Eau d'Hermès was created by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska in 1951. History tells us that the perfume division, Hermes Parfums, was set up in 1950, marketing the first Hermes perfume, the classic Eau d'Hermes. However, I found a 1946 ad and a 1949 advertisement for Holt Renfrew that offered L'Eau de Hermes, is this a precursor?
The discovery of advertisements from 1946 and 1949 for "L'Eau de Hermes" suggests that Hermès may have explored or introduced fragrances prior to the establishment of their dedicated perfume division and the official release of Eau d'Hermès. The advertisements from the 1940s could indicate the existence of a precursor to Eau d'Hermès. This might have been an earlier fragrance formulation or a different product altogether, marketed under a similar name to gauge consumer interest and market potential.
It is also possible that Hermès was experimenting with different marketing strategies and product names before finalizing the Eau d'Hermès we know today. This could involve testing different formulations or simply using the Hermès name to promote products related to their brand identity. The products advertised in 1946 and 1949 might have been limited editions or regional offerings, not widely documented or recognized as part of the official Hermès perfume lineup.
Further historical research and access to Hermès archives could provide more clarity on the exact nature of "L'Eau de Hermes" advertised in the 1940s. This might include examining old catalogs, marketing materials, and internal company records.
Fragrance Composition:
Edmond Roudnitska, a legendary figure in the world of perfumery, created Eau d'Hermès in 1951. His vision was to encapsulate the quintessence of Hermès' timeless elegance and luxury. This fragrance was conceived as a tribute to the refined sophistication that defined the Hermès brand. The creation of Eau d'Hermès was dedicated to Émile-Maurice Hermès, a pivotal figure in the company's history, who passed away in 1951. Émile-Maurice played a crucial role in transforming Hermès from a saddlery business into a global luxury brand.
Eau d'Hermès was designed for the elite – the rich and famous, including horse-riding royals, who frequented Hermès boutiques. These discerning customers visited Hermès not just for its perfumes but for a range of luxury items such as saddles, Limoges ashtrays, cigar cutters, silk scarves, and leather bags. Unlike mass-market perfumes, Eau d'Hermès was a symbol of exclusivity. It was rarely found in regular perfume stores or even in American department stores. This scarcity added to its allure and prestige. Even within Hermès' own boutiques, Eau d'Hermès was not always readily available. It was carried selectively, enhancing its mystique and ensuring that it remained a highly coveted item among the brand's elite clientele.
The inspiration for Eau d'Hermès came from the enchanting scent of a linen handkerchief, long-forgotten at the bottom of an old handbag sent to Hermès for repair. The challenge was to recreate the captivating blend of aged leather and the timeless aroma of lavender water.
Edmond Roudnitska described the fragrance as perfectly capturing "the inside of an Hermès bag where the scent of a perfume lingered... A note of fine leather wrapped in fresh trails of citrus fruit and seasoned with spices." This exquisite composition resulted in a fragrance that was often described as "a secret perfume reserved for an elite of connoisseurs."
Eau d'Hermès is classified as a refreshing citrus floral fragrance, suitable for both men and women. It belongs to the same fragrance family as classics like Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior, Ô de Lancôme, and Eau de Rochas. Eau d'Hermès opens with a bright, citrusy top note that seamlessly blends with the rich scent of raw leather, evoking the essence of new-mown hay. This unique combination is further enhanced by the verdant notes of fern extracts, the warmth of exotic hot and dry spices, and the delicate aroma of flowers from rare Indochinese reeds.
Although primarily marketed towards men, Eau d'Hermès also captivated women with its distinctive and alluring scent, making it a versatile and beloved fragrance across genders.
- Top notes: cinnamon, galbanum, herbal lavender, lemon, bergamot, burnet, petitgrain, sage, citron, cumin, cardamom, clary sage
- Middle notes: thyme, basil, rosemary, marjoram, jasmine, clove, coriander, Bourbon geranium bourbon leaf, floral notes, vanilla, tonka bean, labdanum
- Base notes: resins, cedar, flamed birch, civet, leather, oakmoss, vetiver, amber, sandalwood
Eau d'Hermès is a fragrance that evokes an exquisite journey through a sun-drenched Mediterranean landscape, where the vibrant citrus groves meet the rugged earthiness of ancient forests. Opening with a burst of invigorating freshness, it immediately transports the senses to a serene orchard blooming with lemon and bergamot, their zesty essence dancing in the air like golden sunlight.
As the fragrance unfurls, the herbaceous whispers of lavender and sage emerge, their aromatic embrace intertwining with the warmth of sun-kissed spices – cinnamon, cardamom, and cumin. This symphony of scents conjures images of bustling markets adorned with colorful spices, where each breath is a tantalizing journey through exotic lands.
In the heart of Eau d'Hermès lies a verdant oasis, where lush botanicals thrive amidst a tapestry of floral notes. Thyme, basil, and rosemary weave their aromatic spell, entwined with the delicate blooms of jasmine and clove. Here, the fragrance takes on a sensual allure, reminiscent of secret gardens bathed in moonlight, their intoxicating fragrance lingering in the night air.
As the day fades into dusk, Eau d'Hermès settles into a luxurious embrace of timeless sophistication. Cedarwood and oakmoss lend a grounding presence, their woody richness mingling with the supple softness of leather. Amber and sandalwood add a seductive depth, casting a lingering trail of warmth and allure.
Eau d'Hermès is not merely a fragrance; it is a journey of the senses, a celebration of life's most precious moments. With its timeless elegance and effortless sophistication, it invites you to revel in the beauty of the world around you, to embrace each moment with grace and refinement. For those who seek a scent that transcends time and space, Eau d'Hermès is the ultimate expression of luxury and allure.
Bottles:
Eau d'Hermès is presented in an iconic, deluxe packaging befitting its status as a timeless classic. Encased in a sturdy, squared-off heavy crystal bottle, its design exudes elegance and sophistication. The bottle is topped with a distinctive mushroom-domed stopper, adding a touch of whimsy to its timeless aesthetic.
Each bottle is adorned with a luxurious suede ribbon tied delicately around the neck, symbolizing the attention to detail and craftsmanship synonymous with the Hermès brand. As a mark of authenticity, three paper labels adorn the bottle: a large circular label on the front, proudly displaying the fragrance's name, while a smaller rectangular label towards the bottom bears the inscription "Eau d'Hermes Paris France." A third rectangular label on the back of the bottle provides essential details such as the fragrance's capacity.
The base of the bottle is meticulously molded with the inscription "Hermes - Paris - Made in France," reaffirming its heritage and origin. Many of these exquisite bottles were crafted in France by Pochet et du Courval, distinguished by the entwined "HP" symbol discreetly etched on the base.
With its iconic design and meticulous attention to detail, the presentation of Eau d'Hermès reflects the brand's commitment to luxury, quality, and timeless elegance, making it a coveted addition to any fragrance collection.
Eau d'Hermès is not only renowned for its exquisite fragrance but also for its impeccable presentation. Encased in a luxurious orange leather presentation box, the packaging exudes the sophistication and style synonymous with the Hermès brand.
The vibrant hue of the orange leather serves as a striking backdrop, capturing the essence of warmth and vibrancy that embodies the fragrance itself. The smooth, supple texture of the leather adds a tactile element to the presentation, inviting touch and interaction.
Within the box, the Eau d'Hermès bottle sits nestled securely, cradled in its plush surroundings. The contrast between the bold orange exterior and the crystal-clear bottle creates a visually stunning display, further enhancing the allure of the fragrance.
This meticulously crafted presentation box not only serves as a protective enclosure for the fragrance but also as a symbol of luxury and sophistication. From its vibrant exterior to its elegant interior, every detail has been carefully considered to ensure that the presentation of Eau d'Hermès is nothing short of extraordinary.
Edmond Roudnitska, the visionary perfumer behind Eau d'Hermès, eloquently expressed his admiration for the bottle design, remarking on its profound impact on his creative process. He recounted how the beauty of the bottle, presented to him by Jean Guerrand, stirred his emotions and ignited his inspiration. In the crystal-clear vessel, he found a reflection of the entire universe of Hermès – a harmonious blend of opulence and simplicity.
Roudnitska felt compelled to create an olfactory masterpiece that would mirror the purity and elegance of the bottle itself. The solid crystal, touched with the subtle roughness of emery, embodied the essence of craftsmanship and refinement that defined Hermès. The meticulously engraved labels, bearing the esteemed ex-libris of Emile Hermès, added a touch of heritage and prestige to the presentation.
The natural leather link, delicately tied around the neck of the bottle, served as a tactile reminder of the brand's dedication to quality and authenticity. With each element meticulously crafted to perfection, Roudnitska found himself inspired to conceive a fragrance that would resonate with the same timeless sophistication as its vessel.
Additionally, the paper labels adorned with the small Hermès carriage emblem further reinforced the fragrance's association with the prestigious and globally recognized house of Hermès. As a symbol of luxury and excellence, the carriage logo added a final touch of distinction to the presentation, affirming Eau d'Hermès as a true masterpiece of perfumery.
If you find yourself with a bottle of Eau d'Hermès missing its label and you're unsure of its size, you can use the following measurements as a guide:
- If the bottle is approximately 8 inches (20.3 cm) tall, it likely contains 26.3 ounces (750 milliliters).
- A bottle measuring around 7.75 inches (19.7 cm) tall is typically 16 ounces (480 milliliters) in volume.
- For a bottle standing at approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) tall, it's usually around 8 ounces (236 milliliters).
- If the bottle is roughly 5.5 inches (14 cm) tall, it typically holds 4 ounces (118 milliliters).
- A bottle standing at approximately 4.5 inches (11.4 cm) tall is usually 2 ounces (60 milliliters) in volume.
By comparing the height of your bottle to these measurements, you can estimate its size within a reasonable range.
Fate of the Fragrance:
During the period spanning from the 1950s to the 1970s, Eau d'Hermès was typically housed in the iconic heavy and chunky crystal flacons, which exuded an air of luxury and sophistication. These flacons, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, served as a fitting vessel for the esteemed fragrance.
In addition to the larger crystal flacons, smaller bottles of Eau d'Hermès from this era featured distinctive design elements. Instead of the glass stoppers found on the larger flacons, these smaller bottles were adorned with large black caps, adding a bold contrast to the crystal vessel. Despite their smaller size, these bottles retained the same aura of elegance and refinement as their larger counterparts.
Both the larger crystal flacons and the smaller bottles featured round paper labels, which served as a hallmark of authenticity and quality. These labels bore the distinguished emblem of Hermès, further enhancing the prestige of the fragrance. Whether housed in the grand crystal flacons or the smaller bottles with black caps, Eau d'Hermès remained a symbol of timeless luxury and sophistication throughout the 1950s to the 1970s.
Relaunch:
The reintroduction of Eau d'Hermès in 1987 marked a significant milestone in the history of the renowned luxury brand, coinciding with its 150th anniversary. Originally embraced as a favorite among both men and women upon its debut, the fragrance had garnered international acclaim for its timeless elegance and captivating scent profile.
However, the sudden disappearance of Eau d'Hermès from the market left many puzzled. Speculation swirled within Hermès circles, with some attributing its absence to the mysterious vanishing of the complex formula. It was rumored that the intricate recipe, meticulously crafted by the legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, existed solely within his remarkable mind. Roudnitska, known for his aversion to wearing perfumes despite his daily immersion in their creation, made a notable exception for Eau d'Hermès. This unique scent, which he affectionately referred to as "la belle eau," held a special place in his heart.
In a serendipitous turn of events, Jean-Louis Dumas-Hermès, the then-chairman of Hermès, uncovered Roudnitska's enduring attachment to Eau d'Hermès. Despite being in his 80s, Roudnitska continued to wear the fragrance he had crafted decades earlier. Moved by this discovery and recognizing the significance of Eau d'Hermès to the brand's legacy, Dumas-Hermès embarked on a mission to recreate the iconic formula.
The result of this endeavor was the birth of "Grande Eau d'Hermès" in 1987. This reimagined formulation paid homage to the original fragrance while infusing it with a renewed sense of vitality and allure. With its timeless appeal and unwavering commitment to excellence, Grande Eau d'Hermès captivated a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts, ensuring that the legacy of Eau d'Hermès would endure for years to come.
Scroll further to discover the limited edition crystal bottle from 1987. Additionally, Hermes expanded the availability of the Grand Eau d'Hermès fragrance by introducing non-limited edition bottles at more accessible price points. These bottles featured pewter-colored caps instead of the glass stoppers found in the limited edition versions. They also sported round paper labels, maintaining the iconic Hermes branding. Some of these bottles may still retain their Hermes 1987 anniversary ribbons elegantly tied around the neck, serving as a reminder of the fragrance's heritage. These non-limited edition bottles remained popular well into the 1990s, allowing a broader audience to experience the timeless allure of Eau d'Hermès.
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In 2001, Eau d'Hermès underwent a transformation with the introduction of new packaging. The fragrance was presented in bottles adorned with distinctive copper-colored caps, signaling a departure from the previous designs. Instead of traditional paper labels, the name of the fragrance was elegantly printed directly onto the bottle, adding a modern touch to its presentation. This packaging remained in use until approximately 2007.
Around the same time, in 2007, Eau d'Hermès underwent another evolution as it transitioned to bottles featuring clear caps, marking a subtle yet notable change in its appearance.
In 2010, the fragrance experienced yet another chapter in its storied history with a reformulation overseen by the esteemed perfumer Jean Claude Ellena. This update aimed to refine and enhance the fragrance, ensuring its continued relevance and appeal to modern sensibilities.
By 2014, Eau d'Hermès underwent another reformulation, distinguished by its packaging featuring a black cap and a rectangular orange paper label. This edition introduced subtle yet discernible changes to the fragrance, further enriching its character and ensuring its continued resonance with fragrance enthusiasts worldwide.
Eau d'Hermès, created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1951, was more than just a fragrance. It was a tribute to Émile-Maurice Hermès and a representation of the brand's timeless elegance and luxury. Its exclusivity and selective availability made it a coveted item among the elite, reinforcing Hermès' position as a purveyor of unparalleled luxury. This fragrance, with its sophisticated blend of notes, captured the essence of Hermès' heritage and catered to a distinguished clientele, ensuring its place in the pantheon of iconic luxury perfumes.
Limited Edition Flacons:
A remarkable piece of Hermès history lies in the special crystal bottle that graced the hands of guests at the inaugural April in Paris Ball in 1951. Crafted from exquisite Baccarat crystal, renowned for its unparalleled clarity and brilliance, this bottle epitomized luxury and sophistication.
Housed in the iconic orange Hermès packaging, this rare collectible remains a coveted treasure for enthusiasts and collectors alike. Its scarcity adds to its allure, with only a fortunate few possessing such a precious memento of Hermès' storied legacy.
Today, the special crystal bottle from the first April in Paris Ball serves as a tangible reminder of an era defined by elegance, glamour, and timeless beauty. Its rarity ensures its status as a prized artifact, cherished by those fortunate enough to own a piece of Hermès history.
The 1987 fragrance was offered in limited edition, each bottle individually numbered. The bottle itself, a hand-blown lead crystal flacon came in a signature Hermes orange box with a pearl yellow silken lining. To ensure handling with extra care, the new 16 oz flacon of precious Hermes perfume was hand delivered by special messenger to the lucky recipient, at no extra cost. A mini, refillable travel-sized bottle for your handbag for a mere $125 was also delivered, as an added bonus.
Prices for this new formulation was $550 for the 16 oz flacon, while the 4 oz flacon retailed for $275. A Baccarat bottle, numbered in a limited series, retailed for $700 for the 400ml. Exclusively at Hermes boutiques and selected retailers starting September 1987.
In 1990, a flacon of faceted crystal, mouth-blown and hand cut by the Cristalleries de Saint Louis was filled with 15 ounces of Eau d'Hermes. This flacon was created as a coronation gift for Emperor Akihito of Japan in November, 1990. A limited edition of 400 pieces was sold at Hermes Boutiques at a price of $5,000.
From 1993 onward, Eau d’Hermès was sold in heavy lead crystal limited edition bottles without the familiar round, paper logo. Hermes assigns a theme to each year and these special bottles were hand engraved with the annual theme. Each bottle's neck was tied with its goatskin leather ribbon dyed a different color each year.
- 1993 - The year of the Horse (blue ribbon)
- 1994 - The year of the Sun (yellow ribbon)
- 1995 - The Year of On the Road Again (sea-green ribbon)
- 1996 - The Year of Music (pink ribbon)
- 1997 - The Year of Africa (red ribbon)
- 1998 - The Year of the Tree (green ribbon)
- 1999 - The Year of the Stars & Mythology (purple ribbon)
- 2000 - First Steps into the New Millennium
- 2001 - Looking for the Beauty of the Earth (orange ribbon)
- 2002 - Year of the Hand
- 2003 – Year of the Mediterranean Sea (dark blue ribbon)
- 2004 – Year of Fantasy
- 2005 – Year of the River
- 2006 – Year of Paris
- 2007 – Year of Dance
- 2008 – Year of India
- 2009 – A Beautiful Escape (Travel)
- 2010 – Year of Storytelling
- 2011 – Year of the Contemporary Artisan
- 2012 – The Gift of Time
- 2013 – A Sporting Life
- 2014 – Year of Metamorphosis
Inside the signature orange Hermes presentation box was a card describing the theme of the year, the number “out of 500” and the name of the artisan who painstakingly completed the hand engraving. Each was limited to only 500 numbered bottles per year. They were sold exclusively at select Hermès stores and most likely sold out quickly.
A limited edition bottle for the theme "The Year of the Horse" from 1993 is engraved decoration of an equestrian on a prancing horse.
Engraving titled "la Courbette", inspired by the drawing of René Princereau, containing 120 ml of eau de toilette. Only 500 examples made.
The limited edition from "The Year of the Sun" of 1994 is engraved with the mythological Pegasus, ;e Cheval-Soleil, designed by Raymond Savignac. It has a yellow leather ribbon on the neck.
The theme of 1995 was the "Year of the Road" and engraved decoration of flags, ropes and ears of wheat, "the insignia based on the "Voiles de Lumiere" scarf, designed by Joaquim Metz to celebrate the Hermes Year of the Road." Its neck is trimmed with a sea-green leather tie."
In 1996, a 4 fl. oz., limited edition crystal bottle for the "Year of Music" theme, was engraved with a band of musicians occupying a horse carriage with a man standing in front cracking his whip into the shape of a music note, completed by a beautifully tied leather ribbon around the neck and a large sealed glass stopper. The original orange Hermes presentation box and outer sleeve.
In 1997, a limited edition known as “The Year of Africa," inspired by the beauty that is Africa. The bottle held 120ml and retailed for $920. It was engraved with the Elephant, illustration by Abel Alier Rech, a young Sudanese from Polataka, who was chosen to celebrate the year of Africa and is dressed with a red leather ribbon.
The theme for 1998 was the "Year of the Tree," the bottle is engraved with the little Hermes coach passing through a hole at the base of a massive Redwood tree.
For the millennium, the theme was "First Steps into the New Century." This bottle was engraved with a little boy tugging along a toy horse on wheels.
In 2001, the theme was "Discovering the beauty of the world," a 120ml limited edition hand-engraved crystal flacon was offered for $650 at Hermes boutiques and selected higher end shops. It is engraved with an image of the sun-carriage of Phaethon, the globe of the earth is sitting in the carriage. Only 500 examples were produced.
2003 was the "Year of the Mediterranean Sea" and the bottle features an engraving of a man looking at a seahorse pulling the little Hermes coach. This 120ml edition was only available in 300 bottles.
I have been waiting for decades for someone to do such a thorough, exhaustive deep dive into all the iterations and bottlings of Eau d'Hermes. Grace Hummel, you are a national treasure to all of us perfume obsessives. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
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