Hula-Lei Products

Hula-Lei Products of Honolulu, Hawaii.

Inspired by the challenge of converting the scents of Hawaiian island flowers into a tangible souvenir form that tourists could take back home with them, the industry got its starts shortly before World War II. Like many other island businesses, the manufacture of perfume was geared primarily to the visitor and export market.

Robert Wickliffe Miller, photographer, professional chemist and pioneer perfumer was first in the field with his Hula-Lei Products, which he established in 1935. Miller, born on March 4, 1900 in Springfield, Ohio, got started in perfume through his interest in photographic chemistry. As a Hollywood cameraman, he was passing through Hawaii in the mid 1930s on the way to China. He fell in love with the islands and decided to make his home there.

He decided that typical island perfumes would be marketable, and felt the scent of native island flowers would remind tourists of their vacation and make them want to come back again. At the time, sending flower leis to the Mainland was difficult, and creating a perfume seemed the next best thing. 

With the held of mainland perfume chemists, he devised formulas for reproducing the tropical essences of island flowers. His gimmick was that all these "island" aromas are made from vanilla beans from Tahiti, myrrh from Arabia, precious sandalwood from Mysore, India, jasmine from Egypt, rose from Czechoslovakia, castoreum from Canada, orange blossom from California, ambergris from the South Pacific, musk from Nepal, and even ylang ylang from the Philippines, but nothing from Hawaii.

In various combinations, these ingredients produce the simulated aromas of such exotic blossoms as white ginger, known as awapuhi, and pikake. They also combine into trademarked perfumes such as Coral, Sarong and Jade and Joss. It was the smell of the pikake flower that captured Miller's attention in 1935. His firm started with pikake but since had added a long list of unique perfumes. Distinctive names and packaging he said played an important role in public acceptance. 

In 1937, Hula-Lei perfumes were imprisoned in vials concealed in hand carved containers of polished native hardwoods (Koa, Monkey-pod, Milo, Tamarind) packed in South-Sea "tapa cloth" gift boxes. 

A 1941 newspaper article mentioned that the Federal Trade Commission announced that Honolulu and Los Angeles firms had agreed to cease representing certain perfumes as "made in Hawaii from Hawaiian flowers." The agreement was made by Ever-Dry Laboratories, Inc., also trading as Trans-Pacific Importers (TPI), its principal office in Los Angeles, and by Robert W. Miller, trading as Hula-Lei Products of Honolulu. The agreement affects perfumes called "Ginger, Sandalwood, Pikaki, Poni Moni and Plumeria."

Hula-Lei owner and president, Robert W. Miller said that no change whatever in his present method of doing business will be necessary because of the federal trade commission action. explained that the action was initiated several years prior and that his firm immediately began to comply with the rules of the commission completely as soon as the rules could be studied and understood. Miller said that all perfumes distributed by his firm, as mentioned above, have been made in Hawaii since November 11, 1939, of essential oils whose odors simulate those of the flowers where the name of the flowers is used. They are manufactured by Antoine Schnerr Co, Ltsd of 122 South Beretania Street, Honolulu.

Miller explained that this is the procedure of practically all perfume manufacturers all over the world, as the modern perfumes are concocted of many ingredients, some having as many as 76, and that although flower-like odors are achieved the derivatives may be oil, musk, ambergris, and certain coal tar products and essential oils. 

Miller also said that the development announced by the FTC release was concerning action begun several years prior against him personally under the commission's procedure and not against the company, and this announcement clears the record of the pending matter. He went on to say that "We would be happy to have the FTC or any of its representatives inspect out methods, labels and procedure at any time. We know that with the various technical points cleared we are proceeding entirely in accordance with the federal law and regulations. The principal issue was that of labeling, and not of the production of perfumes."

In 1946, Miller visited the exotic islands of Tahiti. Due to the second world war, he was the first non-resident to visit in five years. Miller first had to obtain permission from the governor of Tahiti to visit the islands and then obtain the governor's permission to leave. Miller brought back quantities of pearl shell, bamboo and other materials to be used in making packages for his perfumes.

In 1950, the Hula-Lei perfumes were offered in a new unique package. Although flowers were not used in the perfume manufacturing process, small bugs and blossoms were carefully enclosed in each container so that the purchaser may see the kind of flower for which the perfume is named. With tiny leis about each bottle and each bottle packages in genuine tapa cloth, the distinct Hawaiian product symbolized the growing trend toward new island industries. Also in 1950, it was reported that Hula-Lei offered jewelry made from "a cast stone" which would not break or chip when dropped. Clarence Neads was the designed of the jewelry and the trimmings for the perfume bottles.

In 1954, Miller operated the House of Coral and was planning to build his perfume factory in conjunction with the house of Coral as an added tourist attraction. However, a few months later tragedy struck.

Fire roared through the Hula-Lei Products plant in Kakaako, causing damages estimated at $40,000. Firemen and eight pieces of apparatus were used to fight the blaze, which broke out shortly before 10:45pm in the perfume factory at 985 Waimanu Street. Assistant Chief William K. Blaisdell said he believes a short circuit in an electric motor started the fire. Police kept a guard on the burned out one story building throughout the night. Five original Leeteg paintings saved by firemen were placed in salvage covers and left in te remains of the structure. Miller, first heard of his loss around 7 am the next morning. Police had tried to find him, but he was staying in the House of Coral in Kahaluu, Windward, Oahu, which he recently purchased.

Miller estimated the loss might go as high as $40,000, but added, "we were fairly well covered by insurance." Included in the fire loss, Miller said, were valuable records, machinery, a special stock of wood carvings, and a "lot of perfume which was going through a blending process." The Hula-Lei factory has been located on Waimanu Street since 1938. Miller said it probably would be several months before he could get back into perfume manufacturing. He intended putting up a new plant on Kahaluu on the Windward side of the Island. "My immediate concern is finding work for the five men who worked at Hula-Lei," he said," especially two of them who are handicapped. They've been with me 14 years." The actual fire loss was $20,000.

Miller's new factory, the trade called it a laboratory, was opened in 1956 at 47-431 Kamehameha Hwy at Kahaluu in windward Oahu . The fire lost him everything except his Leeteg paintings, treasured memories of his sojourn in Tahiti when he became a good friend of the late painter on velvet. The new factory employed 14 persons. His wife, Sumie, handled outside sales. His son John, at eight years old at the time, had already designed packages which Miller said were good enough to use commercially. The packaging was part of the operation. The boxes, labels and wrappings were manufactured at the factory.

By 1961, he had a plant near Kaneohe which turned out 36 different types of liquid and cream perfume that ranged in price from $1 to $45 a package. The Hula-Lei Products were exported to Australia and Canada, as well as the Mainland. 

Miller died on February 11, 1978 at the age of 77 in Hawaii. He was survived by his wife Margaret Miller and four sons and five daughters. 

The perfumes of Hula-Lei:

• 1937 - Pikake - the Hawaiian jasmine used extensively in the making of leis. Sometimes called the "wedding flower."
• 1938 - White Ginger Flower - the white and yellow ginger blossoms, found in the cool mountain valleys, a favorite fragrance.
• 1938 - Plumeria
• 1939 - Poni Moni
• 1939 - Hawaiian Bouquet
• 1939 - Sandalwood (a subtle blending of the South Seas and the mysterious Orient) - simulates Tropical Lei
• 1939 - Pualani (heavenly flower) - simulates Pikaki Lei
• 1940 - Ala Kapu (forbidden fragrance) - simulates Gardenia Lei
• 1939 - Kolohe (mischief) - simulates Jungle Bouquet
• 1939 - Ipo (sweetheart) - simulates Ginger Lei
• 1940 - Nani (admiration)
• 1940  - Hala (wicked) - simulates Carnation Lei
• 1956 - Coral - an exotic tropical blend with just a touch of spice.
• 1956 - Jade and Joss - this is Hula-Lei's Sandalwood, adding that Oriental touch, a bit of haunting mystery.
• 1956 - Sarong - a sweet and rather heady perfume, a lasting fragrance with a South Pacific character.
• 1956 - Frangipani - the trie name of Hawaii's plumeria flower. 
• 1960 - Surfboard (a presentation)
• 1960 - Hawaiian Lanai (a presentation)
• 1960 - Top Hat (a presentation)
• 1960 - Tikki
• 1960 - Hula Girl (a presentation)
• 1968 - Black Coral - made with sandalwood and spice
• 1968 - Volcano
• 1968 - Ku'u-Kane (my man) - a special cologne for men