Nuit de Noel by Caron c1922

Nuit de Noël by Caron: launched in 1922, created by Ernest Daltroff. Pronounced "NUWEE-DUH-NO-EL", the name means "Christmas Night" in French.

From Caron:

"In 1922, after the trauma of the first World War, Europe is seized by a frenzy of celebration and exotic escapism. As a testament to the crazy years, Caron launches Nuit de Noel. Nuit de Noel, whose name alone is evocative of a magical, fairytale evening, to this day continues to spawn a series of iconic limited editions. Pure design theatrically inspired by the roaring twenties, an opaque black glass bottle, encircled by an "urchin" style gold band conjures up all the mystery of a bewitching Christmas night. Accords: jasmine, Saxon moss and Amber."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Nuit de Noel is classified as a floral-woody-amber (oriental) fragrance for women. Oriental: full bodied combination of civet, sandalwood, musk, ambergris and other fragrances. Basically exotic.

• Top notes: jasmine, ylang-ylang and rose absolute
• Middle notes: violet leaves, lily of the valley, orris and tuberose
• Base notes: civet, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, vetiver and mousse de saxe 

Nuit de Noel has a 25% overdose of sandalwood in the base along with a leathery type molecule known as 6-isobutyl quinoline.

The Mousse de Saxe accord is comprised of geranium, licorice (created with anise), isobutyl quinoline (for the leather notes), iodine and vanillin (a synthesized vanilla).

I have had several vintage bottles of the parfum over the years and the perfume had a very dominant cedar note, which had an elegant rosy and carnation facet. Deep in the dry down, the incense, orris and oakmoss made their appearance.  I didn't get much of the tuberose or lily of the valley notes at the time I tested it, perhaps they were too damaged as my bottles were very old. I found it to be extremely long lasting, and had a powerful sillage.

Harper's Bazaar, 1954:

""Nuit de Noel." a crisp seasonable fragrance whose devotees know no season for its dry, rosy, smoky notes. The 2-ounce bottle, $45.* • "Le Muguet du Bonheur," its cheerful, shining character attested to by a tiny spray of lilies of the valley."

In his book, The Essence of Perfume by Roja Dove mentioned that " Guy Robert is believed to have said of it "that you could be sitting in a theatre with some of the world's most beautiful women sitting to your left, right, and in front of you, each wearing one of the world's finest perfume creations.... But, if a woman were to enter wearing Nuit de Noel, all the other women would become invisible."

From Caron:

"In 1922, Europe was caught in a whirlwind of celebrations and escapism. While living through the Roaring Twenties, Félicie suggested to Ernest that they make a creation around the sacred theme of Christmas Eve, a magical night, synonymous with joy, reflection and sharing. Ernest thus developed an extract boasting chypre, floral and woody aromas to create a rich and complex fragrance, composed with jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and precious woods.

Did you know?

When it was launched, La Nuit de Noël was a huge success in New York, and the fragrance was often floating through the jazz clubs and music halls of the age. Americans preferred to call it Christmas Eve.

 La Nuit de Noël is one of the first ever fragrances to overdose Saxony moss, up to 12% of the formula. Its leather, amber and floral notes blend with a highly opulent May Rose absolute from Grasse.

Around ROSE: May Rose Absolute | Egyptian Jasmine Absolute | Carnation | Lilac | Vanilla | Musk

Around SAXONY MOSS: Saxony Moss | Mysore Sandalwood Essence | Haitian Vetiver Essence | Oak Moss Absolute | Indonesian Patchouli Essence.

 Our ingredients lists are regularly updated. Before using a CARON product we invite you to carefully read the ingredients list printed on the packaging to be sure that this product is suitable for your personal use.

INGREDIENTS (COCTAB): ALCOHOL DENAT.. PARFUM. AQUA. CINNAMYL ALCOHOL. EUGENOL. HYDROXYCITRONELLAL. CITRONELLOL. LINALOOL. BENZYL ALCOHOL. BENZYL BENZOATE. LIMONENE. GERANIOL. COUMARIN. BENZYL SALICYLATE. BENZYL CINNAMATE. ANISE ALCOHOL. ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE. CINNAMAL. FARNESOL. CITRAL. ISOEUGENOL. 81% Vol."

Bottles:

The original black crystal flacon was designed by Felicie Bergaud (Felicie Vanpouille) and manufactured by Baccarat design # 569. The top of the bottle has a gold foil label with Nuit de Noel wrapped around it. The black glass stopper is in the shape of a button with little cut details and facets.

The bottle was also manufactured by Pochet et du Courval. You might find a bottle with the entwined HP symbol for Pochet or the little paper label for Baccarat - or in most cases - no marking at all other than some hand inscribed numbers. Prior to 1936, Baccarat did not systematically mark their bottles with their labels or acid stamps.

To open the classic Nuit de Noel black crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Caron in 1963:

"Heat neck only of bottle quickly with a match; twist off cap (do not pull)."

The perfume bottle was then packed in an elegant presentation case, covered with printed paper imitating shagreen. It is also possible to find the vintage powder box with the same shagreen print.

This bottle was available in the following sizes:

• 5/8 oz Miniature 
• 1/4 oz
• 1/2 oz
• 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall.
• 2 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall.

From Caron:

"Crafted in completely opaque black glass, La Nuit de Noël’s bottle evokes the enchanting mystery of Christmas Eve. The simple yet sophisticated bottle is accentuated with a golden band, similar to the headbands worn by women in 1922 in Roaring Twenties fashion. The case is designed on the model of the Japanese Inrô set. It is covered in jade green paper decorated with a shagreen motif and adorned with a braided pompom. The set is presented in a burgundy box in CARON colours."

Nuit de Noel was available in the following forms:

• Parfum (Extrait)
• Cologne Parfumee Aerosol Spray
• Parfum de Toilette Spray
• Eau de Cologne
• Eau de Toilette
• Eau de Parfum
• Lotion (a skin freshener)
• Face Powder
• Grand Luxe Toilet Soap 

The Pharmaceutical Era - Volume 58, 1924:

"N'Aimez Que Moi (love only me) is the next popular brand in the Caron lines, with Tabac Blond in close pursuit. Another big Caron success was introduced last Christmas. It is Nuit de Noel (Christmas Eve). This perfume comes in a black bottle, an original idea in the perfumery trade."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:

"Air-Conditioned Caron offers a new idea in perfume packaging. Three Caron perfumes "Nuit de Noel," Bellodgia" and "Tabac Blond," have been repackaged in white simulated sharkskin boxes. The boxes have been designed large enough so that an air space exists between the container and the perfume bottle which is said to take care of extreme climatic changes that may affect the contents of the bottle."

The Sportswoman, 1936:

"The spread of air conditioning is uncanny — it now appears in the white snake skin box with which Caron is newly presenting Bellodgia and Nuit de Noel. The box has a double cavity which protects the perfume from variations of temperature."

Soap, 1962:

"Grand Luxe toilet soap from Parfums Caron, Paris, with its "Nuit de Noel" (Christmas Night) fragrance. Packaged in Paris, the four ounce bar is boxed in a blue, shagreen paper. Retail price, $3.50 per cake."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Nuit de Noel is a rich complex scent with oriental undertones of jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, iris, tuberose, sandalwood and moss. During the 1990s, the romantic scent was increasingly hard to find in the United States, but was brought back in its original opaque black glass, with its simple gold band, in 1998, and was only available at the higher end shops such as Neiman Marcus and selected perfumeries.

During the 2000s, Caron started to house all their current fragrances in Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum concentrations in a modified version of their "Poivre" flacon, each fitted with goldtone caps. Nuit de Noel is still available today, apparently only in parfum as the Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilettes are no longer in production. However, bargains can be found on ebay and etsy for the vintage parfum, which for purists are holy grails of spice and oakmoss. You may be able to find some leftover bottles of the eau de toilette on discount perfume sites.

 
 

From Caron:

"CARON is celebrating the 100th anniversary of an iconic scent in 2022, La Nuit de Noël, and is relaunching this fragrance in its original packaging. Jean JACQUES, Caron’s in-House perfumer, has faithfully recreated the 1922 scent using an extract from CARON’s heritage. This set is limited to 100 pieces. The opaque black glass bottle is engraved with a number in fine gold.

On the floral side, exceptionally complex May rose absolute from Grasse blends with an Egyptian jasmine absolute. These two powerful ingredients are elevated by the spiced floral notes of carnation, powdery lilac and sensual vanilla and musk aromas. On the chypre side, the leathery, amber, floral note of Saxony moss marries with the woody aromas of Mysore sandalwood and Haitian vetiver. They are supported by Oak moss absolute and Indonesian patchouli essence.

In order to get as close as possible to the original version, Jean JACQUES has integrated several accords into the formula that were found in fragrances at the beginning of the 20th century, including the famous Saxony moss, overdosed at 12% in this perfume. An accord that is recognisable by its leathery, amber and floral notes that incorporate the most popular natural ingredients of the era: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, oak moss, patchouli, leather and vetiver."

Gallery of Limited Edition Bottles:

 Limited Edition "NUIT DE NOËL PILLOW"

This beautiful presentation has been available since 2000. Nestled inside a pillow shaped box of Limoges porcelain, is an opaque white crystal 28 ml bottle of Nuit de Noël extract, adorned with a gold label and dots, sealed with golden thread. This is a limited edition of only 1000 numbered pieces. It retails for 400 € and is available at www.parfumscaron.com

Limited Edition "LE MESSAGER D’EOLE"

This unusual presentation was dubbed Le Messager d'Eole. A pearlescent Limoges porcelain hot air balloon whose basket holds a clear crystal 28 ml bottle of Nuit de Noël extract, encircled with a gold thread. Limited edition of only 300 numbered pieces. It retailed for 1250 € and was only available at www.parfumscaron.com or at the Caron Boutique. This item is no longer produced which makes this a rare collectible.

Limited Edition "BOITE A MUSIQUE"

This beautiful presentation has been available since 2001. Artoria Limoges porcelain music box, with iridescent blown glass globe, as it plays the round gold metal platform rotates slowly to the music. Features 28 ml of parfum housed in a richly gilded crystal bottle. Limited edition of only 500 numbered pieces. This edition originally retailed for $600, now it is offered for 430 Euros at www.parfumscaron.com.

Limited Edition 1999:

Limited Edition 1999. Black crystal bottle, holds 28 ml of parfum. Presentation box lined with gold satin. Limited edition of only 600 numbered pieces.

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