attention to detail extended to the silky tassel delicately tied around the neck, adding a touch of opulence to the overall presentation

In 1923, the presentation of Arlequinade underwent a transformation, elevating its already luxurious packaging to new heights. The prismatic bottle was now housed in a lavish gold-lined casket, further embellished with Venetian motifs printed in striking shades of gold and coral red. This addition not only enhanced the allure of the perfume but also underscored its association with the vibrant world of Venetian masquerade balls.

Arlequinade’s perfume bottle was as captivating as the fragrance it held, a striking embodiment of theatrical artistry and French craftsmanship. Directly inspired by the bold, geometric patterns of the harlequin costume designed by the Russian-born artist Marie Vasilyeff, the flask was an opulent display of gold decoration, its design echoing the diamond-shaped motifs traditionally associated with the commedia dell’arte. Vasilyeff, known for her avant-garde aesthetic and vibrant use of color, infused the harlequin costume with an air of modernity, and this influence translated seamlessly into the perfume’s bottle, transforming it into a miniature work of wearable art.

Beyond its visual allure, Arlequinade’s presentation was unmistakably luxurious, as highlighted in contemporary advertisements. A 1924 feature in The Gazette Times praised its artistic flask and charming packaging, emphasizing that such exquisite perfumes could only come from the ingenuity of the French. The bottle, adorned with intricate gold embellishments, was complemented by a striking red tassel—an elegant flourish that suggested movement and theatricality, much like the gestures of the harlequin himself. This sense of dynamic flair was further enhanced by the way light reflected off the gilded surface, giving the bottle a jewel-like presence on a dressing table.

Adding to the allure was its presentation box, a satin-lined case described as “novel” in advertisements of the time. The packaging was more than a mere container; it was a statement of exclusivity, a treasure chest enclosing a fragrance of mystery and intrigue. To own Arlequinade was to possess something extraordinary—a perfume not just for scent, but for spectacle. The price reflected this rarity, with its $25 cost in 1924 translating to an astonishing $459.06 in today’s currency. This places Arlequinade among the most indulgent luxuries of its time, a fragrance intended for those who appreciated both the artistry of perfume and the prestige of its presentation.

Rosine, ever the innovator, understood that perfume was more than an invisible adornment; it was an experience, an object of desire. Arlequinade’s golden flask, with its harlequin-inspired design and refined packaging, captured the essence of the fragrance within—piquant, playful, yet undeniably sophisticated. It was a true reflection of the era’s fascination with performance, elegance, and the enchanting world of Parisian haute parfumerie.

 

Fate of the Fragrances:

Picture yourself strolling through the streets of Paris in the early 20th century, where the air is imbued with a sense of whimsy and sophistication. Arlequinade captures the essence of this era, encapsulating the vivacious spirit of the Roaring Twenties with its elegant blend of fragrant elements.

At its heart lies a bouquet of delicate florals, where the intoxicating aroma of jasmine intertwines with the soft sweetness of rose petals, creating a scent that is both feminine and alluring. This floral symphony is accented by hints of citrus, adding a touch of brightness and freshness to the composition.

As the fragrance settles on the skin, subtle notes of powdery iris emerge, lending a soft and comforting quality to the overall aroma. Finally, a base of warm amber and sensual musk provides a seductive undertone, lingering on the senses long after the initial application.

Arlequinade is more than just a fragrance; it is a journey through time, evoking the glamour and charm of a bygone era. With its intricate blend of ingredients and timeless appeal, it continues to captivate the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts around the world, a true testament to the enduring legacy of its creator, Henri Alméras.

 Despite its eventual discontinuation in 1930, Arlequinade remained a cherished gem in the world of perfumery, its allure enduring through the years. Evidence of its continued presence in the market can be found in a volume of the Official Journal: Body of the Provisional Government of Mexico, dated 1929, where it was listed alongside other esteemed Rosine perfumes.

This esteemed collection included fragrances such as Ambre de Venise, Aladin, Avenue du Bois, and more, each encapsulating the timeless elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Rosine brand. Arlequinade stood out among these olfactory treasures, its enchanting blend of notes capturing the imagination of discerning perfume enthusiasts.

However, despite its popularity, Arlequinade met its final curtain call in 1930, marking the end of an era for this beloved fragrance. Remaining stock was liquidated at drastically reduced clearance prices, allowing enthusiasts one last opportunity to indulge in its captivating aroma before bidding it farewell.

Yet, even as it faded from the shelves, the legacy of Arlequinade endured, leaving an indelible mark on the world of perfumery. Its distinctive blend of spicy notes, powdery white flowers, and animalic base had captivated the hearts of many, ensuring its place in the annals of fragrance history.

Though no longer readily available, Arlequinade lives on in the memories of those who had the pleasure of experiencing its enchanting aroma, a testament to its enduring appeal and timeless allure.